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Old February 24th, 2006, 12:00 AM   #1
 
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My DIY headers install

Tools youíll need:
~ Jack and 2 Jack stands
~ Torque Wrench
~ 3/8 or Ĺ drive ratchet
~ 10mm, 12mm, 14mm sockets (and some various others)
~ Open end wrenches (12mm, 14mm)
~ Socket extension(s)
~ Beefy flat head screw driver
~ WD-40
~ A friend

Disconnect your battery. You donít want the fans to turn on (or any other electrical mayhem going on). You may have your hands near the fan blades Ė if it kickís on while your there, plan on a trip to the ER for some stitches. Be safe - DISCONECT YOUR BATTERY!!!

Jack the car up on both sides and secure it by using jack stands. Make certain they are secure because you will be tugging on some bolts and rocking the car a bit. You donít want 3000 lbs falling on you.

Now remove the electric fan on the passenger side. There are 3 10mm bolts holding it to the radiator, and 3 electrical connections to remove. This will make accessing the manifold nuts much easier.

Remove the heat shields front and back by simply taking out the 3 bolts on each heat shield. Since your right there, go ahead and spray your 5 manifold nuts with WD-40 and let them soak for a bit. Youíll come back to them later.

Climb under your car (bring your open-end wrench, WD-40, and ratchet/sockets) and remove the 02 sensor. Start by tracing the wire back about 6Ē and disconnect it from the harness FIRST, then remove the sensor at the bung from the a-pipe with the open-ended wrench. DO NOT spray wd-40 near the o2 sensor! While your there, spray down the three bolts at the cat. Let that sit for a while you drink a beer.

Done? Okay, itís time to get to the REAL work.

Start off with the cat by removing the 3 bolts. They are a real PITA. Itís easiest to do this by first spitting at them and calling them foul names like, [email protected]%, &$^*(&, and !!!()%. After you get through verbally punishing them, you will need to use an open-end box-end wrench to help keep the nut on the other side from spinning. (Tip: bang the ratchet with your palm a few times to help break tension). As Iíve said already they are a real PITA, but you can do it. WARNING: do not strip out the bolt heads, youíll be sorry.

Next up, youíll need to remove the a-pipe from the manifolds. To do this, you will need an extension, your ratchet, and a 14mm socket. From the underside of the vehicle, remove the three bolts that connect the a-pipe to the manifolds. Do this front and back. It will be difficult to get around the engine mount, but it can be done. If you MUST, use a universal joint to get some flexibility. I donít suggest you do it because youíll loose some power to muscle the bolt off. When you get those off, the a-pipe drops right out. SWEET. All thatís left is the 2 manifolds now.

Youíll be removing the nuts for the manifolds from the top side of the engine bay. This part is easy. My nuts came off the manifold without even having to swear at them. Itís sad how ugly and inefficient the old setup was! Relax a second to admire the work youíve done so far. Drink another beer, and get ready for the grand finish.

On a side note: As much as youíd like to Ė DO NOT start the car with your manifolds off or with just the new headers on. This will cause problems now with the new setup, and could possibly even bend your valves!

Okay, finish your beer Ė smash the aluminum can against your forehead, grunt like Tim Allen, and letís get back to work.

Have a look at your new headers. Determine which header is the front and which is the back. On Comptech the logo is the front one, on OBX and Megan, the logo is the back header. Off brand EBay Headers have no logo Ė but you can figure it out, one will clear the engine mount, one wonít.

Now that you have determine which is which, put the gasket over the studs on the head, and slip the header over each side. LOOSELY add the 5 nuts back on by hand - make sure you donít cross thread them.

Once your upper headers are on, the hard part is to try to put the a-pipe on. It helps by using the emergency jack or your buddy to help keep it up in the air. Make sure the put the O-rings on between the headers and a-pipe. Try to line them up and throw the bolts in at the same time. I hope youíre good at multi-tasking. Itís tough to describe it any better than this, and itís one of the hardest parts: Have your buddy hold new a-pipe up to the new headers. When they are close to being lined up, pop a bolt through and putting a nut on the other side. The washer will go on the NUT side, not at the bolt head, BTW.

Once you get all the bolts through the a-pipe to manifold, youíll need to connect the a-pipe to the cat. Thatís easy because there is a flex tube right before the cat that lets you move it easily. Bolt the a-pipe to the cat and reinstall the 02 sensor Ė donít forget to plug it back into the harness, Einstein.

