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Old July 5th, 2003, 03:42 AM   #1
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2nd Trunk Battery

can the stock alternator handle having 2 batterys like 2 optima red one up front one in the trunk?
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Old July 5th, 2003, 11:01 AM   #2
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Re: 2nd Trunk Battery

Quote:
Originally posted by Blazin036 on July 5th, 2003 at 10:42 AM

can the stock alternator handle having 2 batterys like 2 optima red one up front one in the trunk?
yes, if you get a second battery run a yellow in the back and a red up front, ive had that set up for over 2 years and never had a problem. its insane how much you can do with the car off and it still start right up. 6 hours of bumpin music with the car off and it barley hesitated when i started it up.
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Old July 5th, 2003, 11:33 AM   #3
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but its fine on a stock alternator?

Last edited by Blazin036; July 5th, 2003 at 11:42 PM..
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Old July 6th, 2003, 11:30 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally posted by Blazin036 on July 5th, 2003 at 06:33 PM

but its fine on a stock alternator?
YEP
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Old July 6th, 2003, 03:06 PM   #5
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get a decent battery isolator and you're all set. then run your system off the back one, you wil be able to run it till it dies, and since you have it isolated you'll still be able to start.
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Old July 6th, 2003, 03:15 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by illusion on July 6th, 2003 at 10:06 PM

get a decent battery isolator and you're all set. then run your system off the back one, you wil be able to run it till it dies, and since you have it isolated you'll still be able to start.
i always wondered what the isolater did, i thought it had to do with the way the second battery was charged.
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Old July 6th, 2003, 10:15 PM   #7
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i need to know what the isolater dose too also the optima battery are gel not acid so there no chance of it leaking right? i just need ot keep it from tiping over not in a box?
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Old July 6th, 2003, 10:27 PM   #8
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an isolator is a pair of huge diodes(current flows in one direction but not the other). It keeps the two batteries separate. The alternator can feed both of them at the same time, but they cannot react with eachother. Both batteries use the ground as a reference so there's no troubles with that. But if you just hook two batteries in parallel, if one starts to go bad or if one has a slightly lower potential it can effect the other and the entire system, and isolator just isolates them.

In theory an optima can be mounted any way you want, but personally I feel best with the posts up.
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Old July 7th, 2003, 11:12 AM   #9
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so theres no chances of getting battery acid in the trunk right? and what type of isolator like size or part number and should i use 4 guage to connect the 2 batteries. thanks for your help illusion
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Old July 7th, 2003, 04:35 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by Blazin036 on July 7th, 2003 at 06:12 PM

so theres no chances of getting battery acid in the trunk right? and what type of isolator like size or part number and should i use 4 guage to connect the 2 batteries. thanks for your help illusion
not unless you break open the battery...it wont leak. id go bigger than 4 guage.
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Old July 7th, 2003, 04:41 PM   #11
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i was thinking about getting a second battery also..if i get the second battery where would i connect it to?...
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Old July 7th, 2003, 06:10 PM   #12
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the front battery would be to the engine and the rear would be to audio amps tv dvd ps2 computer or what not and lighting neons and strobes

so 4 guage isnt good enought ?
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Old July 7th, 2003, 07:57 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by Blazin036 on July 8th, 2003 at 01:10 AM

the front battery would be to the engine and the rear would be to audio amps tv dvd ps2 computer or what not and lighting neons and strobes

so 4 guage isnt good enought ?
4 may be ok, but i always like to go a bit bigger just to make sure.
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Old July 7th, 2003, 08:24 PM   #14
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Over that length 0awg would be recommended. But more importantly what is the reason you feel you need a second battery?

--Don
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Old July 8th, 2003, 11:36 AM   #15
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im plain on up grading my sound system even more and more tvs more lighting i wanna use this during car show with out having to actualy pay for electricty
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Old July 8th, 2003, 11:51 AM   #16
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Anything over 120A should be ok. Look on ebay, there's a few used 130A phoenix gold isolators for a real good price. They pretty much last forever, so don't have to worry about them being used. Beware though, on ebay there's quite a few things people are calling isolators, they aren't they are just high power relays. An isolator always looks like a big brick with heat sink fins on it. If it's a little barrel thing it's a relay.

And I have to agree, 0 gauge for that long of a run, 2 gauge bare minimum, but 0 gauge to be safe. The longer the run the thicker wire you need to keep the IR drop to a minimum.


Just thought I'd add, if you want a decent one for relatively cheap go to http://www.kragen.com and look for the Warn 28022, it's $85, but it's 120 and is a good product. The phoenix gold one is $175 new(saw several used ones for $40 on ebay). There's also a real good one from lighting audio, but it's $300

Last edited by illusion; July 8th, 2003 at 11:58 AM..
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Old July 8th, 2003, 10:56 PM   #17
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cool thanks illusionand eveyone else
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Old July 11th, 2003, 02:43 PM   #18
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To illusion and everyone else. I got a question. Okay I know when you run the power wire from the main battery to the battery isolator you have to have a in-line fuse. But now from the isolator to the secondary battery do you also need another in-line fuse? Thanks
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Old July 11th, 2003, 06:47 PM   #19
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depends how anal you want to be. the one from alternator to the isolator will keep you from cooking your entire car, if you put one on each line from the isolator it will keep you from cooking the isolator. Just good practice to me. I'd get some cheap barrel fuse holders off of ebay, like $5 each, with maybe 120amp fuse in each. Can't even be too safe. But do you have to? not really, the worst thing that would happen is you cook the isolator.
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