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Old May 9th, 2016, 01:29 PM   #91
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No it wasn't r&r...it's michaels racing engines in Macedonia...they were closer to me and got equally good reviews, and pricing. nice guys, just seems like a bit of the run around I'm getting. I'll likely be taking the heads to r&r because I'm pretty tired of it.
I didn't recommend R&R lol. That's not to say they're a bad shop, but I've never dealt with them before.

Anyways, it turns out that the shop that I did recommend to you (Story Motors in Massillon) cannot balance J-series cranks because their tool wont fit between the hammers.
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Old May 9th, 2016, 06:52 PM   #92
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Good god...I wish we had more reputable machine shops in my area, over a month for a hone, a few measurements, a pressure test and a jet wash is frustrating. But they come highly recommended.

Dropped off the ra for balancing, was quoted two weeks worst case Ontario, we"ll see...
If they have not done a J before they probably do not have the block-off plates and fixture needed, the generic ones most shops have will NOT work on the J, I made my own set.

Also make damn sure they hone the bores to 400grit at 60D, again not a usual thing.....
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Old May 9th, 2016, 06:54 PM   #93
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I didn't recommend R&R lol. That's not to say they're a bad shop, but I've never dealt with them before.

Anyways, it turns out that the shop that I did recommend to you (Story Motors in Massillon) cannot balance J-series cranks because their tool wont fit between the hammers.
Find a shop that does 350Z engines, tooling will be compatible.
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Old May 10th, 2016, 06:27 PM   #94
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If they have not done a J before they probably do not have the block-off plates and fixture needed, the generic ones most shops have will NOT work on the J, I made my own set.

Also make damn sure they hone the bores to 400grit at 60D, again not a usual thing.....

Well...the honing is done already...I told them 400 grit 60 degrees because that's what the manual said. I am a little nervous about the amount removed from the hone...all my cyl bores were between 3.5045 and 3.5050" which is right at the top of "new" spec range and doesn't leave much room for material removal considering the "service limit" is 3.5065". Anywhere beyond that and the block needs to be rebored and oversize Pistons used correct? I guess I'm not sure how much gets removed during honing...seems like it can vary widely.

Although I did give them the factory spec sheet to reference.
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Old May 11th, 2016, 05:02 AM   #95
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I have gone as far out as 3.508" and still run stock pistons with no issues on a engine built for my own car. Now keep in mind I do run 10-30 oil in my cars as I have seen wayy too much bore wear in my core engines that have run 0 & 5 wgt oil and have had blocks with really worn bores from cores with only 80K miles but were being run with synthetic.
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Old May 11th, 2016, 09:23 AM   #96
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ok well that makes me feel a bit better about the situation, id hate to have to buy a new block. my main concern was oil consumption on bores being above "service limit" with standard sized rings. if im understanding you right, you are saying the heavier weight oil reduces oil consumption on cylinders with these larger bores while still running standard sized pistons/rings? will main/rod bearing lubrication be adversely affected by this heavier (thicker) oil?
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Old May 12th, 2016, 04:54 AM   #97
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ok well that makes me feel a bit better about the situation, id hate to have to buy a new block. my main concern was oil consumption on bores being above "service limit" with standard sized rings. if im understanding you right, you are saying the heavier weight oil reduces oil consumption on cylinders with these larger bores while still running standard sized pistons/rings? will main/rod bearing lubrication wont be affected by this heavier (thicker) oil?
If anything it is improved as the thicker oil provies a heavier cushion between the bearing and journal as well as much improved piston to wall lubrication
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Old May 18th, 2016, 04:28 PM   #98
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Thumbs down

what do you want first the good news or bad?

good news is all my cyl bores measured btw 3.5049" and 3.5051" so thats good. but thats where the good news ends.

