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Old January 15th, 2014, 02:05 PM   #511
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anyone no where i can get a 06-07 coupe rear lip?
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Old January 15th, 2014, 06:13 PM   #512
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It's called a Trunk Lid Insulator Kit but I'm only seeing them available for 8th gens (84630-TA0-KIT) on different Honda parts websites. It has probably been discontinued for the 7th gens.
Thanks for looking. I'll find it somewhere
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Old January 17th, 2014, 01:10 PM   #513
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It's called a Trunk Lid Insulator Kit but I'm only seeing them available for 8th gens (84630-TA0-KIT) on different Honda parts websites. It has probably been discontinued for the 7th gens.
It is not discontinued, I bought one just recently.

I can get you the part number (graphite grey) color...

If you take a look at Part sites, look up the trunk but make sure you set the car for 2007 EXL V6, whatever top model.
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Old January 17th, 2014, 01:11 PM   #514
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84630-sdb-a30za
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Old January 17th, 2014, 01:46 PM   #515
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Good man!
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Old January 18th, 2014, 10:10 AM   #516
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Got a B1 code and 15% on the oil when I start the car today. What kind of service does it required?
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Old January 19th, 2014, 01:30 AM   #517
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It's in your owners manual, under maintenance schedule. It includes oil change, tire rotation and inspection of certain components.
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Old January 19th, 2014, 07:54 PM   #518
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do i get a replica rear lip or keep holding out for a oem one :I its also stopping me from redoing my exhuast
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Old January 19th, 2014, 10:50 PM   #519
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Keep in mind what I posted was a Sedan only
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Old February 3rd, 2014, 07:41 PM   #520
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does anyone know an independent dealer that specify in Honda/Acura within Miami area? My car needs lower compliance bushing replaced, power steering fluid flush, and alignment done. Largo Honda quoted $450+ for those services.
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Old February 3rd, 2014, 08:03 PM   #521
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1.) Why not buy the complete lower control arm and install it yourself ? They are very reasonable in price, and easy to install, seriously. It is much easier and more affordable then having the bushings pressed out. Try RockAuto.com They have some of the best priced after market parts for our cars.

2.) Did you get the recall done for the PS hose ? If not, go to a dealer and get them to replace it for free. They will also flush and refill it.

3.) Alignment....go to any tire shop.
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Old February 4th, 2014, 11:02 AM   #522
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Just wondering a few general things, I have had replica fogs sitting around for 2 years for my coupe 6-6 and I'm wondering how much it work cost a shop to install? Or should I try my self? On second note does 300+$ sound to spendy to install a front sway bar(not possible for me to do it myself) the shop told me they would need to drop the front sub frame (tl-s)sway bar. I already did the rear myself took 20 mins.
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Old February 4th, 2014, 12:52 PM   #523
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1.) Why not buy the complete lower control arm and install it yourself ? They are very reasonable in price, and easy to install, seriously. It is much easier and more affordable then having the bushings pressed out. Try RockAuto.com They have some of the best priced after market parts for our cars.

2.) Did you get the recall done for the PS hose ? If not, go to a dealer and get them to replace it for free. They will also flush and refill it.

3.) Alignment....go to any tire shop.
The recall was done last year, didn't know that they should flush and refill it afterwards. I'm still shaky about installing the LCA myself since it looks like I have to lift the car up, remove the tire to get access into the area (no time for me since engineering school takes most of my time).

Quote:
Originally Posted by 05accord6spd View Post
Just wondering a few general things, I have had replica fogs sitting around for 2 years for my coupe 6-6 and I'm wondering how much it work cost a shop to install? Or should I try my self? On second note does 300+$ sound to spendy to install a front sway bar(not possible for me to do it myself) the shop told me they would need to drop the front sub frame (tl-s)sway bar. I already did the rear myself took 20 mins.
I got my fogs install for $80 at a local shop down here. It involved some trimming to fit the fogs into the foglight area. You also have to aim them afterwards since they're replica, the aiming is way off.
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Old February 6th, 2014, 09:10 PM   #524
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I got a quick question guys..I have a 06 accord Lx 4dr I just purchased..and wondering what's the fitments on a 03-05 and 06-07 grill..are they interchangeable???

I'm looking to buy something like the mesh style grill
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Old February 7th, 2014, 05:33 AM   #525
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No they are not interchangeable. If you want a mesh grill, look up the grillcraft grill.
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Old February 24th, 2014, 01:26 PM   #526
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Has anyone with a short shifter ever noticed a sort of clicking type noise when shifting into gear? I just installed the short shifter yesterday and really only get the sound on 2-3 shifts and when taking it out of gear into neutral. There is no sound from 1-2, 3-4, or 4-5.

Edit: sounds kind of like how a gated shifter would sound.

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Old March 6th, 2014, 07:26 AM   #527
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what do you guys think about these ?

BI-xenon: Morimoto Mini D2S 3.0 - HID Projectors from The Retrofit Source

i kinda want to try them for my first retro cheap and different then the h1s everyone gets.
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Old March 6th, 2014, 04:47 PM   #528
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what do you guys think about these ?

