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DIY: Improve AV6 Motor Mounts

88K views 160 replies 87 participants last post by  accord07white 
#1 · (Edited)
Hard launches with FWD vehicles using performance tires and upgraded power often stress both motor and transmission mounts which cause the drivetrain movements resulting in wheelhop, loss of traction and yes loss of power.

This is a solution to take your OEM motor/tranny mounts to the next level and it only cost $5 + your labor. The benefit of this design is additional strength despite it's flexibility, thanks to a polyurethane.

Keep in mind this method won't deliver the same results as solid polyurethane inserts or complete custom mounts, however it's definitely better than your stock units even if you have a brand new set.

The stock mounts have gaps which allow the center of the mount to move up and down excessively, so by using polyurethane you can fill those gaps to restore worn out mounts, reduce unwanted motor assembly movement and deliver more power to the ground.



Premixed polyurethane can be purchased at Menards or Home Depot for $5 a tube (I chose Menards due to available black color). This sealant designed for different purpose of course :D, however it works with metal and rubber, so that's all we need. In addition, it withstands any weather condition and high temperature. And 1 tube is enough to fill 2 tranny and 3 motor mounts (front, side, rear).




All engine/tranny mounts should be removed prior to use the polyurethane and if unable you can lift the engine and fill them up that way (not much convenient but it works). This source is not a liquid (more like tooth paste) so no duct tape necessary to cover the other end, just use a cardboard underneath when you fill them up. Place all mounts outside and let them sit on the sun for 8 hours or so each day to harden the solution faster. You can start using mounts after 24-30 hours.

Enjoy!
 
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#30 ·
abram2001 said:
definatly clever idea, but why am I under the impression when you do this mod, it will transfer engine vibration into the cabin rather than be absorbed by the mounts?

That would be true if we had HASPORT solid polyurethane mounts with maybe minimal cabin vibration from Energey Suspension inserts. With this addition however, there is no vibration at all since they flexible but strong and plant the car well to the ground with actually observed better ride on Tein SS coilovers comparing when I ran on stock mounts. I love it :naughty:
 
#35 ·
While on the topic of DIY polyurethane, how much are new engine mounts?

1: car tranny jerks engine (1-2 shift especially)
2: when starting off cold i.e. leaving my dorm or house and accelerating from a complete stop, a shift of weight is felt and a very subtle noise is heard.
3: my car is due for a timing belt/water pump shortly so will the labour literally be free/cheap for the mounts?
4: how do you find a broken motor mount? I mean are they easy to spot or can it not be physically damaged but still broken?
 
#36 · (Edited)
Engine/transmission excessive shaking/jerking is a sign of broken mounts.
All new mounts (5) are about $300-350.

To fill front/rear mounts, one has to lift the whole engine while replacing timing belt/water pump doesn't, thus the shop can charge extra for labor so ask first. Since this polyurethane is not a liquid but paste, it is more convenient to work with, however front/rear engine mounts are not easy to reach and require to remove top rubber piece first



BTW, old mounts still can be used and just fill the gaps.
 
#38 ·
No, I'm not selling complete mounts ;).
You need to buy them first and have any shop local to you to fill them up. My shop can do it if you want.

Hondaautomotiveparts list NEW mounts you need at the following price:
The side mount bolt was extra for me, so cratch that.

 
#39 ·
02AV6 said:
No, I'm not selling complete mounts ;).
You need to buy them first and have any shop local to you to fill them up. My shop can do it if you want.

QUOTE]

LOL thanks... I knew you weren't selling them, but you sounded like you had the engine hoist at your disposal lol. Too bad you aren't near Toronto:(. Btw, thanks for the prices, I figure if I remove the engine, might as well have all new mounts available at hand and worst case I sell them to someone for like 75% of what I paid or trade them for something lol.
 
#43 · (Edited)
hm so u filled the gap btween the rubber and the braket (or w/e it is called) for the front+rear mounts... is it possible to do it w/ the mounts still in engine bay? just wont drive it for 24hrs+


edit: found answer above

DeadDoc said:
Yes you do... they are what holds the engine in place.
still .. cant u fill the gaps while they "hold the engine" ?
 
#44 ·
KhanhCord said:
hm so u filled the gap btween the rubber and the braket (or w/e it is called) for the front+rear mounts... is it possible to do it w/ the mounts still in engine bay? just wont drive it for 24hrs+


edit: found answer above



still .. cant u fill the gaps while they "hold the engine" ?
well you can get an engine puller thing and strap the engine to it then pull them out and let the engine hang there, I guess.
 
#46 ·
02AV6 said:
No, I'm not selling complete mounts ;).
You need to buy them first and have any shop local to you to fill them up. My shop can do it if you want.

Hondaautomotiveparts list NEW mounts you need at the following price:
The side mount bolt was extra for me, so cratch that.

Would just like to add that TAS auto is selling the front engine mount for $70! :eek: sounds like a good deal.
 
#47 ·
love this thread, very helpful, however i have a question... i looked at mine today (before i checked this thread out) and my front engine mount... the line that goes in/under the mount seems to have fluid on it as if the mount is leaking... does anyone know if this could be a bad engine mount, or just the line is bad? also, if leaked enough is there fluid to replace sumwhere for this? and my car does get its shake on more now that i think about it, i think this could be the cause...

also, if i replaced one mount at a time, would i not have to take out the engine completely, just jack it up from underneath?
 
#48 ·
BigBizzle said:
love this thread, very helpful, however i have a question... i looked at mine today (before i checked this thread out) and my front engine mount... the line that goes in/under the mount seems to have fluid on it as if the mount is leaking... does anyone know if this could be a bad engine mount, or just the line is bad? also, if leaked enough is there fluid to replace sumwhere for this? and my car does get its shake on more now that i think about it, i think this could be the cause...

also, if i replaced one mount at a time, would i not have to take out the engine completely, just jack it up from underneath?
The line you are refering to is a vacuum line and as such the fluid is coming from the your busted front mount. I did it one at a time but you might be able to get away with more at a single time but I did one since I only had a jack and a piece of wood supporting the middle of the powertrain.
 
#49 ·


that 2nd mount from the left is the TRANNY mount? i noticed mine is kinda ripped a bit with some gaps... im not sure bout the other mounts tho... but think they r fine...i always get a clunk on that very first 1 to 2 upshift on a cold day when my engine is not warmed up... is that mounts related? or just pos tranny?
 
#50 ·
I'm curious about a few things:
First, if the front and rear mounts (which we know are liquid filled and is attached to a vacumm line) don't have any liquid in them and the vacumm line is not hooked up to it, will this affect the mounts' function? I bought mine off ebay and they did not have any liquid in them nor a connection for my vacumm line. My shop installer replaced my front and rear set with these and simply plugged the lines up and just left them unconnected and said that they're just "breathers". Anyone care to comment on this?

Secondly has anyone ever seen a square looking piece of weight near or around the mounts called the subframe weights? What are they for?
Here's a pic to show what I'm talking about.
:confused:
 
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