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Old December 22nd, 2003, 02:44 PM   #1
 
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Common 7th gen questions

Q- My car is brand new. When should I change my oil?
A- The owners manual states to change the oil every 7500miles. Do not go over this limit EVER. You can change it sooner if you would like. I change my oil every 3000miles or less. Also, some people state thier dealer told them not to change the oil before the first 7500miles, as the car has a speacial break in oil. While this might be true, your engine is breaking in and wearing small particles of metal into the oil that the filter will not catch. Changing your oil after the first 3000miles is a very good idea, and will not hinder the breaking in of the motor.

Q- What octane should I use?
A- The required octane level for these cars is 87octane. According to a statment by honda engineers themself, using 91octane will allow the computer to up the timing in conjunction with the knock sensor, providing a 10hp and 10lbs/ft improvment to a total of 250hp and 222lbs/ft of torque.

Q- How do I reset the maintainence required light?
A- Strait from the 6th gens owners manual [yours has it also, thank you SteVTEC]
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Old December 22nd, 2003, 03:06 PM   #2
 
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I thought 93 octane provided the +10hp +10 ft/lbs of torque , and I thought it was at the wheels, not the crank. That would be more like 260 HP/230 TQ at the crank (wow, the same as the CL-S)
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Old December 22nd, 2003, 03:14 PM   #3
 
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They still offer 93octane? I haven't found that in years around phoenix. They stated using premium gas gave the gains, so it could be either 91 or 93. And the gains are at the crank, not the wheels, just like the stock rated power is at the crank, not the wheels
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Old December 24th, 2003, 11:02 AM   #4
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good guide bored, thanks for putting this together. as far as octane, i cant even find 91 octane in texas. it's all 93 for "premium."
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Old December 24th, 2003, 02:35 PM   #5
 
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Re: Common 7th gen questions

Quote:
Also, some people state thier dealer told them not to change the oil before the first 7500miles, as the car has a speacial break in oil. While this might be true, your engine is breaking in and wearing small particles of metal into the oil that the filter will not catch. Changing your oil after the first 3000miles is a very good idea, and will not hinder the breaking in of the motor.
Isn't the filter designed to filter out particles large enough to cause damage? If it is, then I wouldn't be too worried about metallic particles too small to be filtered. I think this is a controversial topic and needs some research based on the scientific method before any conclusions can be drawn. Anyone wanna donate some new engines for testing?
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Old December 24th, 2003, 05:15 PM   #6
 
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Re: Re: Common 7th gen questions

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Originally posted by daveman
I think this is a controversial topic and needs some research based on the scientific method before any conclusions can be drawn.
Actually its a known topic thats been proven over and over again, at least in the domestic world
It goes somthing like this: install flat tappet cam. Wipe out several lobes within hours of installing it. This means metal particles everywhere in the oil! Dont change the filter or oil for the next 3000miles then see what you motor looks like. It wont be pretty, I can tell you that
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Old December 29th, 2003, 12:15 PM   #7
 
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How long do you think the mileage could be extended by using synthetic oil (Amsoil, Mobil 1) and a good filter (Mobil 1, K&N)? Has anyone done any extended drain interval testing with synthetics?

Last edited by john35; December 29th, 2003 at 12:19 PM..
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Old December 29th, 2003, 12:20 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally posted by john35
How long do you think the mileage could be extended by using synthetic oil (Amsoil, Mobil 1) and a good filter (Mobil 1, K&N)? Has anyone done any extended drain interval testing with synthetics?
I would say around 7,000 miles on synthetic. (start learning how to turn off your maintenance required light though )
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Old December 29th, 2003, 12:25 PM   #9
 
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Synthetic oil will go 10,000miles easy before breaking down. Thats not the point though. It will be as dirty as dino oil is by 3000miles, so you should replace it anyways. The best filters out there according to a study I read online a while back were WIX [same as NAPA gold] and a/c delco [they dont make honda filters ] with FRAM in dead last overall.
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Old January 5th, 2004, 10:29 AM   #10
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Re: Re: Common 7th gen questions

Quote:
Originally posted by daveman
Isn't the filter designed to filter out particles large enough to cause damage? If it is, then I wouldn't be too worried about metallic particles too small to be filtered. I think this is a controversial topic and needs some research based on the scientific method before any conclusions can be drawn. Anyone wanna donate some new engines for testing?
A filter will in fact filter particles, but only up until the point where it becomes saturated and it no longer filters the oil, it goes into complete bypass in order to keep the oil flowing. If it bypasses, then your metal particles are just floating around in your motor...
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Old January 11th, 2004, 08:12 PM   #11
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by bored&stroked
Synthetic oil will go 10,000miles easy before breaking down. Thats not the point though. It will be as dirty as dino oil is by 3000miles, so you should replace it anyways. The best filters out there according to a study I read online a while back were WIX [same as NAPA gold] and a/c delco [they dont make honda filters ] with FRAM in dead last overall.
Now AC Delco do make Honda filters (PF 2057).
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Old February 4th, 2004, 01:54 PM   #12
 
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Can you add to the FAQ the stock tire/rim size? I've seen it asked way too many times.

215/50/17 - tires
17x7, 55 offset, 5x114.3 PCD - rims
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Old February 4th, 2004, 02:04 PM   #13
 
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MOBIL 1 TEST RESULTS BY INDEPENDENTS.

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html


ALSO FYI BREAK IN NOTES. I LIKE THIS IDEA. DRIVE IT HARD THEY SAY....