BI-xenon: Morimoto Mini D2S 3.0 - HID Projectors from The Retrofit Source

i kinda want to try them for my first retro cheap and different then the h1s everyone gets.
Main difference is a larger bulb holder on the rear end of the projector (that accommodates the OEM D2S style bulbs) and a sloped cutoff as opposed to a step cutoff (found on the MH1). Installation requires minor dremeling of your 9006 bulb holder, however, still mounts in the same easy way (washers and locking ring) as the MH1.
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Old March 6th, 2014, 09:40 PM   #529
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i saw that after i reviewed it a bit the h1s are the best still and in my opinion the cutoff and output is better as well on the h1s.
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Old March 7th, 2014, 05:39 AM   #530
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I agree that they have done a very nice job vamping up the MH1's since the time I originally started retrofitting with the v4.0 and v4.1's - I'm still not sure if the 6.0's are suffering the well known stuck solenoid issue or if it's been redesigned/fixed, but that was one major downside to the earlier versions. No one wants to have to question if they're projectors are going to get stuck in HB mode, blinding all on-coming traffic. :-/

One thing to keep in mind, and this may become more important to you the more knowledge and experience you gain with retrofitting...but the MH1's are going to limit you to only sticking with aftermarket H1 bulbs. Don't get me wrong, Morimoto has come up with a wonderful conversion for such a small bulb type that was originally only designed for fog lamps. By going with the MD2S (which IMHO is the only reason why people do choose it over the MH1) is it opens you up to the unlimited choices of the OEM bulb world. For instance, the Osram D2S CBI 5,000K or the Philips 85122+ 4,300K - that have outstanding, hard-to-beat performance in terms of clarity, light dispersion, even spread, etc.

(I'm not saying one choice is wrong and one is right, at all, just trying to provide some more information before you make a choice)
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Old March 7th, 2014, 06:27 AM   #531
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the Philips 85122+ 4,300K
IMO this bulb gives the best output you'll find. I've used them in all my retros. They are expensive but as with all things in life, you get what you pay for.
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Old March 7th, 2014, 11:14 AM   #532
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thats some good info, your talking the mini ds2 correct? BI-xenon: Morimoto Mini D2S 3.0 - HID Projectors from The Retrofit Source still easy to install?





Quote:
Originally Posted by DreaminAccord View Post
I agree that they have done a very nice job vamping up the MH1's since the time I originally started retrofitting with the v4.0 and v4.1's - I'm still not sure if the 6.0's are suffering the well known stuck solenoid issue or if it's been redesigned/fixed, but that was one major downside to the earlier versions. No one wants to have to question if they're projectors are going to get stuck in HB mode, blinding all on-coming traffic. :-/

One thing to keep in mind, and this may become more important to you the more knowledge and experience you gain with retrofitting...but the MH1's are going to limit you to only sticking with aftermarket H1 bulbs. Don't get me wrong, Morimoto has come up with a wonderful conversion for such a small bulb type that was originally only designed for fog lamps. By going with the MD2S (which IMHO is the only reason why people do choose it over the MH1) is it opens you up to the unlimited choices of the OEM bulb world. For instance, the Osram D2S CBI 5,000K or the Philips 85122+ 4,300K - that have outstanding, hard-to-beat performance in terms of clarity, light dispersion, even spread, etc.

(I'm not saying one choice is wrong and one is right, at all, just trying to provide some more information before you make a choice)
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Old March 7th, 2014, 12:06 PM   #533
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Yessir, that's what I was referring to
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Old March 16th, 2014, 09:17 PM   #534
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Accord 2005 to Inspire Conversion

Can someone pls advise if Asian accord share the same chassis as United State?

As my trunk and tail light are different from yrs.

New member can't PM.....

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Old March 17th, 2014, 02:03 PM   #535
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Can someone pls advise if Asian accord share the same chassis as United State?

As my trunk and tail light are different from yrs.

New member can't PM.....
i moved your thread. pls post in right place. you can google what your chassis code is.
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Old March 18th, 2014, 06:43 PM   #536
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I have a questions for you guys, my A/C is always ON when i'm driving, i always put the heat at windshield and feet position and today i realise the compressor is always on and i'm sure a can desable it but how??

I google it and i found the procedure for 08+ or 8th gen civic...is it the same??

Thanks guys
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Old March 26th, 2014, 11:34 PM   #537
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Hey guys, first off i know this has been discussed offer and offer again but i cant seem to find an answer for my specific concern. I drive a 06 AV6 sedan lowered on tein s tech springs on stock shocks as well as j power rear adjustable camber kit. I just recently purchased a set of acura a spec wheels 2 are 18x8 with 235/45/18 and 2 are 18x8.5, with 245/50/18. I just test fitted them and i know the 18x8.5 will not fit with those tires in the rear but the 235/45/18 18x8 on the rear is just touching the fender if any extra weight in the car would be added it would rub. I'm seeking some advice what size tires should i get for the 18x8.5 which are going in the rear (obviously) since the 18x8 are rubbing (didnt get a chance to test fit the 18x8 in the front) so I'm hoping the 235/45/18 clear. Would 235/45/18 on the 18x8.5 clear after little added camber? Or should i get a different size tire, because i have a few extra tires laying around 235/45 (2) and 235/40 (1) thanks for all the help and sorry for the noob question
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Old March 27th, 2014, 06:34 AM   #538
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235/40/18 or 215/45/18 is what you should have on those wheels. Why they have a 45/50 sidewall is beyond me. What vehicle did these wheels come off of? There's no way they came off any Honda/ Acura sedan.
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Old March 27th, 2014, 09:50 AM   #539
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Far as i know they came off a 3rd gen TL. So the 235/45 will not fit correctly even with a little bit of negative camber (i dont like a whole lot of camber) just wondering because I would have to buy 2 tires over just one
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Old March 27th, 2014, 10:16 AM   #540
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What about running 235/40 on the 8.5 and 235/45 on the 8 would that be ideal or would that throw off the look other things?
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