Crankshaft Pulley Bolt Advice (Sticky?) - Honda Accord Forum : V6 Performance Accord Forums
Ribbon Banner

Go Back   Honda Accord Forum : V6 Performance Accord Forums > CAR SPECIFIC DISCUSSION > 6TH GENERATION HONDA ACCORD (1998-2002) > 6G HONDA ACCORD TECHNICAL DISCUSSION
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Mark Forums Read
V6Performance.net is the premier Honda Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old September 14th, 2005, 02:49 PM   #1
Addicted to the "H"
 
H0ndaJunkie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 307
Send a message via AIM to H0ndaJunkie
Crankshaft Pulley Bolt Advice (Sticky?)

The Crankshaft pulley bolt is something that most people who are into mechanics have been forced to deal with at some point in time. It seems like some people have had an easy time getting it loose (for some strange reason), and others have not been so lucky. I have struggled with a Crankshaft pulley bolt on several occasions now, and have had a slightly different experience each time. What is common though, is that the pulley bolt is incredibly tight!

For most Hondas the torque spec on the bolt itself is around 190 foot pounds. The problem is that after the bolt has been on there for a while, it gets even tighter, thanks to the rotation of the Crankshaft. So tight in fact, that it takes either a whole lot of leverage (and some strong tools) or some ingenuity to get it off. You can go to any one of the popular Honda forums to find people asking about this, and telling horror stories etc, but there is certainly not any one way to do it that works every time for everyone. I've read a lot of responses on forums about this problem, and I've experienced it myself several times, so I thought I'd assemble the information for others who are looking for help.

A note on reverse threading:
Myself and other people like me have asked if the Crankshaft pulley Bolt might be reverse threaded. In my experience on a 97 Accord, a 92 Prelude and an 02 Accord V6, the bolt has not been reverse threaded. Having said that, you should always check in a Haynes manual, or a factory service manual, to be sure for your particular model..

Here are some of the ways that other people have told me about, or that I tried personally (this applies to Hondas only):

Number 1. The "Blip" method.
This is by far the scariest idea I have ever heard, and it is definitely something that I would never try......not in a million years. The general idea is that you get a long breaker bar, with the appropriate size socket on the end, place the socket on the pulley bolt, and wedge the other end of the bar on the ground. The bar should be facing towards the front of the car, regardless of whether the car is a 4cyl or a V6. Then, you disable the ignition, preferably by pulling the fuse for the fuel injectors. After you're satisfied that you've disabled the fuel system, jump in the car, place your key in the ignition and blip the engine (try to turn the engine over). The idea is that the force of the starter motor rotating the crank pulley will be enough to break the bolt loose.

This whole idea scares the crap out of me, and sounds like a recipe for disaster. In my opinion, if something goes wrong, and you start spinning that breaker bar around at high speed, something is going to break.

Number 2. The impact wrench method.
Everyone says "get a good impact wrench, that'll get it off!". I have a good impact wrench. It's an Aircat 1/2" drive, that puts out 1000 foot pounds of torque in reverse. Did it work to loosen the bolts on any of the three cars I have tried it on? Hell no, it didn't!. I've heard about people taking their car to a service garage to see if they could loosen the bolt, and they couldn't do it with their impact wrenches either.

On the other hand, some people have professed success with this method, so if you have the tool, give it a try........it should be your first point of call; then if it doesn't work (like it probably won't), you can try some of the other methods. I've tried to soak the bolt with PB Blaster a few times, just in case it actually helps, but it never does. It stands to reason really, because it's not like you can get the lube on the threads itself, so it doesn't help a bit.

Number 3. The 5 foot steel pipe method.
This method has worked nicely on two of the three cars I have tried it on. It worked on both 4cyl cars, but not the V6. For this, you need a piece of steel pipe around 5 feet in length, a couple of 10" long 1/2"dr extension bars, a way to stop your crank pulley from turning, and a strong breaker bar or long ratchet. I've used my friends 20" Mac ratchet for this, because it's very strong. First, you need to stop the pulley from turning. I use a Honda Crankshaft Pulley Tool that I bought from Amazon.com It has hexagonal faces that fit inside the face of the pulley and holds it still, while giving you access to the head of the bolt. If you don't have this tool, you could try using a chain wrench, but that might crew up your pulley, so that's up to you.

Use the extension bars to bring your ratchet out from under the wheel well, otherwise, you won't be able to get your pipe on there. Some people place something like a jack stand or a stool under the head of the ratchet to help support it, but I've never found a need for this. Attach your ratchet to the end of the extension bar, slide your steel pipe over the end and all the way to the head of the ratchet. Point the pipe in a direction that lets you pull down on it, so you can use your weight; you don't want to be pushing up on it.

Ok, now give it all you've got! lean on it. stand on it .....but be careful that it doesn't spring if you slip! Get ready for a loud noise, because if your ratchet or any of your tools break, it's guaranteed to be loud. Also, if the bolt actually breaks loose, it complains at you by emitting a loud cracking noise! If your breaker bar or ratchet breaks, I'm sorry; hopefully it's a Craftsman or something they will replace for free. If the bolt breaks loose, well done!! Don't think though, that just because you budged it with that big pipe that it's now able to be removed with a regular ratchet......you might need to use all that leverage a couple more times, before it will be loose enough to remove by hand.

