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Old May 31st, 2003, 09:31 PM   #1
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DIY Spark Plug Change for 00-03 AV6 with DIS

I am creating this thread to help anyone that is having any doubts about changing their spark plugs to either iridium, copper, platinum, etc. etc. This is for the 00-02 accord v6 with DIS (Direct Ignition System). Enjoy

Total process time: 20 minutes
Difficulty level: very easy
Parts Needed:

1) 1 multi-size allen key set
2) Ratchet with spark plug attachement (available at any automotive store)
3) 6" extension for ratchet
4) Wire type plug gapper
5) 1 bottle of Anti-sieze lubricant (available at any automotive store)
6) 6 spark plugs (I am using NGK iridium plugs for this, you may use other plugs)


Step 1: (make sure the engine is cold, you donít want to work on a hot engine)
Disconnect the battery, and check the spark plug gaps, and make sure it is no bigger than .044 (dont adjust a iridium/platinum tipped plug, they are very soft and may break). Once the plugs have been checked for accurate gap measurement, proceed to remove the ingition coil by using the allen key to remove the screws holding the coil. Once all the screws have been removed carefully remove the harnesses attached to the coils by squeezing the tab on the side (make sure you remember which harness went to which plug, or you may change the firing order).


Step 2:
Next pull out each coil, and place aside. Use the ratchet, extension, and plug socket to remove the plug in the housing. Dont wobble your hands to much. Take out all the plugs in the front.


Step 3:
Look at the differance in the old plug (left), and the new iridium tipped plug (right). Look at the color differance. EWW. Throw away the old plugs.


Step 4:
Clean the spark plug housing with compressed air if available (dont use a towel that may drop lint). Apply a meager coating of anti-sieze on the thread of the spark plug ( do not get any on the tip), just enough to cover the thread. If you have di-electric grease you may put some on the inside of the ignition coil, but I chose not too.


Step 5:
Place the spark plugs into the housing carefully, use the extension ratchet and the plug socket only to thread the plug back into the chamber. If you feel too much difficulty early while tightening, then you prolly have crossed the threads, just back it out and do it again. Be careful the threads are pretty soft and can easily be damaged (its and aluminum head, and if you damage the thread then you need to get a new head). Do not wobble your hands, and do not over tighten, once the washer head has touched the seal, proceed to make another ľ turn using the ratchet. If you have a torque wrench, then torque it to no more than 10lbs.


Step 6:
Repeat the same process for the back 3 spark plugs. It might be a tight squeeze for those with pudgy arms, and it might be beneficial to find someone with less pudgy hands to help you. Make sure you remember which harness went to which plug. And put the plugs in, close the ignition coil, and harness. And re-tighten all the screws again. Since the battery is already disconnected, you can reset the ecu by unplugging the #13 fuse on the passenger side fuse box for about a minute.


Step 7:
Put the fuse back in, and reconnect the battery. And enjoy drive for one week without pushing the new plugs so hard.

Last edited by abram2001; May 31st, 2003 at 10:00 PM..
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Old May 31st, 2003, 10:40 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally posted by abram2001 on May 31st, 2003 at 08:31 PM

Step 1: (make sure the engine is cold, you donít want to work on a hot engine)
Ahhhahahha OOPS THATS WHY I GOT BURNED! lol hahah jp.

Nice DIY. This is a good thread for beginners who've never worked with their V6 before.
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Old May 31st, 2003, 10:57 PM   #3
 
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Make this a Sticky
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Old May 31st, 2003, 11:05 PM   #4
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man those rear ones are a REAL BIATCH to do...
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Old June 1st, 2003, 02:21 AM   #5
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do you have to torque them? how would you do it if you dont have a torque wrench?
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Old June 1st, 2003, 08:09 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by azn010 on June 1st, 2003 at 01:21 AM

do you have to torque them? how would you do it if you dont have a torque wrench?
after you spin them by hand using just the extension wrench and plug socket, once you feel the metal gasket has hit the surface, then proceed to turn it 1/4 of the way, and then you are done.
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Old June 2nd, 2003, 12:02 AM   #7
 
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If you have the air compressor, spray out the plug hole BEFORE you loosen and remove the stock plug - you do NOT want anything to fall in the plug hole when you remove the plug!

Sam
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Old June 2nd, 2003, 12:03 AM   #8
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yes if you are spraying the area with compressed air, its best to do it before removing the old plug. Just so nothing falls into the cylinder.
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Old June 2nd, 2003, 12:40 AM   #9
 
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It's been awhile since I've posted a how-to write up

Nice abram! stuck!
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Old June 2nd, 2003, 01:02 AM   #10
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thanks everyone
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Old June 2nd, 2003, 01:29 AM   #11
 
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Excellent DIY! Just a minor safety nitpick: it might be a good idea to remove all hand and arm jewelry (rings, bracelets, etc.) before working on your car. True the engine is stopped and the battery is disconnected, so IN THEORY nothing could happen, but you just never know. Anyway, very nice writeup, we need more of these.
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Old June 5th, 2003, 07:46 PM   #12
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by abram2001 on June 1st, 2003 at 10:09 PM

after you spin them by hand using just the extension wrench and plug socket, once you feel the metal gasket has hit the surface, then proceed to turn it 1/4 of the way, and then you are done.
Or 13 lb/ft if you're using a torque wrench.

