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Old April 17th, 2009, 07:33 PM   #1
J36 6sp w/ LSD
 
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Talking J36 second Stage







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Old April 17th, 2009, 08:09 PM   #2
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i drew those sunglasses!

you're welcome.
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Old April 17th, 2009, 08:56 PM   #3
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AHAHAHA The Pig is the best mod ever. Seriously sick though.
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Old April 18th, 2009, 08:43 AM   #4
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You are lucky paul put my engine and trans back together when he did. Your Clutch/flywheel came just after he finished and you would have been waiting on another one.. hahahahahaha
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Old April 18th, 2009, 10:40 AM   #5
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AHAHAHA The Pig is the best mod ever. Seriously sick though.
dude i need to get myelf one of them



thats looking pretty good man keep up he good work!!!
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Old April 18th, 2009, 12:37 PM   #6
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how does the engine damper feel?
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Old April 18th, 2009, 11:19 PM   #7
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^Not done yet, hopefully finish everything tomorrow
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Old April 24th, 2009, 10:54 AM   #8
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how are the brakes?
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Old April 24th, 2009, 10:58 AM   #9
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Spongey like yours, but still will put you thru the wind shield, need to find a solution for the master cylinder, maybe one from the TL-S...
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Old April 24th, 2009, 11:13 AM   #10
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true. well then i feel better about my RL calipers that its not just me haha. mine have improved over time too though once the pads bedded more
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Old April 24th, 2009, 11:18 AM   #11
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How did the battery relo go? I bet its a sick setup with that box you were going to fab
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Old April 24th, 2009, 11:19 AM   #12
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nice! you'll love the lighten crank and FW combo trust me on this, you'll be shifting faster than before! Well, as long it's the stock size you'll be fine... Congrats and GL
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Old April 24th, 2009, 11:31 AM   #13
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Actually he is on his way back, the ring gear seperated from the flywheel so I will be pulling it all apart to see WTF.....
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Old April 24th, 2009, 11:32 AM   #14
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How did the battery relo go? I bet its a sick setup with that box you were going to fab
Battery relo went off without a hitch....
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Old April 24th, 2009, 11:53 AM   #15
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Actually he is on his way back, the ring gear seperated from the flywheel so I will be pulling it all apart to see WTF.....
?!?!?!? dam u've been busy
did he cancel his flight then?
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Old April 24th, 2009, 12:32 PM   #16
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Damn that is some shiz.
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Old April 24th, 2009, 12:39 PM   #17
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On a good note with the fic in and running good he is getting 40mpg @ 65 MPH under cruise control...
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Old April 24th, 2009, 12:40 PM   #18
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so how does he start the car now if the ring gear is separated? roll it down a hill?
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Old April 24th, 2009, 12:43 PM   #19
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Actually he is on his way back, the ring gear seperated from the flywheel so I will be pulling it all apart to see WTF.....
Yeah most people now adays put the stock ring gear on the AL FW. Apparently Clutchmasters hasn't addressed this problem yet even though they are aware of it. I'm going to get an Aasco flywheel soon and we'll see if it has the same problem. Supposedly they make the flywheels for clutchmasters and practically everyone else, it should weigh ~13.0lbs. They don't make it for Fidanza or UR however. They used to for UR but they don't anymore.

Anyway swap rings and that should solve the problem, thats what Sean and Siggy did
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Old April 24th, 2009, 12:45 PM   #20
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danngngg kai thats awesomeee. keep up the good work!!
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Old April 24th, 2009, 12:55 PM   #21
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Yeah most people now adays put the stock ring gear on the AL FW. Apparently Clutchmasters hasn't addressed this problem yet even though they are aware of it. I'm going to get an Aasco flywheel soon and we'll see if it has the same problem. Supposedly they make the flywheels for clutchmasters and practically everyone else, it should weigh ~13.0lbs. They don't make it for Fidanza or UR however. They used to for UR but they don't anymore.

Anyway swap rings and that should solve the problem, thats what Sean and Siggy did
Thanks, yeah that was my though as well, I have a couple of "trash" stock flywheels and was going to grind the welds off one of them.

I am really insterested in how the asco FW works out for you, although I am still thinking about making my own steel ones probably in the 15-18lb range, it just seems the dual mass fw can not hold the TQ properly, the next issue is going to be finding a disc and pressure plate. I am really getting bumbed out that not even CM can make a clutch for us.
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Old April 24th, 2009, 12:57 PM   #22
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I have a couple of "trash" stock flywheels and was going to grind the welds off one of them.
i can think of one haha
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Old April 24th, 2009, 02:27 PM   #23
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Thanks, yeah that was my though as well, I have a couple of "trash" stock flywheels and was going to grind the welds off one of them.

