Powerslot rotor install

[bored&stroked]

I recently installed some powerslot rotors and ceramic pads on my moms 02 v6 sedan. I figured for anyone not comfortable with brake jobs yet, Id show how easy this can be.
First off the tools you'll need:

19mm open end wrench
breaker bar [not needed, but makes it much easier]
phillips head screwdriver
c-clamp
socket wrench
14mm and 17mm sockets
safty wire
19mm lug wrench

Start off by removing the wheel. The first thing your going to remove from the brakes is the caliper itself. Using the 14mm socket and the 19mm open end, remove the two bolts holding the caliper to the bracket

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Remove the caliper and hang from the suspension using the safty wire. The idea here is to not bend or stress the brake line attached to the caliper

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Remove the brake pads from the caliper bracket. Set the pads aside. Make note of the location of the shims attached to the pads.

Using the 17mm socket, remove the two bolts holding the bracket on.

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Now remove the two phillips head screws holding the brake rotor to the hub

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Install the new rotor. re-install the caliper bracket. Switch the shims from the old pads to the new pads. Make sure you use new pads with the new rotors. Place the pads in the bracket. Using the c-clamp, push the caliper piston back into the caliper. Then install the caliper.

[bored&stroked]

The finished product, with bright shiny glow from the work light behind me :D

[abram2001]

sticky the hell outta this laostradmous :smash:
thank you bored n stroked this is very informative, and perfectly written. A easy money saver now :) Thanks again.

[Blazin036]

usually a phillips head screw driver wont work to remove the set screw. you usually need to use a impact screw drive and a bottle of mapp gass to heat up the set screw

[Viper]

excellent install

[bored&stroked]

Originally posted by Blazin036 on May 23rd, 2003 at 10:38 PM

usually a phillips head screw driver wont work to remove the set screw. you usually need to use a impact screw drive and a bottle of mapp gass to heat up the set screw


Good point. They are extremly difficult to remove, and I almost stripped one of them. I ended up using the breaker bar with a perfectly sized phillips head to remove them.

[azn010]

where and how much did you get these rotors for?

how about the improvements? hows braking feel now? :p

[bored&stroked]

I purchased these rotors from a motorsports place in phoenix. They were $85 each I think? Braking at low speeds has not changed, at high speeds there is a improvment you can feel. Hardly touch the pedal above 60mph and these things haul you down quickly. I had a set on my 99 v6, and I put that car threw its paces. These rotors held up great :)

[Drag-On]

Originally posted by Blazin036 on May 23rd, 2003 at 09:38 PM

usually a phillips head screw driver wont work to remove the set screw. you usually need to use a impact screw drive and a bottle of mapp gass to heat up the set screw


What exactly is mapp gass?

[N.O. Accorderz]

to take off the screws i had to use an impact driver...that ***** was siezed on there

[bored&stroked]

Originally posted by Drag-On on May 26th, 2003 at 06:02 PM

What exactly is mapp gass?


Its like a hotter burning propane torch.

[unsure]

qdumb question bro,

are the Powerslots alot bigger in terms of size vs. the stock caliper?

[Sam Lin]

Stock size.

Sam

[ForceSHO]

I did this last year front & back and ran it for about 35k (http://www.cyforce.net/forcesho/html/garage/accord/brake-aem-r.html)

The disc brake screw you can get from majestic honda or any dealer for around 31 cents, i replaced all mine while i had the brakes off. I didn't notice any difference for my brake, even after a using the neuspeed stainless steel line. I had to switch back to stock brake after 1 year because i can't find a local shop to cut the slotted brakes.. so I got a set of ps and still looking for a place to cut them.. It's not bad, give it a nice look, and it's stock fit. Another good thing to do is buy new bleeder screw if your car has high mileage. I replaced everything at once.

22400 SCREW, FLAT (6X14) $0.31

[KFL]

Drag-On:Mapp Gas its in a bottle about 1/2liter used for small work heat up things, lossen bolts,nuts, its cheap about 3bucks then get the adapter that goes on it(30+) turn gas on and click instant torch, fire mmm yeah..I loosened a few stuck bolts with that a few times.

N.O. Accorderz:that varries I believe as most are very easy to remove, screwdriver no frills, also you don't really need the screws as they don't hold the rotor in place just even it out more. Lug nuts are what keep the rotor place and after time the rotors will become stuck on the hub with zero movement.

ForceSHO:try finding a import shop then ask them they should know you are right though larger chains pepboys,straus,etc. won't touch it some small shops either as they all know blanks and don't want responsibility if something goes wrong.

[bored&stroked]

Originally posted by KFL on June 4th, 2003 at 10:24 AM

Also you don't really need the screws as they don't hold the rotor in place just even it out more. Lug nuts are what keep the rotor place and after time the rotors will become stuck on the hub with zero movement.


I take it you've never done the brakes on these cars? The screws do need to be removed. They hold the rotor to the hub. The lugs are what provide the majority of the clamping force, but the screws are required :)

[J30A02]

Originally posted by bored&stroked on May 24th, 2003 at 07:41 PM

I purchased these rotors from a motorsports place in phoenix. They were $85 each I think? Braking at low speeds has not changed, at high speeds there is a improvment you can feel. Hardly touch the pedal above 60mph and these things haul you down quickly. I had a set on my 99 v6, and I put that car threw its paces. These rotors held up great :)

you're from pnix too! :eek:

[Sam Lin]

Yeah he is. Believe it or not, there actually ARE members here in AZ.