while balancing the RA my machine shop noticed my crank was bent by .038". pretty significant, he said the motor wouldn't even turn over with a bend like that. bought the crank from a parts guy at a honda dealer who said they ordered the crank for a job and the guy cancelled on them. starting to think i should have listened to my gut when it threw a red flag

we did the transaction using paypal and i made him write me an invoice so hopefully that helps. i called them and opened a case, now i need paperwork from the machine shop showing the damage, no big deal. but it also means im ordering a new crank, which will mean im ordering new bearings also, (im still waiting on a pink main bearing that was on backorder for the original crank. i guess i wont be needing that (maybe). and worst of all it means i will have more down time before turning any wrenches, i need a beer.
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Old May 18th, 2016, 07:07 PM   #99
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Don't be discouraged man. My build took almost 2yrs to complete mainly because of personal stuff but Paul had to overnight motor mounts for me during the install and i had to have my in-laws overnight my clutch because it didn't show up when P2R said it would.
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Old May 18th, 2016, 07:47 PM   #100
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Yeah don't be discourage man. I been having a **** ton of issue with my turbo build from Day 1. It is to be expected when you go outside of the norm.
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Old May 19th, 2016, 05:11 AM   #101
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what do you want first the good news or bad?

good news is all my cyl bores measured btw 3.5049" and 3.5051" so thats good. but thats where the good news ends.

while balancing the RA my machine shop noticed my crank was bent by .038". pretty significant, he said the motor wouldn't even turn over with a bend like that. bought the crank from a parts guy at a honda dealer who said they ordered the crank for a job and the guy cancelled on them. starting to think i should have listened to my gut when it threw a red flag

we did the transaction using paypal and i made him write me an invoice so hopefully that helps. i called them and opened a case, now i need paperwork from the machine shop showing the damage, no big deal. but it also means im ordering a new crank, which will mean im ordering new bearings also, (im still waiting on a pink main bearing that was on backorder for the original crank. i guess i wont be needing that (maybe). and worst of all it means i will have more down time before turning any wrenches, i need a beer.
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Old May 19th, 2016, 02:12 PM   #102
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what do you want first the good news or bad?

good news is all my cyl bores measured btw 3.5049" and 3.5051" so thats good. but thats where the good news ends.

while balancing the RA my machine shop noticed my crank was bent by .038". pretty significant, he said the motor wouldn't even turn over with a bend like that. bought the crank from a parts guy at a honda dealer who said they ordered the crank for a job and the guy cancelled on them. starting to think i should have listened to my gut when it threw a red flag

we did the transaction using paypal and i made him write me an invoice so hopefully that helps. i called them and opened a case, now i need paperwork from the machine shop showing the damage, no big deal. but it also means im ordering a new crank, which will mean im ordering new bearings also, (im still waiting on a pink main bearing that was on backorder for the original crank. i guess i wont be needing that (maybe). and worst of all it means i will have more down time before turning any wrenches, i need a beer.


That lousy guy - Murphy (Murphy's Law)


Hey man, at least it was discovered OUTSIDE of the engine. Could have been worse.
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Old May 19th, 2016, 03:19 PM   #103
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That lousy guy - Murphy (Murphy's Law)


Hey man, at least it was discovered OUTSIDE of the engine. Could have been worse.
you're absolutely right, im glad it was discovered when it was, but having such a costly part eat into my "slush" fund for this build so soon is aggravating none the less.

new crank ordered, along with water/oil pumps, Tbelt tensioner, adjuster and idler, updated bearings to be shipped with order, hopefully i can reuse many of my yellows/greens. fingers crossed.
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Old May 21st, 2016, 04:49 AM   #104
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you're absolutely right, im glad it was discovered when it was, but having such a costly part eat into my "slush" fund for this build so soon is aggravating none the less.