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

CHEERS..
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Old February 17th, 2004, 12:11 AM   #14
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I have a quick question, due to the recent increase in gas prices, is it ok to alternate between Regular and Premium gas? The ECU will just adjust according to the type of gas right?
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Old February 17th, 2004, 09:32 AM   #15
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by Corrion
I have a quick question, due to the recent increase in gas prices, is it ok to alternate between Regular and Premium gas? The ECU will just adjust according to the type of gas right?
Yup. Switch away
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Old February 17th, 2004, 09:37 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by Corrion on February 17th, 2004 at 02:11 AM

is it ok to alternate between Regular and Premium gas? The ECU will just adjust according to the type of gas right?
Yes, it would be fine to switch.

I'm not sure how quick the ecu makes an adjustment though. I read somewhere (on this site, I think) that after putting premium in, that the car had to be driven a tankful (or a couple hundred miles) before the computer would take complete advantage of the higher octane. I don't know for a fact though, just passing on what I had previously read.
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Old February 17th, 2004, 01:59 PM   #17
 
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Its all based on the knock sensor. If the engine detects any detonation [knock] then it pulls timing. Taking a whole gas tank to add the timing back in to take advantage of 91octane makes sence.
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Old February 17th, 2004, 03:44 PM   #18
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Alright, thanks guys. I'm switching back until the gas prices are "decent" here in California
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Old February 19th, 2004, 02:33 PM   #19
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all else fails....READ THE FRIKIN' OWNERS MANUAL
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Old March 4th, 2004, 10:49 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by bored&stroked
Synthetic oil will go 10,000miles easy before breaking down. Thats not the point though. It will be as dirty as dino oil is by 3000miles, so you should replace it anyways. The best filters out there according to a study I read online a while back were WIX [same as NAPA gold] and a/c delco [they dont make honda filters ] with FRAM in dead last overall.
I've always wondered where the stock factory filters would stand in these studies? As good as the Napa golds? in the middle somewhere or as bad as the Frams?
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Old March 10th, 2004, 12:38 PM   #21
 
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Ok this is gonna be a STUPID question...but do you really need a "special tool" as the manual says, to take off the oil filter to change the oil?!?!?!?!

I want to change my oil myself this time and I read there is a "special tool" to take the filter off available at "Honda dealers"
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Old March 10th, 2004, 03:00 PM   #22
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by AccordEXGirl
Ok this is gonna be a STUPID question...but do you really need a "special tool" as the manual says, to take off the oil filter to change the oil?!?!?!?!

I want to change my oil myself this time and I read there is a "special tool" to take the filter off available at "Honda dealers"
Let's not talk about the "special tool", we can get into trouble.

They probably say that to prevent you from doing it yourself and over-tightening and getting you to pay the dealer. You just need the proper sized filter wrench, a universal one, or a good strong grip.
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Old March 10th, 2004, 03:27 PM   #23
 
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Haha ok thanks...I didn't think there was one, but I wanted to make sure before I got under there and froze my butt off trying to find out....thank you!!!! And forgive my dumbness
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Old March 11th, 2004, 12:10 PM   #24
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There IS a "special tool". I got one at handaaccessories.com.

http://www.handaaccessories.com/accmaint03.html

It's basically just an oil filter wrench for the honda OEM filters, which they also sell. It is by no means 'required' though, cuz a universal one would actually be better if you don't always use the OEM filters. Usually you can just take the filter off by hand (unless it's really cold and fingers are frozen) Just jack up the front passenger side wheel and the filter is right there. It's also a good idea to get new oil drain plug washers every time you change the oil just to make sure you have a good seal
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Old March 11th, 2004, 02:33 PM   #25
 
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again, it's just a filter wrench that they want to charge you double for!

And who wants to pay more for a Honda filter when you can just get a PureOne.

I went to my dealer and they gave me a handful of drain plug crush filters. They're about $0.10 a piece, but the service guy isn't going to waste the time writing it up.
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Old March 11th, 2004, 09:33 PM   #26
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by sami on March 11th, 2004 at 09:33 PM

again, it's just a filter wrench that they want to charge you double for!

And who wants to pay more for a Honda filter when you can just get a PureOne.

I went to my dealer and they gave me a handful of drain plug crush filters. They're about $0.10 a piece, but the service guy isn't going to waste the time writing it up.
Your lucky, the dealers here make me pay 2 dollars plus tax for each bolt.
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Old March 11th, 2004, 11:06 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally posted by leo leo
Your lucky, the dealers here make me pay 2 dollars plus tax for each bolt.
You dont need a new bolt, just the washer. They go for about 20 cents each.
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Old May 20th, 2004, 11:00 AM   #28
 
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first oil change

you should always with any new honda wait 5000 miles for the first oil change so that the additive in the oil has a chance to seal the engine properly if you do not do this it will wreck your gasd mileage in the future.
7500 is excessive never wait that long to change oil 5000 for the first change then 300 to 3500 every change after that.
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Old August 11th, 2004, 07:47 PM   #29
 
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im not a racer reallie and i havent started any mods... but i still dont know what octane would be best fo my car...(in the sense that i usually stay undeer 3-4k rpm) i have 87 in it now from thedealership runnin on 1/2 a tank... so any suggestions? (yes im a girl ) =P
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Old August 12th, 2004, 12:35 AM   #30
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MiZz Th0nG
im not a racer reallie and i havent started any mods... but i still dont know what octane would be best fo my car...(in the sense that i usually stay undeer 3-4k rpm) i have 87 in it now from thedealership runnin on 1/2 a tank... so any suggestions? (yes im a girl ) =P
If you want the most HP/TQ out of your car, put 91-93 octane. But if you're not worried about that and want to save some money, put 87 octane.



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