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Old September 7th, 2016, 02:19 PM   #181
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I have a magnetic drain plug as well. When my lifters and cam initially got chewed up, seeing all the shavings on it made it obvious followed by cutting open the oil filter and seeing all the shavings in that. When assembling the motor, I lathered every internal engine component in assembly lube.

Also for the first startup I pulled the fuel pump fuse and disconnected the two harnesses for each side of the engine going to their respective 4 coil packs to eliminate spark as well. I did 2 cranks at 15 seconds to try and prime oil, however when using my mechanical oil gauge it didn't read any pressure from the OPS locations at the top of the heads. I think it primed the oil a little bit, just not enough to register at the top of the heads. Then the first startup took about 15 seconds of cranking with everything plugged back in and it was time to inspect for leaks.
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Old September 7th, 2016, 05:53 PM   #182
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I have a magnetic drain plug as well. When my lifters and cam initially got chewed up, seeing all the shavings on it made it obvious followed by cutting open the oil filter and seeing all the shavings in that. When assembling the motor, I lathered every internal engine component in assembly lube.
how did your cam/lifters get chewed up?

did you pull the plugs in an effort to reduce the workload of the starter and maybe prime the engine with oil better? i was thinking it might help
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Old September 10th, 2016, 08:03 PM   #183
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A couple of notes on valves to maybe help a future search:

I adjusted the valves to perfect spec on the bench. After torquing down the heads to the block the Valve lash changed. Not a ton but double check it after torquing the heads down.

Also...after readjusting them post head install I torqued all the set nuts to specified tq and it changed them again. Not by much but enough. It seems the set nuts influence the adjustment screws some.

It's impossible to tq the nuts to spec while holding the adjustment screw in place so I just made the nuts "about 14 ft lbs" because the lash spec is more important than the set nut spec anyway.
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Old September 13th, 2016, 12:39 PM   #184
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how did your cam/lifters get chewed up?

did you pull the plugs in an effort to reduce the workload of the starter and maybe prime the engine with oil better? i was thinking it might help
Stock LS1 lifters, valve spring, and oil pumps are the weak links on the LS1. My predicament is a bit of a long story, I should have been able to just replace lifters, cam and oil pump but I discovered on tear down my block was cracked due to the previous owner having a shop install heads and not cleaning out the bolt holes before torqueing down. At that point I decided to replace the block, bearings, rings and various other preventative maintenance in addition to cam, oil pump and lifters.

I did not pull plugs for oil priming. Just made sure the motor couldn't get fuel or spark, lathered every internal component with assembly lube and did the two primes. Some guys made their own oil priming tool, I didn't.

Really keep an eye on your oil pressure over the first 100 miles, record what psi it is at, at cold and warm temps. If your bearing tolerances are incorrect it will normally be obvious in a loss of oil pressure at those intervals within that first 100 miles or so.
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Old September 18th, 2016, 10:03 PM   #185
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Im working on a similar setup for my Accord and have a few questions. Im going to start a new thread if anyone can help me. I dont want to clutter this build with my questions haha
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Old September 19th, 2016, 08:10 PM   #186
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a little off topic info on echeck and hondata:

my car passed today with relative ease and i learned a few things. in OHIO (but i think its nationwide) for vehicles 01 and newer you can still pass with one readiness monitor "incomplete" and no DTC stored. (this was my case as my EGR readiness monitor would not reset despite following procedure and aprox 500 miles).

Secondly, despite entering my vehicles VIN into the TL ECU when i did the hondata install, while doing the test i still got a flag that said "vehicle VIN and ECU VIN do not match, need technician to check vehicle VIN and enter PIN to proceed". I had a tech come out who pretty much didnt give a **** and i explained i had to replace the ECU with another from a junkyard vehicle to solve a problem i was having, he wasnt interested in hearing any more lol.
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Old September 19th, 2016, 08:18 PM   #187
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a little off topic info on echeck and hondata:

my car passed today with relative ease and i learned a few things. in OHIO (but i think its nationwide) for vehicles 01 and newer you can still pass with one readiness monitor "incomplete" and no DTC stored. (this was my case as my EGR readiness monitor would not reset despite following procedure and aprox 500 miles).

Secondly, despite entering my vehicles VIN into the TL ECU when i did the hondata install, while doing the test i still got a flag that said "vehicle VIN and ECU VIN do not match, need technician to check vehicle VIN and enter PIN to proceed". I had a tech come out who pretty much didnt give a **** and i explained i had to replace the ECU with another from a junkyard vehicle to solve a problem i was having, he wasnt interested in hearing any more lol.
do you know what vinn was showing up? Was it the old TL vinn?
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Old September 19th, 2016, 08:37 PM   #188
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It would not show me the vin it was reading off the ECU, however in hondata under "OBDII diagnostics" it shows my correct VIN. however it also shows a part number and serial number which are still TL numbers, that mite have something to do with it but i have no idea.
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Old September 19th, 2016, 09:02 PM   #189
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yeah you can't hide the part numbers since it RDA and the accord is RCA
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Old September 25th, 2016, 08:55 AM   #190
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so this came in the other day....but after reading through the shop manual, this install sounds like a real pain in the ass, is it really worth it?