new crank ordered, along with water/oil pumps, Tbelt tensioner, adjuster and idler, updated bearings to be shipped with order, hopefully i can reuse many of my yellows/greens. fingers crossed.
Yellow and Greens are most common used, I always like to keep all lower mains the same color if possible. Also let me know if you have some you dont use, I'll pickem up from you for what I normally pay, I am sure I will use them.....
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Old May 24th, 2016, 07:31 PM   #105
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Only needed 4 different bearings. And the new crank allows me to use all yellow main lowers, so that's good. Back to the waiting game.
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Old May 28th, 2016, 03:51 PM   #106
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what do you want first the good news or bad?

good news is all my cyl bores measured btw 3.5049" and 3.5051" so thats good. but thats where the good news ends.

while balancing the RA my machine shop noticed my crank was bent by .038". pretty significant, he said the motor wouldn't even turn over with a bend like that. bought the crank from a parts guy at a honda dealer who said they ordered the crank for a job and the guy cancelled on them. starting to think i should have listened to my gut when it threw a red flag

we did the transaction using paypal and i made him write me an invoice so hopefully that helps. i called them and opened a case, now i need paperwork from the machine shop showing the damage, no big deal. but it also means im ordering a new crank, which will mean im ordering new bearings also, (im still waiting on a pink main bearing that was on backorder for the original crank. i guess i wont be needing that (maybe). and worst of all it means i will have more down time before turning any wrenches, i need a beer.
Ah crap, that was my recommendation too... now I'm trying to figure out if there was any way to know that by the data provided or anything short of him taking it to a machine shop himself to get the specs verified...
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That lousy guy - Murphy (Murphy's Law)


Hey man, at least it was discovered OUTSIDE of the engine. Could have been worse.
^^^^These men are also very right. ^^^^

At least you didn't somehow destroy your car's ability to detect the ABS/TCS CAN bus by swapping your motor. Or almost drop an engine and trans on yourself due to a badly made engine lift destroying most parts on the driver's side of the trans.

Hope things are turning up.
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Old May 28th, 2016, 06:59 PM   #107
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Lol yea I can honestly say while I was reading ur swap I am glad I wasn't you. Electrical problems are my worst nightmare, takes some serious patience and tedious work to work those gremlins out. It sounds like you have made some progress atleast.

Honestly there was no way of knowing if it was a legit seller or not, you just pointed me in the direction I pulled the trigger so I own that much of the situation.

Parts were supposto be delivered today but I wasn't home to sign for them
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Old June 21st, 2016, 07:40 PM   #108
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ok guys...block and balanced RA back from the machine shop. plan is to assemble the RA and attach the water/oil pump, end cover, then oil pan after checking tolerances with plastigauge.

as you can see the block and crank need to be cleaned up. my plan was to use dawn soap and scrub with a toothbrush. machine shop recommended cleaning the oil gallies in the block and all oil passages in the crank. whats the best way to do this? i have compressed air but not sure if i need some way of mechanically scrubbing inside those small passages. suggestions?

oil cylinder bores and crank after cleaning no doubt, what to use? guy told me WD40, but i dunno if that has the "staying power" though (too thin?).
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Old June 21st, 2016, 08:22 PM   #109
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brake cleaner by the gallon?
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Old June 21st, 2016, 08:28 PM   #110
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I have no problem doing that...ive been reading about people removing plugs on the block and balls on the crank for cleaning, this is more than i wanted to do and dont know if its necessary?
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Old June 22nd, 2016, 04:31 AM   #111
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I have no problem doing that...ive been reading about people removing plugs on the block and balls on the crank for cleaning, this is more than i wanted to do and dont know if its necessary?
I have never done it, if the crank is soo damn gunked up that you cant blow what little debris is in the crank passages with a fresh can of brake cleaner and the straw the crank need to go away.....

Also looking at you block picture, that vertical scratch is right at the damn top compression ring, no bueno it will allow gunk to get between the two compression rings and should have been honed out or the block replaced.

