DIY, Replacing Main Relay (AV6) - Page 4 - Honda Accord Forum : V6 Performance Accord Forums
Ribbon Banner

Go Back   Honda Accord Forum : V6 Performance Accord Forums > CAR SPECIFIC DISCUSSION > 6TH GENERATION HONDA ACCORD (1998-2002) > 6G HONDA ACCORD FAQ
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Mark Forums Read
V6Performance.net is the premier Honda Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old October 13th, 2009, 10:55 PM   #91
Registered User
 
98exaccord's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 371
ok guys I got a major problem, my car wont start!! Ive replaced the Main Relay and it still wont start. When I turn the key to the "on" position it sometimes does not cycle the system checks before I proceed to cranking. Sometimes the car will fire and sometimes it will not fire. When the car performs the system checks, it still does not fire. When the car does fire it runs perfectly smooth with no troubles. I can jiggle and get the system checks to activate or de-activate, does this mean it could be the ignition switch not letting it fire?
98exaccord is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old October 25th, 2009, 05:33 AM   #92
Registered User
 
crestiksa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 8
DIY Replacing Main Relay AV6

I see that you have the 2ZZ...is this the same location on the 1ZZ, since its just before the cat?

On a similar note, does anyone have a DIY/walkthru to change the other O2 sensors? A DIY on that would be just as beneficial as this one, if its doable for any regular joe.
__________________
Умный дом поставка оборудования. <u>Умный дом монтаж систем</u>.
crestiksa is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old December 22nd, 2009, 12:33 PM   #93
Registered User
 
Street Racer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 21
My 99 Accord V6 has been stalling intermittently while driving, and after the car sat in the driveway for 2 weeks it wouldn't start at all. I changed the main relay and it started right up.

Thanks for the clear instructions, it made locating and replacing the main relay a lot easier
Street Racer is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old December 28th, 2009, 09:33 AM   #94
Something Something Darkside
 
Doom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Miami
Posts: 4,498
Send a message via AIM to Doom
My car wouldn't start and after trying to jump start it, the battery died. Battery tested fine. I changed the nut and bolt that connects the wiring to the positive terminal as it was rusted (took me an hour to get it off) so the electricity came back. Still wouldn't start. I'm starting to think main relay.

For the last couple of years if the car ran for like an hour or so straight in traffic I'd have restarting issues. In other words, get home from work with heavy traffic, 5 mins later decide to leave, car won't start for like 20 mins until it "cooled down". After 20 mins it would start if nothing. I've read that the main relay gets hot and this could happen. Now with the car not starting up, another symptom, it kind of heightens my hunch. This is a common problem for Accords and Civics but I wanted you're guys take on it. Thanks
__________________
V6P Senior Moderator
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Doom is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old December 28th, 2009, 11:56 PM   #95
Registered User
 
Street Racer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doom View Post
My car wouldn't start and after trying to jump start it, the battery died. Battery tested fine. I changed the nut and bolt that connects the wiring to the positive terminal as it was rusted (took me an hour to get it off) so the electricity came back. Still wouldn't start. I'm starting to think main relay.

For the last couple of years if the car ran for like an hour or so straight in traffic I'd have restarting issues. In other words, get home from work with heavy traffic, 5 mins later decide to leave, car won't start for like 20 mins until it "cooled down". After 20 mins it would start if nothing. I've read that the main relay gets hot and this could happen. Now with the car not starting up, another symptom, it kind of heightens my hunch. This is a common problem for Accords and Civics but I wanted you're guys take on it. Thanks
Sounds like the symptoms of a failing/failed main relay to me.

