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Old August 21st, 2003, 04:52 PM   #1
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My CL-s tranny swap parts list and info

The other thread is getting pretty ugly so I am just going to post what is necessary for you to know about this swap including any trouble with fitting, parts availability and wiring. Please help to keep it clean!

I will be adding everything as I get time. Thank you.

Here is a link to the pictures of the progress.

http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4289714453

The car is finished and I have pictures and wintesses who have driven in it. I'll post those pics when I can.

Parts list: Parts we used were:

1. Acura trans
2. Acura cl-s starter
3. Acura cl-s bracket on the trans to hold the shift linkage ( I list this because it is a pain in the ass to get) We actually had this fabricated cos it is still unavailable. We are using the Honda 4cyl console and cables. If you put in the cls cables you might be able to use the stock Acura bracket (cable stay).

4. Acura axle seals
5. Acura Flywheel
6. Stock Honda axles, the Acura axles are the same part number.
7. Accord 4cyl console, shifter and shift linkage. (it fit right in)
8. Acura brake and shift pedal.
9. Acura clutch and pressure plate.
10. Acura throw out bearing.
11. The ECU was put into d1 and there is a push button starter to make the ECU think it is in park. (Button Idea thanks to Ei-ccord)
12. 2 Acura vibration mounts for the trans. There were already holes for a bracket that bolts to the CL trans. The mounts are huge, much larger than the Honda ones.
13. Stock Honda intermediate shaft
14. 92 Honda civic master cylinder.

The trans bolted up perfectly and actually is smaller and reduced the weight by about 150 LBS. the stock axles and most of the mounts and intermediate shaft was used. Acura was a ***** to deal with cos the dealers we called in so cali (4 of them) didn't know a damn thing. We eventually contacted Falconi's Acura in Las Vegas. They were really cool and helpful. We hade to have P/N 24600-pyz-000
fabricated we where told by Acura it could take 1 week to 1 year.

The ECU:
The ECUwas put into D1 and we used a push button starter to make it think it was in Neutral to get it started.
The VSS (Vehicle speed sensor) If the wheels are not moving or the ECU isn't hooked up to the correct sensors there is a saftey feature that lowers the rev limiter to 5000 RPM. There are some sensors that send certain signal when the car is moving at 3 MPH or higher. On the AT there is a main and a counter shaft. The ECU sends out a signal and gets one back from these sensors when the car is moving. The pulse is modified by a magnet in one of these sensors that sends the signal back to the ECU. As the wheels spin faster the signal gets "chopped" up by the magnet and the ECU just reads that. It is a saftey feature that Honda put in the keep people from Neutral dropping. 5000 is what it hits at.
There was more to this; it took some help from friends at Honda of America in torrance who gave me specifics about the internals and pinout of the sensors for the Honda and the Acura.

Problems so far:

1. Breaking engine mounts. My car is supercharged so this might be the reason but I broke the mount near the passenger side. Totally destroyed it within 3 weeks, it was so cool. I got the new one form our friends Faloconi's Acura in LV. $62.91

2. The reverse lockout or gear selector selenoid was pretty much unusable when the trans arrived. It costs 200.00 wholsale for a new one. Also the AT ECU does not have a connector for this cos AT doesn't use it. What we are going to do is use a switch. When it is on the car will go into reverse when it is off the reverse is locked out. I was drivning and went form 4th to 6th but missed and grinded reverse. It felt like any other manual does when you do this but any other manual would have had this selenoid. Mine didn't so I wasted reverse... another week without my car and had to pull the engine out again. Also found we had destroyed completely the pilot bearing. It was pretty much un recognizable we only knew what it was cos the pilot bearing was missing. We just found peices of it. So when you put a trans back onto the engine, make sure it is all lined up and goes on fairly easy. Don't use the bolts to get it on cos there is probably something mis alligned.and you could break something like a pilot bearing.

3. Make sure the bolts for the pressure are not too long. the pressure plate and flywheel for the CLS look way strange so it is hard to tell.
Make sure you either use the bolts that are used by Acura or they are the right length.

4. The clutch pedal has two bolts. There is a brace but it will not fit. One of the two bolts over about a period of 1 month starts coming loose and the pedal flexes a lot, this mean that as you push the pedal down it flexes too much before the clutch starts engaging. Shifting get kind of hard or impossible. Use locktite or better yet what we are doing is making a metal plate, like a backing. After we bolt that down behind the pedal flange it should give it some more support.

