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Old July 15th, 2016, 09:48 AM   #121
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Ok great thank u paul...I used that method on the primary and secondary rings w good success. I will try it again with the scrapers

Also for anyone wondering...Kim wipes are not lint free. I'm going to be buying a synthetic chamois for final bore cleaning. It's the only thing I can think of that's totally lint free.
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Old July 26th, 2016, 12:37 PM   #122
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RL heads came back from machine shop. decked, pressure tested, hot tanked, seals and guides replaced, springs tested, valves adjusted. cleaned up pretty good if u ask me. Ive heard the valve lash will change after they are bolted to the block...can anyone confirm this?

BEFORE:









AFTER:











still need a final cleaning before install
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Old August 4th, 2016, 11:30 AM   #123
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UPDATE:

completed the RA install today. everything came out within spec. i had a couple of rod bearing oil clearances on the "tighter" end of the range (.020-.044mm). two of mine were at .025mm which i wasn't super excited about, but still within spec so nbd.

that tapered ring compressor was awesome, made it a breeze, def recommend. i ordered in the rest of the parts i need to get the heads on, so that will be next.



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Old August 4th, 2016, 06:29 PM   #124
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On a side note, is there any chance the extra displacement and breathing capability of the 3.6 will damage my current hfpcs? I've heard of a few failures that take the cylinder heads with them when the cat material fails. Def not interested in damaging my new engine and ruining all my hard work over something that could have been avoided.
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Old August 4th, 2016, 08:46 PM   #125
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EGR block off plate or PCD will prevent that.
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Old August 5th, 2016, 06:38 AM   #126
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I'm currently running a tune w the egr disabled and the valve closed. Will I still need the egr plate? I've heard small parts of broken catalyst can actually migrate back into the head through the exhaust valves due to the pulse of the cylinder. Not sure how accurate that actually is. The easy answer would be to get pcd but I really don't want to redo my entire exhaust setup, because I'll have to add resonators if I swap to pcd.
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Old August 5th, 2016, 03:29 PM   #127
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get PCD.
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Old August 5th, 2016, 05:04 PM   #128
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get PCD.
any reasoning behind that or did it just seem like a good 2nd post? please elaborate!!!
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Old August 6th, 2016, 04:20 AM   #129
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I haven't heard about it going through the exhaust valves, but definitely through the egr.mine was stuck open once on my j30.it was a little pebble from the cat.

As for pcd over the egr block off, he may be referring to the safety along with the power gain.

Did Bobby changed his handle?
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Old August 8th, 2016, 12:21 PM   #130
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this is why you always check your parts after they come back from the machine shop. this is a piece of wire wheel that went flying from god knows where and landed in my head.

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Old August 11th, 2016, 05:13 AM   #131
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This is why I am very heavy on the air gun when I know a part is dry and is in cam/crank/oil/contact areas. If anything comes back at me I know there's a good chance there's more somewhere else.
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Old August 11th, 2016, 06:37 AM   #132
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I ran a small bit strong magnet through everywhere I could reach and picked up a couple more smaller fragments...the final blow off will b tomorrow before I bolt on the heads.
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Old August 11th, 2016, 12:47 PM   #133
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I ran a small bit strong magnet through everywhere I could reach and picked up a couple more smaller fragments...the final blow off will b tomorrow before I bolt on the heads.
Use fairly high pressure, as I've found with 40-60 unless you're very close to the actual contaminant it can dance around inside the part.

Does all of this head work mean that you intend to use this head as the end all solution? Given that there hasn't been actual head work yet, there is still a significant amount of work in the head fo ryou to intend to use any other head.
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Old August 11th, 2016, 01:35 PM   #134
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any reasoning behind that or did it just seem like a good 2nd post? please elaborate!!!
Both. It was a great 2nd post, and I've replaced over a dozen engines due to PCD failure.


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I haven't heard about it going through the exhaust valves, but definitely through the egr.mine was stuck open once on my j30.it was a little pebble from the cat.

As for pcd over the egr block off, he may be referring to the safety along with the power gain.

Did Bobby changed his handle?
forgot my password for old account. and emails have changed. it's been a while.
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Old August 11th, 2016, 05:07 PM   #135
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Use fairly high pressure, as I've found with 40-60 unless you're very close to the actual contaminant it can dance around inside the part.