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Old September 25th, 2016, 06:32 PM   #191
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Mine was, but again Paul has a press and a fixture. Without that i would've sourced a TL tranny for around the same price. Only downside is not knowing the history of a used tranny.
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Old September 25th, 2016, 06:54 PM   #192
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I thought of that but this was way cheaper than a whole trans. I guess I'm torn on it, I mean it's not like I track the car, the only time I'd actually benefit from it would be under occasional hard acceleration in low gear. If the j36 will spin the tires too much I may want it, but if I can get by without it I'd rather leave the trans intact.

To really do it right I'm gonna have to press new carrier bearings on and replace the outer races, spacers and shim on the trans and clutch cases, then bolt it together (probably multiple times) and use a jerryrigged tool to set the preload, and before I even get to that point I'll have to remove the main and counter shaft as a unit, and a bunch of other odds and ends, which I really don't know how hard that is to do, and there's no way to tell what shim I need until I measure the preload, at that point I make a guess, buy a $7 shim and wait days till it comes in and hope its right, all the while My daily is sitting in pieces and undriveable.
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Old September 25th, 2016, 07:01 PM   #193
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or you can buy all the shims. lol yeah it is a tough call. Same reason why I didn't do the LSD.
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Old September 26th, 2016, 04:40 AM   #194
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I thought of that but this was way cheaper than a whole trans. I guess I'm torn on it, I mean it's not like I track the car, the only time I'd actually benefit from it would be under occasional hard acceleration in low gear. If the j36 will spin the tires too much I may want it, but if I can get by without it I'd rather leave the trans intact.

To really do it right I'm gonna have to press new carrier bearings on and replace the outer races, spacers and shim on the trans and clutch cases, then bolt it together (probably multiple times) and use a jerryrigged tool to set the preload, and before I even get to that point I'll have to remove the main and counter shaft as a unit, and a bunch of other odds and ends, which I really don't know how hard that is to do, and there's no way to tell what shim I need until I measure the preload, at that point I make a guess, buy a $7 shim and wait days till it comes in and hope its right, all the while My daily is sitting in pieces and undriveable.

How much did you get this for? When I checked they were around $1k from Honda. Used 04-06 TL tranny were about the same cost. Some were less with higher miles. Maybe worth looking at.
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Old September 26th, 2016, 06:03 AM   #195
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or you can buy all the shims. lol yeah it is a tough call. Same reason why I didn't do the LSD.
Does anyone know the "standard" size shim? The manual eludes to 2.5mm being "standard" but I'm not sure if the wording is just misleading like it is in other places of the manual. If 2.5mm is standard I could prob just get by w buying a few sizes up and down from there. I also might get lucky and not need to change the shim size at all. But then I'd b using new bearings and old outer outer races, which I don't know how bad that is. I mite call some trans shops to see how much they would charge to replace the diff.

I got it for $550, and it looks super clean and unopened, dunno about the miles, but from what I know the diff itself doesn't go bad very often, occasionally the carrier bearings. All the trans I was able to find were $1400+ for decent mileage, and that's way too much.
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Old September 26th, 2016, 05:22 PM   #196
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Honestly if you ever want to put down big power (350+) which you are perfectly capable of doing with this build, I would definitely look into getting that LSD in there. With the amount of time spent on this build, getting the last bit of it nailed down to the ground won't be icing on the cake, it'll be the entire experience.
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Old September 27th, 2016, 09:08 AM   #197
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LSD is the key to enlightenment with this build, particularly given it's FWD. You would be robbing yourself on a lot of fun to be had without it. On my car I put down 730whp but couldn't get on it in 1st, 2nd, or the top of 3rd without traction loss for the first 2 years of ownership.

Switched to drag radials and never slip, kicking myself that I waited so long to focus on traction. When I had my 8th gen accord 6-6 I always wished I had put on LSD, probably would still have the car if I had done that mod.
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Old September 27th, 2016, 09:51 AM   #198
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Ok then, I think you are all saying what I know is true deep down anyway, lol I gotta get it in there. I guess I just needed convincing. Thanks!
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Old October 21st, 2016, 05:19 PM   #199
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so for anyone who didnt know the flywheel bolts from 04-06 are shorter than they are in the 07-08 models. see pics below.

i tried bolting my flywheel on the other day and still had head space using an 07-08 bolt. get the 04-06 bolts!!!

first two are 07-08 bolts, second two are 04-06 bolts:





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Old November 2nd, 2016, 11:04 AM   #200
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and so it begins...

flashed the ecu for 410cc injectors then accumulated a nice little pile of parts taken off.