Number 4. The floor jack method.
Sometimes the steel pipe just doesn't give you the leverage that you need. Maybe the extension bars are absorbing too much of that torque you're generating, or maybe you just keep breaking your ratchet? regardless of the reason that you haven't succeeded yet, there's one last thing to try before seeking outside assistance.

This is the only thing that worked for me, when I was installing my underdrive pulleys on my V6 Accord. First, secure your Crankshaft Pulley with the holding tool, then place your breaker bar or long ratchet with the socket attached directly to it, on the pulley bolt.....let it hang there. You should already have your car up on jack stands, so take your jack, and place it directly under the end of your ratchet/breaker bar. The handle on the ratchet/breaker bar, should be hanging straight down, so move the handle a little in the direction that the bolt needs to be turned, so that it's now a little bit of an angle. That part is completely obvious to anyone with an elementary school education, but if you don't do it, you'll just jack your car up! Move your jack under the tip of the handle, and bring the jack up to meet the handle, and put a little jack pressure on it to hold it there. Make sure that when you start to jack it up, there is no part of the car that will get in the way or get damaged in the process.

If you're lucky enough to have a huge aluminum racing jack like me, you have a long handle that will keep you safely out of the way of the action. If you have a regular jack, just make sure that you stand with part of the car between you and anything that might break and fly off. The nice thing about this method is that even if something breaks in the process the jack won't spring up and do any damage to the car, and you can't fall on your face like when the ratchet breaks in the steel pole method!. Pretty much the only thing that can happen here is: A. The bolt will break loose, B. The ratchet/breaker bar will snap, or C. You'll jack the car up and the bolt won't budge.

If you break your tools, don't blame me .....maybe you should have bought something stronger. If you jack your car up and the bolt doesn't move, you should know that if you have the majority of the weight of a 2500-3500lb car on that bolt, and it still isn't moving .......guess what.....it aint comin' off!! I've read nasty horror stories about using a torch to heat up the bolt, and ending up with melted rubber engine parts and warped metal engine parts. I guess that's your call, but I wouldn't try it.

Number 5. Time to get help.
That's it, I'm all out of ideas. If you've got this far and that bolt still won't come off, it's time to bite the bullet and take the car to a professional. Some shops will break the bolt loose for free if it comes off with ease, but if any serious work is involved, you can bet your ass they'll charge you. Even though you might have to pay them a little money to have them break the bolt loose, at least you can chukle a little knowing that they'll get it loose, even if they have have a tough time doing it. You can just relax in the lobby while someone else does all the work..

I hope this helps someone out!
__________________
2002 Accord V6 EX Coupe
"Any real, self respecting car geek, does all the mechanic work themselves" - me.

Information and pictures of my AV6:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
H0ndaJunkie is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old September 14th, 2005, 03:43 PM   #2
Are you threatening me?
 
SALVAGED V6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: MPLS
Posts: 70
Awesome, good write up!!, crank pulley bolt woes can be very frustrating and time consuming, Ive spent many an afternoon/ evening pissed off and cursing, eventually using one or a combination of the above mentioned methods,usually thru pure determination and perserverance its usually breaks loose. Im sure Ill be dong this again sometime in the future, good luck to all stumbling thru this aggravating process
SALVAGED V6 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old September 14th, 2005, 03:54 PM   #3
Chi
What me? Worry?
 
Chi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: 925 NorCali
Posts: 158
Agreed, thanks for the write up, the jack idea was new to me. When I was doing my TB and Crank Pulley I was dreading this step of the process. However the Breaker braced on the ground it blipped right off. Now being the dumbshyt I am I actually had it facing the wrong way first couple of times (read the rotation wrong). When I started my car up those times it bar simply spun and fell off without any body damage at all.
Chi is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old September 14th, 2005, 04:07 PM   #4
Addicted to the "H"
 
H0ndaJunkie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 307
Send a message via AIM to H0ndaJunkie
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chi
Agreed, thanks for the write up, the jack idea was new to me. When I was doing my TB and Crank Pulley I was dreading this step of the process. However the Breaker braced on the ground it blipped right off. Now being the dumbshyt I am I actually had it facing the wrong way first couple of times (read the rotation wrong). When I started my car up those times it bar simply spun and fell off without any body damage at all.
That's cool.......I guess that it does work for some people, huh?

Still scares the crap outta me.
__________________
2002 Accord V6 EX Coupe
"Any real, self respecting car geek, does all the mechanic work themselves" - me.

