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Old June 13th, 2009, 02:45 PM  
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DIY. Outlaw Engeneering Thermoblock spacer kit for V6

got Thermoblock spacer kit and went to Bretts house to install it.

installation is pretty easy but instructions are for CL-S engine, maybe its same but w/e


best to do it is when car is cold, if you drove it for some time then IM and all bolts will be too hot to work with

tools needed

size 8(maybe) 10 and 12 sockets with extension or deep sockets if you have it.
wisegrips unscrew the studs (even though i dont think they needed to be replaced on IM)
pliers
shop towel to cover intake runners while you work.
second pair of hands is always beneficial

Step 1.
take your intake off and put it somewhere (on table or something clean)


Step 2.
Take off your IM upper cover (plate that say Honda on it) and gasket thats under that plate. (honda manual says to replace it, i didnt)
take out bolts and i think 2 nuts. set them aside so you dont loose them you gona reuse them to put cover back on





Step3.
unscrew bolts and nuts that hold IM to intake runners (there are 7 bolts and 2 nuts
set them aside as you will not use them again, (footnote 1). disconect all connectors from temp sensors, TB, PCV hose, brake booster vacuum hose, and vacuum hose
unscrew 2 TB nuts and 2 bolts. you will not use them when reinstalling. move TB aside for now

unscrew 2 bolts and disconect hose circled. way easier then disconecting holse from bottom of that evap i think



Step4.
prepare clean shop towel. carefuly slowly lift up IM while checking if you forgot to disconect anything. please be gentle with all hoses, use pliers to get spring clips off
set IM aside. this is good time to clean it. i used mass airflow cleaner to do that. im sure it will be in same condition in few days as before but oh well.
you will notice how rough intake runners are on IM. this is why porting it would be a good thing, have to look into it


Step 5. place shop towel on top of intake runners so nothing falls in while you work in that area
remove 2 studs (see footnote 1 first). and replace them with once that come in the kit, just notice that shorter thread goes in intake runners



Step 6. once you cleaned IM (thats optional). take off shop towel, take thermoblock spacers and put it on intake runners. there is metal gasket on there already, if you wana take it off and clean it from oil then its fine. leave that gasket there, do not through it out, put black spacer on, then green gasket on top. and you can put IM back on
original metal gasket (honda manual says to replace it. i didnt)

thermoblock spacer

thermoblock gasket


Step 7.
put IM back on carefully. put all bolts that came in the kit instead of original once (they are longer to accommodate spacer)
torque bolts and nuts to 16lbf*ft

Step 8
reconect all connectors (temp sensor, TB connector, MAP sensor(i think), reconect PCV hose, brake booster vacuum hose, and vacuum hose
screw 2 new TB nuts and 2 new bolts that came with the kit.

screw 2 bolts back in and reconect hose circled.


step 9
take off TB studs off just like you did with IM. this studs you have to replace becouse they are longer to accommodate spacer


Step 10
put TB spacer on (honda says to replace original gasket but i didnt). before you put TB back on, (get shop towel and sit it under TB becouse when you disconect water hoses(coolant hoses) from TB, coolant will leak out) and use connector that came with the kit to connect 2 of them (as i found out, those hoses heat up TB. its needed in colder climates but not here. Brett has it done on his and he said it was fine in winter

picture coming soon(forgot to take it)

Step 11
put throtle body back on, tighten the bolts to 16lbf*ft. dont forget to reconnect ECU connector for TB

Step 12. put upper IM gasket and cover back on. again, honda says to replace gasket, i did not, it was not cracked so why do it
tighten bolts to 8.7lbf*ft

Step 13. put your intake back on and tighten all clamps that hold intake to TB.

go back and check if all your connectors are reconected and all bolts are tighned.

reset your computer becouse you will have check engine light from disconecting intake temp sensor. you can remove negative battery terminal while doing this and it will reset your computer.

i think thats all



footnotes

1. .....but if you want to try, leave 2 studs in and put thermoblock spacer on and put IM back on and see if you have good thread to put nut back on, if not then.....
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Old June 13th, 2009, 02:48 PM  
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awesome write up bro ... notice any diff with these?
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Old June 13th, 2009, 02:51 PM  
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nice write up!

i have this mod myself. very easy to install (with right tools of course)
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Old June 13th, 2009, 03:34 PM  
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purpose? gains on the butt dyno? sound diff?
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Old June 13th, 2009, 03:43 PM  
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Helps me with IAT sensor heat soak so it maintains your low end torque better when driving for a while in the city in stop and go traffic.

