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Old February 11th, 2008, 12:19 PM   #1
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Idle Problem, please help diagnose

After doing some searching I think I've narrowed the problem down to either the IAC Valve or the EGR system. Here are the symptoms of my sister's problems:

2000 Accord V6
1. Engine starts fine and will idle normally.
2. Car drives fine and idles fine in stop and go traffic.
3. The moment the car is put in Park the car basically revs itself up and drops letting the idle fluctuate between 2000 (maybe 2500) rpm and dropping to where normal idle would be. The car will do this repeatedly until either turning off the car or putting the transmission in gear.
4. Lights will slightly dim when the idle sometimes drops below normal and nearly stalls.
5. Car has not stalled, but idle has been continuously rough.
6. CEL light is on, have not been able to go to Autozone with the car to run the code, since my sister lives out of town.

I'd like to diagnose the problem before she brings the car home this weekend so that I'd be able to order the required parts online and have them available to do the repair work. Has anyone else experienced these symptoms and fixed the problem with a new IAC valve? Any other suggestions? Thanks everyone in advance!

GT
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Old February 11th, 2008, 02:12 PM   #2
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Most likely you IAC valve is bad, get the code pulled, thats probaly the problem, also make sure your not low on coolant, i've seen this cause the same problem because the coolant runs through the IAC and the t/body.
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Old February 11th, 2008, 03:05 PM   #3
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Well, I let her know what I think it is and let her decide whether to order the part online and have it waiting and ready or to wait for me to pull the code. It'll be her decision whether to pay dealership prices or not. Thanks

GT
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Old February 12th, 2008, 11:18 AM   #4
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Clean your IAC. Look for the thread on how to do it. Its very very simple.
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Old February 12th, 2008, 02:24 PM   #5
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whats the iac??
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Old February 13th, 2008, 08:52 AM   #6
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i think it the idle air control
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Old February 13th, 2008, 09:48 AM   #7
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IAC is a valve, Its an Idle Air Control Valve. Cleaning it might help, but you probaly need a new one. Personally i wouldnt waste my time cleaning it, because it will either make no difference or the fix will be temporary.
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Old February 14th, 2008, 08:46 AM   #8
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If the IAC servo is burned because you had it like this for a long time then just buy a new one. I had the same problem 5years ago and never had any problem with my IAC ever since.

I just recently clean my throttle plate because it's sticking when engine is cold. There are some gunk or gas deposit that has become sticky around the throttle plate. You may clean that also when you change the IAC.
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Old February 14th, 2008, 01:43 PM   #9
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Where's the best source to get one? Majestic Honda?

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Old June 6th, 2008, 11:14 PM   #10
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I guess I'll be bumping this to get more answers. Okay, so this problem has been with me for a while now.. My idle is around 900 - 800, but sometimes it just fluctuates a little bit up and down (800 to 700). IF I rev it a little bit, the RPM drops down to around 200-300 and sounds like if it's going to stall. I'm guessing EGR or IAC, but I'm not sure.

Also my starts take a second or two to fully crank up the engine. Not sure what that's all about.

My lights dim and my fuel pump pulsates if I turn on my signals or roll down my windows or turning on my headlights. Alternator?
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Old June 7th, 2008, 01:47 AM   #11
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Cleaning the IAC is not a waste of time like someone mentioned above. The valve is usually not bad (as in the solenoid still works) but it's just not moving like it should be because there's too much gunk built up in it.

Steve, is this after your SC install? This same thing happened to me. Check your FPR. Do you have a gauge on it? It should be around 40psi when it's idling. If you manually ramp the throttle (from where the throttle cable is hooked to the TB) the fuel pressure should rise to about 50-60psi. It shouldn't be any more than 70psi at any point...especially if you're using the Comptech FPR.
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Old June 7th, 2008, 01:55 AM   #12
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My idle is around 39ish. It was up at around 41-42 and I got some CEL's of being too rich.

Wait.. which thing happened to you? I posted like 3 things lol.

Yes, these symptoms came after the install.
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Old June 7th, 2008, 02:37 AM   #13
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Well I had to clean my IAC valve...but that was before the SC.

After the SC I was running too lean at idle and I was stalling out. That's because my FPR was jacked and my fuel pressure was like 20psi at idle. After I upped that to 40psi I was running "rich"...but that's at higher RPMs because it was untuned. The tune is going to pull fuel on the top end so you don't flood the rails. Without the tune, you're fuel pressure is probably going to be too high on the top end...that's probably where you're getting misfires (from running rich).

As for the start up and blinker problems...have Autozone check your battery. They can tell you if the life on it is still good. If it is, they'll just recharge it for you. I would check your alternator as well. When you installed the SC did you remember to put the little ground wire back on the alternator housing?

When you say that the fuel pump is pulsating...can you hear it doing the little "hummmm" thing? Mine only does that when I turn the key to the ON position right before I crank it. I usually leave it there for a second to make sure the fuel system is pressurized...though it should be without doing that.

Oh and since you have your SC now...I would get your cooling mods ASAP. And throw some Water Wetter in with your coolant. You'll notice a significant decrease in engine temp with just the Water Wetter alone. The cooling mods will just help keep the temp where it is. Fairly simple to install as well.
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Old June 7th, 2008, 03:52 PM   #14
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My battery is new. I'm trying to think about that little ground wire thing for the alternator.
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Old June 7th, 2008, 04:51 PM   #15
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i too would likea iac cleaning write up it possible
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Old June 7th, 2008, 07:44 PM   #16
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dont rule out that famous Main relay.
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Old June 7th, 2008, 07:54 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shenaniganz08 View Post
i too would likea iac cleaning write up it possible
There is one. I used it when I cleaned mine out.
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Old January 1st, 2009, 09:17 PM   #18
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I cant find this write-up anyone know where it is?
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Old January 6th, 2009, 02:46 AM   #19
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USE SEAFOAM. spray seafoam into the intake, and that solves most IAC and EGR check engines and idle issues. Super easy fix, cheap too. Its a honda
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Old January 6th, 2009, 07:57 PM   #20
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for this i would use a throttle body cleaner instead of seafoam
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Old April 20th, 2009, 06:40 PM   #21
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guys can anyone post a pic of the IAC (where is it), i think i have the same problem.

and what should I use to clean it

also i need to adjust the IDLE Screw, i read that i have to unplugged the IAC

the pics in the other posts, are no longer available

Last edited by bernardo; April 20th, 2009 at 07:15 PM..
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Old April 20th, 2009, 07:19 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by bernardo View Post
guys can anyone post a pic of the IAC (where is it), i think i have the same problem.

and what should I use to clean it

also i need to adjust the IDLE Screw, i read that i have to unplugged the IAC

the pics in the other posts, are no longer available
hold on tiger. don't go adjusting your idle screw unless you really have too.
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Old April 20th, 2009, 09:26 PM   #23
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since CEL light is on, is better you go to autozone and let them to scan and they will be let you know what happen with your sister car,and it is free, don't guessing if you doubt it what make your car like that.
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