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Old March 16th, 2016, 03:48 PM   #31
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So far it's been pretty fun. Still trying to stay one step ahead so I don't run into m(any) surprises hah. I'm guessing I should be putting head bolts on the "new parts list" right? How about the bearing cap and side bolts? Ok to reuse?
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Old March 16th, 2016, 08:06 PM   #32
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Yup head bolt work be nice. Might as well since you are doing all this work
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Old March 17th, 2016, 04:52 AM   #33
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So far it's been pretty fun. Still trying to stay one step ahead so I don't run into m(any) surprises hah. I'm guessing I should be putting head bolts on the "new parts list" right? How about the bearing cap and side bolts? Ok to reuse?
Again, measure the bolts to look for stretch, if they check out they are fine to reuse.
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Old March 18th, 2016, 05:49 PM   #34
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Block went to the machine shop today, I also sourced a GoPro Hero 3 from my buddy to record the build process. I will uploading the videos onto my youtube channel under handle 07j30.

a question about heads, I am most likely going to be using RL heads, unless someone can make a case for PNP j32a3 heads with different cams for around the same price. I do not know much about any of the heads for these cars and have been trying to research however could use some guidance. it seems like some ppl think PNP is the way to go and others see very little gains out of PNP.

after comparing the cam profiles of RL, TLS,and MDX it would seem the RL is the most aggressive, but i dont know how the valves compare in any of these three. what would my best "bang for ur buck" be in the head department? considering I already have the J32a3 heads.
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Old March 25th, 2016, 09:26 AM   #35
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ok got a set of RL heads coming my way for $400 shipped. not to shabby.

Ive heard ppl say to use the RL head gaskets, given that they are the same casting and the price of the RL "gasket kit" is 200 per head vs 160 for the TL, do I NEED the RL gasket or is the TL gasket ok to use?

also, should I be using the RL timing belt?

lastly, using the J32a3 valve covers on these heads should be ok right?
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Old March 25th, 2016, 09:33 AM   #36
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moar!
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Old March 25th, 2016, 09:36 AM   #37
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The cooling passages are larger in the heads than the regular tl. Recommend the RL/TL-S head gaskets.

Correct me if im wrong
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Old March 25th, 2016, 06:08 PM   #38
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moar!
x2
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Old March 25th, 2016, 06:30 PM   #39
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They will b here April 1st along w the wrinkle red valve cover paint. Plan is to drop the heads off to the machine shop and pick up the block, order the guts for the bottom end (waiting on cyl bore measurements) and assemble.
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Old March 27th, 2016, 03:39 PM   #40
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Hey, any reason you didn't do a new J32a3 factory replacement block? They run for under $600 and could've safe you from going to a shop.
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Old March 27th, 2016, 04:23 PM   #41
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Hey, any reason you didn't do a new J32a3 factory replacement block? They run for under $600 and could've safe you from going to a shop.
Where on earth did you find that?

I'm guessing you mean just the pure plain block, no pistons or anything. That actually sounds plausible as a price come to think of it for bare block.
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Old March 27th, 2016, 04:42 PM   #42
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^ just the raw block no internals.

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Old March 27th, 2016, 08:03 PM   #43
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I dunno I guess I figured y not. It was the same price and I now have a spare sensor for everything, a mani I can add an m90 to, misc parts i can sell plus the disassembly is part of the learning process ( for me atleast) if I took it apart I can put it back together.
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Old March 27th, 2016, 08:08 PM   #44
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^ Makes sense
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Old March 27th, 2016, 08:09 PM   #45
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Where on earth did you find that?

