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Old August 16th, 2016, 10:43 AM   #151
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question from earlier that was never answered. there is a ton of dirty **** under these "plates" inside the valve covers that there's no way to reach. however, they are RIVETED to the body of the valve cover, so there's also no way to remove the plates to clean under there.

Can i grind these rivets off to remove the plate? then either leave them off or drill/tap threads for screws instead?







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Old August 16th, 2016, 11:59 AM   #152
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question from earlier that was never answered. there is a ton of dirty **** under these "plates" inside the valve covers that there's no way to reach. however, they are RIVETED to the body of the valve cover, so there's also no way to remove the plates to clean under there.

Can i grind these rivets off to remove the plate? then either leave them off or drill/tap threads for screws instead?
don't make it difficult on yourself. Stop by the gas station, buy a couple gallons of diesel and let it soak.
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Old August 16th, 2016, 12:45 PM   #153
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After it soaks will I need pressurized water to blast it out?

and for anyone wondering i used a light coat of atf to coat the cyl bores
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Old August 16th, 2016, 05:53 PM   #154
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LOOKING GOOD! almost done, man!
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Old August 17th, 2016, 02:25 PM   #155
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which sensors/components on this list would be most vital to replace? bear in mind i dont know the condition of the donor motor counterparts, but all my current j30a5 components seem to be working fine. id like to reuse all the other sensors unless there is something that is pretty vital/makes sense to replace now while the engine is out. (crank sensor? or do these rarely go bad?).

knock sensor-already ordered new
crank sensor-$169
oil pressure switch-already installed new
VTEC switch+solenoid- already installed new
TDC sensor on 456 front timing cover- $69
Coolant temp sensor-$32
Thermostat-$30


if there are any other components im missing please throw out some ideas.
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Old August 17th, 2016, 02:34 PM   #156
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Knock sensor and the wiring. Rats love to chew them up and they get brittle from the heat
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Old August 18th, 2016, 04:50 AM   #157
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Definitely do the thermostat. depending on mileage, I'd probably do the crank sensor, too
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Old August 18th, 2016, 06:35 PM   #158
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Definitely do the thermostat. depending on mileage, I'd probably do the crank sensor, too
Thermostat most definitely. You cleaned all the water passages or had them cleaned while the block was under correct?

Doing the thermo now is much easier, as well as it will let you choose how the car heats/behaves in water temp. A guru may need to ammend this but I believe some part of our system can be manipulated by putting a standard (192?) thermo on there to keep the system on and using a lower one to keep the system off. You can also at this point choose between a thermostat with a float control valve in it, which will prevent all flow under certain conditions and a minimal amount of flow under others, or a partially always open thermo. From my understanding the thermos with no float valves, and instead just a precisely sized hole, allow for more even system heating which can be crucial in locations where the engine can get extremely cold.
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Old August 18th, 2016, 07:21 PM   #159
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I just started running a mishimoto low temp thermo with a lower fan setting in FP. this is along with the larger aluminum radiator i put in when the J36 was installed. rarely saw ECT over 200F. I know this has been debated on numerous forums, just my $.02.

Depending on mileage, I would keep an APP sensor on standby also. Apart from what was mentioned above, that should be it.
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Old August 18th, 2016, 08:28 PM   #160
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yup had the app sensor go bad shortly after installing flashpro
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Old August 20th, 2016, 01:41 PM   #161
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Ok great I'll put the app sensor on the list. Thanks guys. On a side note does anyone know the volume of the combustion chamber on the rl/tl heads? I've found numbers btw 53 and 58cc. I'm asking because I'm almost positive the compression on this build will be higher than the "widely accepted" 11:1.

The math just doesn't support 11:1
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Old August 23rd, 2016, 08:48 PM   #162
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i have come across others who state the RL pistons do not produce 11:1 compression in this build. and im starting to agree with them.

using J35A8 specs:
deck height on (almost any) J series= 235mm
rod length on J35= 158.5mm
crank throw on j35= 93/2=46.5mm
compression on J35A8 RL=11:1

plugging in these numbers knowing the RL factory compression ratio gives us a compression height of the RL piston at 30mm to make it zero deck clearance. working off this known 11:1 compression and zero deck clearance gives us a CC volume of 58cc, which is supported by another source ive found.

