|December 3rd, 2011, 07:09 PM||#1|
Growth Chart Specialist
Join Date: Jul 2007
DIY: Ruster Rotors No more V2.0
I was tired of how Janky my rusted rotors looked after getting back my repaired CCW's.. so i decided to remove the rust,prep the surface properly and repaint.
Before we start
1)This method is for painting your rotors with the calipers still on, you can take them off to make this easier, but then you have to bleed your brakes,etc
2) A small bit of warning is that some of these metals come with a light coating of protection from the factory. What this means is that if you polish it off it will rust/dull much quicker than before.
3) The paint is not rated for the heat the rotors create so if that is a concern for you then you may choose from a selection of High Temp spray paint
-BLACK & DECKER 3 In. Wire Cup Brush (70-610) from The Home Depot
-Car jack with Jack stands
-3M Blue Masking tape
-Rubber butyl tape or any bendable tape
-Rust Reformer Spray paint
-Rust-Oleum Galaxy Blue Colorshift spray paint
Step 1: Start
Jack up your car and remove the wheels to get this
Step 2: Remove Rust
Using the wire metal wire cup brushes remove all the rust you can see. You can also shine up your calipers and the central cap thing.
Step 3: Mask the rotors
Easiest way I found to mask off the rotors was to use tape in lines that are perpendicular to the center. This lets you remove a few pieces a few pieces at a time when it comes to rotating the rotors.
Step 4: Trim the outer edge
Easiest method to get a clean line was to use your nail and run your finger around the rotor to get the tape to stick down well. Then using an x-acto blade ( or in my case a scalpel) just run it around the rotor and get a clean edge
Step5: Masking the center edge
I found that regardless of what technique I used regular masking tape sucked at going around a curved edge. I found that using rubber butyl tape worked best as I could apply it and the lift and reapply if I wasn’t happy, you can also push and pull it back and forth once it’s on to get a perfect edge
Step6: Mask everything else off
Pretty easy. For the center cap just run a “fence” around it using the tape and then flatten it towards the center.
Step7: Spray Rust reformer, Colorshift and rotate
It was getting dark again so had to take several steps in one picture
You first want to spray on the rust reformer. Do at least 2-3 THIN coats, as you don’t want any runs. Let it dry 20 minutes between coats.
Next you want to apply the Colorshift paint. Same thing 2-3 thin coats.
The one problem you have now ( unless you remove your caliper) is that there will be area of the rotor that is not fully painted.
This is when it helps to have used so much tape before. What you want to do is remove enough tape so that you can rotate the rotor and have the unpainted part be at the very top. A rough estimate is that you will probably remove half the tape you put down.
You will end up with something like this
Step8: Remask area, Spray Rust reformer, Colorshift
Again remask the area just like before
-Be careful to not overspray the rust reformer, you only want in the area that didn’t get paint
- Again spray 2-3 coats of your Colorshift paint, you don’t have to be as careful as before with the Rust Reformer as this is your final step.
You’ll get something like this when you are done
Step 9: Let the paint dry and unmask
You should wait at least 1-2 hours to let the paint dry before you unmask it. If you do it sooner you may smudge your paint.. if you wait later your paint may crack slightly around the edges, so I like unmasking when the paint is still a little soft.
Now after unmasking you have to wait 24 HOURS for full cure
The paint is not rated at the temps the rotor heats up to, but letting it dry lets it harden as best as it can. Ive run my car in 108+ degree weather and the paint looks good so far after a month of use.
|April 16th, 2012, 12:37 AM||#3|
Join Date: Jan 2007
4 years ago or so I purchased 4 new Brembo rotors. I essentially did the same work you did (minus the rust reformer), except I used high temp primer, and then high temp black paint.
2 years later and they looked almost exactly like the one in your step 1 picture. 4 years later and now they look exactly like your step 1 picture.
Curious if anyone else has experienced the same effect.
edit: just realized this thread is a bit of a dinosaur, no wonder the color shift rotors looked familiar.
How did your paint job hold up Shenaniganz08?
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