To OP:
Why didn't you clean the IM from the inside!? How could you resist just look at it!
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Old June 13th, 2009, 03:47 PM  
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very nice write up... seems pretty easy to do
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Old June 13th, 2009, 03:48 PM  
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i did clean it. pictures are not in order. so you dont see when it after it was cleaned
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Old June 13th, 2009, 03:51 PM  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fabrik8edDreamz View Post
purpose? gains on the butt dyno? sound diff?
purpose is to drop intake air temp. this way all that surface of IM doesnt get as hot, and as you know cooler air is more dense then hot air. plus what 400m said
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Old June 13th, 2009, 04:25 PM  
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i see, makes sense, nice write-up, is that a chopped off AEM intake?
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Old June 13th, 2009, 04:34 PM  
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Quote:
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i see, makes sense, nice write-up, is that a chopped off AEM intake?
no its K&N typhoon, SRI version, cant put second pipe couse of my foglights are too big, need to do 45degree angle pipe to put it on
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Old June 14th, 2009, 04:33 AM  
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Couple of notes.

First of all, I had that done a while back on my old accord and the heat somehow managed to find its way in the IM, no matter what. So, I doubt there are any benefits to this. Also, after taking out the IM a few times to do other work, the spacer cracked at one edge, so reliability of that part isn't up to Honda's standards, or at least compared to the rest of the parts in the engine that can seriously take a beating.

However, Honda J engineers have come up with a huge spacer that they put on the engine that comes with the Pilot. I believe there is a thread out there for that. It won't fit in our cars (too big/tall even for the hood to close!), but maybe someone has a solution?

The only benefit may be that throttle body coolant by-pass they also provide in the package. By passing, connecting together the two hoses, instead of plugging them in the throttle body as in stock, did lower the temperature of the throttle body.

Second small note on the DIY work: to remove the studs, you need to put in two nuts one of top of the other and then try to turn the lower one with a key. The top one with hold the lower nut down... don't try to remove the studs with plyers and mess up the threats of the old studs.
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Old June 14th, 2009, 06:45 AM  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sy272004 View Post
i did clean it. pictures are not in order. so you dont see when it after it was cleaned
Phew... good to know

Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyWare View Post
Couple of notes.

First of all, I had that done a while back on my old accord and the heat somehow managed to find its way in the IM, no matter what. So, I doubt there are any benefits to this. Also, after taking out the IM a few times to do other work, the spacer cracked at one edge, so reliability of that part isn't up to Honda's standards, or at least compared to the rest of the parts in the engine that can seriously take a beating.

Sort of, the heat takes longer to soak in, and even then it won't be as bad as it used to be, the durability of my spacer is fine, taken it off numerous times, so I don't think its that bad.


However, Honda J engineers have come up with a huge spacer that they put on the engine that comes with the Pilot. I believe there is a thread out there for that. It won't fit in our cars (too big/tall even for the hood to close!), but maybe someone has a solution?

It could probably fit, if you removed the hood insulation and maybe still chop off some of the supports. It effectively lengthens the intake runner system shifting the powerband down, so you get torque sooner. I don't think its made from aluminum since its like $50, so it might midigate heat soak a bit too.


The only benefit may be that throttle body coolant by-pass they also provide in the package. By passing, connecting together the two hoses, instead of plugging them in the throttle body as in stock, did lower the temperature of the throttle body.

