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DIY: Improve AV6 Motor Mounts

88K views 160 replies 87 participants last post by  accord07white 
#1 · (Edited)
Hard launches with FWD vehicles using performance tires and upgraded power often stress both motor and transmission mounts which cause the drivetrain movements resulting in wheelhop, loss of traction and yes loss of power.

This is a solution to take your OEM motor/tranny mounts to the next level and it only cost $5 + your labor. The benefit of this design is additional strength despite it's flexibility, thanks to a polyurethane.

Keep in mind this method won't deliver the same results as solid polyurethane inserts or complete custom mounts, however it's definitely better than your stock units even if you have a brand new set.

The stock mounts have gaps which allow the center of the mount to move up and down excessively, so by using polyurethane you can fill those gaps to restore worn out mounts, reduce unwanted motor assembly movement and deliver more power to the ground.



Premixed polyurethane can be purchased at Menards or Home Depot for $5 a tube (I chose Menards due to available black color). This sealant designed for different purpose of course :D, however it works with metal and rubber, so that's all we need. In addition, it withstands any weather condition and high temperature. And 1 tube is enough to fill 2 tranny and 3 motor mounts (front, side, rear).




All engine/tranny mounts should be removed prior to use the polyurethane and if unable you can lift the engine and fill them up that way (not much convenient but it works). This source is not a liquid (more like tooth paste) so no duct tape necessary to cover the other end, just use a cardboard underneath when you fill them up. Place all mounts outside and let them sit on the sun for 8 hours or so each day to harden the solution faster. You can start using mounts after 24-30 hours.

Enjoy!
 
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#54 ·
can anyone here provide a thorough DIY w/pics hopefully for replacing the front and side motor mounts for a 99 TL? I assume they are in the same exact place as a 6G AV6. I am told I would only need to support the engine with a floor jack and piece of wood(not lift it, just keep it where it should be) while I replace the mounts.
 
#55 ·
I just changed my side mount last week and I didnt even support it with a jack and i was able to change it... but for the front I would think you need the support because it's holding more weight there.... But yeah i have the haynes manual and it says just support it with a floor jack and a piece of wood... you won't need a lift for it

sbuswell said:
can anyone here provide a thorough DIY w/pics hopefully for replacing the front and side motor mounts for a 99 TL? I assume they are in the same exact place as a 6G AV6. I am told I would only need to support the engine with a floor jack and piece of wood(not lift it, just keep it where it should be) while I replace the mounts.
 
#56 ·
yesterday mouring i put that polyurethane sealant on all my motor mounts(one of the tranny mount was cracked slightly though). let them dry for at least 24 hrs. and finally drove. it is a big improvement over stock mounts. my tranny shifts so smooth, the engine is
more planted. even though this thread is old i like to thank 02AV6 agian for this DIY!!!!
 
#57 ·
Glad you like the upgrade :up2:
 
#58 ·
I bought my new mounts, and am going to do this. I have a question about the transmission mount that's second from the left, though. In the before and after pictures, it's facing one way, then the other way. Do I just fill the whole thing, or are there any parts I'm supposed to leave open for the transmission to be stuck into? I can't tell from the view of the "after" picture because the mount is turned the opposite way.
 
#59 ·
Kuya Master said:
I bought my new mounts, and am going to do this. I have a question about the transmission mount that's second from the left, though. In the before and after pictures, it's facing one way, then the other way. Do I just fill the whole thing, or are there any parts I'm supposed to leave open for the transmission to be stuck into? I can't tell from the view of the "after" picture because the mount is turned the opposite way.
You fill the whole belly of it.
 
#98 ·
I'm curious about a few things:
First, if the front and rear mounts (which we know are liquid filled and is attached to a vacumm line) don't have any liquid in them and the vacumm line is not hooked up to it, will this affect the mounts' function? I bought mine off ebay and they did not have any liquid in them nor a connection for my vacumm line. My shop installer replaced my front and rear set with these and simply plugged the lines up and just left them unconnected and said that they're just "breathers". Anyone care to comment on this?

Secondly has anyone ever seen a square looking piece of weight near or around the mounts called the subframe weights? What are they for?
Here's a pic to show what I'm talking about.
:confused:
Did anyone ever answer this ?.
 
#64 · (Edited)
Joepro said:
I did this to my broken mount on the passenger side about a week ago. I used the same poly as pictured. Is this stuff supposed to get rock hard or just rubbery? Its been filled for over a week and still is rubbery. thanks.
probably real hard rubber type feel. you probably shouldn't use this stuff on a broken mounts as a subsitute for a unbroken mounts.
 
#68 ·
ill be honest and as im reading this thread im curious to see how mine are. i just rolled over 130k on my 98 and im going to guess mine are shot. however, i have a wife and a daughter and im the only income into the house right now (wife is preg again) so i cant really afford the 400 for new mounts. so i figure some weekend when it gets a little warmer i will do this upgrade. if mine are broken like i suspect they may not be as safe as new mounts with poly - however i really doubt my car will blow up and shoot the engine down into the pavement if there are issues. after all...i have 130k and if they are already broken..obviously it wasnt really a problem before...the poly would just do it good till i swap engines and when i go on my deployment... ;)
 
#71 ·
I purchased NEW OEM mounts and filled them with polyurethane.
This is the best option while NOT experiencing any cabin vibrations.
Getting torque damper might get some vibration however very minimal (to me) while delivering excellent traction as a complete combination.


Here is also my OLD TD (torque damper)


And NEW (beefier) one :up2:.


And if someone want to really feel vibration, just try solid mounts.
 
#73 ·
02AV6 said:
I purchased NEW OEM mounts and filled them with polyurethane.
This is the best option while NOT experiencing any cabin vibrations.
Getting torque damper might get some vibration however very minimal (to me) while delivering excellent traction as a complete combination.
Any reason why you replaced your DIY mounts with OEM? did you experience some cabin vibrations? I was going to do the same thing you did since I really need my mounts replaced but if there's some cons to it I'll rather pay for the OEM ones.
 
#74 ·
I'd really like to know this as well, as i'm going to replace my front mount with an oem mount with the vacum line but am hesitant because you know say you replaced your diy with oem??Do you mean you filled the oem mount with the sealant and not the proper fluid?Anyone? :confused:
 
#75 ·
you guys need to re-read what serge typed, he said " I purchased new oem mounts *AND* filled them with polyurethane." Which means he didn't use his old mounts. So he didn't replace his diy with oem, he just bought new mounts and filled them with polyurethane and yes, he is still using his diy mounts. right serge? =)
 
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