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Old June 19th, 2004, 05:40 PM   #1
 
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ABS light on: Solution

Before replacing any component, try bleediing and refilling your abs module. I just did it and my abs light stayed off.
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Old June 21st, 2004, 11:43 AM   #2
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good job dude !!

I've been saying that for over a year now ...

by bleeding the brakes you are eliminating any pockets of air
and by flushing the 5 + year old fluid you are cleaning the brake lines !!

if you still have ABS light on after that, it's cause you have a problem with sensor, modulator, etc ...
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Old June 23rd, 2004, 08:24 PM   #3
 
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u did?
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Old June 24th, 2004, 07:42 AM   #4
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yeah :

http://www.v6performance.net/forums/...520#post309520

long time ago ...
it worked like a charm
hondas fluids are crappy after a while - very important to be flushed every 2- 3 years
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Old June 25th, 2004, 03:30 AM   #5
 
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My res was near empty when I checked it. Wonder where it went.

Did you do you tb bypass yet? I just saw your pm today so i'll get that pic for u.
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Old June 25th, 2004, 10:51 AM   #6
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no I haven't
had to fix my tire - blew out on me - damn michelins


picking up some AVS's
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Old June 25th, 2004, 10:14 PM   #7
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i should get my fluid flushed soon
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Old June 27th, 2004, 05:27 PM   #8
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speaking of the abs light, mine just came on yesterday. first i heard a humming noise that lasted for less than a minute and when it finally stopped, the abs light came on. guess ill be bleeding the abs module soon...
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Old June 28th, 2004, 04:19 PM   #9
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nevermind, i found the problem this morning... my car took a leak and left a puddle
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Old July 13th, 2004, 10:58 AM   #10
 
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What about SRS? Any solution to that? My SRS light is on... Thank You
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Old July 14th, 2004, 07:10 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unknownforever
What about SRS? Any solution to that? My SRS light is on... Thank You

Erasing the DTC memory
1) Turn ignition switch off
2) Connect the scs service connector to the MES connector. Do not use a jumper wire
3) Turn ignition switch to on
4) The SRS indicator light will come on for about 6 seconds, and then go off. Remove the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds after the light comes on
5) The SRS indicator will come on again. Reconnect the SCS service connector to the MES connector within 4 seconds after the light comes on.
6) When the SRS indicator light goes off, remove the SCS service connector from the MES connector within 4 seconds.
7) The SRS indicator light will blink 2 times indicating that the memory has been erased
8)Turn the ignition switch to off and wait for 10 seconds.
I know what your thinking. WTF is the MES connector? Good question. Its up under the steering wheel. Above and behind the scan tool connector (where you jumper it to get CEL codes)


accord 94-97 procedure
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Old July 17th, 2004, 12:25 PM   #12
 
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great job. The instructions look more time consuming than the actual procedure. Did mine in 10 sec but took 5 min of reading.
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Old October 12th, 2006, 08:33 AM   #13
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Hey My ABS light just went on.. I called honda and they said usually with our gen the light comes on because of low fluid in the ABS resivouar because of a leak.. well.. i dont wanna spend $81 to have the car hooked up and diagnosed if i just have to add fluid.. so.. my question is.. Where is the ABS resivouar? How do you add the fluid.. and most importantly.. what fluid goes in it? just Brake fluid? if so id be sure to get honda certified brake fluid for it.. Can someone help please thanks
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Old October 12th, 2006, 01:15 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thundagoose
Hey My ABS light just went on.. I called honda and they said usually with our gen the light comes on because of low fluid in the ABS resivouar because of a leak.. well.. i dont wanna spend $81 to have the car hooked up and diagnosed if i just have to add fluid.. so.. my question is.. Where is the ABS resivouar? How do you add the fluid.. and most importantly.. what fluid goes in it? just Brake fluid? if so id be sure to get honda certified brake fluid for it.. Can someone help please thanks
Ok, first off. Save your money, check the abs oil level
( abs reservior located in the left side of the engine bay - clear container with a greyish rubber cap - under the rubber cap, there will be a plastic cap as well. )

situation 1: If you are not missing any, then flush the ABS fluid ( do it at a garage - kinda messy ) and you might as well flush the tranny oil, engine oil, rad - flush, bleed out the brakes, and flush the power steering.

situation 2: If you cannot see anything in the top of the reservior, then pick up some DOT 3 at the nearest store. Honda or Walmart quality, will not make a difference.

