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Old January 19th, 2012, 10:27 PM   #1
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Fitment help needed. FITMENT GURUS HELP

ok so im just getting back from my shop and we're trying to fit some 18x9.5 +15 rims. They're MB Battles and they're wrapped in 215/40/18 nankang ns-2's. Having issues with getting them to fit properly so need some of you guys (kevin, keith, jake, brad, etc...) to chime in. Current suspension setup is function form type 1's and i only have a camber kit in the rear. I have ingalls arms in the rear (38720 - SmartArm Adjustable Link, Camber/Toe, Rubber Bushings - Ingalls Engineering Co., Inc.)
Currently I don't have a camber kit in the front. I do have all my fenders pulled and trimmed. They have been pulled to the max without molesting the paint and metal. Heres how they look now in the front.






The rears were super close to fitting, but the camber arms that I had weren't the proper ones.
Now I've been told that the proper camber kit in the rear is the one that adjusts from the top. Would these work okay? (Part Number MEG-6285)

What do I need in the front to make these rims fit? Thanks in Advance guys!
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Old January 19th, 2012, 10:29 PM   #2
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Oh and btw the fender pull was done by SonicMS. They said it was pulled to the "max" and this was the most they could do without cracking the paint and making my fenders look wavy and wrinkly.
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Old January 19th, 2012, 10:42 PM   #3
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Prepare to pull your fenders to high heaven lol.



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Old January 19th, 2012, 10:48 PM   #4
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Is your car at the final ride height in the pics, or is it resting on the lift? If you want to even come close to stuffing those specs in there, you gotta go lower to capitalize on the natural negative camber.

I can't imagine that you would run into any issues getting 'em under there as long as you get it closer to the tarmac

Props on not molesting your fenders too buddy! If you want to keep them clean (especially the front), your best bet is to get a camber kit and run a little bit more than natural will give you.
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Old January 19th, 2012, 11:01 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doctor_X View Post
Prepare to pull your fenders to high heaven lol.
lol, but I want my fenders to look good, dont want the fenders looking like $hit. Kevin are you running a camber kit in the front? Also any close ups of your front fenders? I'd like to forward them to the shop.

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Originally Posted by MoneyPit View Post
Is your car at the final ride height in the pics, or is it resting on the lift? If you want to even come close to stuffing those specs in there, you gotta go lower to capitalize on the natural negative camber.

I can't imagine that you would run into any issues getting 'em under there as long as you get it closer to the tarmac

Props on not molesting your fenders too buddy! If you want to keep them clean (especially the front), your best bet is to get a camber kit and run a little bit more than natural will give you.
they had it in the air because the fender would have rested on the shoulder of the tire. They said the rims were sticking out in the front about 1-2 inches and even if I were to go lower I'd only get about .5 to 1 degree more negative camber. What camber kit should I use in the front. What camber kit are you running in the front Jake? Also any close ups of your front fenders Jake? I'd like to pass on the photos to the shop.

Thanks in Advance guys! Really appreciate all your help.
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Old January 20th, 2012, 12:31 AM   #6
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needs to be lower
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Old January 20th, 2012, 12:36 AM   #7
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needs to be lower
tim do i need a camber kit?
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Old January 20th, 2012, 01:14 AM   #8
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u got more poke than me with 215's
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Old January 20th, 2012, 01:54 AM   #9
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It's hard to judge from the pics since we can't see exactly how close you are to fitting the fronts at your desired ride height, but if you're not using a camber kit (yet!) then you need to be extremely low to take advantage of the natural camber that will occur (as Jake has alluded to). Did the shop actually attempt to slam the car & actually saw the fenders resting on the shoulder of the tire, or did they assume that? Just curious.

So either

a) slam the F#*! out of your car
or
b) invest in a camber kit
or
c) pull the fenders more

Eventually you'll get this squared away and they'll fit awesome, you'll just need to decide what aspect(s) you want to focus on between lowering more, pulling more, or more camber. Keep us updated!
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Old January 20th, 2012, 01:55 AM   #10
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For one, your car has to be slammed on those. I'm not running camber kits front or rear, but because of my ride height my front camber is lower 3s and my rear camber is almost -4. My front fenders look kind of molested and a bit wavy, but the rears are pretty clean overall with the pull I have. Just depends on how you want to set up your car in the end. I opted for non-adjustable stock arms and just slammed my car on its ballsack, vs. those who camber their wheels in more so they don't have to pull their fenders as much. You trade off your alignment for your fenders, in my opinion. If your car is like not tucking a good amount of those tires though, find a way to go lower.



