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Old May 23rd, 2003, 08:20 PM   #1
 
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Powerslot rotor install

I recently installed some powerslot rotors and ceramic pads on my moms 02 v6 sedan. I figured for anyone not comfortable with brake jobs yet, Id show how easy this can be.
First off the tools you'll need:

19mm open end wrench
breaker bar [not needed, but makes it much easier]
phillips head screwdriver
c-clamp
socket wrench
14mm and 17mm sockets
safty wire
19mm lug wrench

Start off by removing the wheel. The first thing your going to remove from the brakes is the caliper itself. Using the 14mm socket and the 19mm open end, remove the two bolts holding the caliper to the bracket
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Powerslot rotor install-caliperbolts.jpg  
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Old May 23rd, 2003, 08:22 PM   #2
 
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Remove the caliper and hang from the suspension using the safty wire. The idea here is to not bend or stress the brake line attached to the caliper
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Old May 23rd, 2003, 08:24 PM   #3
 
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Remove the brake pads from the caliper bracket. Set the pads aside. Make note of the location of the shims attached to the pads.

Using the 17mm socket, remove the two bolts holding the bracket on.
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Old May 23rd, 2003, 08:25 PM   #4
 
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Now remove the two phillips head screws holding the brake rotor to the hub
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Old May 23rd, 2003, 08:27 PM   #5
 
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Install the new rotor. re-install the caliper bracket. Switch the shims from the old pads to the new pads. Make sure you use new pads with the new rotors. Place the pads in the bracket. Using the c-clamp, push the caliper piston back into the caliper. Then install the caliper.

Last edited by bored&stroked; May 23rd, 2003 at 08:32 PM..
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Old May 23rd, 2003, 08:28 PM   #6
 
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The finished product, with bright shiny glow from the work light behind me
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Old May 23rd, 2003, 08:39 PM   #7
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sticky the hell outta this laostradmous
thank you bored n stroked this is very informative, and perfectly written. A easy money saver now Thanks again.
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Old May 23rd, 2003, 10:38 PM   #8
 
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usually a phillips head screw driver wont work to remove the set screw. you usually need to use a impact screw drive and a bottle of mapp gass to heat up the set screw
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Old May 23rd, 2003, 10:43 PM   #9
 
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excellent install
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Old May 23rd, 2003, 10:48 PM   #10
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by Blazin036 on May 23rd, 2003 at 10:38 PM

usually a phillips head screw driver wont work to remove the set screw. you usually need to use a impact screw drive and a bottle of mapp gass to heat up the set screw
Good point. They are extremly difficult to remove, and I almost stripped one of them. I ended up using the breaker bar with a perfectly sized phillips head to remove them.
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Old May 24th, 2003, 01:01 AM   #11
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where and how much did you get these rotors for?

how about the improvements? hows braking feel now?
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Old May 24th, 2003, 12:41 PM   #12
 
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I purchased these rotors from a motorsports place in phoenix. They were $85 each I think? Braking at low speeds has not changed, at high speeds there is a improvment you can feel. Hardly touch the pedal above 60mph and these things haul you down quickly. I had a set on my 99 v6, and I put that car threw its paces. These rotors held up great
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Old May 26th, 2003, 06:02 PM   #13
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by Blazin036 on May 23rd, 2003 at 09:38 PM

usually a phillips head screw driver wont work to remove the set screw. you usually need to use a impact screw drive and a bottle of mapp gass to heat up the set screw
What exactly is mapp gass?
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Old May 26th, 2003, 08:35 PM   #14
 
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to take off the screws i had to use an impact driver...that ***** was siezed on there
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Old May 26th, 2003, 08:46 PM   #15
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by Drag-On on May 26th, 2003 at 06:02 PM

What exactly is mapp gass?
Its like a hotter burning propane torch.
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Old May 27th, 2003, 09:03 PM   #16
 
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qdumb question bro,

are the Powerslots alot bigger in terms of size vs. the stock caliper?
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Old May 27th, 2003, 09:19 PM   #17
 
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Stock size.

