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#1 |
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Phat Member
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Caliper Maintenance
I have been searching without luck on a sticky or DIY for caliper maintence. If anyone know where one is located, please reply with a link. Otherwise, I will attempt to post the information, with pictures, once I figure out what I am doing.
I replaced by front brake pads last night and to my dismay, the lower slider on both calipers was seized. I am going to take the brakes apart again, but this time I am going to attempt a full caliper maintenance; I don't want to miss anything. |
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#2 |
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import tuner and rn
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i think once they seize , u have to get new ones , not 100% sure
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#4 |
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Drop Dead Gorgeous
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I guess a way you can save your caliper is by not using E-brake for no reason. I have an automatic (duh!) and when I put it in park, I used to use E-Brake as well. But after a while, I started to hear my brakes make this weird "ch ch" sound and I thought nothing of it. Then one day I drove around and stopped at a red light and asked, "WTF is that smell?" It was my rear driver side brake smoking so I went to my car shop and asked what was wrong. The caliper was locked and so the wheel did not move freely anymore. I had to change to a new caliper after that and so I learned my lesson. Unless you have a manual, don't use the E-Brake for parking... and automatics should only use it if they are parked at a crazy slope or whatever.
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#5 |
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Phat Member
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I had to have my rear calipers replaced as well, but I think I ruined them by drifting ... only because that is the only radical thing I did the day before they started to go bad. Perhaps the fronts are easier to fix, or I really messed up the rear ones? I have no idea. I'll let everyone know how I fix them, and what I used.
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#6 |
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Registered User
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Which part is seized up, is it #12?
If it’s #12 then you would need to pull it out of mounting bracket and remove all dirt and rust from pin and hole in mounting bracket. Once they thoroughly cleaned you would need to lubricate them with high temperature grease. Don’t use too much of grease or pin will be popping out. Then, you most likely need to replace dust boot. ![]() |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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you could do same thing to item #17 (other pin). item #9 (piston) doesn't really require maintenance, but you could spray WD-40 on groove to remove any loose particles. while you there check if there any rust on piston it self (not a groove).
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#9 |
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Shes like the wind
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found out by dealer that both my rear calipers are seized.
1. where can i get the caliper for a good price?? or should i just go through autozone, pepboys, etc. 2. should i just get the bare caliper, not the loaded one because i already have brembo blank and oem pad. what about semi-loaded? |
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#10 |
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Registered User
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all calipers are made OEM, companies just take the caliper and service it(change the parts and re-lube it) and then label it with their name.
loaded calipers come with the hardware kit and brake pads(cheap sometimes). Semi-loaded comes only with the hardware kit. You will need the hardware kit. |
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#11 | |
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Shes like the wind
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Quote:
so from this site, i would get the one with part #192068 (caliper with installation hardware). there are so many other choices http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductL...&categorycode= |
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#12 |
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Registered User
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well i just looked at the site. You can get the unloaded one since you can re-use the old hardware. It's totally up to you. Any of them is good. Just don't get the loaded one in your case. They will charge you core, so they would need your old ones back.
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