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Old June 11th, 2006, 12:56 PM   #1
 
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Question Brake rotors and brake pads "re-visted" for 2006!

Well I am getting tired of my stock brake setup and would like to venture into the aftermarket. After getting my rims I noticed that I am looking at the brake rotors and calipers more and more. To be honest my old stock stuff looks like crap. I looked into getting some new brake rotors and brake pads on ebay and they all seem a like to me. What is the good, bad, and the ugly on brake components in general? (Good brands, good places to buy, Anything!) Also what about installing these bad boys. How hard is it, do you need air tools, special stuff, etc.? Thanks to all the replies in advance you guys are the best!!!

(I know some are wanting to see more of my ride since the lower and rims. I just gotta get it cleaned up and take some shots. Soon I promise!)
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Old June 11th, 2006, 05:13 PM   #2
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for one, aftermarket brakes dont last near as long as oem, the rotors usually warp or crack within a year.. if your an every day driver then ive heard from a lot of people to stay with oem. I know i know their ugly, i have 18's 7 spoke so you can see them plain as day.. There is the give and take. You want good looking rotors but they are not gonna last long, oem looks crappy but they last a long time. If you get past that part Brembo seems to make good rotors. I would not buy off ebay, as the quality of the rotors is unknown. I would buy from a trusted site like tasauto.com or off any other performance/replacement sites you know of. Also if you get brake pads Carbomet pads are the way to go.. Hawk is one name i can pull off the top of my head. Carbomet is carbon fiber based compound that makes the pad that decreases rotor heat and also brake dust is dramatically decreased. Installing them is not easy especially if you dont have all the right equipment and you have no idea what your doing. there are special tools to take the calipers off i believe and to make matters worse, the front rotors on the 5th gens are pressed on so you would be way better off going to a shop.. if you do that, find a good shop that is excellent with brake work and knows what they are really doing that will install aftermarket material. Most shops will not install anything unless you buy through them (Incase they break something, then they can replace it) if you give them the parts you become responsible to replace anything if they break it... Also if you get aftermarket i wouldnt recommend getting the drilled and slotted, i would just get the flat or slotted, the less rotor you have the more quickly it will warp cause its that much weaker from missing material. Most kits you see are more practical if you want the "Show Quality" look but Oem will give you the dependablitly you need.. Kinda long but i hope that helps
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Last edited by Thundagoose; June 11th, 2006 at 05:16 PM..
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Old June 11th, 2006, 10:37 PM   #3
 
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I agree with thundagoose mostly. Just to clarify difficulty of the job, there are no special tools required to take the calipers off, it's 2 bolts for the calipers and 2 more for the caliper brackets, just make sure you use line wrenches to take off the brake lines (and install some braided stainless steel lines while you're at it).
The part that is a serious pita is the damn rotors, 5th gen accords have a hub over rotor design, which means the hubs have to come off to get the rotors off (seriously it's the dumbest thing I've ever seen). Honestly if you're really going to do this I will give you a link to another accord forum that lists various brake/hub conversions for our cars, one of the options is swapping to a traditional rotor over hub design that will keep your car 4 lug so you can keep your wheels.

Just for reference I was trying to get my rotors off one day, I wound up having to use a torch and apply 800 ft.-lbs. of torque and I still couldn't get the hub nut off and I mangled the bar I was using, basically I need a 3/4 inch 1000 ft.-lb. impact gun to get my rotors off. This is one reason why hub over rotor sucks balls and everyone should convert theirs if they ever have the chance.
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Old June 11th, 2006, 10:48 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soldierdude262
I agree with thundagoose mostly. Just to clarify difficulty of the job, there are no special tools required to take the calipers off, it's 2 bolts for the calipers and 2 more for the caliper brackets, just make sure you use line wrenches to take off the brake lines (and install some braided stainless steel lines while you're at it).
The part that is a serious pita is the damn rotors, 5th gen accords have a hub over rotor design, which means the hubs have to come off to get the rotors off (seriously it's the dumbest thing I've ever seen). Honestly if you're really going to do this I will give you a link to another accord forum that lists various brake/hub conversions for our cars, one of the options is swapping to a traditional rotor over hub design that will keep your car 4 lug so you can keep your wheels.

Just for reference I was trying to get my rotors off one day, I wound up having to use a torch and apply 800 ft.-lbs. of torque and I still couldn't get the hub nut off and I mangled the bar I was using, basically I need a 3/4 inch 1000 ft.-lb. impact gun to get my rotors off. This is one reason why hub over rotor sucks balls and everyone should convert theirs if they ever have the chance.
Ok yeah wasnt sure about tools for the caliper.. And also its only the front rotors that is the hub over rotor design. If you happen to get the hub off, you have to have an special machine to press the hubs back in so they align right. You can press them in by other means but i highly recommend getting it done at a shop.. yeah.. I love doing my own work on my car but if your not experienced in brakes for a DIY you cant risk your safety like that (no offence).. Also Soldier are you still able to use the same rotors with the conversion or is it all special order things you need? anywhere to get these kits?