Sam
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Old May 30th, 2003, 08:38 PM   #18
 
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I did this last year front & back and ran it for about 35k

The disc brake screw you can get from majestic honda or any dealer for around 31 cents, i replaced all mine while i had the brakes off. I didn't notice any difference for my brake, even after a using the neuspeed stainless steel line. I had to switch back to stock brake after 1 year because i can't find a local shop to cut the slotted brakes.. so I got a set of ps and still looking for a place to cut them.. It's not bad, give it a nice look, and it's stock fit. Another good thing to do is buy new bleeder screw if your car has high mileage. I replaced everything at once.

22400 SCREW, FLAT (6X14) $0.31
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Old June 4th, 2003, 10:24 AM   #19
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Drag-On:Mapp Gas its in a bottle about 1/2liter used for small work heat up things, lossen bolts,nuts, its cheap about 3bucks then get the adapter that goes on it(30+) turn gas on and click instant torch, fire mmm yeah..I loosened a few stuck bolts with that a few times.

N.O. Accorderz:that varries I believe as most are very easy to remove, screwdriver no frills, also you don't really need the screws as they don't hold the rotor in place just even it out more. Lug nuts are what keep the rotor place and after time the rotors will become stuck on the hub with zero movement.

ForceSHO:try finding a import shop then ask them they should know you are right though larger chains pepboys,straus,etc. won't touch it some small shops either as they all know blanks and don't want responsibility if something goes wrong.
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Old June 4th, 2003, 02:26 PM   #20
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by KFL on June 4th, 2003 at 10:24 AM

Also you don't really need the screws as they don't hold the rotor in place just even it out more. Lug nuts are what keep the rotor place and after time the rotors will become stuck on the hub with zero movement.
I take it you've never done the brakes on these cars? The screws do need to be removed. They hold the rotor to the hub. The lugs are what provide the majority of the clamping force, but the screws are required
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Old July 13th, 2003, 03:10 PM   #21
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by bored&stroked on May 24th, 2003 at 07:41 PM

I purchased these rotors from a motorsports place in phoenix. They were $85 each I think? Braking at low speeds has not changed, at high speeds there is a improvment you can feel. Hardly touch the pedal above 60mph and these things haul you down quickly. I had a set on my 99 v6, and I put that car threw its paces. These rotors held up great
you're from pnix too!
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Old July 13th, 2003, 03:52 PM   #22
 
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Yeah he is. Believe it or not, there actually ARE members here in AZ.

Sam
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Old July 13th, 2003, 09:56 PM   #23
 
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So we all going to meet up somtime and cruise or what?
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Old July 30th, 2003, 02:49 PM   #24
 
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I just installed powerslots and hawk brake pads, thanks to your great "how to". I was ready to spend the money and have some wrench jockey do it, but I read your post and discovered how easy it could be. Great instructions. I was worried about the phillips head screw removal after reading all the horror stories about stripping and mapp gas. I took them off with no problem (perfectly fitted driver bit and a breaker bar). THanks a lot.

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Old August 6th, 2003, 01:29 AM   #25
 
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Can someone post up the torque spec for the screw and bolts??
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Old August 7th, 2003, 11:02 AM   #26
 
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hehehe Ok here I go: torque specs are not important

Well at least not for these components. Just tighten them down to a good setting that wont come loose I only worry about torque specs with stuff like internal engine components etc.
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Old August 7th, 2003, 05:59 PM   #27
 
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WHAT??????
I'm sure the caliper need to torque to spec. And I'm pretty sure if the srew on rotor is not tighten properly, rotor could easily warp.
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Old August 8th, 2003, 09:46 PM   #28
 
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Na, the rotor won't warp from the screws. The part that the screws clamp onto is pushed onto the backing plate, very sturdy. The part that warps is the part the pads ride on.

As for the caliper- the bolts just hold the thing to the bracket. AS long as they are tight they will be fine. I haven't torqued brake parts in over 5 years

Other parts, like wheel bearing nuts, suspension components, engine internals etc, those need to be torqued properly.
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Old August 16th, 2003, 10:39 AM   #29
 
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I'm about to do the install on the rears and I wanted to know if there were any special instructions regarding the parking break mechanism. I did the fronts a couple of weeks ago and had no problems, I just wanted to know what you did in the rear if you did anything different.
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Old August 18th, 2003, 04:27 PM   #30
 
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Never tried the rears
The fronts are the only parts of the brakes on these cars that have problems in my exsperience.
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