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Old May 7th, 2003, 09:26 AM   #1
 
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HOW TO: Adjusting valve clearances by Geaux4it

This post was originally made by Geaux4it on the accordv6.com forums. This is very useful and valuable info on a subject that is hardly covered.

Detailed HowTo on Adjusting Valve

Sorry I'm late. Here is the detailed how-to that I wrote up a while back on how to adjust your valves.

Well, I FINALLY got around to doing the valve adjustment to my car. I adjusted the valves and it fixed the annoying ticking noise I would hear at idle. I had my fingers crossed when I started my engine, not because I didn't know what I was doing, but because I had never tackled a project like this before. With the instructions I provide below I hope this will help someone like me who wants to adjust their valves and not have to rely on Honda to do it ($300).

First off, this must be done with your engine cold.

SPECS
Valve Clearance
Intake (0.008 to 0.009 inch)
Exhaust (0.011 to 0.013 inch)

TORQUE SPECS
Valve cover bolts 9lbs.
Intake Manifold Bolts 16lbs.
Cam Gear Cover Bolts 9lbs.

TOOLS
Feeler Gauge
Flat Head Screw Driver
Torque Wrench
Other Misc. Tools

Disconnect your Negative (-) battery cable. Jack the passenger side of the car up and remove the wheel. Now you are going to need to remove your intake manifold (Refer to figure 1a). First remove your intake manifold covers. Then remove the intake duct, then disconnect the hoses and other connections from the throttle body. Next detach the throttle and cruise control cable end from the bellcrank (Refer to figure 2a). Plug the coolant hose that you remove from the throttle body. Note: Make sure you take a good look at the hoses that are connected to the throttle body so that when putting them back on you know where they go. When removing the intake manifold follow the reverse of the tightening sequence shown in figure 1a. Remove the manifold with the throttle body attached. Now you need to remove the cam gear cover. I believe there are 5 bolts holding the cover in place. Note: You might have to slightly bend the dip stick holder and pry back your pulley belt in order to remove the cam gear cover. This part was actually the most difficult. Once you get it removed, rotate the crankshaft clockwise and position the number one (1) piston at Top Dead Center (Refer to figure 1b, 1c & 1d). In order to rotate the crankshaft use a socket and ratchet and attach it to the bolt threaded into the front of the crankshaft. Note: Using a "cheater bar" that you can slide in your ratchet to gain leverage will help you turn the crankshaft slowly and precisely. You will find the passenger side splash guard has an opening, this is the opening you use to turn the crankshaft. When positioned correctly at Top Dead Center, the number one (1) mark on the cam gear will align with the mark on the rear cover. In this position, adjust the valves for cylinder number one. There are four (4) valves for each cylinder. Check to see if your valves are loose (this is what causes the ticking noise). In order to do this insert the .008 inch between the valve stem and rocker arm (URL=http://www.nissanfairladyz.com/images/valve/Valve-Tension2b.jpg]Refer to figure 2b[/URL]). Move the feeler gauge around, you should feel tension when doing so. If there is very little to no tension at all you will need to adjust the valve. Loosen the lock-nut and insert the .009 inch gauge between the valve stem and rocker arm. Then tighten the screw till you feel SLIGHT tension. Now with your box-end wrench tighten the lock-nut (Refer to figure 2c). Note: Make sure when tightening the lock-nut to hold pressure on the valve screw with your screw driver to make sure it doesn't move when your tightening the lock-nut. Use the same procedure mentioned above for checking the exhaust valves on cylinder number one (1) as well, but make SURE to adjust the valve clearance to .011 inches. After you finish adjusting the two (2) intake valves and two (2) exhaust valves on cylinder number one (1) rotate the crankshaft pulley clockwise until the number four (4) mark on the cam gear aligns with the mark on the rear cover then check and adjust the valves for cylinder number four (4). Repeat this procedure following the firing order on the cam gear with the number two (2) being next, then five (5), then three (3) and finally six (6). Once you have adjusted all your valves, time to put things back where they go. First put the valve covers back on. Note: Check the torque specs listed at the top to make sure you don't over or under torque the bolts. Then put the manifold back on. Make sure to follow the tightening sequence shown in figure 1a. Connect the hoses and other connectors to the throttle body. Reconnect the throttle and cruise control cable to the bellcrank (Refer to figure 2a). After you finish putting everything back. Reconnect the negative (-) battery terminal and start your car. Let it idle for 5 - 10 minutes
with all of your accessories off. Then take it for a spin!

Just as a disclaimer, I have to put this.
I can't be held responsible for any type of problems you have after performing this. However I am open to any questions and am glad to help.

Last edited by Hardcore_Newbie; May 7th, 2003 at 09:29 AM..
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Old May 7th, 2003, 04:07 PM   #2
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j0o da man!

Thanks for posting that.
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Old May 7th, 2003, 04:17 PM   #3
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thanks you sooooo much bro, you just saved me alot of $$$

time for a sticky
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Old May 11th, 2003, 12:59 PM   #4
 
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excellent. when is it recommended to perform that? at how many miles?
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Old May 11th, 2003, 09:57 PM   #5
 
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No set recommendation, whenever valve noise gets loud.