And if that's not the problem, I would say that since the main relay is a known common problem, and your car is 10 years old, it should be replaced anyway before it becomes an issue.
Street Racer is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old January 8th, 2010, 02:17 PM   #96
Something Something Darkside
 
Doom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Miami
Posts: 4,498
Send a message via AIM to Doom
I didn't get the email so I didn't see this post. I did get the relay replaced. It started up very weak. The battery seemed it had to charge up as the car had a very rough idle and was shifting hard. I drove it around for a half hour and it steadily improved. I went to bed and by morning it drove fine.
Doom is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old February 4th, 2010, 06:09 AM   #97
Registered User
 
98exaccord's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 371
Quote:
Originally Posted by 98exaccord View Post
ok guys I got a major problem, my car wont start!! Ive replaced the Main Relay and it still wont start. When I turn the key to the "on" position it sometimes does not cycle the system checks before I proceed to cranking. Sometimes the car will fire and sometimes it will not fire. When the car performs the system checks, it still does not fire. When the car does fire it runs perfectly smooth with no troubles. I can jiggle and get the system checks to activate or de-activate, does this mean it could be the ignition switch not letting it fire?
Ok fellas I resolved the problem! It was a dead battery with good volts but no cold cranking amps and a defective electrical ignition switch. The electrical ignition switch is a Honda Recall but the part still wears out after time. I hope that this helps others.
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
98exaccord is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old June 10th, 2010, 09:26 PM   #98
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 1
so does this happen every summer or does it last for a while after you replace the relay? my 2000 av6 had that weak idle problem before also but changing out to a higher capacity battery fixed it right up. now it just won't start. removed the fuel line from fuel rails and there is no fuel. replacing main fuel pump relay vrm-0022 tomorrow. also somebody inquired why that fuel pump relay was in such a strange location. i'm sure it's there because of the immobilizer honda started putting into there cars in 1998. No chip in key no fuel
Mupstical is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old June 11th, 2010, 11:48 AM   #99
Something Something Darkside
 
Doom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Miami
Posts: 4,498
Send a message via AIM to Doom
When I changed my starter as will a new battery, the starts will be strong. But we're finding it's not so much electrical. We're finding that those who change the relay + starter + fuel pressure regulator make the problems disappear. Just not that many have done that. I don't know about your idea because I'm not familiar with that.
Doom is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old June 12th, 2010, 09:27 AM   #100
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Czech Republic / Europe
Posts: 170
It is better to resolder the joints in the old relay than to replace it, a new relay will suffer from the same crap soldering I guess and the problem will reappear, while a properly resoldered will hold forever.

The metal bracket it sits on can be removed from the car with the relay on it btw, much easier than trying to remove the relay from the bracket in the tight space.
nutnut is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old September 11th, 2010, 09:26 PM   #101
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 27
Worked perfect, thanks!
s2ktonv is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old September 17th, 2010, 02:03 PM   #102
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 6
2003 Honda Accord MFR location

Quote:
Originally Posted by jgold47 View Post
Please dont use your cars battery directly, thats a hell of a close space to accidentally touch the wires on, especially without a fuse. Use a 9v battery and alligator clips, that should be enough to throw the relays.
I see all these ads for the MFR, but I can not find it anywhere....please help. All everyone tells me is it is under the dash of the drivers side...but where?
KCW Honda is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old September 17th, 2010, 02:23 PM   #103
Registered User
 
Street Racer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by KCW Honda View Post
I see all these ads for the MFR, but I can not find it anywhere....please help. All everyone tells me is it is under the dash of the drivers side...but where?
There's a picture of the main relay in the very first post of this thread.

DIY, Replacing Main Relay (AV6)
Street Racer is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old September 18th, 2010, 07:39 AM   #104
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grokr74 View Post
I started having a stall problem on my 98 accord,which has 136,000 miles about a month ago.
I was at a stop light and when the light turned green and I hit the gas the engine stalled. It started up again.

Over the weekend I started up the car and after about 5 minutes of just sitting in idle waiting for someone the engine stalled. I could not get it to start up again until I came back fifteen minutes later.

Could this be related to the main relay?

I wanted to test the main relay before replacing it since it seems easy. The contacts on mine are numbered like the photo.

1 3 5 7

2 X 6 8

Where X means no contact.

What is the correct mapping to the picture's numbering in the test instructions?


Thanks

Where is this relay at? I went to Mitchell1 eautorepair.com site and the schematics dont even have this listed. There is a PGM-FI #1 and #2 relay, but that is it and they are on the fuse box (left foot kick panel)....help.
KCW Honda is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old September 18th, 2010, 09:27 AM   #105
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grokr74 View Post
I started having a stall problem on my 98 accord,which has 136,000 miles about a month ago.
I was at a stop light and when the light turned green and I hit the gas the engine stalled. It started up again.

