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Old July 2nd, 2016, 08:57 PM   #645
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Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 1
New 2003 Accord 6/6 owner, stepping up from my EJ6 Civic. Sapphire Blue (little bit of swirling, but 13 year old paint, and the sheet metal is still perfect), black leather, it's basically exactly what I wanted. Bought at just shy of 130k, did the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, 5W20 Pennzoil Platinum, PureONE filter, OEM air and cabin filters, Denso plugs, and OEM MTF. Tossed some cheap fog lights on it, yellow HIDs for the fogs. Even set up the garage door opener. After my Civic with no AC, no power steering, and having to swap and supercharge to get any kind of power, the Accord 6/6 is a HUGE improvement. It has it's quirks, though.

First off, the CEL came on a little while ago, P2195. Borrowed a friend's reader, pulled code, reset code, didn't turn back on. Couple weeks later, same code popped up again. Had it pulled at Advance, they wouldn't reset it, but after a hard 2nd gear pull, it turned itself off. Alright, whatever. Week later, on again, same code. Said **** it, bought a new Bosch wideband, installed, CEL went off. Thought I had it fixed, and then it came back on today. Pulled code, and boom, P2195 again. Searched, and found7 sy272004's TSB link. Is there anything else I should look at before diving into trying to get the dealership to do the TSB work without charging me an arm and a leg? Freeze frame data:

Fuel Sys 1: OL
Fuel Sys 2: OL
Calc load (%): 56.1
ECT(*F): 80.6
STFT B1: 0.0
LTFT B1: 0.8
STFT B2: 0.0
LTFT B2: -3.9
MAP(inHg): 16.8
RPM: 1067
Speed: 0
Spark Adv: -1.0
IAT: 77*F
TPS(%): 18.8
Rel TPS(%): 9.4

This was right at first start of the day, engine cool, and the CEL came on immediately after starting. I hadn't touched the gas pedal, so the TPS numbers confuse me, but I don't know if that's relevant at all. So, anything else seem out of line, or should I go ahead and call the zone office and start the TSB repair process?

Next question, my windows are kind of...derpy. The driver window has been working without problems until today, when it would roll itself back down after I told it to roll up. It did it a few times, then it rolled up and stayed up. The passenger window, however, goes pants-on-head-retarded sometimes. It seems more common when it rains. I'll press the button, and it won't move. Passenger presses their button, still doesn't move. After sometimes 2 seconds, never longer than a minute, you can hear a relay clicking noise, and then the window works just fine, until it decides to act up again. I don't even know where to start in trying to figure that out. Anyone had anything similar, or can anyone point me in a direction to start? I'm comfortable with a voltmeter, and with the cluster that is power door relays (converted my old Civic to power windows without using an OEM harness), I just don't even know where step 1 would be with this car.

Third and finally, after I fix the actual problems, I want to do a little bit of aftermarket without drawing too much unwanted attention from cops or thieves. I'm looking at Llumar window tint (AIR 90 windshield, Ceramic 40% rear, 70% front), Tein Street Advance suspension, and either XLR8 or RV6 long tube J pipe. Smart? Dumb? Since I'll be leaving the pre-cats alone, I won't run into any issues running a long tube without that cat, will I? Or would I be better served keeping the stock J pipe, and getting pre-cat deletes? I've always thought Tein was good hardware, but is the price tag a "too good to be true" thing, or am I over-analyzing?

With my Civic, I knew everything I needed to just from working on it for so long, but the Accord is a new world for me, and I'm liking it so far. If I should be making my own thread, just...poke me with a stick or something, and I'll un**** myself :P
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