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Old March 4th, 2016, 06:30 PM   #1
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J36 build

Gearing up for my first engine build, the j36. This will be my progress/HELP ME! thread. Ive done easily 24 man hours of research on the build (not much i know but its a start), including pouring over the shop manuals for block/head assembly, and countless threads on here and azine.

I built a home made spec sheet to blueprint all the tolerances. I am at the point where im ready to tear down the J32a3 to send to the machine shop for hone/cleaning/decking/measurements. so far i have determined which main/rod bearing i need.

Crank Main Journals:
3123 pulley to fly

Block Letters:
BBCB Pulley to fly

Crank Rod Journals:
DCCDBD pulley to fly

Rod Markings:
333333

Which makes the Main Bearings:
Main 1: B3 yel/yel
Main 2: B1 pink/pink
Main 3: C2 yel/yel
Main 4: B3 yel/yel

And the rod Bearings:
#1: D3 grn/brn
#2: C3 grn/grn
#3: C3 grn/grn
#4: D3 grn/brn
#5: B3 yel/grn
#6: D3 grn/brn

here is my parts list (excluding crank and rods, bought them separate). please let me know if im leaving anything out.









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Last edited by 07J30; March 4th, 2016 at 06:46 PM.. Reason: photobucket blows
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Old March 5th, 2016, 02:48 PM   #2
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I will also be replacing the clutch disc, PP, flywheel, and release bearing while I'm at it.

Still undecided what to do w heads. Would a used set of TLS cams be okay to throw in? Or should I buy new?

Honda calls for multiple types of honda bond depending on the application. It's confusing because there's conflicting info online and honda has changed the pn of the bond a couple times. Anyone know of a bond for all applications? I've heard permatex grey thrown around but have no expierence with it.
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Old March 5th, 2016, 03:54 PM   #3
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I will also be replacing the clutch disc, PP, flywheel, and release bearing while I'm at it.

Still undecided what to do w heads. Would a used set of TLS cams be okay to throw in? Or should I buy new?

Honda calls for multiple types of honda bond depending on the application. It's confusing because there's conflicting info online and honda has changed the pn of the bond a couple times. Anyone know of a bond for all applications? I've heard permatex grey thrown around but have no expierence with it.
Used should have little to no impact vs new, unless they got severely severely worn.
Although bisi's are always cool

Where does it call for honda bond? In most places permatex grey is perfectly fine, and similar to genuine hondabond but in a tube. Permatex black would be the one to use if you need something in an oily place like oh say the oil pan. Or if you just want something more like a gasket and less like glue. (grey is more like a glue gasket, black you can let dry for a little bit and make it nearer to a real gasket in a tube)

One recommendation I will make for using these is to get the aerosol cans. There are caulking cans and hand tubes available for less, but the stuff is THICK, and usually you're covering a large area, and need precision (otherwise a real gasket would be used) and fatigued hands don't make accurate lines.
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Old March 5th, 2016, 06:41 PM   #4
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The following locations all call for any of the following sealants:

honda bond pn 08717-0004 or 08718-0001 or 0003 or 0009 or 0012

Engine block end cover
Oil pump
Oil pan
Bearing cap side bolt threads (not called for but many engines including my current motor have seepage here and it annoys me)
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Old March 5th, 2016, 06:44 PM   #5
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get honda ultra flange 2. That what I used. Stuff is a ***** to get off though.
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Old March 5th, 2016, 07:00 PM   #6
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Not sure how soon your planning on dropping the motor in but if your interested I'll have a set of J35A8 RL heads available soon. Def help out that 3.6
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Old March 5th, 2016, 07:07 PM   #7
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I will also be replacing the clutch disc, PP, flywheel, and release bearing while I'm at it.

Still undecided what to do w heads. Would a used set of TLS cams be okay to throw in? Or should I buy new?

Honda calls for multiple types of honda bond depending on the application. It's confusing because there's conflicting info online and honda has changed the pn of the bond a couple times. Anyone know of a bond for all applications? I've heard permatex grey thrown around but have no expierence with it.
Never put used rotating components on different bearing journals, it can cause extreme wear and in the case of cams destroy the journals in the heads making the heads trash.

I have been using Permatex Ultra Grey for years with no issues.
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Old March 5th, 2016, 07:11 PM   #8
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Bearing cap side bolt threads (not called for but many engines including my current motor have seepage here and it annoys me)
Dont use silicone there, instead use good antiseize compound, heavy cots on both the washer and underside of the bolt head.
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Old March 5th, 2016, 09:16 PM   #9
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Ok great thanks guys, I know this may seem inconsequential...but what should I use for parts cleaner on the bearings/internals before final assembly. My plan was to use laquer thinner and a microfiber cloth to wipe the parts down, maybe some compressed air to blow them off.

Mite seem anal but I've been reading how important it is to keep things clean w such tight tolerances. What do you guys think?
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Old March 6th, 2016, 01:33 AM   #10
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Ok great thanks guys, I know this may seem inconsequential...but what should I use for parts cleaner on the bearings/internals before final assembly. My plan was to use laquer thinner and a microfiber cloth to wipe the parts down, maybe some compressed air to blow them off.

Mite seem anal but I've been reading how important it is to keep things clean w such tight tolerances. What do you guys think?
Kind of. If you want to do it proper, yes. Lots of people do it without cleaning it analy though.

I would however invest in a can of chemtool, just dip the bolts in there for a few minutes, and blast it with some air. That generally will take care of anything that isn't a hard particulate.