When everything is connected, you can go ahead and start tightening all the bolts. Cat first, then the a-pipe to manifold, then the manifold to the heads. Check everything over and make sure that the engine is clear of everything.

Lower the car and reconnect the battery. Check for stray parts again. If itís all clear, go ahead and start the car. Let it run for 5 mins and listen for any exhaust leaks. The Header should be a bit louder than the stock manifolds, but not a whole lot. If you have a loud tapping sound itís an exhaust leak somewhere. Youíll want to re-tighten that immediately before the engine really warms up. Once all stray leaks are taken care of, itís time to take it for a test spin. Donít worry Ė by the time you get to this stage, youíll be at the 1.5 hour mark and both the beers you drank earlier are worn off by now. Enjoy the feel of a little more torque down low. Youíll notice more and more power for about a week as your ECU learns.

Hope this helped some guys. Sorry I donít have any pics of it all. I may try to add some later if I get my digi-cam back. I welcome feedback or additions/modifications to my DIY if you have any.

~ Timmy
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Old February 24th, 2006, 12:08 AM   #2
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Or use Comptechs installation instructions:
http://comptechusa.com/store/media/i...ons/ins028.pdf

Also I recomend using Naval Jelly to eat away at the rust, makes things much easier especially on theose nuts that are nearest the cat, those can get stripped easy if you mess up.

Also for Comptech headers and maybe some other headers, they don't use studs that thread into the header but float in the holes and only the nuts are threaded on the studs which requires you to hold the otherside down while tightening the bottom which is not required on the stock exhaust manifold.

The above can be accomplished with the help of a friend but I would recomend that you buy some crows feet wrenches that attach to your ratchets and extensions. Use that to hold the top nut while using another ratchet to tighten the bottom.
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Old February 26th, 2006, 10:13 PM   #3
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great job

You guys are awesome, i wanted to try and install headers myself (Dont have them yet, hella broke rite now but in the future!)
and at least now i know where to begin, and if i botch up the job ill come back to this thread and SHAKE MY FIST!!
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Old February 26th, 2006, 10:37 PM   #4
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thanks for the diy shane. sure someone will need help somewhere in the future.
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Old February 26th, 2006, 11:38 PM   #5
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Haha that was a fun read Shane

You kept me reading with your humor.



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Old February 27th, 2006, 12:10 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timmybighands
Start off with the cat by removing the 3 bolts. They are a real PITA. Itís easiest to do this by first spitting at them and calling them foul names like, [email protected]%, &$^*(&, and !!!()%. After you get through verbally punishing them...
hahaha, wordddd, hahahaha, damn cat bolts. hey, where could i pick up some of this naval jelly?
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Old February 27th, 2006, 12:27 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sketch o5
hahaha, wordddd, hahahaha, damn cat bolts. hey, where could i pick up some of this naval jelly?
You can pick that stuff up at Lowes, Home Depot and Osh maybe some auto stores.
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Old February 27th, 2006, 12:30 AM   #8
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thanks, and is it actually called naval jelly? haha. its for boats or something, right?
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Old February 27th, 2006, 12:33 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timmybighands
Donít worry Ė by the time you get to this stage, youíll be at the 1.5 hour mark and both the beers you drank earlier are worn off by now.

~ Timmy


Not really I would say by the time you are done it would have been about 3 hours maybe a little more if its your first time ad things aren't going your way.

Even Comptech estimates it at 3 hours give or take.

edit:
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Old February 28th, 2006, 07:38 AM   #10
 
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if u have a hoist and air tools...30mins to install headers on a v6???
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Old February 28th, 2006, 10:35 AM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by Kiet
thanks for the diy shane. sure someone will need help somewhere in the future.
Cool! I didnt think anyone read. I'll take some photos when I crawl back under the hood so new guys can get a good idea of what everything will look like.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Doctor_X
Haha that was a fun read Shane

You kept me reading with your humor.
Baaahahahaha. Seriously - the worst part is getting the cat bolts off. I think it's easier if you intimidate them by spitting and calling names. Hey it always worked for me to scare away the bigger alpha-males when I was in pre-school. Either that or they thought I was retarded and couldnt bring themselves to beat up a handycapped kid.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kleptodathief
if u have a hoist and air tools...30mins to install headers on a v6???
Yeah, half hour is not hard to do at all if you have a lift and air tools. I fancy myself quite the DIY guy, and anyone with half a brain will not take the 3 hours Comptech suggests - even on hand tools. A real-life time frame is about 1.5 hours. On a scale of 1-10 (1 being an oil change, 10 being a motor swap) I give this a whopping 3.5.