Sam
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Old May 27th, 2003, 10:24 PM   #6
 
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YAY!! i've been noticing that ticking noise for a while now! Thank you SO much!
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Old May 28th, 2003, 11:19 PM   #7
 
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that's a tight DIY, how long does this procedure take? did you notice any regained responsiveness or fuel economy from this?
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Old May 29th, 2003, 12:01 PM   #8
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Ok ok, so I can hear it a little on my car, but can someone explain to me exactly what it is? The valves slapping against the combustion chamber?
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Old May 29th, 2003, 12:46 PM   #9
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hope noise doesn't come from valve slapping against combustion chamber on your car, other wise your engine needs new cylinder head, because valves are bent.

slight tapping noise generated by accessive gap between valve stem and rocker arm and all it need is adjustment.
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Old May 29th, 2003, 10:30 PM   #10
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Ooooh okay. Bleh It coulda been slapping against the combustion chamber, they've gotta open and close =/. Anyway was only a guess, wanted to know what that ticking was.
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Old September 12th, 2003, 12:13 AM   #11
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How long does this take? Would this benefit me greatly prior to dyno-tuning?
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Old September 12th, 2003, 02:21 AM   #12
 
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It takes like 4 hours to do... longer if you havent pried open your valve cover before. You shouldn't have a need to do this unless your engine makes a loud ticking noise
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Old September 12th, 2003, 02:26 AM   #13
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Well, my engine is louder than when I bought it new (right now at 54K and some change). Four hours isn't an issue for me, but will this be beneficial (noticeably) before dyno tuning?
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Old September 21st, 2003, 09:42 AM   #14
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^Anyone?
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Old September 21st, 2003, 12:40 PM   #15
 
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Naw, it won't have a big impact on your tuning
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Old December 2nd, 2003, 06:42 PM   #16
 
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ive had a ticking sound since i bought my car (7th gen).......could it be the valves?

im not near skilled enough to think about trying this but does the ticking do anything? it wont hurt the engine will it?
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Old December 3rd, 2003, 12:18 AM   #17
 
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to my understanding the valve clearances only need adjusting after a good amount of miles or wear on the engine.
you might want to bring it into your dealer to see what they say about it, because i doubt your valves need adjusting so fast.
i heard that the ticking due to valve clearances might eventually wear out some part of your valves, but i doubt it's crucial. adjusting valve clearances does not have a big impact on power or fuel economy of the car.
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Old December 3rd, 2003, 12:34 AM   #18
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I had the ticking in my 6th gen since 20k miles now at 53k miles, i took out the spark plugs and find oil on 2 of them. Possible problems are the rings or my valves so i think im going to have to get that done maybe.
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Old March 27th, 2004, 09:07 AM   #19
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by lengjai223
adjusting valve clearances does not have a big impact on power or fuel economy of the car.
i doubt that! Like someone said, the slapping/ticking sound comes from excessive clearance between the rocker arm and valve stem. If there is excessive clearance, this means the valves arent opening to their full value. Which means less air is getting into the engine and less exhaust is getting exhausted out of the engine. I would think this would lead to loss in power and fuel economy. Anyone agree with me on this?

Dave
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Old July 2nd, 2005, 02:10 PM   #20
 
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Is there something like this for the 4 cyl 6th gen i need to do this bad my car sounds like a deisel almost...please guys help... thanks
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Old July 2nd, 2005, 02:12 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chavezguy04
Is there something like this for the 4 cyl 6th gen i need to do this bad my car sounds like a deisel almost...please guys help... thanks
I've adjusted valves on a 4cyl 6th gen last month, and it was easier than the 6th gen.
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Old July 2nd, 2005, 02:17 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bustedryde
I've adjusted valves on a 4cyl 6th gen last month, and it was easier than the 6th gen.
do you mean it's easier than the 6 cylinder?
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Old July 2nd, 2005, 02:18 PM   #23
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bustedryde
I've adjusted valves on a 4cyl 6th gen last month, and it was easier than the 6th gen.

Well could u help me like give me a brief idea of what i need and need to do ...like a how to if u could that would help.... thanks bro
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Old July 2nd, 2005, 02:58 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chavezguy04
Well could u help me like give me a brief idea of what i need and need to do ...like a how to if u could that would help.... thanks bro

The how-to instructions is at the first post
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Old July 2nd, 2005, 03:32 PM   #25
 
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yea but i have a 4cyl thats why this is for 6 cyl......
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Old July 2nd, 2005, 04:37 PM   #26
 
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Its the same thing for 4cyl. Take off valve cover, adjust, put back on valve cover. The specs for the feeler guage are on the inside of the hood.
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Old July 2nd, 2005, 04:49 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silv_Accord_V6
do you mean it's easier than the 6 cylinder?
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Old July 3rd, 2005, 03:01 AM   #28
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there is a big negative effect of not adjusting your valves, if they go really bad and left alone for a long period of time..........
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Old July 3rd, 2005, 09:12 AM   #29
 
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Originally Posted by 02prodigy
there is a big negative effect of not adjusting your valves, if they go really bad and left alone for a long period of time..........
How can you be absolutely certain that you NEED valve adjusting? I know you're supposed to hear a ticking noise at idle but what if you just grew acustomed to it as it got worse and worse? Sometimes it's hard to tell unless I pop the valve cover and measure gaps.
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Old July 5th, 2005, 10:39 AM   #30
 
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bump
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