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Old November 1st, 2005, 08:54 PM   #1
 
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Angry Random misfire!!

Ok My accord has about 85 k miles on it. I have a problem that in the morning when the car has not been driven for like 12 hours, when started will misfire. ONLY whn it has not been driven for like 12 hours. You can hold it at 2500 or idle it will still randomly miss. It will miss for about 10 or so seconds. You can pull off spark plug wires and the misfire is not confined to one ciliner. It is getting worse too. Now its to back masage stage when you start it. Heres what ive done to it so far:

1. Fuel injector cleaner bout 2 bottels so far.
2. Ohm out wires- about 900 ohms an inch including the coil wire
3. New plugs- no change
4. cleaned fuel pressure regulator
5. confirmed fuel pump volume
6. I let the fuel pump run for a few seconds when I turn on the key. This makes no difference
7. Hooked up a genesys went for a road trip all sensors read normal
8 long term fuel trim is about -2, to -3% I live in casper wyoming.
9 short term goes any where form about -4 to -5%
10 New cap and rotor.
11 different brands of gas and different octaines.
12 New fuel filter.
13 NO codes in the computer at all
14 umplugged and repluged all ignition connectors and
15 wiggled them during the misfire.

Im beginning to think the ignition coil is bad.... Any sugestions?

Being as you can remove random wires and still get a worse mis. I think I have ruled out anything past the distributer.
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Old November 1st, 2005, 09:01 PM   #2
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sounds like it may be a grounding issue to the coil or distributor rotor
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Old November 1st, 2005, 09:31 PM   #3
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metallikatz3
sounds like it may be a grounding issue to the coil or distributor rotor
I was thinking that, but You hear no clicking (spark leak) untel you remove a plug wire. then you hear a click form inside the distributer cap.

Im gonna go n play with it a little in the dark and see if i can see a spark leaking tho.
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Old November 1st, 2005, 11:48 PM   #4
 
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you might want to take it to a shop and pay the checkout fee to let them test it and tell you what the problem or you can just take a stab at the ignition coil if you've never changed it before. get the msd one, not the honda one, its better. also, what kind of plugs are you using? oh yea and before i go, is your tach needle jumping around on occasion or even all the time? later, good luck

Last edited by Bash; November 1st, 2005 at 11:50 PM..
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Old November 2nd, 2005, 10:16 AM   #5
 
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No, but it occasionaly "sticks" in random spots. And I played with it a little last night, the click does not come form the cap, rather the spark is leaping from the coil to ground. But only with a wire removed.
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Old November 2nd, 2005, 06:51 PM   #6
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i have a feeling its the coil
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Old November 3rd, 2005, 03:25 PM   #7
 
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I went back to the highschool today and hooked it up to a Sun spark analyser. All the cilinders are fireing evenly the max voltage on the coil is about 30K volts. After the fuel burns, there are about 4 rippels in its field. This tells me that the coil is beginning to weaken. Also I just installed a new rotor. The honda dealer explisitly told me that a new rotor was installed but they did not do it. They just put on a new cap. So i will repost on what happens tomorrow morning then.
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Old November 3rd, 2005, 03:27 PM   #8
 
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Or could it mabe be a maulfuctioning ignighter? I hope not- its 150 bux
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Old November 3rd, 2005, 06:26 PM   #9
 
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just put the new coil. its better to have the msd coil anyways, regardless if thats your problem or not. and who knows, now im almost sure its the coil cause thats a very very common problem in our cars.
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Old November 3rd, 2005, 09:23 PM   #10
 
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Yeah, I think I may just go ahead and do this mod any ways. I will probubly do it when I get my bracket and some decent income to buy new wires. By the way Can I just cut the wires off the oem coil and solder new ones onto it? or do I have to use some other way of connecting this?
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Old November 3rd, 2005, 11:40 PM   #11
 
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you can do what i did and i think roosplash did the same thing, just unplug the connector from the honda coil and use spade connectors and make some new wire and connect the spade part in the oem harness and tape it to secure it. there is a wiring diagram here somewhere, its really easy to wire. i did mine in a half hour at night with a cell phone light. what state are you in by the way.
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Old November 4th, 2005, 09:11 AM   #12
 
