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Old February 3rd, 2004, 06:38 AM   #1
Join Date: Nov 2003
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got a helms>>need a wire color

I need the wire color for the passenger side powermirror coming out of the drivers side door harness....

just incase anyone is wondering....

I need to pulse my factory alarm when my regular alarm remote instead of trying to run wire into the door, we are going to piggy back the pulse off the powermirror wire since it has to come into the car anyways.....
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Old February 3rd, 2004, 04:00 PM   #2
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Why not use the unlock wire? What do you mean piggyback on the wire? If you connect the unlock to the mirror every time you unlock your car you will move the mirror.
Just use the Unlock pulse, and set it for 2-3 pulses to activate your start and you should be good to go.

The thought of arbitrarily cutting and splicing wires makes my head hurt.

Why use a wire meant for another function? It not that hard to pass a wire. Just pull the top part of the rubber tube that goes to the door, pull the bottom part out, make them straight, and push a coat hanger through then tape your wires to it and pull them through. I'm running 2 18 gauge, and 2 24 gauge to every door for my window modules as well as two 12 gauge for my midbass in my doors. There's plenty of room, and you don't ened more than 24 gauge for a sense signal.

Last edited by illusion; February 3rd, 2004 at 04:04 PM..
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Old February 3rd, 2004, 05:23 PM   #3
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because...the whole point is not to have to unlock the doors before the car remote starts....if I pulse the blue wire in the door it disables the factory alarm, and leaves the door locked.

and i find the 10 seconds its going to take me to have my remote start send a ground pulse down one wire and out the other considerably easier then running wire into the doors, which is a 1+ hour task at best and a mid winter temporary stop gap till wire can be run, if it will be run at all, which seems to be unnecessary if this works correctly....why create unecessary work.... and I wouldnt be cutting a splicing anything, I would be using a wire that is dead while the car is off....

it wouldnt move the mirror, it would be sending a ground pulse down a 12v power wire that is not energized untill the car is on at which point would mean that the remote starter is engaged so aslong as its diode isolated on the trigger side and broken with a relay (still easier for me atleast than running wire).

when we tried to run a wire into the door, we tried for 30 mintures with no sucess, and lefty was saying he had to pop the hinge....
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Old February 3rd, 2004, 06:08 PM   #4
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so you're putting in a completely new alarm on top of the factory RKE, or just a a remote start with it's own fob? I thought you were adding remote start to the factor alarm using the factor key fob. I have a viper 791xv($200 on ebay) working just fine with the factory still there, i just don't arm the factory since the factory alarm only arms from the remote or the drivers key, not from anything else.

The blue wire that goes to the 5 wire door lock has to be passed into the cabin so the factory alarm can see it. The harness for the door is the long plug on the bottom left of the drivers fuse box. That has all of the wires that come out of the door. I'm pretty sure it's the lower left, stick your hand in the back and you can feel it coming through the grommet them just follow it, it's a tight squeeze but I'm a prett big boy and I got my hand in there.

Personally I trust the immoblizer and my viper just fine, I have no use for the factory one, I just unlocked the doors one last time with the factory remotes and threw it in a box, no use for two remotes, I have too much bulk on my keys as is, 1 key and 1 remote
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Old February 3rd, 2004, 06:54 PM   #5
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I have an Rs2 installed ontop of the factory unit, but the factory alarm arms when the doors are takes a while but eventually it rearms....I want to be able to remote start the car without unlocking the door, not cause I worry about the car getting stolen, but I dont want any of my **** to go missing, not to mention how annoying it is to have the damn alarm going off all the time.

so you are sure the wire comes inot the car...I was told it didnt by a couple installers, that it gets multiplexed into the car, but dosent actually come through the grommet anywhere you can get at...infact on DEI's website it says the only place to get it is in the door...

thats where the whole piggyback idea came from, since the mirror wire has to come into the car and go to the passenger side, it would be easier to get at it then get it into the door...

I knew my teg inside and out, where every wire went etc... I have had the hood in my accord open mabyee 3 I will conceede I dont know too much about it yet. if your pretty sure the wire comes into the car in the harness then I will just hit it directly, but I was under the impression that it wasnt in the car at all....
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Old February 3rd, 2004, 11:32 PM   #6
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I've always wondered if there was a way to do this. If you have any luck, let me know. I also hate having to unlock my doors to remote start my car. Thanks
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Old February 4th, 2004, 12:01 AM   #7
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sorry to thread steal, but does anyone know the wire for the power window master control to bring up the passenger window?
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Old February 4th, 2004, 03:03 PM   #8
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you have to grab it at the motor(or the switch at that window) if you're using a window module, that's why I have so many freaking wires running from each door. In older cars they would bring high power wires to the drivers door, or a central module somewhere, now each door has it's own control module so you have to cut those at the door, and go through a BIG headache running wires into the cabin. I have the window ire colors at home, I'll give them to you when I get home, or you can join forums and search for accord, there's several helpful posts.

As far as the unlocking to remote start. I'm still not sure why you guys have to. I've put an RS3.5 in an accord EX, an RS3 in an accord LX and 791xv in my car all with no troubles. If you have the factory "upgraded" alarm which will be an automate series add-on alarm, just rip the automate out before you put in a real alarm and you'll have no troubles. Unlock the door one last time, turn the key on and off and the RKE won't lock it ever again, only your alarm will. I remote start mine without ever disarming the alarm or unlocking the doors.

If I have time tonight I'll open up my my drivers door and figure out what wire color, just turn the ignition on, grab the dvm and see which wires go hot when you flip the switch. Any preference in direction?
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Old February 4th, 2004, 03:10 PM   #9
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I prefer sideways...

dont bother looking....its not worth it right now...if you had a helms, cool, if not please dont waste your time

I dont know man!! all I know is that my factory keyless/alarm with my honda logo (not the automate one, we would have found it when we did mine), goes off (horn etc...)whever the remote start engages....

the thing will arm and disarm with the unlock, so if I unlock problem. however when I lock it, it auto arms after a looong ass period of time (15+ minutes)....which makes everyoine think its disabled....but.. I **** you not the damn alarm goes off everytime the remote starter is engage....or..if I pop the trunk with the rs2...I can use the key (similar diarm in the trunk??? (I need to double check that?) but if i pop the trunk it will go off too... (I think)....grr....just need it to be warm enough and not so ****ing wet that I can check this out, its getting annoying...I know i cna rs from inside my apt, but I cant hear the alarm, so I never want to do it cause I dont want the damn thing going off all the time!!!!

so thats where the pulse idea comes from....

p.s. did you accords have the security light in the drivers side door? if that helps to narrow which factory flavor alarm I have?
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Old February 6th, 2004, 04:38 PM   #10
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****ing best buy...

my remote starter does this wierd thing where it wont arm or disarm, starts cycling the internal relays and siren, basically goes nuts. its happend a couple of times in the new car but never in my every time I take it to them (mind you I worked tehre for 5 years and still have friends who are installers there), it works ok and we say..well mabyee we got finally i take it there, its acting up, and there like sweet its ****ed up, we can do an exchange for a 3.5 but.....oh you have to pay teh full difference (IE 300 + install) since I got it with my discount last what do they do, their sending it back to dei to be repaired/replaced, and I am out a RS and ALARM for like 3 weeks....
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