Deuce415
October 23rd, 2003, 01:04 PM
I think this is a useful DIY to have here:
--- originally posted by Vestax on AV6.com ---
Installed an Alterstart 180a Alternator
After a few car audio competitions, I manage to kill the stock OEM Delphi alternator within 2 to 3 months. I figure if I’m gonna replace the stock alt, I better find a more powerful output one. I did some research on this board, and the general consensus for a cheap but better replacement was the Alterstart 180a Alternator. http://www.4alterstart.com The installation and removal of our 6th Gen V6 alternator was easier than I expected. I ended up getting the Haynes repair manual for our car, which was only $15 at a local Autozone. The booklet was sufficient and I don’t think $115 for the Helm’s manual would be any better unless I was doing some major engine work. The total processing time was probably at most, 3 hours. I imagine if I tackled it again, it would take me way less than that. However, there were a couple of minor problems I ran into. I did find myself short of some tools and I had to make some trips to the store to get them. There were just a couple of socket and wrenches that were missing from my set. Make sure you have a sufficient amount of tools before doing this. The other problem I ran into was the aftermarket Alterstart alternator pulley. It was smaller than our stock alt pulley and since our car has an automatic belt tensioner, it wasn’t possible to make adjustments to it. With the small pulley, my serpentine belt slipped every time I started my car. I think over time, the belt would wear out faster if I left it like that. I had to remove the alternator to fix this problem. I took both alts to a local shop and they exchanged the pulleys for like $5.
Below are the instructions on how to remove the alternator from a 98 V6 Accord. Installation is basically the reverse except you should upgrade (bigger awg) wires with a higher output alternator. There are basically 2 ways to remove the alternator, the easy way and the hard way. The hard way is the first section. The easier way is at the bottom. Keep in mind, I’m only a car audio installer, not a mechanic, so bare with me.
Removal Method 1 (Condenser Fan Removal)
1. Disconnect battery (negative first, then positive). Remember that when you do this, your stock radio will be reset and you will need to input the anit-theft code to use it again.
2. To make things easier, you can loosen the power steering fluid reservoir before you start. It’s just one mounting bolt that holds it. Disconnect straps, cables, and connectors around the area alternator area. Don’t worry if you miss one, because as you’re removing, you’ll disconnect them anyway. Be sure to remember what goes where.
3. Disconnect all the electrical connections to the condenser fan and any lock tabs associated with it. The condenser fan is the fan on your left side (passenger side) as you look into the engine bay from the front. There are basically 3 bolts that hold down this fan, 2 on top, and 1 at the bottom which is a ***** to get to but it’s doable. Carefully pull this fan out paying attention to all the connectors to it. There are cruise control cables that need to be loosen so that you can remove the fan.
4. The alternator has a serpentine belt to it. To loosen or remove it, you have to use a wrench to move the lever up, then slide the belt off.
5. Disconnect the alternator. There are 2 plugs. One is a connector and the other needs to be screwed off.
6. Removing the alternator. There are basically 2 bolts, one upper and one lower, both different sizes, that hold the alternator in. I suggest you remove them at the same time. If you unbolted one all the way, it makes it harder to remove the other one. Pull the alternator out. It’s a really tight area so be careful.
7. The installation is the reverse of all this. Remember, the pulleys should approximately be the same size as the OEM one or else, your belt would slip if it’s smaller.
The easier way is basically skipping the condenser fan removal and removing the alternator through the power steering fluid reservoir area. I was told this by Illusion but went ahead and did it the harder way first. The 2nd time I removed it, I did it this way but it’s just harder to get out because the area is very very tight.
The wires I upgraded were the ground wires, and I ran a new wire from the alternator to battery positive. You can use a 2 to 4 awg wire for this.
Overall, I think if you have little to some DIY skills, you can accomplish this job fairly easy. Just leave yourself some time if something goes wrong. I think covered most the basic areas and I’m sorry if I wasn’t detailed enough. Thanks to Illusion and Deuce for the tips. Feel free to comment.