Second small note on the DIY work: to remove the studs, you need to put in two nuts one of top of the other and then try to turn the lower one with a key. The top one with hold the lower nut down... don't try to remove the studs with plyers and mess up the threats of the old studs.
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Old June 14th, 2009, 11:25 AM  
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Nice write-up this mod looks legit
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Old June 17th, 2009, 08:15 AM  
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honestly now im starting to feel the difference. engine does sound louder as well. even my GF noticed and thats saying something. louder above 3k. so maybe couse air is colder it sounds louder?
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Old June 17th, 2009, 08:38 AM  
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I've never been sold on these as HP adding mods, but I'll say even the 'big boys' in drag racing use them, so that says a lot.

Ironicaly enough, when I was doing a lot of research on them for a previous car, I found that plywood was considered the best material for this...

Even looking at the serious $$$$$ drag guys with $3k sheetmetal manifolds there was a goofy plywood spacer underneath the carbs. And it certainly wasn't to save costs or because they didn't know how to fabricate it from another material...

Thanks for taking the time to do a writeup!
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Old June 17th, 2009, 08:45 AM  
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maybe there's a leak and that's why its loud. And yes you should be using two nuts locked together to remove a stud. that way you don't strip the threads!
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Old June 17th, 2009, 08:59 AM  
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pretty sure there is no leaks but then i cant do anything to check, maybe it does same way as TB spacer. couse that ads noise as well

im sure its louder couse spacer doesnt channel/suppresses noise as well as IM did when it was in direct contact if you know what i mean
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Old June 18th, 2009, 02:59 AM  
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Quote:
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pretty sure there is no leaks but then i cant do anything to check, maybe it does same way as TB spacer. couse that ads noise as well

im sure its louder couse spacer doesnt channel/suppresses noise as well as IM did when it was in direct contact if you know what i mean


probably cause you cleaned out all that gunk out of your IM.
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Old June 19th, 2009, 07:31 PM  
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Not worth the effort.

Not to rain on your parade, but I think this Mod is worthless.
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Old June 19th, 2009, 07:54 PM  
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Not to rain on your parade, but I think this Mod is worthless.
i think Unorthodox Crank Pulley is worthless. cost way too much for what 2-3 HP gain?
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Old June 19th, 2009, 07:56 PM  
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Not to rain on your parade, but I think this Mod is worthless.
Do you ever say anything nice or productive lol......seems like every thread you just bash all day long.
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Old June 19th, 2009, 08:03 PM  
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It is actually not a hard thing to do to put on these spacers. They really do work and help keep the upper manifold and intake MUCH cooler. You can actually rest your hand on the engine after driving it.
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Old June 19th, 2009, 08:23 PM  
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Do you ever say anything nice or productive lol......seems like every thread you just bash all day long.
wow you right. read some of his posts. bashing 50% of the time. somebody needs to get laid
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Old June 19th, 2009, 08:44 PM  
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^ But seriously were all here to help one another. This forum isnt about bashing one another. This thread was written up to be informitive. If you feel the spacer is not worth it then don't buy it.
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Old June 19th, 2009, 09:41 PM  
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The concept behind the spacer seems to be a good idea.....really the only thing this helps is to keep your IM temps lower longer so you get that responsiveness that you have when you first start your car. It would be a good thing to install if your installing a P&P IM for sure.
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Old June 23rd, 2009, 09:28 AM  
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I have one of these coming soon in the mail. I got to get a new torque wrench though. I doubt I'll feel any difference being an auto but I will be adding p&p runners and IM eventually. I'll probably relocate the battery first. Not for FI but just for more room for me to reach my intake filter and make the engine bay less crowded for more efficient cooling.

I am curious though if the material the spacer is made from can be honed to match a p&p easily or would it just flake/crack/chip?
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Old June 23rd, 2009, 09:58 AM  
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The spacer can be honed. Paul honed mine when he ported my intake runners.
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Old June 23rd, 2009, 01:20 PM  
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Sweet, thanks man.
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