Edit. Taking a second look at the pic, that cylinder was not honed correctly, looks like they just ran a flex hone thru, I can see a dip in the cylinder wall that again should have been honed out.
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Old June 22nd, 2016, 04:35 AM   #112
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brake cleaner by the gallon?
Yeah, I wait for my local Advance to have a BOGO or other good sale then walk out with 4 -8 cases of the stuff.
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Old June 22nd, 2016, 08:31 AM   #113
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I will take a look at it when I get home...could just be the angle/debris. I certainly don't remember any scratches that looked like that when I took it apart. I'll pop a ring in there and see if there's any gaps along the wall
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Old June 29th, 2016, 08:41 AM   #114
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So some good news, the "scratch" isn't a scratch, just scuff marks from when the hone was extracted and it can't be felt with the fingernail. there are light scuff marks at the top of almost every cylinder. none of these r an issue was the consensus after carting the block to multiple different machine shops and asking them.

Might actually turn some wrenches next week after I give her a good cleaning. Ideally I'd like to clean the block and drop in the crank in one day to avoid additional foreign material build up.
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Old July 7th, 2016, 10:26 AM   #115
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So some good news, the "scratch" isn't a scratch, just scuff marks from when the hone was extracted and it can't be felt with the fingernail. there are light scuff marks at the top of almost every cylinder. none of these r an issue was the consensus after carting the block to multiple different machine shops and asking them.

Might actually turn some wrenches next week after I give her a good cleaning. Ideally I'd like to clean the block and drop in the crank in one day to avoid additional foreign material build up.
Clean the oil passages thoroughly......
Clean the oil passages thoroughly......
Clean the oil passages thoroughly......

then

Clean the oil passages thoroughly......
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Old July 7th, 2016, 11:47 AM   #116
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Glad for this thread, will help to ensure I triple check what needs to be done for my J37 build.

Hiccups are expected, but glad to see continual progress being made with your build.
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Old July 8th, 2016, 10:27 AM   #117
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Update:

got everything cleaned with dawn and blown out with air, then dumped a couple cans of brake cleaner through all the oil passages and used a nylon brush to scrub them before finishing them with more compressed air. same thing on the crank and bearings.

checked all my oil clearances for the main bearings with plastigauge and they were all very well within "new" spec limits. im really super impressed...Honda seems to have a very high rate of success with their sizing system. anywho I also checked the crank endplay and it too was well within "new" spec. dropped the crank into the block and torqued everything down to spec. it spins very nice, very easily.

next step will be to finish piston assembly and marry them to the crank. any tips on this? im going to be using a 89mm wiseco tapered ring compressor as ive heard these work way better than the adjustable ones.

Im assuming ill need to clean the bores once again before I drop the pistons in (the block is double bagged tightly currently). any tips on cleaning the bores? can I use brake cleaner again even though the crank is in and lubed?

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Old July 8th, 2016, 08:00 PM   #118
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Plan right now is to use some Kim wipes and mineral spirits followed by atf making passes each time w a new rag until a single bore is clean, then oil it up and drop the piston in before repeating the process on the next bore.
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Old July 14th, 2016, 08:42 AM   #119
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So I tore everything down again and cleaned things one more time...just for good measure. I checked all the ring clearances which were dead on. I had trouble checking the oil ring clearance though. When it gives the spec for the oil rings which one is it referring to? The corrugated one or the top and bottom flat ones? The corrugated one has no gap at all but it's hard to get an accurate measurement because it's so flimsy. Should I be worried about this? Any tips for getting an accurate measurement? The method from the shop manual doesn't seem to work too well.
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Old July 15th, 2016, 04:25 AM   #120
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So I tore everything down again and cleaned things one more time...just for good measure. I checked all the ring clearances which were dead on. I had trouble checking the oil ring clearance though. When it gives the spec for the oil rings which one is it referring to? The corrugated one or the top and bottom flat ones? The corrugated one has no gap at all but it's hard to get an accurate measurement because it's so flimsy. Should I be worried about this? Any tips for getting an accurate measurement? The method from the shop manual doesn't seem to work too well.
Oil ring spec is the wipers, not the core. I usually just use a piston to evenly get them in the bore.
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