Information and pictures of my AV6:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
H0ndaJunkie is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old September 15th, 2005, 03:02 PM   #5
mrg
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1
Just went through this exact procedure last weekend. My first mistake however, not knowing just how tight the crank bolt would be , was to put a wrench on the cam bolt to hold everything still while I loosened the crank bolt. Well, how stupid! As I applied torque to crank, the belt jumped a tooth on the cam. No problem, I thought, I'm takin everything off, I'll realign it when before I put the new belt on. Well, I tried cheater bars on the ratchet, used the floor jack trick, only to lif the car off the stands and finally pulling down on an 8 foot pipe just like your example, only to break the ratchet. After spending half my Saturday, I put it all back together and of course, it wouldn't start because the cam timing was off. Had it towed to reputable garage (yea, AAA) and let them install it. Said they used an impact gun to break it loose. Live and learn!
mrg is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old September 15th, 2005, 04:09 PM   #6
Addicted to the "H"
 
H0ndaJunkie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 307
Send a message via AIM to H0ndaJunkie
I feel sorry for ya man!

Luckily most auto shops have powerful impact wrenches and the compressors to push them. Sometimes AAA is the only way, that's for sure!
__________________
2002 Accord V6 EX Coupe
"Any real, self respecting car geek, does all the mechanic work themselves" - me.

Information and pictures of my AV6:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
H0ndaJunkie is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old December 17th, 2006, 07:10 PM   #7
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 28
HondaJunkie.. Great write up.. I will be replacing my timing belt next summer (2007) on my 2001 Accord V6 and hopefully all goes well with the crank pulley bolt!!

Do you guys know what lubricant the Honda Shop manual is referring too when it indicates with in the step after you clean the pulley and pulley bolt and then the step to too reinstall the crank shaft pulley and pulley bolt, it indicates to lubricate specific areas on the bolt. Should I be using grease, ant seizing compound, high temp silicon grease, etc. It does not indicate the lubricant type..
Thanks
Guys
CB900F2K is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old January 7th, 2007, 02:26 AM   #8
V6P Groupbuy Approved
 
Richie V6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Around Chicago
Posts: 2,545
I've tried them all, only 1 and 3 worked for me. 3 is scarey as hell and sends you crashing towards the ground. 1 isnt so bad your starter can take it and i doubt you will snap the crank
Richie V6 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old January 7th, 2007, 07:48 AM   #9
Banned
 
kleptodathief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: T.O.
Posts: 4,655
Send a message via MSN to kleptodathief
hmm when i had my UR crank installed the guy had NO problems with a regular impact gun!unless they use a certain crank bolt remover tool from honda but i doubt that...i was charged 80$cdn labour and the guy did it in less then 30mins im sure...
kleptodathief is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old January 7th, 2007, 12:09 PM   #10
keepin' it OG
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 10,189
Send a message via AIM to Kiet
#1 works. but really should be done by someone who has either done it before, or knows what the hell they are doing. its not really that scary, its more like a large bang and presto, thats it. I've seen it done my car before. it definately helps the person working in that area so much by using less or their energy.
Kiet is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old January 22nd, 2007, 07:45 AM   #11
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 6
perfect! wish i found this before i struggled with mine so long just last week. i ended up putting a chain strap wrench on the pulley (i was worried id damage the grooves- but it fit in just right and left no marks). and using a 3/4" breaker bar.. didnt take much to get it off then.. but that may have been because of allll the other attempts i meade to get it off before that!
starionman is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old January 22nd, 2007, 08:01 AM   #12
Formerly VTEC-v6!
 
N54TT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Atlanta Georgia
Posts: 5,250
Been there done that, #1 FTW!
N54TT is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old January 22nd, 2007, 10:04 AM   #13
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,316
I used #3 to throw mine in myself... Yea, that thing is in prety dam hardcore... It takes hella force, then its easy... I Used a 2 foot pipe, and stopped the whole thing by replacing my aem power stearing pulley with the oem one, and throwing a wrech through it Snapped the bolt loose, put the new ones on, new belts, then snugged that thing as much as i could (i was jumping on the 2 foot pipe ) put my aem ps pulley back on, craked her over... and DAM was that one of the better mods ive ever done : ]

E
ericspda is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old August 1st, 2008, 02:17 PM   #14
The End.
 
IcyAccord's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,332
Send a message via AIM to IcyAccord
lol.. does anyone know what size the 7th gen K24 crank pulley bolt size is? I want to get the right socket before starting. Thanks guys.
IcyAccord is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old December 15th, 2009, 05:52 AM   #15
Weight Optimization
 
JFME's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Georgia
Posts: 26
H0ndaJunkie,
Thanks for the info. I used method #3: 20" pipe with 1/2" rachet and Honda (Powerbuilt 648796) tool to hold the pulley and 6' pipe with 1/2" breaker bar with extension and 19 mm impact socket to turn the bolt. I set the extension on a jack stand for leverage support.

I can't believe how much torque they put on this bolt, considering that the factory service manual calls for 181 ft-lb as tightening torque. It probably took more than 600 ft-lb to break mine loose. I started with the 6' pipe pointed towards the ceiling and ended with it almost to the ground before the bolt cracked loose. I broke a cheapo flimsy breaker bar on my first attempt, but was successful on my second attempt with better tools.

By the way, the 2001 Accord V6 crankshaft pulley turns clockwise and the bolt must be turned counter-clockwise to loosen it.
JFME is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply


Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Honda Accord Forum : V6 Performance Accord Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On