Sam

[bored&stroked]

So we all going to meet up somtime and cruise or what?

[ndelaude]

I just installed powerslots and hawk brake pads, thanks to your great "how to". I was ready to spend the money and have some wrench jockey do it, but I read your post and discovered how easy it could be. Great instructions. I was worried about the phillips head screw removal after reading all the horror stories about stripping and mapp gas. I took them off with no problem (perfectly fitted driver bit and a breaker bar). THanks a lot.

:D

[Accord123]

Can someone post up the torque spec for the screw and bolts??

[bored&stroked]

hehehe Ok here I go: torque specs are not important :hide:

Well at least not for these components. Just tighten them down to a good setting that wont come loose :) I only worry about torque specs with stuff like internal engine components etc.

[Accord123]

WHAT?????? :eek:
I'm sure the caliper need to torque to spec. And I'm pretty sure if the srew on rotor is not tighten properly, rotor could easily warp.

[bored&stroked]

Na, the rotor won't warp from the screws. The part that the screws clamp onto is pushed onto the backing plate, very sturdy. The part that warps is the part the pads ride on.

As for the caliper- the bolts just hold the thing to the bracket. AS long as they are tight they will be fine. I haven't torqued brake parts in over 5 years :D

Other parts, like wheel bearing nuts, suspension components, engine internals etc, those need to be torqued properly.

[ndelaude]

I'm about to do the install on the rears and I wanted to know if there were any special instructions regarding the parking break mechanism. I did the fronts a couple of weeks ago and had no problems, I just wanted to know what you did in the rear if you did anything different.

[bored&stroked]

Never tried the rears :)
The fronts are the only parts of the brakes on these cars that have problems in my exsperience.

[flytojungho]

Kinda late on the bandwagon but I got a question... When you push the piston back into normal position with the c-clamp. Don't you need to bleed the brake fluid? or is this not nessasary? I'm about to do aem big brake kit install but I need to know this.. if so, how do you bleed them? thanks

[bored&stroked]

No there is no need to bleed the brakes. All your doing is pushing the brake fluid back into the master cylinder, so no air is being let into the system. If you disconnect the brake lines for some reason, thats when you have to bleed them because by then air will be in the lines along with fluid and thats no good.

[flytojungho]

thanks

[J30A02]

i've heard of cases where air was accidently let into the line when pushing the piston back in. but it is only a rare case

[brakeboy]

The screws are there to hold the rotor in place while the car is going down the assembly line. Then the calipers and such are installed and of course finally the wheels. The lugs actually hold the whole thing together when it is finished.

Here is where the problems arise

1. The screw freezes and is difficult to remove. Many times it has to be drilled out. Some mech's just pry the old rotor off and break the screw. Nothing wrong with that but you have to get the remnants out of the way before the new parts go on. If a portion of the screw or any other foreign material gets between the rotor and hub then the rotor wil not seat against the hub. This leads to pulsing brakes and of course the rotors are thought to be warped.
So the important step is to insure that the hub is clean and free from any debris. I would scrape it with any kind of putty knife or what ever just to make sure nothing major is on it. Rust and dust is fine but thats about it.
The rest is pretty easy.....no reason to be afraid. Be glad you don't have a 90-97 accord. That is a whole different story

[Nittanys1]

Originally posted by brakeboy
Be glad you don't have a 90-97 accord. That is a whole different story

yeah no kidding...my girl needs hebrakes/rotors replaced and all im gonna be doing is the brakes...cuz the rotor is a impossible to get off

[sl33pyriceboi]

hi guys, im new to the board....and i understand everything but the part where u put bak the calipers i dont get... i mostly dont undstand the C-clam and y ur useing it or how ur useing it?

can someone plEASE explain that part or giv me a picture (draw it with microsoft paint if u have to) of how u use the c-clam on the calipers?

[Sketch o5]

i tried to take off those little set screws for the caliper, and one broke.....how do i get the rest of it out? and can i just buy thse screws at the locla hardware store, or should i get them from honda?

[xi0utlawstarix]

i tried to take off those little set screws for the caliper, and one broke.....how do i get the rest of it out? and can i just buy thse screws at the locla hardware store, or should i get them from honda?


did you try wd-40 on the screws first than try to take it out by impact screwdriver??

[xi0utlawstarix]

Anybody knows if the rotor screw is all the same for Honda and Acura models??

[99cfENVYv6]

bringing this thread back from the dead....

today i recieved power slot "bbk" rotors and i worked for about 40 minutes removing a stripped screw....my problem isnt the screws, i dont really care about those.
my problem is i cant get the rotor off...i tried just about anything i could think of, anyone have any suggestions??

[spectro]

You have to hit it with a hammer or something, that is the only thing left to do. BELIEVE ME, when i installed new rotors, that was my same problem too. If you arent going to use the old rotors, hit it from side to side for about 10-20 times, to loosen them up, after that, just start hitting them from the back.

[xi0utlawstarix]

i used 2 bolts, there should be 2 holes on the rotors. did you try doing that??