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Old April 4th, 2016, 05:06 AM   #61
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If you dont plan on boosting get that sucker up to 12:1 or 13:1!
Have you seen the cost of race gas???? I never go above 11.2:1 on pump gas, you are just asking for it.....
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Old April 4th, 2016, 11:06 AM   #62
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My understanding was the higher you raise the compression the more you could sacrifice reliability. And this will still be a daily.
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Old April 5th, 2016, 01:54 PM   #63
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Have you seen the cost of race gas???? I never go above 11.2:1 on pump gas, you are just asking for it.....
With the ease of application of a w/m injection kit nowadays the cost of low detonation fuel systems has dropped quite a bit.

Above 12 seems to be the kicker though where there's more injection than is reasonable.
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Old April 5th, 2016, 09:10 PM   #64
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Who does this NVA-AV6 think he is? I WOULD KNOW ABOVE ALL OTHERS. You will be fine at 17:1 compression and 21afr. My secrets have been revealed...

Any updates btw?
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Old April 5th, 2016, 09:28 PM   #65
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^ You can be like oraclem19 when he hit AFR of 21+ and went into warp speed
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Old April 6th, 2016, 10:40 AM   #66
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only update is more parts arriving, got some block guts in so i snapped a quick pic, cant do much until the block returns (hopefully early next week). I will be assembling the pistons/pins/rods in preparation.

on a side note its a PITA trying to source a good green bearing from honda. half of mine looked like this. luckily they r sending out some replacement which r hopefully better.

my micrometer only reads to 1/100th of a mm and most of these specs run into the 1000th, so im not sure if my measurements r worth anything but everything seems to be within spec so far. got some plastigauge for the rotating assy assembly.



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Old April 6th, 2016, 01:36 PM   #67
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only update is more parts arriving, got some block guts in so i snapped a quick pic, cant do much until the block returns (hopefully early next week). I will be assembling the pistons/pins/rods in preparation.

on a side note its a PITA trying to source a good green bearing from honda. half of mine looked like this. luckily they r sending out some replacement which r hopefully better.

my micrometer only reads to 1/100th of a mm and most of these specs run into the 1000th, so im not sure if my measurements r worth anything but everything seems to be within spec so far. got some plastigauge for the rotating assy assembly.
Those could be micrometer scratches themselves, but that's optimistic. Since you are doing this build to the T, definitely wait for good bearings.

High accuracy micrometers are a pain to get TBH. Which is why Plastigage is so useful. are you trying to get the diameters of pistons with the micrometer?
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^ You can be like oraclem19 when he hit AFR of 21+ and went into warp speed
True story. Cut a full second off of my 0-60 time if not more. Definitely tune for 21+ if you want to get massive speed boosts with this engine.
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Old April 6th, 2016, 01:48 PM   #68
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Yes. It is difficult to get the measurement directly at the diameter of the piston, but there is a piston to wall clearance spec in the manual. I'm trying to make sure I stay within it after the machine work on the block. Also want to make sure they didn't mix up some oversize Pistons in there lol. there is also a pin to piston clearance spec I'd like to stay within .
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Old April 6th, 2016, 02:14 PM   #69
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These are usually measurements done by the machine shop, getting precise measurements of circular objects usually requires a tool up in the hundreds of dollars.
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Old April 7th, 2016, 05:28 AM   #70
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Yeah, bearings are not treated the greatest from Honda Parts, my parts guy know to pack mine by rubber banding them together and in a seperate small box within the larger parts box. Hell I had to return cams that had small rust pits on them right out of the box, so yeah inspect everything carefully. Very small surface scratches on the bearings are not optimal looking but are ok as you will lose a micron or two off the surface just in break in.

Also when assembling/ordering the main bearings if possible have all of the bottom ones be the same color.
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Old April 7th, 2016, 12:02 PM   #71
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I have all yellows except on main #2 I have pink/pink. I'm not sure there is any way around that. The journal on the crank for #2 reads "1" so it should be the largest of them all. I'll have to double check this measurement/clearance w the plastigage.

What would the detriment be to the build using all yellows and the pink for the lowers?
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Old April 11th, 2016, 01:02 PM   #72
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Todays minimal progress, still waiting on the block from the machine shop.



now this may be a dumb question...but y do my J32A3 pistons appear to have more of a dome than my 05 RL pistons? (#13010-RJA-000). and shouldn't the total length of the assembled piston/rod be shorter to accommodate the larger stroke of the crank? part numbers all check out correctly.



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Old April 11th, 2016, 09:32 PM   #73
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Ok apparently the 11:1 compression of the RL piston is derived despite a flater dome, made up for by the increased stroke of the crank.

And my comparison of the assembled size of the pistons/rods isn't exactly a scientific measurement. Ive been told they r a few mm shorter. Although it sure doesn't look like it, I know the part numbers r right, so I will fall back to that.

This is still a learning expierence despite how much info I try to front load into my brain lol
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Old April 13th, 2016, 05:54 AM   #74
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Yes, less dome but higher compression due to stroke difference, more piston travel more squeeze. If you take two of the rods and put them both thru the same wrist pin the difference is then noticeable.
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Old April 13th, 2016, 08:44 PM   #75
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Just to satisfy my own curiosity i took them apart for a side by side comparison. also the block pressure tested good. installing hfpc and jpipe on the bros 9G tomm.