Using J36 specs:
deck height= 235mm
rod length on j37= 157.02mm
crank throw on j37= 96/2= 48mm

using the 30mm compression height of the RL piston gives us a total deck clearance of -.02mm (235-30-48-157.02). using these numbers along with the same 58cc CC volume spits out a CR of 11.3:1.

if the RL piston didn't have a 30 mm compression height it would be one of the only j series without a zero deck clearance spec AND although i didn't measure the exact deck clearance before i installed the heads (wish i would have) i can tell you it had to be damn close to zero on my J36. (supporting the math of -.02mm which looks damn near flat w the naked eye).

if one were using a piston with a confirmed compression height of 30mm and a dome on top of that (TL/CL-S pistons) it would lower the CC volume further which would RAISE the static compression past my calc on the RL pistons of 11.3

Ive seen ppl say "CL-S pistons for 10.5:1 and RL for 11:1" on this build and i just dont find that to be true. from what ive found RL pistons produce LOWER compression on this build and CL-S pistons produce HIGHER compression.

the only real unknown factor of this whole thing is CC vol with compressed factory head gasket. but again from my research it comes out to 58cc total. and in all honesty after decking the heads and block surfaces if anything it would be less than 58cc, again raising compression.

just putting this out there food for thought. and if anyone has concrete info on the compression height of the RL piston please chime in.
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Old August 24th, 2016, 12:53 AM   #163
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i have come across others who state the RL pistons do not produce 11:1 compression in this build. and im starting to agree with them.

using J35A8 specs:
deck height on (almost any) J series= 235mm
rod length on J35= 158.5mm
crank throw on j35= 93/2=46.5mm
compression on J35A8 RL=11:1

plugging in these numbers knowing the RL factory compression ratio gives us a compression height of the RL piston at 30mm to make it zero deck clearance. working off this known 11:1 compression and zero deck clearance gives us a CC volume of 58cc, which is supported by another source ive found.

Using J36 specs:
deck height= 235mm
rod length on j37= 157.02mm
crank throw on j37= 96/2= 48mm

using the 30mm compression height of the RL piston gives us a total deck clearance of -.02mm (235-30-48-157.02). using these numbers along with the same 58cc CC volume spits out a CR of 11.3:1.

if the RL piston didn't have a 30 mm compression height it would be one of the only j series without a zero deck clearance spec AND although i didn't measure the exact deck clearance before i installed the heads (wish i would have) i can tell you it had to be damn close to zero on my J36. (supporting the math of -.02mm which looks damn near flat w the naked eye).

if one were using a piston with a confirmed compression height of 30mm and a dome on top of that (TL/CL-S pistons) it would lower the CC volume further which would RAISE the static compression past my calc on the RL pistons of 11.3

Ive seen ppl say "CL-S pistons for 10.5:1 and RL for 11:1" on this build and i just dont find that to be true. from what ive found RL pistons produce LOWER compression on this build and CL-S pistons produce HIGHER compression.

the only real unknown factor of this whole thing is CC vol with compressed factory head gasket. but again from my research it comes out to 58cc total. and in all honesty after decking the heads and block surfaces if anything it would be less than 58cc, again raising compression.

just putting this out there food for thought. and if anyone has concrete info on the compression height of the RL piston please chime in.
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So uh... given the compression ratio, want to go ahead and send back that manifold? Been working on something for w/m injection on very small cc on either a stealth manifold build or stealth spacer.
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Old August 24th, 2016, 07:13 AM   #164
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Use cls because they are not forged to save weight.
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Old August 24th, 2016, 09:08 AM   #165
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i have come across others who state the RL pistons do not produce 11:1 compression in this build. and im starting to agree with them.

using J35A8 specs:
deck height on (almost any) J series= 235mm
rod length on J35= 158.5mm
crank throw on j35= 93/2=46.5mm
compression on J35A8 RL=11:1

plugging in these numbers knowing the RL factory compression ratio gives us a compression height of the RL piston at 30mm to make it zero deck clearance. working off this known 11:1 compression and zero deck clearance gives us a CC volume of 58cc, which is supported by another source ive found.