Again I wanted to let you know that the count is up to 5 Acura dealers in SoCal who screwed us over.
Acura in Pasadena, orderd pilot bearing, 2 days later went to pick it up and they never even placed the order.

We called all the Acura dealers to see if we could get the slider I tore up for reverse, they tried to sell me the whole thing for 411.00
I called Falconi's and they over nighted me what I needed for 91.00.


UPDATE 12/3/03
Just got my Haltech E6x Installed. It wasnt too bad for a first time. Took a while just need to tune it.

Update on Sensors.. For the VSS. The main shaft uses a stock Accord sensor. For the counter shaft try using one of a 98 civic. see what you get! we didnt want to let this info out earlier but I am not sure if anyone will be doing this for a while so her you go.
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Old August 22nd, 2003, 09:06 AM   #2
 
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Eric,

This is great. Please let me know if you need to add anything to this thread. I am going to close it so that it does end up being 10 pages long. You might actually be able to edit your posting, if not I will help.
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Old November 6th, 2003, 04:24 PM   #3
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whats the latest news eric?......
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Old November 6th, 2003, 07:19 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally posted by ooits34oo
whats the latest news eric?......
2 weeks.. I have a suprise.
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Old November 6th, 2003, 07:20 PM   #5
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by jimmyrecluse on November 6th, 2003 at 06:19 PM

2 weeks.. I have a suprise.
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Old December 23rd, 2003, 12:27 PM   #6
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how about a month plus??? what's the surprise?
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Old December 23rd, 2003, 06:30 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by mlrtimev6
how about a month plus??? what's the surprise?
You have to read the Dyno Thread ... but here's a link.

The Surprise
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Old March 16th, 2004, 03:45 PM   #8
 
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umm where can i get the tranny
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Old April 15th, 2004, 09:32 AM   #9
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Sorry if this question has been asked, but how much did the whole process cost?
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Old May 3rd, 2004, 07:19 PM   #10
 
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id like to know this too

Eric, are all of the bugs fixed out of it like the grinding reverse thing since u got the new ecu

how has it been getting ur company started? u gonna continue on the project or is it done?
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Old May 4th, 2004, 11:51 AM   #11
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GRRRR OK.. I get A LOT of PMs asking if all the bugs are worked out..


THERE ARE AND WHERE NO BUGS! Everything went together easy except for the wiring. The wiring just had to be figured out but there where no bugs no problems.

I BROKE REVERSE. I put it in reverse when the car was moving forward trying to go from 4th to 6th gear.

After all... the car feels like it was made with that trans in it.
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Old May 4th, 2004, 01:59 PM   #12
 
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oh sorry
i guess its the way u worded it.

how much did it all cost?
how long did it take to install hours wise?

ur project is awsome.
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Old May 4th, 2004, 03:30 PM   #13
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It cost me under 2000 cos I paid cost for all parts.

The swap took one month because we had to wait for parts from Acura.
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Old May 4th, 2004, 06:23 PM   #14
 
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????u got paid for buying the parts??????

sorry im realy gonna do this so i want all the details and i think there r several here who wanna know too.
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Old May 4th, 2004, 07:06 PM   #15
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I believe what he meant was that he purchased the parts at cost, instead of at retail price.

Cost of an item is what it's actually purchased for before being marked up to what the consumer pays for it which is the retail price.

Like the CL-S Tranny my cost the dealer 1500.00, but they sale it to you for the retail price of 3000.00.

I also have the luxury of being able to buy parts at Cost.
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Old May 4th, 2004, 07:14 PM   #16
 
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aww that blows
that means all that stuff he listed costs twice as much
how does one go about having this "luxury"??
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Old May 4th, 2004, 07:19 PM   #17
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Not always double the price but always a profitable markup.

To answer the 2nd question, "I got da hook up, holla if you hear me! UUHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!

-Master P
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Old May 4th, 2004, 09:08 PM   #18
 
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what is the year on the transmission? does it matter?
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Old May 4th, 2004, 09:15 PM   #19
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Only one year of manuals in a CL-S and that's 2003.
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Old May 5th, 2004, 11:08 AM   #20
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You are all correct.