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Old January 20th, 2012, 09:56 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdeitemeyer View Post
It's hard to judge from the pics since we can't see exactly how close you are to fitting the fronts at your desired ride height, but if you're not using a camber kit (yet!) then you need to be extremely low to take advantage of the natural camber that will occur (as Jake has alluded to). Did the shop actually attempt to slam the car & actually saw the fenders resting on the shoulder of the tire, or did they assume that? Just curious.

So either

a) slam the F#*! out of your car
or
b) invest in a camber kit
or
c) pull the fenders more

Eventually you'll get this squared away and they'll fit awesome, you'll just need to decide what aspect(s) you want to focus on between lowering more, pulling more, or more camber. Keep us updated!
They said that it touched but it looked like if they were to adjust the height I could get these suckers to fit. So I guess I'm just gonna attempt to go lower to save money.

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For one, your car has to be slammed on those. I'm not running camber kits front or rear, but because of my ride height my front camber is lower 3s and my rear camber is almost -4. My front fenders look kind of molested and a bit wavy, but the rears are pretty clean overall with the pull I have. Just depends on how you want to set up your car in the end. I opted for non-adjustable stock arms and just slammed my car on its ballsack, vs. those who camber their wheels in more so they don't have to pull their fenders as much. You trade off your alignment for your fenders, in my opinion. If your car is like not tucking a good amount of those tires though, find a way to go lower.
I'm trying to keep my fenders looking as smooth as possible but I'm worried that if I go too low the tire will end up molesting the fender on hard turns or on big bumps.
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Old January 20th, 2012, 10:28 AM   #12
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agree w/ what the guys say. also be patient, the fitment game takes time, calculations and money to get the look you want.

it was the same w/ my 7th gen. having to get another set of upper control arms for camber in the rear, changing my tires twice, changing my springs to go really low and two trips to the alignment shop. i was almost working on my car daily to make things work. it wasn't easy and it wasn't cheap.

i may also suggest a different set of tires for the front. even tho they 215's they look round and don't stretch much IMO.
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Old January 20th, 2012, 10:33 AM   #13
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To get to where you need to be with those specs you'll have to either camber your wheels in a lot, or pull your fenders in more, in my opinion.



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Old January 20th, 2012, 10:49 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1bLwN_AcCoRd View Post
I'm trying to keep my fenders looking as smooth as possible but I'm worried that if I go too low the tire will end up molesting the fender on hard turns or on big bumps.
Unfortunately, this is just part of the game. I just bought two new front fenders because my driver front was raped from rubbing. If you want pristine front fenders with your specs, you're going to have to run some camber.

BTW, those camber arms you posted above are appropriate, I'm not sure why your guys are telling you otherwise. They should give you the adjustability you need to fit your rears right now
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Old January 20th, 2012, 11:19 AM   #15
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it's easier and less negative camber w/ the upper control arm camber kit than the lower ones jake. if his tire is resting on the quarter, it's less negative camber to pull the tire in w/ the upper control arm than pushing the bottom of the tire outwards w/ the lower control arms. coz it will take massive camber for the top of the tire to move away from the quarter.
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Old January 20th, 2012, 06:15 PM   #16
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Quote:
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Unfortunately, this is just part of the game. I just bought two new front fenders because my driver front was raped from rubbing. If you want pristine front fenders with your specs, you're going to have to run some camber.