Using J36 specs:
deck height= 235mm
rod length on j37= 157.02mm
crank throw on j37= 96/2= 48mm

using the 30mm compression height of the RL piston gives us a total deck clearance of -.02mm (235-30-48-157.02). using these numbers along with the same 58cc CC volume spits out a CR of 11.3:1.

if the RL piston didn't have a 30 mm compression height it would be one of the only j series without a zero deck clearance spec AND although i didn't measure the exact deck clearance before i installed the heads (wish i would have) i can tell you it had to be damn close to zero on my J36. (supporting the math of -.02mm which looks damn near flat w the naked eye).

if one were using a piston with a confirmed compression height of 30mm and a dome on top of that (TL/CL-S pistons) it would lower the CC volume further which would RAISE the static compression past my calc on the RL pistons of 11.3

Ive seen ppl say "CL-S pistons for 10.5:1 and RL for 11:1" on this build and i just dont find that to be true. from what ive found RL pistons produce LOWER compression on this build and CL-S pistons produce HIGHER compression.

the only real unknown factor of this whole thing is CC vol with compressed factory head gasket. but again from my research it comes out to 58cc total. and in all honesty after decking the heads and block surfaces if anything it would be less than 58cc, again raising compression.

just putting this out there food for thought. and if anyone has concrete info on the compression height of the RL piston please chime in.
interesting and good info. NVA_AV6, Bobbylaneracing or Gerzand would be the ones to know the answer
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Old August 24th, 2016, 03:51 PM   #166
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Paul mentioned in another thread that the compression height of the rl piston was less than 30mm to retain the 11:1 compression on the j37 build, but honestly I just don't see that being the case. If it were there would be a larger deck clearance making the CC volume larger, which would also mean Honda would need to lower the cc vol of the rl head to retain stock 11:1 on the j35a8 rl.

Maybe he will chime in. I'm curious.
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Old August 24th, 2016, 04:16 PM   #167
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Archiving via quote.

So uh... given the compression ratio, want to go ahead and send back that manifold? Been working on something for w/m injection on very small cc on either a stealth manifold build or stealth spacer.
Lol nah...but I have a j32a3 mani I could let go super cheap...along with runners which you always crave haha
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Old August 25th, 2016, 03:00 PM   #168
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Lol nah...but I have a j32a3 mani I could let go super cheap...along with runners which you always crave haha
Runners, well shoot me a text, I always need more.
Mani, I think I have 1-2 of each, mag 68mm, custom project j37 mag, non-butterfly style, and drop side style (j30a1/j32a2)

So out of curiosity, has nobody within our data pool cc'd stock heads? Stock cylinders and true compression? I know the pieces are traditionally cc'd separately but I have to imagine somebody has a tool that can go in a spark plug slot and detect when fluid has reached it. Rest of it is just a buret with fluid being slowly dripped and some division.
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Old August 25th, 2016, 04:36 PM   #169
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eric nelson from the 9g accord FB page used this method TODAY lol. he came up with 52cc on stock 9g heads. as far as ours are concerned i dont think so. there have been a few attempts using J32a3 heads that have come out to be 54-54.5cc.

add the head gasket volume 3.8cc and you come out pretty close to 58cc. using this website: Combustion chamber volume calculator we plug in all the known values for the 05 RL and it will calculate CC vol for you at 58cc with zero deck clearance.

also on my build i need to factor in .16cc per thousandth taken off the block and head surfaces. all these things point to a higher than 11:1 compression ratio. for my build its looking like btw 11.3 and 11.7 depending on the CC volume used.
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Old August 25th, 2016, 05:19 PM   #170
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I hope you have 93 oct where you live
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Old August 25th, 2016, 07:54 PM   #171
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I do lol
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Old August 28th, 2016, 08:55 AM   #172
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Build looking good
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Old August 29th, 2016, 07:20 AM   #173
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Like the attention to detail with this build.