Nice write up Abram.
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Old June 6th, 2003, 02:00 PM   #13
 
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abram2001, what's the part number for that NGK Iridium plug?
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Old June 6th, 2003, 02:03 PM   #14
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Stock # = 2477
Part # = ZFR5FIX-11
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Old June 7th, 2003, 02:56 PM   #15
 
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Nice post,
Abram2001's & JonHsiung's posts have inspired me, so I did this today.
Piece-o-cake, took about 30 mins and ready to roll.
Thanks guys
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Old June 7th, 2003, 02:57 PM   #16
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np, I love helping fellow av6'ers help themselves. good luck with your future DIY's.
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Old June 7th, 2003, 03:31 PM   #17
 
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cool, grea writeup abram2001.
Always beneficial for you to be around. Hope to see more DIY instructions from you.


BTW: what is the recommended mileage to change the spark plugs?
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Old June 7th, 2003, 03:33 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally posted by HeavenOnAStick on June 7th, 2003 at 02:31 PM

cool, grea writeup abram2001.
Always beneficial for you to be around. Hope to see more DIY instructions from you.


BTW: what is the recommended mileage to change the spark plugs?
dont worry there will be more , and thanks for the kind words.

edit:
if its platinum, they last a really long time. But other metals I would change every 20,000 miles.
(our stock platinums, according to the book is good for 100000 miles )
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Old June 7th, 2003, 05:39 PM   #19
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when should denso's be changed with normal driving conditions?

Last edited by chiefy; June 7th, 2003 at 05:42 PM..
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Old June 7th, 2003, 05:47 PM   #20
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you dont have to do them for atleast 20,000 miles, but everyone has their own opinion. Since they are not such a money robber (well at least mine werent) its good to change them every few years. But you should always check one, before getting a new set. Sometimes you can go alot alot longer.
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Old June 25th, 2003, 05:59 PM   #21
 
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do I have to change spark plug seals?
I just found there are spark plug seals.
If I have to, how can I change them?
thanks.
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Old August 10th, 2003, 09:15 PM   #22
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by rick currie on June 2nd, 2003 at 03:29 AM

Excellent DIY! Just a minor safety nitpick: it might be a good idea to remove all hand and arm jewelry (rings, bracelets, etc.) before working on your car. True the engine is stopped and the battery is disconnected, so IN THEORY nothing could happen, but you just never know. Anyway, very nice writeup, we need more of these.
another thing about metal. When i was changng my valve cover gasket on my 96 accord lx about a year back. I was foolish in hangling the screws that held the cover on. I DROPPED on into one of the oil channels. I could not get it out, i couldnt even see it. My worst fear was that it went down so far that it would take a mechanic to take the head off and remove it(major labor $$$). My other fear was that it would block a channel so the oil couldnt pass, resulting in oil not gettint to valuable parts of the engine and well...you guess it...SEIZE!

BUT, luckily i used my moms car and went to advance auto parts and bought a "telescoping magnet pickup". Its basically an antenna(kinda that you would find on a portable boombox)with a magnet on the end. I stuck that bad boy in where i saw it enter and CLICK, it attatched itself and my worries were over. This took a good 5 hrs btw. The whole time my heart was beating two fold.

Hope this scares alot of people to be VERY VERY VERY VERY VERY X100 around engine openings such as valve cover, sparkplug hole, etc.

Just be careful!

Dave
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Old August 10th, 2003, 10:57 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally posted by accordlove on June 25th, 2003 at 07:59 PM

do I have to change spark plug seals?
I just found there are spark plug seals.
If I have to, how can I change them?
thanks.
all sparkplug, NO WAIT!! all good spark plugs already come with a metal gasket ring on the bottom of the threading to seat it pefectly.
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Old August 10th, 2003, 11:04 PM   #24
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and yes, everyone should have a telescoping magnet, it saved me alot of grief, and it only costs 1.99
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Old August 27th, 2003, 12:03 AM   #25
 
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ok ok so whats a better plug ... the NGK or the DENSO, and is iridium really the way to go on our v6's?
thanks
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Old September 4th, 2003, 07:18 PM   #26
 
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guys,
I am thinking about replacing my spark plugs. I am looking to get the best ones for increased gas mileage. My car has 50,200 miles and I am sure the orginal ones are in it. Are the iridium ones the best. PLease suggest some and online places if I can get them chanper.
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Old September 4th, 2003, 08:26 PM   #27
 
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FYI: When I changed the plugs in my past owned Accord, the socket would sometimes come off the 6" extension and get stuck down in the cylinder head. To ease this for future changes, I picked up a $2 locking 6" extension from Sears. This piece has a small locking ball mechanism on the end to prevent sockets from coming un-attached.
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Old September 23rd, 2003, 04:50 PM   #28
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NE more info for us 4 cyl cars....other than what you have already said
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Old December 7th, 2003, 01:52 PM   #29
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abram2001

Why do i need to disconnect the battery and reset the ECU? I read the manual and it didn't mention it.

Thanks in advance and btw, the detailed instruction is really helpful.
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Old December 7th, 2003, 01:57 PM   #30
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Well you dont NEED to reset the ecu after a plug change, because its not like a intake where you are bringing more air into the car easier. I just tend to reset my ecu after all mods

so you dont really need to reset it.
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