I fixed my error. I paid cost. I got the trans used 1050 miles on it for 999.00 off of a test car. Everything else was either made, bought brand new, stock Honda v6 parts, or stock Honda 4cyl parts from the yard.
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Old May 5th, 2004, 05:14 PM   #21
 
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o btw are all the other parts from acura 2003?
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Old May 5th, 2004, 06:15 PM   #22
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NO! Read my POST. Get the trans and I will help you.


DO IT!


But be ready for the headaches. It works, but like all custom ****e getting there is rough.
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Old August 23rd, 2004, 10:49 PM   #23
 
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Cost of all the parts that is in your lists.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmyrecluse
The other thread is getting pretty ugly so I am just going to post what is necessary for you to know about this swap including any trouble with fitting, parts availability and wiring. Please help to keep it clean!

I will be adding everything as I get time. Thank you.

Here is a link to the pictures of the progress.

http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4289714453

The car is finished and I have pictures and wintesses who have driven in it. I'll post those pics when I can.

Parts list: Parts we used were:

1. Acura trans
2. Acura cl-s starter
3. Acura cl-s bracket on the trans to hold the shift linkage ( I list this because it is a pain in the ass to get) We actually had this fabricated cos it is still unavailable. We are using the Honda 4cyl console and cables. If you put in the cls cables you might be able to use the stock Acura bracket (cable stay).

4. Acura axle seals
5. Acura Flywheel
6. Stock Honda axles, the Acura axles are the same part number.
7. Accord 4cyl console, shifter and shift linkage. (it fit right in)
8. Acura brake and shift pedal.
9. Acura clutch and pressure plate.
10. Acura throw out bearing.
11. The ECU was put into d1 and there is a push button starter to make the ECU think it is in park. (Button Idea thanks to Ei-ccord)
12. 2 Acura vibration mounts for the trans. There were already holes for a bracket that bolts to the CL trans. The mounts are huge, much larger than the Honda ones.
13. Stock Honda intermediate shaft
14. 92 Honda civic master cylinder.

The trans bolted up perfectly and actually is smaller and reduced the weight by about 150 LBS. the stock axles and most of the mounts and intermediate shaft was used. Acura was a ***** to deal with cos the dealers we called in so cali (4 of them) didn't know a damn thing. We eventually contacted Falconi's Acura in Las Vegas. They were really cool and helpful. We hade to have P/N 24600-pyz-000
fabricated we where told by Acura it could take 1 week to 1 year.

The ECU:
The ECUwas put into D1 and we used a push button starter to make it think it was in Neutral to get it started.
The VSS (Vehicle speed sensor) If the wheels are not moving or the ECU isn't hooked up to the correct sensors there is a saftey feature that lowers the rev limiter to 5000 RPM. There are some sensors that send certain signal when the car is moving at 3 MPH or higher. On the AT there is a main and a counter shaft. The ECU sends out a signal and gets one back from these sensors when the car is moving. The pulse is modified by a magnet in one of these sensors that sends the signal back to the ECU. As the wheels spin faster the signal gets "chopped" up by the magnet and the ECU just reads that. It is a saftey feature that Honda put in the keep people from Neutral dropping. 5000 is what it hits at.
There was more to this; it took some help from friends at Honda of America in torrance who gave me specifics about the internals and pinout of the sensors for the Honda and the Acura.

Problems so far:

1. Breaking engine mounts. My car is supercharged so this might be the reason but I broke the mount near the passenger side. Totally destroyed it within 3 weeks, it was so cool. I got the new one form our friends Faloconi's Acura in LV. $62.91

2. The reverse lockout or gear selector selenoid was pretty much unusable when the trans arrived. It costs 200.00 wholsale for a new one. Also the AT ECU does not have a connector for this cos AT doesn't use it. What we are going to do is use a switch. When it is on the car will go into reverse when it is off the reverse is locked out. I was drivning and went form 4th to 6th but missed and grinded reverse. It felt like any other manual does when you do this but any other manual would have had this selenoid. Mine didn't so I wasted reverse... another week without my car and had to pull the engine out again. Also found we had destroyed completely the pilot bearing. It was pretty much un recognizable we only knew what it was cos the pilot bearing was missing. We just found peices of it. So when you put a trans back onto the engine, make sure it is all lined up and goes on fairly easy. Don't use the bolts to get it on cos there is probably something mis alligned.and you could break something like a pilot bearing.