Chemtool>laquer thinner. Thinner won't work on everything that is car as quickly as chemtool will.
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Old March 6th, 2016, 05:23 AM   #11
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Ok great thanks guys, I know this may seem inconsequential...but what should I use for parts cleaner on the bearings/internals before final assembly. My plan was to use laquer thinner and a microfiber cloth to wipe the parts down, maybe some compressed air to blow them off.

Mite seem anal but I've been reading how important it is to keep things clean w such tight tolerances. What do you guys think?
Brake parts cleaner, it does not leave a residue like other cleaners. I Also use the blue scott rags in a box......
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Old March 6th, 2016, 12:14 PM   #12
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yay another build thread. I may go J36 in the future too so provide many pics . I have heard great things about hondabond. Even the GM eaton guys recommend using it to seal the blower.
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Old March 6th, 2016, 05:50 PM   #13
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I will be updating the thread with as many pics as I have patience for...if we had a better option for uploading pics tha build (and the community in general) would be a lot better off.
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Old March 6th, 2016, 06:29 PM   #14
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I will be updating the thread with as many pics as I have patience for...if we had a better option for uploading pics tha build (and the community in general) would be a lot better off.
Photobucket accounts allow en masse linking.
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Old March 6th, 2016, 06:47 PM   #15
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I prefer imgur.
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Old March 7th, 2016, 07:11 AM   #16
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The forum picture attachment is working now as well but the two options listed above are the best.
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Old March 8th, 2016, 08:35 PM   #17
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Deconstruction tommorrow







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Old March 9th, 2016, 03:11 PM   #18
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Teardown went well...until I had to get the crank bolt out. Rented the "special tool" but since the motor was on my bench and not bolted into a car I had difficulty tying the engine down so I could apply force without flipping the engine on the bench. Got a buddy with an ass kicking impact I'm gonna use tomorrow. Pics will b ups later, mostly pics of electrical components/locations for me to reference on reassembly, nothing exciting....yet!
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Old March 9th, 2016, 04:07 PM   #19
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Anyone know the tq spec for the crank bolt??? My buddy needs to know to select the rite gun. He's got impacts up to 2.5 in drive.
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Old March 9th, 2016, 10:59 PM   #20
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Anyone know the tq spec for the crank bolt??? My buddy needs to know to select the rite gun. He's got impacts up to 2.5 in drive.
The crank pulley bolt?

It was something ridiculous like 140 ft-lbs.

I just use the same setting that puts tires on, since thats around 100 ft lbs. Usually is pretty well stuck on at that point.
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Old March 10th, 2016, 05:57 AM   #21
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Getting it off is a different ball game, I have a 3/4" drive gun rated by SnapOn for 1200ftlbs reverse and sometimes that has problems getting it off. The bolt tightens as the engine turns.
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Old March 10th, 2016, 12:03 PM   #22
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when I had my build this was the part that stopped me for a day lol. Had to rent a 50mm socket that adapts to a 1/2 wrench to hold crank pulley in place while its leaning up on the ground with a long cheater bar, then take another enormous wrench with 1000 cheater bars with the socket that fits on the crank pulley bolt and PULLLLLLLL..SNAP!

This is the tool:

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Old March 10th, 2016, 04:21 PM   #23
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Got it handled today with the above tool. FYI Orileys was the only place I could Find to rent one. Turned the motor on its side so it wouldn't flip and wedged the tool against the pallet. Long cheater bar got it off, I'm sure soaking it in pb overnight helped too.

Anyone see a problem with reusing this bolt?
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Old March 11th, 2016, 05:11 AM   #24
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Anyone see a problem with reusing this bolt?
Nope, as long as the threads are clean and there is no sign of stretch.
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Old March 14th, 2016, 07:58 PM   #25
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found this while i was researching what heads I want. look under "crankshaft" section. specifically "The forged crankshaft of the RL is similar to that of the MDX, but with revised counterweights to accommodate the weight of higher compression pistons."

The Temple of VTEC - Honda and Acura Enthusiasts Online - Articles - 2005 RL: Engine

will this effect the build at all? considering im using RL pistons with an MDX crank that hasnt been "revised".
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Old March 15th, 2016, 05:37 AM   #26
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found this while i was researching what heads I want. look under "crankshaft" section. specifically "The forged crankshaft of the RL is similar to that of the MDX, but with revised counterweights to accommodate the weight of higher compression pistons."

The Temple of VTEC - Honda and Acura Enthusiasts Online - Articles - 2005 RL: Engine

will this effect the build at all? considering im using RL pistons with an MDX crank that hasnt been "revised".
Look at the years and compression ratios discussed, it is all based on the 05 3.5L engines.
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Old March 15th, 2016, 05:16 PM   #27
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ok so part one of my teardown is unavailable bc the digital camera i dedicated to the project is archaic and wont upload to my computer. but here is part two. end result was a bare block. ready for machine shop.

the engine was super clean inside, cylinders still had most of their cross hatching intact.



















heres one of my new crank, showing what I assume was damage from shipping. (I noticed a break in the side of the box when it arrived). will this effect the main seal? its very minor but able to feel w fingernail.

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Old March 16th, 2016, 05:52 AM   #28
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I dont see any "damage" but if you are concerned about the area where the seal rides you can clean it up with 2000 grit sandpaper.
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Old March 16th, 2016, 10:51 AM   #29
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Ok will do thanks paul. If I'm not useless on Friday from a pattis day hangover, block will be heading to the machine shop for a pressure test, jet wash, honing and some measurements of the cylinder bores and main bearing bores.
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Old March 16th, 2016, 12:48 PM   #30
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look at you putting work in!
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