situation 3: Pull the ABS fuse located on the left side of the engine bay ( small fuse box ) and drive without ABS, since I find trusting a computer to brake for me super gay. If I want to lock up my brakes I lock them, I have not having the choice to do it, so I run my ride fuse-less


whatever the case is, if you need to change out the reservior
( which sometimes is needed since they have a pump to charge ) or the ABS unit ( ECU for ABS ) they sell them on ebay


abs reservior
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Old October 12th, 2006, 03:16 PM   #15
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ok thanks.. well im trying to stay away from that.. honda wants $5-600 to replace the reservoir.. thanks for the pic of it.. now i know what to check.. im pretty sure nothing is leaking so hopefully i just need fluid.. reason being cause ( just talked to my dad) cause i had my whole rear end brake system replaced (Rotors, calipers, pads) earlier this year, and now im thinkin midas didnt bleed the brakes well enough when they replaced the calipers so thats why im low on fluid. Also i dont have anything to bleed the brakes myself where im at.. id have to go drive a few hours to my dads (he's got a ton of equipment there) but i can add the oil.. so its called Dot 3 brake fluid? I cant afford to get anthing flushed right now.. so i really hope i can get by with filling it up.. ill let ya know thanks
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Old October 12th, 2006, 05:50 PM   #16
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Ok i looked at it.. is the resevoir the shaded/clear cylinder next to the unit you showed above? it has a red cap on it, if you take it off it goes directly to the fluid of some sort.. If that is it the fluid is about 2" down from the top of the container.. If its not it and its in that unit you showed (has grey cap) i pulled off the rubber cap but there seems to be no way to access anything underneath it. looks sealed. please let me know.. thanks
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Old October 12th, 2006, 08:59 PM   #17
 
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no the cylinder type tank next to the unit he showed above is for the power steering. the unit pictured above is the abs unit. take off the gray cap and fill the fluid to the max or fill line. make sure you clean the area before removing the gray cap.
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Old October 13th, 2006, 05:13 AM   #18
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like i said above, i pulled that gray cap off but underneath it all looks sealed, it doesnt look like anything can be removed to add fluid
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Old October 19th, 2006, 10:14 AM   #19
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ill take some pics for you....cuz i prob need to fill mine anyways.
mine started losing fluid this summer w/ the heat around here. when you do fill it, it will take a day or so for the light to go off because it has to get rid of the air thats been pumped into the system when it was low. like cowgodv6 said any fluid will do.

thundagoose if ya want PM me and ill give ya my # and ill walk you thru it.
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Old October 19th, 2006, 05:34 PM   #20
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Just need a small flathead screwdriver to pop that second cap off under the bigger grey one.
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Old October 20th, 2006, 06:45 AM   #21
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ok i got some STP Dot 3 brake fluid and did that.. filled it all the way to the top of the lip. Hopefully the light will go off.. but now im starting to think its a bad wheel sensor.. the abs light doesnt come on now till i start rolling past 5 mph (not even applying the brake) .. I guess if the light doesnt go off in a couple days i will have to take it in to get the codes pulled.. thanks for the pics and help... time to play the waiting game again..
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Old October 20th, 2006, 07:17 AM   #22
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next time you start the car listen for a noise from the front right corner of the dash that sounds like something trying to pump. if it is a ABS sensor you can jack up that side and take the tire off and look for something that looks like a band w/ raised ridges on it (thats the thing that tells the sensor how many times its going around).
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Old October 25th, 2006, 07:25 AM   #23
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Ok.. been a few days now.. ABS light still on.. re-checked fluid and is still full... so no leaking.. Listened when i started the car and no pumping sound, but i do hear a kind of loud click sound in the right side of the dash.. just one click... guess its time to take the car in and pull the code
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Old October 25th, 2006, 08:05 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thundagoose
Ok.. been a few days now.. ABS light still on.. re-checked fluid and is still full... so no leaking.. Listened when i started the car and no pumping sound, but i do hear a kind of loud click sound in the right side of the dash.. just one click... guess its time to take the car in and pull the code
that might be the ABS pump trying to pump fluid. if you hear the click it should be aright about the same time the ABS light comes on in the dash.

and from experience it should only be about 90 bucks for them to pull the code from under the passenger footwell (behind the carpet).
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Old October 25th, 2006, 03:24 PM   #25
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yeah when i called honda the day it happened they said $81 to pull the code and diagnose.. im just in trouble if i need a new module.. but what if its a wheel sensor? how much would those run? Hopefully not as much as the abs module
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