3. Make sure the bolts for the pressure are not too long. the pressure plate and flywheel for the CLS look way strange so it is hard to tell.
Make sure you either use the bolts that are used by Acura or they are the right length.

4. The clutch pedal has two bolts. There is a brace but it will not fit. One of the two bolts over about a period of 1 month starts coming loose and the pedal flexes a lot, this mean that as you push the pedal down it flexes too much before the clutch starts engaging. Shifting get kind of hard or impossible. Use locktite or better yet what we are doing is making a metal plate, like a backing. After we bolt that down behind the pedal flange it should give it some more support.

Again I wanted to let you know that the count is up to 5 Acura dealers in SoCal who screwed us over.
Acura in Pasadena, orderd pilot bearing, 2 days later went to pick it up and they never even placed the order.

We called all the Acura dealers to see if we could get the slider I tore up for reverse, they tried to sell me the whole thing for 411.00
I called Falconi's and they over nighted me what I needed for 91.00.


UPDATE 12/3/03
Just got my Haltech E6x Installed. It wasnt too bad for a first time. Took a while just need to tune it.

Update on Sensors.. For the VSS. The main shaft uses a stock Accord sensor. For the counter shaft try using one of a 98 civic. see what you get! we didnt want to let this info out earlier but I am not sure if anyone will be doing this for a while so her you go.
Hi, I just want to know how much did all the parts cost? thanks, I am going to be doing these swap with my friends because I miss driving a stick shift and the accord v6 gen that I had didn't have a 6 speed manuel transmission for my 2001 accord. Thanks
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Old August 24th, 2004, 12:41 PM   #24
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I got parts cheap. At cost. So I dont know how much retail is though. Maybe under 2k
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Old September 26th, 2004, 06:58 PM   #25
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Okay, if I were to bring you a type S motor/ecu/6 speed tranny, do you think your shop could do the rest? Including looking for all the other necessary parts? I live in southern Cali as well, so that is why I am asking. Figured it might be better for me to take it to a shop that has done this swap before and know what to expect already. I have the money ready. What should the final cost of this operation run me?
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Old September 26th, 2004, 08:36 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cocoa
Okay, if I were to bring you a type S motor/ecu/6 speed tranny, do you think your shop could do the rest? Including looking for all the other necessary parts? I live in southern Cali as well, so that is why I am asking. Figured it might be better for me to take it to a shop that has done this swap before and know what to expect already. I have the money ready. What should the final cost of this operation run me?
yes PM me
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Old February 17th, 2007, 09:04 AM   #27
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i need help on the wiring part. my swap is complete just no vtec,speedo, and 5k rev..jimmy can you help??
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Old October 7th, 2010, 01:50 PM   #28
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2003 cl 3.2 6spd transmission

ONly the CL-s manual box is compatible??? I have sourced a 2003 CL 3.2 6SPD TRANSMISSION, will this work with my 6th generations V6 engine??
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Old October 7th, 2010, 11:44 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by squi_j View Post
ONly the CL-s manual box is compatible??? I have sourced a 2003 CL 3.2 6SPD TRANSMISSION, will this work with my 6th generations V6 engine??
yes the 3.2cl 6spd tranny will work and you can use the 6th gen accord 5spd shifter box
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Old October 12th, 2010, 04:53 PM   #30
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Quote:
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yes the 3.2cl 6spd tranny will work and you can use the 6th gen accord 5spd shifter box
sweet thanx so i have from 2003 3.2L CL Acura (donor)
1. 6sp TRANSMISSION
2. STARTER
3. ECM
4. ENGINE WIRE HARNESS
5. CLUTHC WITH FLYWHEEL
6. PEDAL ASSEMBLEY WITH 3 PEDALS
7. SLAVE CYLNDER
8. SHIFTER LINKAGE AND SHIFTER
9. CLUTCH LINES AND ALL BOLTS and washers

This richie V6 harness i see everyone referring to as mandatory?? how do i acquire it?? and will that be my last item based on my listed parts????? thanx a lot for your input ray
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