Install: 03-05 Rear Carbon Fiber Trunk and weight differences between OEM and CF - Honda Accord Forum : V6 Performance Accord Forums
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Old August 31st, 2017, 07:40 PM   #1
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Install: 03-05 Rear Carbon Fiber Trunk and weight differences between OEM and CF

disclaimer: install at your own risk. the scale i used is not 100% accurate but a general estimate

VIS Racing currently offers 2 styles, with or without OEM Tail lights


2003-2005 Honda Accord 4Dr Oem Style Carbon Fiber Trunk - $922.00 MSRP
Searching for Honda Accord Trunk? We make the best in quality and selection. Vis Racing Sports Inc.

2003-2005 Honda Accord JDM 4Dr Oem style Carbon Fiber Trunk with Tail Light - $980.00 MSRP
Searching for Honda Accord Trunk? We make the best in quality and selection. Vis Racing Sports Inc.

i am not 100% sure and would check w/VIS Racing but if you do not like drilling holes for the Tail lights on the trunk, the 2nd option may be the way to go on this. hopefully they are pre-drilling the Tail light screw holes now


weight comparison, again these are rough estimates as my scale is quite old:

2003-2005 4DR. OEM Trunk weighs in at around 20 lbs, this number will be different for the Coupe and should be lighter for 2006-2007 since you guys don't have tail lights on your trunk and the shape is different as well:



the VIS Racing 03-05 4dr. Rear Trunk weighed in at 10 lbs without tails installed which shouldn't add much weight:




Tools Required:
Ratchet
Ratchet extension (optional)
10mm bit
8mm bit

Flathead screwdrivers 1 or 2


1. remove the Push Tabs by inserting a Flat head screwdriver and then using pliers or however you want. this style is pretty sturdy




2. there are 12 total push tabs locations or i've used the white plastic clips as well and there are wider push tabs and thinner ones (pictured)



&




3. there are 4 10mm bolts that are mainly holding the trunk. 2 on each side, i would deal with these later and have a friend or loosing them fully after loosing all four bolts in unison so as not to drop the trunk, etc.




4. 2 more 10mm bolts to remove




5. this part is my least favorite since these black plastic holders for the wiring and trunk cable usually aren't the strongest on a 10+ yr. vehicle so if they break during removal, i wouldn't worry too much as they can be replaced or reattached in another way




6. trunk latch consists of 2 x 10mm bolts (yellow) and the cable plus wire connector (red)




7. these plastic clips holding the wiring are much more easier to remove w/pliers or simply pushing them out




8. 1 x 10mm bolt holding the Key Hole, 1 metal rod attached, 1 connector. in the rectangle shape is the tail light showing 2 connectors that will need to be pushed in and pulled out




9. more plastic clip holders that will be fairly easy to remove




10. the other 2 plastic clips holding the wiring and cable on the other side which is a bit of a pain to remove and can snap




11. the tail light on the trunk consists or 2 x 8mm bolts, 1 x 10 mm bolt, and 1 white tab




12. up close pic of the trunk cable, blue part pulls out w/a bit of gentle force, the ball at the end of the cable comes out and both should be removed by hand




13. another close up pic of the 2 x 10mm bolts holding the Trunk latch & 1 x 10mm bolt holding the key plus the blue connector that needs to be pushed in a removed




14. once key hole bolt is removed, pop off the white holder and lift up to remove the metal rod





15. you will need to take out the license plate bulb holder along with bulb



bulb holder cover removed:




16. unclip the bulb holder from the wiring




17. this is a bit tricky but i lifted from the trunk latch side by twisting it out gently, then after having detached the rod from the trunk key, you can pull it out




18. i was in a time crunch but at this point, the whole wiring harness should simply be able to come out starting from the key hole or passenger side all the way back to the drivers side

install everything in reverse order and enjoy!
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Old August 31st, 2017, 07:40 PM   #2
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couple things:

1. Carbon Fiber hoods are usually almost always sit like OEM or flush whether it be VIS Racing, Seibon, etc.

Trunks based on my experience and other Carbon Fiber parts like Fenders are almost never 100% OEM flush

the driver side tail light sticks out a tad bit but i may be able to adjust the bolts and make it sit better


2. Key Hole wasn't done again to sit flush and will need to be shaved some on the under side along with the license plate bulb holder. i would put some dumdum sealer on both areas:

PRO FORM - Products


3. my Key Fob trunk stopped working after install but it opens fine from the inside driver side latch i will have to figure out once i'm back in denver from business.

also, if you use your driver side trunk latch vs. key fob, the trunk will now fling open since it is half the weight of OEM. i almost always use my key fob but if you only use the latch inside, you may want to ease some tension some how on the 2 rods going across the upper underside that makes the trunk open


4. last but not least, in regards to your emblems, i would use a plastic paint spreader or something made w/plastic as not to scratch the underside of your trunk and/or possibly breaking/cracking your emblems:




depending on what emblems you have, redoing the double sided tape for the ACCORD will be the most tedious. i would recommend 3m double sided tape 30 lb. BIG roll if you can find it, and clean with Alcohol to remove oils and such for maximum adhesion

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Old October 2nd, 2017, 05:31 PM   #3
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Looking forward to seeing it installed. Good work.
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Old October 23rd, 2017, 09:50 PM   #4
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thanks! i finished it that day, took off for an 8 hr. road trip next day...couldn't tell the difference until after road trip w/all bags out, zero passengers

it does feel a bit lighter...this plus the Hybrid Front Hood (weighs less than CF) overall does seem lighter
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