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yeah i did it wiht the spade connectors to, super easy
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Old November 4th, 2005, 09:16 AM   #13
 
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Thanks
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Old November 4th, 2005, 11:50 AM   #14
 
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just put electrical tape around the wiring when done.. so water doesnt get in and its secured tightly.
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Old November 5th, 2005, 08:40 AM   #15
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4mytoys
just put electrical tape around the wiring when done.. so water doesnt get in and its secured tightly.
Dont wrap the tape too tight. there would be a possibility to pull the spade connectors from the harness and short the system. I never taped mine. What I ended up doing was using 4 wires, 2 ring terminals, 4 spade terminals, and shrink tube. Use 2 wires approx. 8" long , twist 2 wire ends together, then crimp and solder 1 ring terminal on the the end. You end up with a ring terminal with 2 pig tails. Crimp and solder a spade terminal to each end of the pig tails. Slide a piece a shrink tubing over the two wires from the ring terminal end and heat to shrink, make sure the tube is long enough to cover the crimp solder conections. Make 2 of these, one for the hot side, one for the ground side. If you are concerned with water or corrosion just put dialectric grease in the harness socket
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Old November 5th, 2005, 01:25 PM   #16
 
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I dont have access to any of my iwreing diagrams any more, so which side or which wires rather are the + and the - out of those 4?
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Old November 5th, 2005, 08:09 PM   #17
 
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I dont have access to any of my iwreing diagrams any more, so which side or which wires rather are the + and the - out of those 4?
Hate to say it but do a search for "coil" or "blaster coil" I forget the exact colors, but I think they are negative side green wire and blue wire, positive side are yellow wire and yellow/black wire. Reguardless of the colors the positive wires are thicker than the negative, that much I do remember.
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Old November 5th, 2005, 09:19 PM   #18
 
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i had a very similar problem w/ my 96 accord..when i say very similar, seemed like dejavu reading your first post. After futsing with various things for 3 months I found that there was a cold solder joint on the ecu that would randomly sperate depending on the temp. Might be something to try?
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Old November 7th, 2005, 08:57 AM   #19
 
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and where is this solder joint? I can solder PCB no problem. Is it in the connector, a transister?
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Old November 11th, 2005, 07:17 AM   #20
 
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Any one?
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Old November 12th, 2005, 10:15 PM   #21
 
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Ok people I have successfully ruled out the coil 100% IT has a good shark fin, and i hooked up a noid light to the connector when it was 30 degrees out. I never did see it toggel on and off, but after cranking it without the coil connected, i plugged it in and it fired right up like it was 100 degrees out! and never missed a beat.
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Old November 12th, 2005, 10:17 PM   #22
 
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I also dug out the computer, wiggled wires, smacked it arround a little, nothing. So I dont think it has a loose solder joint
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Old November 13th, 2005, 10:42 AM   #23
 
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Aite humanz, thos morning I unhooked the igniter (the plug going into the distributer) and cranked on it for about 8 seconds total. Giving it a rest about every 3 seconds. It was 29 degrees out. Pluged it back in and and it did its usuial sputter thing. Now if i get my heat gun back im going to warm up the destributer as a whole and see how it starts. If its good when i heat it up and bad when i dont then im gonna put in a new igniter.

Does any one know how to dig it out of the distributer? Its really in there!
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Old March 6th, 2007, 11:29 AM   #24
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97accord-ex-v6
Aite humanz, thos morning I unhooked the igniter (the plug going into the distributer) and cranked on it for about 8 seconds total. Giving it a rest about every 3 seconds. It was 29 degrees out. Pluged it back in and and it did its usuial sputter thing. Now if i get my heat gun back im going to warm up the destributer as a whole and see how it starts. If its good when i heat it up and bad when i dont then im gonna put in a new igniter.

Does any one know how to dig it out of the distributer? Its really in there!

It was a loose wire in the big connector that goes into the computer.. unpluged it and repluged it and hasnt missed a beat since
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