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Old April 14th, 2016, 01:18 PM   #76
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Just to satisfy my own curiosity i took them apart for a side by side comparison. also the block pressure tested good. installing hfpc and jpipe on the bros 9G tomm.
Remember to leave the top bolts of the HFPCs loose until you get the j pipe attached, and find something to support the old j pipe so it doesn't hit you in the face on its way down.

Two things that I forget to do every time.
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Old April 15th, 2016, 09:09 AM   #77
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It was a easy job after doing mine once already. I'll tell u what tho his car has some pretty bad rasp compared to mine. We both have the same setup practically, rv6 HFPC and j pipe with Borla catback. Strange.
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Old April 15th, 2016, 09:50 AM   #78
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It was a easy job after doing mine once already. I'll tell u what tho his car has some pretty bad rasp compared to mine. We both have the same setup practically, rv6 HFPC and j pipe with Borla catback. Strange.
So what's different?
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Old April 15th, 2016, 11:08 AM   #79
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I dunno man...the exhaust components are identical. Although my Borla is a catback which retains a mid muffler and resonator while his Borla is axle back (no mid muffler but one resonator on the stock midpipe). Dunno how significant the head design on the 9g differes from ours, but I'm thinking the main difference is the extra muffler I have.
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Old April 15th, 2016, 12:07 PM   #80
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Borla pipes are tiny. 2inches instead of 2.25
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Old April 19th, 2016, 09:39 AM   #81
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Ok so while I'm waiting for my bearings to come off of back order and the machine shop to get done w my block I figure I'll post a few general questions I have been trying to figure out.

Pulling the engine:

I'd like to go out through the top and leave the Ac compressor and ps attached in the bay. My question is can I seperate the engine from the tranny (6spd) and pull only the engine? I've heard this is possible only w auto trannies because they don't require as much clearance laterally to clear the drive plate from the tranny, while the 6spd doesn't have enough lateral space to clear the flywheel assembly. What do u guys know?
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Old April 19th, 2016, 06:29 PM   #82
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Why go through the hassle of separating them in the bay? Both can be pulled from the top without disconnecting the AC or PS lines. Then you can separate tranny to do your clutch and PP. I've seen it done multiple times and was even yelled at by Paul the last time because I mounted the XLR8 motor backwards and the engine wouldn't line up so he had to pull it back out so I could flip it. lol
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Old April 19th, 2016, 07:00 PM   #83
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This is exactly the info I need, and also exactly y I'm asking, so I don't make someone else's avoidable mistakes, I'm sure I'll make plenty of my own lol. So there's plenty of room to pull both out the top? I heard some ppl say it was tight.

Plan is to remove entire rad/fan assembly and front precat to clear extra room, along w all the normal stuff like battery/support and strut bar. Anything else that could make my life easier?
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Old April 19th, 2016, 09:27 PM   #84
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No need to remove the strut bar. Break lose the main pulley using the cranking the engine method. Pull fans and rad, battery support, lay ac and ps pump up by the strut bar, pull you shift linkage, unplug engine harness etc. Precats can stay if it's a hassle. Pull the engine and trans towards the front passenger side corner, tilt down the trans slightly as you're pulling it up. At least that how Paul does it lol
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Old April 20th, 2016, 06:06 AM   #85
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You can pull out the top, leave the tranny attached, much easier to alighn out of the bay anyway. Pull radiator, front precat for room the get around the strut bar. unbolt the AC compressor from the engine and wire up to the radiator support. Just go ahead and disconnect the PS pump and use pieces of paper towel to plug the open ends. Wrap the suction line behind the AC lines near the PS reservoir. Unbolt upper trans mount from the chassis and remove it from the bay (3 14mm head bolts)
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Old May 1st, 2016, 05:41 PM   #86
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In terms of removing your existing engine, this looks very close to what I see described above. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-Vm4Yd4pvk
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Old May 1st, 2016, 07:02 PM   #87
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Saw this just went up the other day. Literally perfect timing Eric the car guy is a great.

I will have updates this week, block finally getting back from machine shop
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Old May 6th, 2016, 11:51 AM   #88
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Good god...I wish we had more reputable machine shops in my area, over a month for a hone, a few measurements, a pressure test and a jet wash is frustrating. But they come highly recommended.

Dropped off the ra for balancing, was quoted two weeks worst case Ontario, we"ll see...
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Old May 6th, 2016, 02:37 PM   #89
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Good god...I wish we had more reputable machine shops in my area, over a month for a hone, a few measurements, a pressure test and a jet wash is frustrating. But they come highly recommended.

Dropped off the ra for balancing, was quoted two weeks worst case Ontario, we"ll see...
This isn't the place that I recommended that's taking so long, is it?
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Old May 6th, 2016, 04:19 PM   #90
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No it wasn't r&r...it's michaels racing engines in Macedonia...they were closer to me and got equally good reviews, and pricing. nice guys, just seems like a bit of the run around I'm getting. I'll likely be taking the heads to r&r because I'm pretty tired of it.
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