Last edited by Timmybighands; February 28th, 2006 at 10:38 AM..
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Old February 28th, 2006, 10:47 AM   #12
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A good read for sure! Thanks for the DIY.
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Old March 1st, 2006, 10:47 AM   #13
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how is this diy? did you fabricate the headers?
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Old March 1st, 2006, 11:01 AM   #14
 
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how is this diy? did you fabricate the headers?
It'd like to be that tallented. But that's not in my deck of cards. It's just a DIY for the INSTALL of the aftermarket headers. It's not difficult, but it's reassuring for people to read about the process and know they can come back and ask questions if something isnt working out for them after they start. That's all.
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Old March 1st, 2006, 10:24 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Timmybighands
It'd like to be that tallented. But that's not in my deck of cards. It's just a DIY for the INSTALL of the aftermarket headers. It's not difficult, but it's reassuring for people to read about the process and know they can come back and ask questions if something isnt working out for them after they start. That's all.
oh, ok.
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Old March 2nd, 2006, 04:37 PM   #16
 
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What spec did you torque the manifold bolts to?
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Old March 2nd, 2006, 05:11 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2001Accordtyper
What spec did you torque the manifold bolts to?
Don't remember exactly but I tried to do it as much as I could using my two hands, one to hold the bolt from above and the other hand to tighten the nut onto the bolt from bellow.
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Old April 18th, 2007, 06:58 AM   #18
 
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I know this thread has been dead for a while but it was really helpful, thanks a bunch!
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Old March 19th, 2008, 03:50 PM   #19
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Link doesn't work. My understanding that Comptech closed down?
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Old March 23rd, 2008, 11:05 PM   #20
 
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what's a good place to buy headers from, besides Comptech? is ebay quality trusted?
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Old March 24th, 2008, 01:24 PM   #21
 
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I wouldn't trust Ebay headers unless you know for sure they are a name brand like Megan or DC sports, ect... with generic ebay headers you'll end up paying more in the end with having to replace them due to cracking or not fitting correctly. Better to just pay a little bit more now and go with a trusted brand than a lot more in the future.
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Old March 24th, 2008, 01:37 PM   #22
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Link doesn't work. My understanding that Comptech closed down?
They did close down, but are reopened now under different management. It's my understanding that they still have the same engineers and everything designing and building everything, the head guys just got replaced.
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Old March 24th, 2008, 01:43 PM   #23
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Their website doesn't look like it shows their products. I went to comptechusa.com
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Old March 24th, 2008, 01:50 PM   #24
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Their website doesn't look like it shows their products. I went to comptechusa.com
They changed it. Its http://www.ct-engineering.com/indexflash.htm now.

EDIT: I just visited their new site and it is up, it was down before the remodel. The link I gave has also changed. They removed their Install/Tech section.
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Old March 25th, 2008, 07:38 AM   #25
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Yeah you have to email them for instructions now.
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Old August 13th, 2008, 12:15 AM   #26
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i was wondering if you have any pics of the install?
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Old September 21st, 2008, 05:05 PM   #27
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Thought I would update this thread with some vital gasket info, because I always forget which stock ones work and so im writing it down now for myself and everyone else

All 3 gaskets for the Comptech headers are the same. They use 2.1" ID/2.5" OD gaskets which means you'll have to find gaskets within this range. The one that i found to work is the Honda Accord V6 pre-catback gasket, use three of these and your set.

Part # 18393-SH3-S00
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...E+%28V6%29
#15 in pic
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Old January 8th, 2015, 10:56 AM   #28
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Hey sorry for bumping an old thread, but maybe I didn't read correctly I didn't see any specifications, this thread is about installing the aftermarket tsx headers on the 4 cyl accord right? I'm just confused because I was told else where you would need to cut and weld because the headers are too long for the accord, so im just wondering where exactly would I need to cut. Thanks.
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Old January 12th, 2015, 03:54 PM   #29
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Hey sorry for bumping an old thread, but maybe I didn't read correctly I didn't see any specifications, this thread is about installing the aftermarket tsx headers on the 4 cyl accord right? I'm just confused because I was told else where you would need to cut and weld because the headers are too long for the accord, so im just wondering where exactly would I need to cut. Thanks.
No, this install is for the V6.
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Old January 13th, 2015, 07:21 AM   #30
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either that or they thought i was retarded and couldnt bring themselves to beat up a handycapped kid.
lololol
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