Oh yeah soldier when i got my rear brakes replaced, Midas told me it would take them 2 hours to pull the front rotors HAHA.. Midas i trust their work but they are damn expensive and i dont think i will go there again for anything.. they charged me $700 to replace both rear calipers/rotors/pads (all oem) including labor..

Last edited by Thundagoose; June 11th, 2006 at 10:59 PM..
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Old June 12th, 2006, 12:57 PM   #5
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take apart your brakes and lub the components every year
then you won't have that much of a problem to remove the brakes
yes the system is dumb, but since we know about it, we can prevent it

AXXIS and PBR makes superb pads
I have full ceramic on both cars and the bite is great
I just installed CRX SIR calipers on the civic and the bite is 15-20% more then SI stock calipers

Hawk pads are great, for autocrossing, not for daily driver
I've only heard complaints about dust from Hawk then any other

upgrading the brake lines is also very important
as well as flushing the brake system every year - it only costs 30$ ( max ) and you'll bleed out any air and have the best braking possible

you "can" upgrade to the 2 piston legend caliper system if you like ...
but with a good set of brembo blanks and quality pads, steel brake lines, bleeded out system, abs flush and cleaning you should be just fine

if you feel the need for cross drilled ( have on the civic ) they only offer Brembo Fronts drilled for V6
you'd need to order the 1994-1997 4 cylinder accord ABS Rear drilled set
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Old June 12th, 2006, 09:03 PM   #6
 
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I posted a thread that listed all the possible brake swaps, I'll do a search right now, I know it requires new hubs and rototors though.
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Old June 12th, 2006, 09:16 PM   #7
 
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Holy crap I found my brake thread and apparently it was stickied, I feel all special now....

Anyways here it is, http://www.v6performance.net/forums/...ad.php?t=72318, you can also find it stickied in the 5th gen faq section, one of the first swaps is titled simple rotor over hub conversion, listed there is all you need to do the swap to rotor over hub and still retain the stock lug pattern. Also note, the next one after that is the same swap with the addition of 2 piston calipers. 2 piston calipers with some brembo blank rotors is probably the absolute best bang for buck brake setup you can put in a 5th gen. And if you want'em to look pimp you can powdercoat (sp?) them (please don't just buy some caliper paint, it always winds up looking crappy, take the time to do it right and you'll only have to do it once)
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Old June 12th, 2006, 09:42 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soldierdude262
Holy crap I found my brake thread and apparently it was stickied, I feel all special now....

Anyways here it is, http://www.v6performance.net/forums/...ad.php?t=72318, you can also find it stickied in the 5th gen faq section, one of the first swaps is titled simple rotor over hub conversion, listed there is all you need to do the swap to rotor over hub and still retain the stock lug pattern. Also note, the next one after that is the same swap with the addition of 2 piston calipers. 2 piston calipers with some brembo blank rotors is probably the absolute best bang for buck brake setup you can put in a 5th gen. And if you want'em to look pimp you can powdercoat (sp?) them (please don't just buy some caliper paint, it always winds up looking crappy, take the time to do it right and you'll only have to do it once)

So is there anything to it? or do you just pull everything off and put it back together as ROH? Is it that easy or is it extensive work? Also forgot to add, best option would be to buy Brembo CL or Prelude blank rotors? Sorry im just not really brake smart lol.. and i thought you only needed wheel bearings for the HOR?

Last edited by Thundagoose; June 12th, 2006 at 09:51 PM..
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Old June 12th, 2006, 09:52 PM   #9
 
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well......the problem is gettin the new hubs pressed in, and the old hubs out. Unless you have a 3/4 inch air gun and a press, your best bet is to get the hubs from a junk yard to save $, and have a shop do the install of the new stuff with a press and the big air gun to get the old stuff out.


Edit, yes get brembo blanks for the cl, and the updates below refer to rotor and bracket combinations so make sure you red the new stuff I'm going to post tonight. You MAY need wheel bearing because you're using different hubs, the problem is that the where I got that infor from was for a site that was for 4 and 6 cylinder accords, I was able to weed out parts that we already have, but I was never clear on the hub issue, I'll do some research tonight.

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Old June 12th, 2006, 09:53 PM   #10
 
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BTW there are/will be new updates to that brake swap thread I posted the link to, give me like 5 mintes after this post.
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Old June 12th, 2006, 10:05 PM   #11
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Well now im confused.. I though the purpose of doing the swap to ROH was so that you dont have to pull the hubs and press them in.. So they still get pressed in but before you put on the rotors? ..
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Old June 12th, 2006, 10:07 PM   #12
 
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You need new hubs because the hubs for ROH and HOR are different, and so are the rotors, which is why you need new rotors even though you're not changing the lug pattern
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Old June 12th, 2006, 10:08 PM   #13
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is my point correct though? you just press in the hub before the rotors with the swap?
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Old June 12th, 2006, 10:16 PM   #14
 
