Since there is no DIY on retrofiting HIDs for the 7th gens on the internet, I thought I should start one. Retrofit is a time consuming and long process. I will keep updating this thread as I finish my retrofit.
Mods and Admin: please make this a sticky so it will be easier for me to update
If you have any questions or comments, please PM me or email me at shon.nv@gmail.com[/B]
Introduction to HID:
Most cars currently use halogen bulbs in their headlights. The new blue-ish headlights are using a different technology called High Intensity Discharge (HID). We normally see HID lamps in the form of mercury vapor and sodium vapor lights used as street lamps and as outdoor lighting for stadiums. These lamps are popular because they are efficient. In the case of sodium vapor, they are twice as efficient as normal fluorescent bulbs.
Mercury and sodium vapor lamps produce light using a technique similar to that used in fluorescent lamps. In fluorescent lamps a low-pressure mercury vapor produces lots of ultraviolet light that excites a phosphor coating the tube. In the case of mercury vapor lamps, it is a high-pressure gas, the distance between the electrodes is very short and the light is produced directly without the need for the phosphor.
In the case of HID headlights, the same high-pressure technology is used. The lamp is similar to a mercury vapor lamp. However, designers of the headlights had to solve one problem with normal mercury vapor lamps -- the fact that they have long start-up times. Xenon helps solve the start-up problem, as does a special controller. All of these tricks mean that these headlights are expensive now, but mass production should bring the cost down eventually. (source: howstuffworks.com)
Projectors:
There are different types of projectors used in retrofiting. It depends on your need, the size/shape of your headlights and $$. Here are picture of some of the most popular projectors used in retrofiting, thier cost and cutoff. As far as fitment most of the 2.5" diameter projectors will fit but the ones that I know will fit for sure are TSX projectors, S2000 projectors(with slight modification), Lexus IS300, BMW E46/Audi A4 and Cadillac Valeo(D1S).
A> TSX projectors (around $180/pair)
B> TL Bi-xenon(around $300/pair)
C> S2000 projectors(around 300/pair)
D> BMW E46/Audi A4 single beam(around $100/pair)
E> Mecedez E55 Bi-xenon(around $200/pair)
Sorry no cutoff pic but similar to TL projector
F> BMW 5 Series single beam(around $150/pair)
sorry no cutoff pic but similar to E46
G> Cadillac Valeo single beam(around $150/pair)
H> Lexus RX330 single beam adaptive xenon(around $200/pair)
I> Nissan 350Z(around $150/pair)
Not a very good projector for headlights becuase its reflector based(output is based on the beam from lense and headlight reflector) but can be used for foglights etc which I will be doing. Also it takes a D2R bulb.
Sorry not cutoff picture but trust me you dont want to see or use this projector.
Ballasts:
There are tons of ballast out there. From OEM to aftermarket. Please do some research before buying aftermarket ballasts. Here are some of the OEM ones that I saw and tested. Please note the the ballasts are not Polarized, means they will not work if the positive is connected to the negative cable. Most of the times are are direct fit on the car or harness but some vehicles have reverse polarity(NOT the 7 gens), I will post a procedure on that as well later on. You wont blow the ballast if you accidently conect the wrong polarity, If it doesnt work, try changing the polarity.
A> Mercedez E55 ballast
B> Lexus RX330 ballast(recomended becuase of the fitment)
C> BMW E46 ballast/ignitor
Bulbs:
Hid bulbs are of different types and color. There are 3 types
1> D2S(most common, seperate unit)
2> D2R
Dont have the picture but it usualy comes in 350Zs. The cuts in the base is slightly different than the D2S but it works with all ballasts.
3>D1S(Bulb is attached to the ignitor)
The only one I've see was in the Cadillac Valeo projector
The color can be determined by Kelvin numbers. Stock color on most cars is 4300K
Refer to the chart below for color tempreture
Although the shield of the projector can be modified to get better color but overall it depends on the color of the bulb.
Harness:
HID system is more brighter and more powerful than Halogen. The ballast suck alot of power at startup to maintain even output. Connecting the HID to your stock electrical system can be dangerous because Non-HID cars are not designed to take that load. A seperate wire harness is often used to avoid any problems. Most commonly used is from www.xenondepot.com. They come in different types depending on the vehicles connector type. 7th gen uses a 9006 base connector and harness. You can also make your own if you know it. Usualy cost around $50 for a set from the link below.
Shrouds:
Shrouds are basicaly to the enhance looks of the headlight and to cover the projector. There are different types of shrouds but they mainly depends of availability and personal taste.