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Old November 2nd, 2016, 11:55 AM   #201
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Good luck! Can't wait to see this all put together.
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Old November 2nd, 2016, 02:12 PM   #202
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Me too...getting pretty anxious, esp about splitting the trans and installing the LSD. Should take at least a week start to finish, mainly bc I need to order a shim for the diff and I won't know what size I need till it's all torn apart, unless I get lucky and the current shim is nuts on.
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Old November 4th, 2016, 10:49 PM   #203
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That engine is dirty as hell haha.
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Old November 6th, 2016, 08:19 AM   #204
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progress:

motor mounts were in good shape but the bolts were a ***** to remove







all parts swapped to j36




bye bye open diff, hello LSD!!!


trans bolted on




found this inside the front HFPC...not excited


preped subframe/painted w POR15, then entire engine compt coated w fluid film. hopefully finishing up and turning it over soon!
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Old November 9th, 2016, 07:32 AM   #205
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Looks GREAT, MAN! GOOD WORK! Feels Great to do it on your own, right?

how difficult was it to install the lsd?
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Old November 9th, 2016, 08:09 AM   #206
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note to self. Do not put di-electric grease on to connectors and pin ;p.

Also I am interested in your LSD install how did you measure what you need for the shim?
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Old November 9th, 2016, 06:51 PM   #207
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it does feel good to get it done on my own, im currently still dealing w a few problems, a cyl 1 misfire that i think was due to the rdx pigtail coming apart, i have more on the way.

I brought in some outside help for the LSD. my buddy built a J36 for an 89 accord (i think) that he races in the 24 hours of lemons. he is a fulltime mechanic and very familiar with the trans. in a nutshell we measured the preload of the open diff bc we knew it had no problems, then split the trans installed the new races and used the existing shim (2.50mm) then oiled up the diff and bolted the case halves together to measure the LSD preload. we used a high speed iphone vid to slow down the action and more accurately read the breakaway tq. the open diff was about 18 lbs/in and the manual called for 30-40. the LSD was btw 30-35 lbs/in with the 2.50mm shim which was within the specified 30-40 lbs/in called for in the TL manual, we were happy enough w that so we sealed her up.

good news is i have no leaks and im ironing out the misfire hopefully tomm, bad news is w/ the new flywheel,pp,clutch disk and TOB im getting a strange condition where the throwout bearing isnt fully separating from the pp fingers with my foot off the clutch. i know this is the case bc if i reach down and grab the tob fork and push it so the tob is forced away from the pp the noise stops. i only need to move it a couple mm before it clears the fingers and the noise stops. the pp seems to be making just enough contact to "scrape" on the bearing without spinning the bearing. if i press the clutch just slightly to give the tob more pressure on the pp the noise stops (bc the bearing starts spinning instead of scraping). im wondering if i need a simple clutch pedal adjustment or maybe something else.

im certain i installed the LuK parts correctly, including the tob. all fingers were equal after torquing everything to spec. i reused my tob fork spring (dunno if that could b the problem or not). i adjusted the pp on my bench to fully retract the self adjusting mechanism before bolting it on, and im wondering if retracting this mechanism too far has raised the fingers slightly more than they are meant to be, causing my problem.

i left the clutch hydraulics completely sealed and just folded them out of the way during the swap so there should be no need for a bleed (it was functioning without a problem before the swap).

I haven't actually driven the vehicle on the street yet. im not sure if the self adjusting mechanism needs to be driven to adjust or if it is suppose to adjust just by pressing the clutch pedal a few times (which ive done). the trans seems to engage each gear easily and smoothly. i really dont want to pull the engine again so im looking at my options. do any of you guys have any input on the issue? does the pedal need adjustment after a new clutch is installed? the manual doesnt mention it.
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Old November 11th, 2016, 04:10 PM   #208
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UPDATE:

got the misfire sorted out with some clever temporary wiring, new injector wiring harness on the way. PCD on the way, HFPC will be going back before they totally blow out. squealing noise resolved itself within first 3 miles of first drive. i think the self adjusting mechanism just had to be driven a bit to find its correct setting. this was a huge relief bc i did not want to pull the motor again, really glad i gave it a shot. no leaks, no smoke, no knocks, sounds good, runs smooth. changed my oil a few times and didnt see much in the way of shavings in there, a few very small ferrous particles, but the oil filters looked clean inside after i cut them open. so at this point all i need is some logging time for dom, the PCD and a compression test in 100 miles or so. some pics for attention. DRIVING HOODLESS RULES!!









MY NEW FAVORITE
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Old November 16th, 2016, 07:37 PM   #209
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Getting a few knocks while tuning, all have been from the front bank of cyl (456). Anyone know if a damaged hfpc could cause this? The pic in my previous post above shows the damage.
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Old November 17th, 2016, 07:20 AM   #210
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Dom should be able to sort that out for you. It very well could be some excess heat from that damaged Cat. How are your ECT and IAT?
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