I'm guessing you mean just the pure plain block, no pistons or anything. That actually sounds plausible as a price come to think of it for bare block.
Yup a bare block shipped from Acura.
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Old March 28th, 2016, 05:58 AM   #46
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Ahh, the blocks have come down in cost, at one point 2 years ago they were up to almost $1k ea.
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Old March 31st, 2016, 12:48 PM   #47
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Heads came in today, they r some dirty whores, pics to follow. machine shop is a slow process, I was able to place my order for the bottom end parts (pistons, rods, bearings, rings, oil pump/pan seals etc). should be arriving next week. machine shop wont b done with the block for probably 2 weeks, dunno y its taking so long but thats life.

never got an answer on weather my TL valve covers will fit the RL heads, but i dont see y not, so i cleaned them up to prep for the wrinkle red. I noticed this "Baffle" on the underside of the valve covers, on the 456 cover its screwed and riveted to the cover on the 123 its just riveted. I took the screws out to see if i could get the baffle off to clean under it but it wont budge.

anyone see a problem with grinding these damn rivets off since the screws will be holding it on anyway? dont wana ruin it but im puzzled as to y they would put screws here if it wasnt designed to be removed.

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Old April 1st, 2016, 02:09 PM   #48
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well atleast if the build goes horribly wrong ill have pretty new valve covers.







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Old April 1st, 2016, 02:55 PM   #49
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Those are nice! That will look good under the hood. Nice color
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Old April 2nd, 2016, 04:37 AM   #50
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Have fun keeping that wrinkly paint clean, it will act like a magnet and grab any dirt it can.
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Old April 2nd, 2016, 04:18 PM   #51
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here they r...dirty whores...they will b heading to the machine shop for new valve seals, decking, spring testing, pressure test and hot tank when $ provides opportunity. ypu can see the broken rear timing cover on the 123 head, it was damaged in shipping. Plan is to swap it with the j32a3 timing cover. anyone know if this will work ok?









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Old April 3rd, 2016, 05:11 AM   #52
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Yes, in fact they are both RCA castings.
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Old April 3rd, 2016, 09:21 AM   #53
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I thought so but thanks for the confirmation paul
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Old April 3rd, 2016, 09:53 AM   #54
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just wondering why not use a j30a5 head with the 86mm to increase Compression due to the smaller combustion chamber?
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Old April 3rd, 2016, 10:31 AM   #55
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just wondering why not use a j30a5 head with the 86mm to increase Compression due to the smaller combustion chamber?
Instead of having to Deck the RL heads? Good question...
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Old April 3rd, 2016, 10:46 AM   #56
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You can always PnP the accord heads to match the flow of the RL heads. But in retrospect it would be cheaper to get RL heads because of the upgrade camshaft and valve springs.
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Old April 3rd, 2016, 11:24 AM   #57
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This^^^...the cams r hard to find and ridiculous expensive new. When I said deck I just meant checking the deck not actually milling any off. I will be keeping the RL heads stock and just cleaning them up, replacing the seals and any worn parts.

Compression will b 11:1 with the RL pistons, I don't really want to go any higher than that.
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Old April 3rd, 2016, 12:03 PM   #58
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This^^^...the cams r hard to find and ridiculous expensive new. When I said deck I just meant checking the deck not actually milling any off. I will be keeping the RL heads stock and just cleaning them up, replacing the seals and any worn parts.

Compression will b 11:1 with the RL pistons, I don't really want to go any higher than that.
If you dont plan on boosting get that sucker up to 12:1 or 13:1!
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Old April 3rd, 2016, 04:39 PM   #59
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Have fun keeping that wrinkly paint clean, it will act like a magnet and grab any dirt it can.
Using some synthetic sealant or high temp wax or similar like would be used on a car exterior can help with that. Or wax infused resin.
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If you dont plan on boosting get that sucker up to 12:1 or 13:1!
Oh my. Next on my list. Dom was not happy about trying this idea without a knock sensor available by AEM's systems.
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Old April 3rd, 2016, 04:51 PM   #60
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Using some synthetic sealant or high temp wax or similar like would be used on a car exterior can help with that. Or wax infused resin.

Oh my. Next on my list. Dom was not happy about trying this idea without a knock sensor available by AEM's systems.
Dom was also not happy about me boosting but...its holding well! so far as I know lol
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