There's been a couple of threads on it, some more useful then others, but I'll try and summerize a bunch of useful info here.
A couple basics.
*Kit types
A wet system adds fuel to the engine by taking excess fuel capacity directly from the fuel line and mixes/atomizes it with the nitrous in the nozzle (usually plumbed into your intake pipe after the MAF/etc but before the throttle body.)
For this to work properly, your fuel system needs to be able to support your engine without the N20, PLUS whatever HP you are adding. So adding a 200 shot with no fuel mods will make the engine run
very lean (not that fuel would be the only problem!)
From what I have gathered from the various builds/SC threads, the stock fuel system should be fine with another 50-75hp via a wet shot, but I'd stop there unless you want to push it.
A dry system by contrast adds only N20, and relies on the engines intake air sensors to detect the much colder temps and add more fuel via the injectors. For this to work you need the same fuel system capacity I mentioned above, but also extra headroom in your injectors (AND a lot of faith in your engine sensors)... I consider this option infererior to the wet kits as most N20 guys do. They tend to be popular only because they are cheaper and much easier to install. Many 'cheater' style hidden kits are also dry.
*Install
The install itself isn't too bad but expect it to take most of the day if its your first one. This basic list isn't all encompasing, but I wanted you to get a basic idea of what needs to be done.
You'll need to do at least these steps:
*Change spark plugs to one step colder (and NO PLATINUM!)
*Mount bottle securely in your trunk (and doing so without drilling into your gas tank)
*Run blowdown tube from bottle into atmosphere
*Run SS N20 line from trunk to engine, attaching to solenoid
*Tap factory fuel line fitting and run SS line to fuel solenoid
*Attach FPSS
*Wire solenoids using newly wired underhood relays
*Run new power wire from your battery to your trunk (ideally through the inside of your car) for bottle heater (you can skip this if you an amp already)
*Set up bottle heater relay
*Run wire from N20 and Heater relay into passenger compartment for switch wiring
*Wire Heater and System activation switches
*Run wire from TPS switch to relay
*Calibrate TPS switch
*Misc
Then you can drive it and realize why the last 6 hours were
completely worth it, but it is
NOT the 'cheap' or 'easy' solution some people think it is.
*What to buy/Costs
As for parts, here is what I would do.
Buy a basic EFI N20 kit
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog/product_details.asp?group=14&model=134&dept=11&product_id=3215
Add the safety stuff
Heater
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog/product_details.asp?group=23&model=76&dept=11&product_id=2775
FPSS
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog/product_details.asp?group=24&model=95&dept=11&product_id=1618
Plugs (NGK TR6 is the favorite - 1 step colder)
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog/product_details.asp?group=26&model=101&dept=11&product_id=164
TPS switch
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog/product_details.asp?group=26&model=85&dept=11&product_id=352
(or this one, with built in window switch - but I have not confirmed it will work with our ignition... though it
should)
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog/product_details.asp?group=26&model=86&dept=11&product_id=964
You can see that it adds up to a sizable amount. That doesn't include the bottle fill-ups either (expect about $4 a lb, so $20 for a 5lb bottle) though it will last a while on a 50 or 75 shot.
You'll notice I linked to an 'off brand' kit. For our purposes I think its fine.
If I were doing a 200 shot and using it every night to bracket/street race I'd have linked an NX kit. It's your money so decide what you like better, but many use the kit I link and love.
None of them however would have bought it over the NX had money not been an issue.
If you have gotten this far you now know more about N20 then most, and you no longer have
ANY excuse for calling it 'NOS' (pronounced Nawws) - The real N20 guys laugh (hard) when they hear that. I know Paul Walker called it that, but shockingly he is
not an authority on car parts (who knew, right?)
Lastly, this is not all inclusive, you should do research on your own. Half the fun of 'tuning' is learning how this stuff works. Don't let me steal half your fun by blindly leading you to do what I would do. Come back in this thread after you've researched the hell out of it and tell how I'm wrong because or X, Y, and Z. Then everybody gets that much smarter!
PM me if you have any other questions, or post them up here. I hope this helped.