I am really insterested in how the asco FW works out for you, although I am still thinking about making my own steel ones probably in the 15-18lb range, it just seems the dual mass fw can not hold the TQ properly, the next issue is going to be finding a disc and pressure plate. I am really getting bumbed out that not even CM can make a clutch for us.
I have CM PP and disk





OP's PP is a little bit different asthetically...

MINE


here's my FW

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Old April 24th, 2009, 02:41 PM   #24
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Spongey like yours, but still will put you thru the wind shield, need to find a solution for the master cylinder, maybe one from the TL-S...
I don't know why they'd be spongy unless the caliper was poor quality and it really flexed. Did the Ksports use steel or AL mounting brackets? I assume they came with SS lines right?

How does the Right pistons/Left piston caliper crossover line look? Its very possible if it wasnt implemented correctly (insert normal Ksport put down here) or assembled correctly internally (at Ksport) so that the caliper is spongy because air is trapped on the inside.

My 4pot Wilwoods (with a simlar piston volume to the RL) were in NO way spongy, just the opposite in fact. Without knowing the sizes of the Ksport pistons its hard to say for sure, but I just don't think it would be the master cyclinder.

Have you tried a suction bleeder yet? I'd try that (for a WHILE)before the master cylinder change. When I was trying to solve a brake problem I had (noise) I saw an article mentioning in one instance the bleeding took about 30L of brake fluid to completely get out the air...

Also, did you have the master cylinder out at all? Those are about the biggest B&^ch ever to bleed correctly.

I'd bet both spongy problems can be attributed to bleeding.
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Old April 24th, 2009, 02:44 PM   #25
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^They have been blead a couple times and I also have the wilwood kit myself, the RL/Ksport have at least +50% more fluid volume.
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Old April 24th, 2009, 03:17 PM   #26
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I don't know why they'd be spongy unless the caliper was poor quality and it really flexed. Did the Ksports use steel or AL mounting brackets? I assume they came with SS lines right?

How does the Right pistons/Left piston caliper crossover line look? Its very possible if it wasnt implemented correctly (insert normal Ksport put down here) or assembled correctly internally (at Ksport) so that the caliper is spongy because air is trapped on the inside.

My 4pot Wilwoods (with a simlar piston volume to the RL) were in NO way spongy, just the opposite in fact. Without knowing the sizes of the Ksport pistons its hard to say for sure, but I just don't think it would be the master cyclinder.

Have you tried a suction bleeder yet? I'd try that (for a WHILE)before the master cylinder change. When I was trying to solve a brake problem I had (noise) I saw an article mentioning in one instance the bleeding took about 30L of brake fluid to completely get out the air...

Also, did you have the master cylinder out at all? Those are about the biggest B&^ch ever to bleed correctly.

I'd bet both spongy problems can be attributed to bleeding.
yeah mine were bled a number of times too and again after a few days of driving.. but i still have some sponginess
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Old April 24th, 2009, 05:43 PM   #27
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Paul, I know you are the engine guru, but I think you might be mistaken on this one. The actual fluid volume has no effect on pedal feel/pressure. The only thing that matters is total piston area, and that usually only effects the pedal travel.

My Wilwood had 4 38mm pistons, so 3.142x19x19x4= 4,537sq mm

The RL has 4x39, so 3.142x19.5x19.5x4= 4,778sq mm

The applicable Brembo GT Caliper has a 38 leading/42 trailing,
so 3.142x19x21x4= 5015sq mm

Both Brembo and Wilwood kits use the stock master cylinder, so it has a realistic range of at least 4,780 - 5,015, which the RL calipers fall within.

That small of a change between calipers will hardly have a noticeable effect in pedal length, let alone sponginess.

So unless the RL caliper mount you've designed is too flexy (which I highly doubt) you've got air in the system, no two ways about it.

The Wilwoods were obnoxious to bleed, and it took me a few times, but I ended up solving it with a vacuum bleeder. That's why I reccommended it.
I still think that may be your solution, but if you find a larger master cylinder adds any performance also, I'm all ears.
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Old April 24th, 2009, 06:14 PM   #28
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Did vacume bleed as well as normal methods, Kai LI just got here and said the pedal did get alot stiffer now that the pads are seating, also flexing of the braket would have nothing to do with it eaither since the calipers are not floaters.
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Old April 24th, 2009, 07:22 PM   #29
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^By the way, the hotel near the air port is awesome
good time for a beer~~~after all the push starts......

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Old April 24th, 2009, 07:26 PM   #30
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Some comments:

the mugen fan switch and thermo stat.....they are awesome, now my water temp drops to 155~160F and engine oil is 150-155F, engine seem to pull harder......
LSD helps a lot when launching the car ~~~ just need to find some better tires...
Brakes definitely will put you thru the wind shield......I have to advice my friend not to press too hard on the pedal when he test drive the car, but he did anyway~~~
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