With such an extensive project, perfectly understand wanting everything to look/run perfectly.
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Old August 29th, 2016, 12:39 PM   #174
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Like the attention to detail with this build.

With such an extensive project, perfectly understand wanting everything to look/run perfectly.
Thank you. Being my first build I kinda had no choice but to stress over every detail. I want it to be right. Swap is set for the end of October. Hopefully that still leaves enough time for Dom to give me some tunes before the weather turns to ****.

It's either going to run strong or blow up, fingers crossed. Still need input on break in procedure. Consensus seems to be higher rpm vacuum decel in gear to seat the rings right away, but I'm interested if anyone wants to share their methods, seems like a lot of subjective info out there.
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Old August 29th, 2016, 05:14 PM   #175
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The J36...... post #107 Paul's break in procedure. I did this and haven't had any issues at all

My breakin procedure....

Start and run the engine at idle for a couple mins, then vary RPMs from idle to 2K not letting it remeain at the same RPMs for more than 1 min, do this until the engine gets to normal op temp and the fans cycle on and off twice. Stop the engine and change the oil and filter (check both oil and filter for metal). Drive can for first 500 miles npot going beyond 1/2 throttle, change oil and inspect for any leaks, check old oil and filter for metal. From 500 to 2.5K miles gradually increase the amount of max throttle until 2.5K miles can go wot, change oil and start normal running and 3K oil changes. Only use regular dino oil for first 2.5K miles.
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Old August 31st, 2016, 06:14 AM   #176
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Thank you! I actually did come across this in my research and was going to use this method unless anyone else had anything to add to it. I see it says use regular conventional oil...what weight did you go with?
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Old August 31st, 2016, 11:44 AM   #177
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Thank you! I actually did come across this in my research and was going to use this method unless anyone else had anything to add to it. I see it says use regular conventional oil...what weight did you go with?
I've been using 10/30 castrol since breakin. It's all I use
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Old September 1st, 2016, 06:03 AM   #178
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My breakin was similar to Simis, except my first oil change was after driving 500 miles home after the build. Next was after 1000miles. Both times checking for metal shavings. I also have been using conventional Castrol 10w30 from day 1. About 25k miles now.
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Old September 1st, 2016, 12:48 PM   #179
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Late to this thread but subscribed to see how it goes. If you're pulling parts and double checking everything as much as you are, you're doing something right

Did the following motor break in for my ls1 on my supercharged corvette, I went overboard with the oil changes. But granted it was my first motor build I figured I would rather be overly cautious. Did the first 3 oil changes using an engine break in oil. Then switched to conventional oil and at 2k I switched back to synthetic. Changed the oil filter and oil right after starting the car up for the first time and letting it get to running temp, then at 50, 100, 150, 200 miles and cutting open the filter at each interval and inspecting for shavings in addition to measuring how much oil that came out. Then at 500 miles, got retuned and change oil again after going to the dyno and then waited 500 miles before the next, then 1000 and back up to 2000 where I normally used to change my oil.

During the first 500 miles I took my car to redline 10 times by being in very light partial throttle in 1st gear to keep boost/engine load down to seat rings. If I could do it again, I likely would have only replaced the oil filter at each of my change intervals and replaced all the oil every other interval till 500 miles. Then gone back to doing full oil changes. Knock on wood, motor doesnít consume any oil and nothing of note has been in the filter. If you donít have an oil filter cutting tool I recommend picking one up. Good luck.
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Old September 1st, 2016, 06:16 PM   #180
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thanks for your input tommy, it sounds as though these r all very similar to my plan. given all the honda manual states is

"When any crankshaft or connecting rod bearing is replaced, after
assembly it is necessary to run the engine at idling speed until it reaches normal operating temperature, then continue to run it for about 15 minutes." thats not much to go off of.

I was planning to use some good oil filters (maybe amsoil) along with a magnetic drain plug to catch steel from the sleeves suspended in the oil as the rings seat, will it help? who knows...but it shouldnt hurt.

put a smog tune on the j30 today, plan is to pass it that way tomm then have 2+ years till i need to worry about smog on the new engine.
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