BTW, those camber arms you posted above are appropriate, I'm not sure why your guys are telling you otherwise. They should give you the adjustability you need to fit your rears right now
That's what I thought Jake but they told me those arms are more for correcting camber than adding additional negative camber. I don't mind running a little more camber if it means keeping my fenders looking smooth.
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it's easier and less negative camber w/ the upper control arm camber kit than the lower ones jake. if his tire is resting on the quarter, it's less negative camber to pull the tire in w/ the upper control arm than pushing the bottom of the tire outwards w/ the lower control arms. coz it will take massive camber for the top of the tire to move away from the quarter.
To me it seems like it wouldn't make a difference where you make the adjustment top or bottom your moving the wheel in the same direction in a different manner.
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Old January 20th, 2012, 06:58 PM   #17
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true. same direction, different manner but different measurements also. you may have -6 camber for using lower control arm to clear your quarters vs -3 camber for using upper control arms.
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Old January 20th, 2012, 06:59 PM   #18
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I definitely agree Jowell, if the OP needed a ton of camber, the top arms would be more ideal. But with the specs he is sportin', natural camber with the additional 1.5 degrees should be more than enough to get those things fitting properly. Changing from the bottom won't "sink" the top of the wheels into the well, but it will put them at an angle that will change the suspension geometry when it articulates so that it will clear the fender.
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Old January 23rd, 2012, 09:45 PM   #19
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after closely inspecting my fenders in the sun, it seems like the fenders were just trimmed and pinched. The fenders have not been pulled... so I will be having them pull the fenders this week. thanks for the help guys
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Old January 23rd, 2012, 09:49 PM   #20
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Wait, what? Trimmed and pinched? I'd recommend talking to Jake (MoneyPit) before you start that pull. It may save you time, money, and headaches in the future. If keeping the fenders looking as OEM as possible, his methods may be what you're really wanting. Good luck though!
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Old January 31st, 2012, 02:03 PM   #21
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are you guys still running your fender linings? mine is annoying the hell out of me because after the fenders were trimmed and pinched the lining doesnt attach to them any longer so they just hang and rub when i go over bumps and driveways..
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Old January 31st, 2012, 02:31 PM   #22
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You could opt to still use your fender liners, but you'll need to relocate (create new) mounting points that the liner can attach to as well as probably trim a portion of the inner liner to accommodate the wider wheel/tire setup. Most guys don't bother and just ditch the fender liners though, it's just a matter of preference. I ditched mine, but I may try to fit another set on eventually. I hate the thought of road grime getting into the door/sideskirt crevices due to a lack of liners. Message MoneyPit and ask him about his setup, I'm sure he managed to keep his liners with just minor modifications.
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Old January 31st, 2012, 03:40 PM   #23
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I don't have mine but only because it got ripped out for the most part. I think it looks better with it in though.



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Old March 11th, 2012, 07:59 PM   #24
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FINALLY took the time to get these things to work, but after driving it for less than a day I'm starting to rethink if I should keep this setup.I know you have to Pay to Play, but My control arms or ball joints are slapping the towers and it seems to happen on EVERY little bump or crack in the road. I've heard that this happens a lot when you go over pretty big bumps and dips, but it happens on even the smallest crack in the road.
My camber specs are -4.4/-4.3 and -5.4/-5.1.
Heres how the car sits as of now.



the front fitment


Rear Fitment before adjustments




big ups to all the guys who've helped me on this forum, Kevin, Johnson Brad, and specially Jake. Without all your guy's advice this wouldnt have worked.
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Old March 11th, 2012, 08:06 PM   #25
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^ That looks so good..i love the way it looks now
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Old March 11th, 2012, 11:20 PM   #26
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^ That looks so good..i love the way it looks now
thank you sir.
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Old March 12th, 2012, 01:01 AM   #27
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I know you have to Pay to Play, but My control arms or ball joints are slapping the towers and it seems to happen on EVERY little bump or crack in the road.
Yup, pay to play, low and slow, etc check all that apply

Also if anything I would say you need to go a bit lower on the front



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Old March 12th, 2012, 01:09 AM   #28
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Are you using stock control arms and ball joints? Sorry to hear about the strut tower taking a beating from the bumps, but I guess that can be common under some circumstances. Ingalls makes a set of adjustable control arms that may provide some help, or you could just let Kevin hack away at your strut tower until your control arms have room to move freely. lol
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Old March 12th, 2012, 01:32 AM   #29
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Hey there Brad, I haven't modded my towers quite yet. Hopefully soon though.

Car looks good.



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Old March 12th, 2012, 01:34 AM   #30
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Haha I know, you can use this set of towers as practice.
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