Heatgun (recommended but can use the Oven as well)
Gloves
Flat head and philips screw drivers
Small flathead or knife for prying
Rachet with 10mm socket
1>
Here are the pictures of the headlight front and back
2>
Start heating up the edges at 800°. Dont heat it up too much and dont hold the gun too close. Heat it up evenly all around. You are not melting the plastic, just making it hot so it can be pryed out
3>
Pry out all the tabs but dont break them, gentyl lift them up.
4>
Take the flathead screwdriver and start prying out slowly. Start from this end not the other.
5>
Continue along the edges
6>
Keep heating up the edges with the heat gun and it will alot easier to pry. DO NOT try to rip it aparts, you will break the housing.
7>
After removing the clear lense, remove this screw to seperate the housing from the relfector and gently pull out the housing
8>
Use a knife or small flat-head to pry out the amber reflector
9>
Press on this tab gently to remove the turn signal shield and pull it out. Be careful dont pull it too hard.
10>
After seperating the reflector from the housing, store away the clear reflector to avoid scratches. Wrap it up in trash bags and put it somewhere away for now
11>
Back to the rest, heat up these tabs in the bottom and gently pry them out of the housing. DO NOT FORCE IT, it will break and you will have to buy another set of headlights.
12>
Use 10mm socket to unscrew this bolt. It wont come out side but will free up the reflector from the housing
13>
Mask the reflector and cut it like this with a dremel or a saw
Instead of using the S2K cause its a PITA, I went to TSX cause its alot easier than S2K. Cutoff of the stock (unmoded) projector
for the color mod insert 2 washers or nuts like shown. Try different washers till you get the color and cutoff you want.
The result from the color mod that I like, Just play with until you get the color you want.
Now use a 1" L-bracket and mount them like shown. Dont make the bolts too tight cause it might break the projector
This is how you will be mounting on the car. First before drilling any holes, just put the projector in the housing on the car and measure the distance between the Z patterns and make sure the projectors are equally distanced from the sides. Mark where the holes should be made and drill them. It will be easier to take the bumper off and align them on the car. Put 5 washer on one side and 2 on the other side to begin with like shown and add more later.
Put them on the car and align the beam accordingly. Add more washer to whichever side needs more. Dont worry if its too low or too high cause we can adjust the height from the housing later.
Here is a picture from 25 feet, the projectors are aligned but not leveled. At this time you have to worry about the cutoff being straight, the height can be adjusted from the headlights
This is how you will be mounting on the car. First before drilling any holes, just put the projector in the housing on the car and measure the distance between the Z patterns and make sure the projectors are equally distanced from the sides. Mark where the holes should be made and drill them. It will be easier to take the bumper off and align them on the car. Put 5 washer on one side and 2 on the other side to begin with like shown and add more later.
do you have any other tips/ guidelines for positioning the projector inside the reflector?
do you mark the reflector with reference marks so you know if it's positioned correctly? or is most of the positioning done when you put the housing on the car and test the whole setup?
here a little help after you cut the back off of the reflector and everything and have all teh hardware mount it back on the car and adjust teh beam and mark the hole
This post was shaping up to be one of the most informative I've ever read. I hope you'll continue it soon. Thanks for all the hard work you've done to this point.
oOoo... 2 girls wanting this DIY... joyce and christine. hmm maybe if we can get another one or a couple more females intrested i'll write one up ... kekeke...
im not a girl but i'll take off my shirt and take pics of my nipples if you write up a DIY!! i need it sooo bad ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
[rubs nipples through shirt] lol
im not a girl but i'll take off my shirt and take pics of my nipples if you write up a DIY!! i need it sooo bad ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
[rubs nipples through shirt] lol
what is difference between bi-xeon and regula. TSX and TL projectors
and what kinda projectors would i use for Hi-beam? could i use tsx projectors and remobe that cut off plate or relector(whatever it is)? or it has to be different kind of projectors?
The bi-xenon (TL) projectors have a motor and a movable shield. When in low beam mode, the shield is there to block the light, hence the beautiful cutoff. When in high beam mode, the shield moves away so the light and "escape" and light the area farther down the road.
BTW, I'm doing a TSX retro right now. I've just finished putting the projector into the reflector. I've only done one so far. Heh...my reflector looks like freakin' swiss cheese right now!! I was following the vertical lines when I made holes for the screws but I should've used the horizontal line near the bottom of the reflector because I've found out that the headlight is slanted...and according to Larry, the headlight is slanted about 3 degrees. So I've covered up the unnecessary holes the ghetto way...electrical tape and JB Weld!! LOL. First time mistakes!! Here's my progress so far:
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