Does all of this head work mean that you intend to use this head as the end all solution? Given that there hasn't been actual head work yet, there is still a significant amount of work in the head fo ryou to intend to use any other head.
good advice i usually crank it to 125 psi. there has been no "work" done to the head in regards to port/polish, only refurbished/ tested to ensure they will function as new and be reliable for the long haul. from what ive found there's too much speculation/heresay regarding weather port work is worth the time, effort, and money. and im nearing my budget for this build. maybe ill tear down the j32a3 heads and do some self learning since i cant sell them lol.
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Old August 11th, 2016, 05:09 PM   #136
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Both. It was a great 2nd post, and I've replaced over a dozen engines due to PCD failure.
im assuming you mean HFPC? and were these cheap ebay HFPC or RV6?
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Old August 11th, 2016, 07:31 PM   #137
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Both. It was a great 2nd post, and I've replaced over a dozen engines due to PCD failure.




forgot my password for old account. and emails have changed. it's been a while.
Gotcha. Yea , that update messed with a lot of people.
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Old August 11th, 2016, 07:38 PM   #138
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im assuming you mean HFPC? and were these cheap ebay HFPC or RV6?
Any cat has the potential to deteriorate over time. The quality determines the longevity. Mine were oem with about 150k miles on them at the time. I'm sure paul can chime in on the ones he's seen take out engines also. In your case, pick the route yyou're more comfortable with. If i were to run HFC I would inspect them at least every 40k or so. Engine health has a lot to do with it also. AfR, blow-by, etc.
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Old August 12th, 2016, 09:08 AM   #139
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im assuming you mean HFPC? and were these cheap ebay HFPC or RV6?
i'm talking about OEM Precats. They got to go. Realistically, no cats should be there. Way too close to the engine IMO, and the whole purpose of a good exhaust system is to excavate that heat as fast as efficient as possible. I would get the RV6 PCD, keep the stock cats around incase you need to smog/inspection.


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Gotcha. Yea , that update messed with a lot of people.
I didn't know of a update, just noticed I couldn't log into my old account anymore ha ha.
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Old August 13th, 2016, 08:22 AM   #140
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I'll inspect my rv6 hfpc when I swap the engine. They have been on my healthy j30 for prob 25k miles. If I need pcd it's gonna require an entire exhaust overhaul. This is my daily so it needs to be tolerable to listen to. Meaning I'll need one high flow cat to kill rasp probably.
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Old August 13th, 2016, 05:36 PM   #141
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Keep them but do inspect it often or run water methanol to keep exhuast gas temp down.
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Old August 14th, 2016, 08:56 AM   #142
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this thread brings back memories. I remember being in the same spot you are when building mine
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Old August 14th, 2016, 01:38 PM   #143
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damn that thing is clean...makes mine look like a pig although its only a pig on the outside, the inside and all essential parts r clean as i can get them, hopefully its clean enough.

im gonna go over the cyl bores one more time before bolting the heads on, should i use ATF or regular oil to coat them before i bolt the heads on? the engine might sit a couple months before swapping it in i just want to make sure no corrosion pops up in that time, suggestions?
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Old August 14th, 2016, 04:19 PM   #144
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damn that thing is clean...makes mine look like a pig although its only a pig on the outside, the inside and all essential parts r clean as i can get them, hopefully its clean enough.

im gonna go over the cyl bores one more time before bolting the heads on, should i use ATF or regular oil to coat them before i bolt the heads on? the engine might sit a couple months before swapping it in i just want to make sure no corrosion pops up in that time, suggestions?
that was when a brand new block from acura was $499. man, have the prices really sky rocketed.

I used a light coat of wd-40 as a recommendation from a guy on acurazine that has built a few motors in his day. mine sat for almost 2 months before I installed it. started up first crank and it has about 14k miles now with no issues. Maybe Paul will chime in with a suggestion
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Old August 14th, 2016, 05:31 PM   #145
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It would be nice to hear his process, along with break in procedure. The research I've done seems varied on both of these subjects. Many people r saying idle up to operating temp then idle 15 mins more. Change oil, then go for some wot pulls up to 5k rpm while staying in gear and let the car slow down to 2500 or so to seat the primary and secondary compression rings.
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Old August 15th, 2016, 12:57 PM   #146
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Old August 15th, 2016, 02:21 PM   #147
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Specs?
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Old August 15th, 2016, 03:42 PM   #148
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Specs?
first built J Series in the world. custom CP piston, 89mm, 11.5:1 custom carillo rods. Knife edged crankshaft by castillo. custom race bearings, and arp rod bolts.

Built in December 2010, has over 20k track only miles. Still runs strong.
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Old August 16th, 2016, 10:34 AM   #149
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UPDATE:

got almost everything put together. still need to set timing and adjust valves, get DMF/clutch set.

the manual was very varied on head bolts. the 12 point head bolts had a tq to angle spec and the 6 point head bolts had a staged tq spec. my new bolts were 6 point so i used the staged spec, although i broke it down to 8 steps as opposed to the 3 in the manual. final tq spec 72.3

anyone know y the manual calls for torquing the timing belt idler pulley after the belt is on but before the tensioner pin is pulled? seems like more of a pain that way. (id have to hold the belt in place while torquing the idler while the rear head is balancing on the peak of the cam lobe.)























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Old August 16th, 2016, 10:37 AM   #150
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It is so pretty.
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