Over the weekend I started up the car and after about 5 minutes of just sitting in idle waiting for someone the engine stalled. I could not get it to start up again until I came back fifteen minutes later.

Could this be related to the main relay?

I wanted to test the main relay before replacing it since it seems easy. The contacts on mine are numbered like the photo.

1 3 5 7

2 X 6 8

Where X means no contact.

What is the correct mapping to the picture's numbering in the test instructions?


Thanks

Where is this relay at? I went to Mitchell1 eautorepair.com site and the schematics dont even have this listed. There is a PGM-FI #1 and #2 relay, but that is it and they are on the fuse box (left foot kick panel)....help.
KCW Honda is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old September 18th, 2010, 09:30 AM   #106
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 6
Where can I find this on a 2003 Honda Accord LX 4 cyl?
KCW Honda is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old September 18th, 2010, 11:30 AM   #107
Registered User
 
Street Racer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by KCW Honda View Post
Where can I find this on a 2003 Honda Accord LX 4 cyl?
Go to hondaautomotiveparts.com, select your car, and for the system pick "Control Unit/Cabin". Should give you an idea where it is and what it looks like.
Street Racer is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old September 22nd, 2010, 08:29 AM   #108
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 11
I had this problem on my 91 Accord. Never knew that this also happens on the 6th gen. Good to know. BTW, my current ride is a 2002 Accord 4 cyl.
91cb7 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old April 9th, 2011, 12:07 AM   #109
Registered User
 
Billi Blanco's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Killa City, Missouri
Posts: 29
Main Relay issue

I am a nooby to this so bear with me. My 01 Accord has been having trouble starting for the past year. Took it to AutoWerks and they got me for $1200 to do a water pump and timing belt change, as well as some sensor they claim is located behind all that. Well, it stopped for awhile but my CEL stayed on and TCS also. Which, btw, only came on when my gas tank was at a certain level. The car would sputter and then came the TCS light. So recently, it hasn't been starting in the morning. Won't do jack until later in the day, and then it'll start. Last weekend I changed my fuel pump. That was saturday, ran all weekend, and monday morning told me to **** off and walk to work. Yesterday I replaced my o2 sensors and the car ran like a beast. This morning, once again, laughed in my face by not starting. Still, the CEL persists. Went to Oreilly's today cuz I didn't want to wait, and they're the only place to have it in stock, and picked up a new $52 Main Relay based on everyone here leaning towards it being the cause. Had soccer practice, yes the car started, so I have yet to install it. As soon as I do, it will be known!
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Billi Blanco is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old August 7th, 2011, 12:43 AM   #110
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 39
Just wanted to give all the contributors to this thread a thank you. I was having the same problems most mentioned... My mechanic was going through all these ideas and trying to test this and that. I finally just ordered the part and told him to install it! yahtzee!

thanks again.
shawndoh is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old September 14th, 2011, 02:05 PM   #111
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 16
thanks for this thread just replace my main relay today (car keeps stalling for the past weeks)I'm just wonderin if you guys used not OEM main relay?i got mine at pepboys. I wanna know what's the difference.
deejay9165 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old January 30th, 2012, 04:24 PM   #112
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1
EFI Main Relay failure symptoms are...

Car won't start when hot outside
Car won't start after parked for just a minute.
Car starts but quickly dies as the rpm shoots to 1300 rpm. A second cranking attempt will crank but no signs of catching or any strong rpm movements.
Once started the car won't stall. After the car runs for a couple minutes, the symptoms return after shutting off the engine.
Windows have been rolled up on a hot day when problem occurred.
The heater was on before turning the car off.
Tapping your fingers or keys on the main relay will start the car.
No (humming) sound from the fuel pump the moment the ignition switches ON.
No click sound after the ignition key turns on or
No click sound two seconds after the ignition turns on.
Check engine light comes on (rare cases) or stays on longer than usual and no sparks (electronic timing only.)
10-15 of waiting and the car pushed to the shade, it will usually start.
beaver619 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply


Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Honda Accord Forum : V6 Performance Accord Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On