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Old February 19th, 2011, 07:20 AM   #1
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Replacing the J30A4 today....

So after tearing apart my motor to find I bent all 12 exhaust valves and screwed up a rod, I've decided to replace to original beast. I found a J30A4 with 50K miles on it for $400. 90 day warranty, and delivered overnight from Tennessee. I recently replaced my clutch so I've dealt with the nightmare of dropping the front subframe. Any tips on making this swap any easier? I've up for suggestions. Thanks everyone.
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Old February 19th, 2011, 07:22 AM   #2
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I'm planning on dropping it from the bottom and lifting the car to remove it. Also, my original block may be for sale. I'll humor any and all offers. It's not a bad start for a project block.
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Old February 19th, 2011, 07:22 AM   #3
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Get a J32A3 from TL
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Old February 19th, 2011, 07:41 AM   #4
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Already bought the J30A4 and it will be here today.
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Old February 19th, 2011, 08:10 AM   #5
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...

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Originally Posted by rckclimber31 View Post
Already bought the J30A4 and it will be here today.
damn that j32a3 would have been way better...

oh well...


any mods or just stock?
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Old February 19th, 2011, 08:18 AM   #6
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let's move on from the J32A3, guys. I needed to get this on the road ASAP and the J30A4 was an easy find and a good deal. Now if we can circle back to the topic of my original post... hahaha
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Old February 19th, 2011, 04:44 PM   #7
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Two questions: How did you bend the valves and throw a rod? The j30 coming, is it from an automatic or 6speed?
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Old February 20th, 2011, 07:21 AM   #8
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No idea what happened to the rod. The motor had 150K miles on it and I'm pretty sure a rod bearing went out. I haven't had a chance to dig around and check it out. Just a guess at this point. I ran a compression test and had one cylinder around 65psi. No bueno. Plus it drops down about a 1/4in when I apply pressure with my thumb. As far as the valves? My guess is leaning towards the TL Type S cams. I just had a roller fly apart the other day and replaced that. Ever since I've swapped in the bigger cams, I've had issues with my valve train. Plans are to fully build the heads and build a J33 stroker bottom end. I'm not sure what the J30A4 came off. It will be here tomorrow. I'm replacing the timing belt and all spark plugs when it arrives.
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Old February 20th, 2011, 11:57 AM   #9
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Ok, not sure if any other sensors are different, but the intake mani is different from auto to 6speed. Also, contact Paul NVA-AV6 about fully built heads and j3? bottom end.
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Old February 21st, 2011, 07:52 AM   #10
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I'd like to build a J33 bottom end and have fully built heads. My buddy owns a machine shop and said $450-$500 plus parts will build my heads. That's all the port/machine work and assembly. This will be a project that will span over the next year or so. I can just use the manifold off my original engine.
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Old February 21st, 2011, 09:51 AM   #11
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yo..

you need to port the intake runners and the intake manifold and the throttle body as well...
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Old February 21st, 2011, 10:09 AM   #12
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already ahead of you bdconcepts.
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Old February 21st, 2011, 10:20 AM   #13
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yo...

did you set the valves after the tl-s cams...I have had the cams in 2 engines with no problems...
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Old February 21st, 2011, 11:57 AM   #14
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strange to see you have 12 bent exhaust valves as well... i purchased the car from a dealer the first of december and the check engine light came on that week. got a contract signed that it would be fixed or honda supplies a new engine. just the other day they finally found the problem to be 12 bent exhaust valves. the car has 94k miles on it. makes me wonder what would cause this to happen. anyway, no longer my concern, ive got the heads off to a machine shop and the block has been chemically cleaned of all the carbon build up. not costing me a cent :] good luck to you! and lemme know if you solve the mystery
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Old February 21st, 2011, 12:02 PM   #15
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yo...

are either on of you 6mt manuals?...if so I would suspect someone has mechanically overrevved the motor...

otherwise I have no idea how the engine bends 12 exhaust valves...did the valvetrain make any noise before this?
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Old February 21st, 2011, 12:15 PM   #16
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To me either someone over-reved the engine at some point in time or maybe no one ever adjested the valves during the engines life. 40k and 90k, if i'm not mistaken.
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Old February 21st, 2011, 07:26 PM   #17
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i've always spent close attention to adjusting my valves. no idea what caused it. I NEVER over-rev my motor. so the mystery continues. either way, an all stock J30A4 will replace the beast until i get it built.
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Old February 22nd, 2011, 12:03 PM   #18
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Well thanks everyone for tips on replacing my engine. This forum is really helpful.
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Old February 22nd, 2011, 12:09 PM   #19
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where did you order it from?
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Old February 22nd, 2011, 12:19 PM   #20
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yo..

Quote:
Originally Posted by rckclimber31 View Post
Well thanks everyone for tips on replacing my engine. This forum is really helpful.
ask Paul (NVA-AV6)or Kiet (nighthawkv6) about the valves...


any other questions let us know...

are you manual or auto?...

new clutch or pressure switches going in it? (if your AT)


also now is the best time to clean anything with carbon and crap on it...
also you can modify the oil pump to put out more oil pressure as well...
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Old February 22nd, 2011, 05:19 PM   #21
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how do you modify the oil pump? im down for any tips. I'm a 6MT. i replaced the clutch about 2K miles ago.
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Old February 23rd, 2011, 06:09 AM   #22
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yo.

rckclimber31

you got a pm....
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Old February 23rd, 2011, 12:05 PM   #23
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if you put in a J32A3 would you have to replace anything else or would everything match up?
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Old February 23rd, 2011, 12:29 PM   #24
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yo..

it should match perfect....

just be ready...

lots of more power from a dig....
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Old February 24th, 2011, 02:11 PM   #25
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Tips to make the swap easier..

Dont pull the sub frame. Take it out from the top.

If you are 6MT, dont remove the strut bar. Remove the front engine mount completely and you will have enough room to squeeze the assembly in/out. Im not sure about the auto's and the strut tower braces they have.

Dont spill any fluids. saves on cleanup time.
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Old February 24th, 2011, 05:39 PM   #26
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Damn man i just paid 810 for my J30a4 for with 39k miles where did u get it from??
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Old February 25th, 2011, 05:30 PM   #27
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I am proud to say the install went without a hitch. Thank God! The engine runs and sounds amazing. Not to mention all the extra parts I have laying around! Not one check engine light so far. Fingers crossed.
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Old March 2nd, 2011, 01:26 PM   #28
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yeah, mines a 6MT as well, however the problem occured before i purchased the car. i took the risk of buying it with the check engine light on and due to a misfire that was supposed to be related to either coils or spark plugs. so with the signing of a contract and ability for a full refund thru NYS lemon laws i went for it anyway. it took about 2 months untill the dealer actually found out that it was exhaust valves though. i've never overreved the car, but its possible the previous owner did. or even the use of overtune with a vtec controller.
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Old March 3rd, 2011, 01:00 AM   #29
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Quote:
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Tips to make the swap easier..

Dont pull the sub frame. Take it out from the top.
that advise = fail
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Old March 3rd, 2011, 07:41 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scott0 View Post
that advise = fail
to each his own scott0....


i personally think the top is faster....it just depends on what tools and what jack or lift you are working with....

i have never seen someone pull out from the
bottom and stab the motor back in as quick and
easy as you can from the top...

i saw my engine get done in hours by a professional....thru the top...with a engine hoist(air powered) that makes mine look like a lego toy...i have done it on my driveway from the bottom as well...to each his own but def not fail from the top....
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