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grrr things I forgot are coming back to me now.......first, with the swap you're supposed to swap the wheel bearings too because the stock bearing won't fit with the ROH hubs, these need to be pressed in to the knuckle, THEN the hub is installed, it may be possible to do this without a press by tightening it down with the hub nut (please consult a mechanic on that note). The reason I think that is because the people I got my info from just take the whole damn knuckle/brake assemply out in their driveway, take the entire knuckle/brake assembly to a shop and take off the old parts, have the shop press in the bearings, and then install, hubs, rotors, and calipers in their driveway
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Old June 12th, 2006, 10:21 PM   #15
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hmm.. Interesting....
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Old June 12th, 2006, 10:43 PM   #16
 
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I'm trying to research and see if we even need to swap out the bearings, I'll post an update on the later, speaking of which the changes to that parts list are posted.
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Old June 12th, 2006, 10:48 PM   #17
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You would think the NSX calipers would be better? is their a huge difference from those and the legend duel piston?


Edit* ok the Nsx calipers you cant use unless you go to 5 lug?

Last edited by Thundagoose; June 12th, 2006 at 10:55 PM..
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Old June 12th, 2006, 10:57 PM   #18
 
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That's a mistake, you can stay 4 lug and use the nsx calipers, and yes they would be better, but they cost alot and are hard to find.
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Old June 12th, 2006, 11:01 PM   #19
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obtainable thru acura dealer you think?

Edit* sorry.. Also NSX Calipers from 94-95 like the legend right? or different years?

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Old June 12th, 2006, 11:06 PM   #20
 
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lol I wouldn't, i found them on importreplacementparts.com, along with the legend gs calipers, problem is they don;t have the nsx calipers in stock, buuut they have the absolute best price because they will accept your av6 calipers for the core, as unbeleivable as that sounds I called and talked to Mike and confirmed it. This makes it like 200 for nsx and 100 for legend calipers or somethin like that after you get the core charge back
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Old June 12th, 2006, 11:09 PM   #21
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each right? $200 is damn good for NSX calipers then cause i spent that much on rebuilt Rear OEM calipers lol
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Old June 12th, 2006, 11:12 PM   #22
 
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no I meant for a set, it's so cheap because you're getting a core charge back for turning in your stock calipers
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Old June 12th, 2006, 11:13 PM   #23
 
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details here: http://www.v6performance.net/forums/...ad.php?t=72314
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Old June 12th, 2006, 11:13 PM   #24
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a set? damn.. midas sure screwed me..

Edit* on the site, are those calipers fully built? the picture would tell me they dont look like it but it says sample picture

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Old June 12th, 2006, 11:16 PM   #25
 
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lol don't trust the midas touch man

edit: I just noticed your Q about legend calipers, your looking for the calipers from the 94-95 GS sedan, also I learned that couple models had them possibly as an option, but I would only find that useful if I was junkyard hunting (if you do don't pay much because you can get rebuilt ones for a bit over 100), otherwise just search for GS sedan calipers because there will be less confusion, I've heard of people ordering couple calipers and getting the single piston calipers.

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Old June 12th, 2006, 11:40 PM   #26
 
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Yes they are rebuilt if you get them from import replacement parts
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Old June 13th, 2006, 12:26 AM   #27
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ok thanks
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Old June 13th, 2006, 06:58 AM   #28
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the nsx calipers don't give you much more bite then the acura calipers
they just have NSX stamped on the side of the caliper
I've seen a lot of civica and tegs in my area that did that swap, which would be worth it for most of them since they are show cars with 50k invested in them ...


I have the owners manuals for NSX and Legends and I compared that a long time ago

great posts and thread btw !!
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Old June 13th, 2006, 07:49 AM   #29
 
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Yeah the underlying idea that I always seemed to get when I was doing my research was that the NSX calipers are better, but not worth the extra cost. If I was doing auto-x I would go with them simply to have the absolute best calipers available, but for street use the extra braking power probably wont even be utilized, so I'll pay my $116 and be satisfied.
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Old June 13th, 2006, 11:39 PM   #30
 
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So much information guys thanks! Thanks for moving my post to the appropriate place also! I got some more questions however. Lets say I stay stock and stick with the rotors I have and the calipers I have. Then just DIY the pads with some good pads like AXXIS or some ceramic pads. Is that good enough? I have been doing this with cheaper pads but I remember going to les schwab(sp?) and they always say you should get the brakes done here because we turn the rotors, lube the system, change the calipers with rebuilt or referbed calipers, use some OEM spec pad, and drain your brake system. All for only about 400 dollars, a leg, newborn, and one finger to do all that. Now is all this stuff needed or is it just to make me feel better? If it is not needed when are those things needed to be done? Cowdog was saying a year for the fluid but what about the rest? Also are these DIY's or something a shop should probably do?

My two cents experience with Idaho Midas's
I know you guys mentioned Midas was pretty dependable and in Idaho they are pretty crappy I hear. The only experience I had with them was they couldn't figure out how to mount my univeral muffler I had on my toyota corolla years ago. To say the least my muffler is a tripping hazard (The midas touch right!) and it fit perfectly underneath my corolla which is a much smaller car then my accord without sticking out the back.

Last edited by Soelknight; June 13th, 2006 at 11:43 PM..
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