--- originally posted by Vestax on AV6.com ---
Installed an Alterstart 180a Alternator
After a few car audio competitions, I manage to kill the stock OEM Delphi alternator within 2 to 3 months. I figure if I’m gonna replace the stock alt, I better find a more powerful output one. I did some research on this board, and the general consensus for a cheap but better replacement was the Alterstart 180a Alternator. http://www.4alterstart.com The installation and removal of our 6th Gen V6 alternator was easier than I expected. I ended up getting the Haynes repair manual for our car, which was only $15 at a local Autozone. The booklet was sufficient and I don’t think $115 for the Helm’s manual would be any better unless I was doing some major engine work. The total processing time was probably at most, 3 hours. I imagine if I tackled it again, it would take me way less than that. However, there were a couple of minor problems I ran into. I did find myself short of some tools and I had to make some trips to the store to get them. There were just a couple of socket and wrenches that were missing from my set. Make sure you have a sufficient amount of tools before doing this. The other problem I ran into was the aftermarket Alterstart alternator pulley. It was smaller than our stock alt pulley and since our car has an automatic belt tensioner, it wasn’t possible to make adjustments to it. With the small pulley, my serpentine belt slipped every time I started my car. I think over time, the belt would wear out faster if I left it like that. I had to remove the alternator to fix this problem. I took both alts to a local shop and they exchanged the pulleys for like $5.
Below are the instructions on how to remove the alternator from a 98 V6 Accord. Installation is basically the reverse except you should upgrade (bigger awg) wires with a higher output alternator. There are basically 2 ways to remove the alternator, the easy way and the hard way. The hard way is the first section. The easier way is at the bottom. Keep in mind, I’m only a car audio installer, not a mechanic, so bare with me.
Removal Method 1 (Condenser Fan Removal)
1. Disconnect battery (negative first, then positive). Remember that when you do this, your stock radio will be reset and you will need to input the anit-theft code to use it again.
2. To make things easier, you can loosen the power steering fluid reservoir before you start. It’s just one mounting bolt that holds it. Disconnect straps, cables, and connectors around the area alternator area. Don’t worry if you miss one, because as you’re removing, you’ll disconnect them anyway. Be sure to remember what goes where.
3. Disconnect all the electrical connections to the condenser fan and any lock tabs associated with it. The condenser fan is the fan on your left side (passenger side) as you look into the engine bay from the front. There are basically 3 bolts that hold down this fan, 2 on top, and 1 at the bottom which is a ***** to get to but it’s doable. Carefully pull this fan out paying attention to all the connectors to it. There are cruise control cables that need to be loosen so that you can remove the fan.
4. The alternator has a serpentine belt to it. To loosen or remove it, you have to use a wrench to move the lever up, then slide the belt off.
5. Disconnect the alternator. There are 2 plugs. One is a connector and the other needs to be screwed off.
6. Removing the alternator. There are basically 2 bolts, one upper and one lower, both different sizes, that hold the alternator in. I suggest you remove them at the same time. If you unbolted one all the way, it makes it harder to remove the other one. Pull the alternator out. It’s a really tight area so be careful.
7. The installation is the reverse of all this. Remember, the pulleys should approximately be the same size as the OEM one or else, your belt would slip if it’s smaller.
The easier way is basically skipping the condenser fan removal and removing the alternator through the power steering fluid reservoir area. I was told this by Illusion but went ahead and did it the harder way first. The 2nd time I removed it, I did it this way but it’s just harder to get out because the area is very very tight.
The wires I upgraded were the ground wires, and I ran a new wire from the alternator to battery positive. You can use a 2 to 4 awg wire for this.
Overall, I think if you have little to some DIY skills, you can accomplish this job fairly easy. Just leave yourself some time if something goes wrong. I think covered most the basic areas and I’m sorry if I wasn’t detailed enough. Thanks to Illusion and Deuce for the tips. Feel free to comment.