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Old August 22nd, 2011, 12:12 AM   #1
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Battery relocation ***help needed***

Hey guys

I need some help, especially anyone who has placed their battery in the trunk.

So i ran the battery to the trunk, and when I started the car and the turned the headlights it killed the motor, finally after 3 attempts it stayed on but when leaving from first gear the car started to shutter, only happens when leaving from a stop or at very low RPM. so Im guessing it might be the fuses Im using.

setup:
the wire from the starter runs into a single block with a 250 amp fuse then to a 2nd distrubtion block where the fuse box wire also connects to, this block also has (2) 250amp fuses, that then runs to battery in the trunk.

oh Im using Tsunami wire cable, blocks and fuses. So its not cheap stuff.

im asuming im running the wrong amp fuse, please help! LOL

thanks guys!
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Old August 22nd, 2011, 12:16 AM   #2
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shouldn't be 100 AMP? You are running 0 gauge right? Check your negative grounding. That might be the issue. It needs a clean ground.
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Old August 22nd, 2011, 12:30 AM   #3
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Did search Biyun's posts. He had the same issue!
He may have solved it.
He too also moved his battery to the trunk
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Old August 22nd, 2011, 12:46 AM   #4
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http://www.v6performance.net/forums/...-off-wack.html
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Old August 22nd, 2011, 05:05 AM   #5
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Either you have multiple bad grounds or...

I found TSB 05-034, applicable to many models.

Service Bulletin
© 2005 American Honda Motor Co., Inc. – All Rights Reserved ATB 28971-31552 (0512) 1 of 4
CUSTOMER INFORMATION: The information in this bulletin is intended for use only by skilled technicians who have the proper tools, equipment,
and training to correctly and safely maintain your vehicle. These procedures should not be attempted by “do-it-yourselfers,” and you should not assume
this bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle has the condition described. To determine whether this information applies, contact an
authorized Honda automobile dealer.
December 14, 2005
05-034
Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED
Headlights Dim or DTC P1298 Is Stored in the ECM/PCM
(Supersedes 05-034, dated September 13, 2005, to update the information marked with the black bars)
SYMPTOM
The headlights dim with the engine running and the
headlights on, or DTC P1298 [electronic load detector
(ELD) circuit high voltage] is stored in the ECM/PCM
(but the headlights do not dim).
PROBABLE CAUSE
The ELD has a faulty solder joint.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
2003–04 Accord – ALL
2005 Accord (L4 2-door):
From VIN 1HGCM7...5A000001 thru
1HGCM7...5A006329
2005 Accord (L4 4-door):
From VIN 1HGCM5...5A000001 thru
1HGCM5...5A035840
From VIN 3HGCM5...5G700001 thru
3HGCM5...5G701907
All Japan-built (VIN begins with JHM)
2005 Accord (V6 2-door):
From VIN 1HGCM8...5A000001 thru
1HGCM8...5A005073
2005 Accord (V6 4-door):
From VIN 1HGCM6...5A000001 thru
1HGCM6...5A017546
2003 Element – ALL
2004 Element (2WD):
From VIN 5J6YH1...4L000001 thru
5J6YH1...4L015490
2004 Element (4WD):
From VIN 5J6YH2...4L000001 thru
5J6YH2...4L037697
2005 Odyssey:
From VIN 5FNRL38..5B000001 thru
5FNRL38..5B018359
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Accord and Odyssey: Replace the under-hood fuse/
relay box.
Element: Replace the ELD.
PARTS INFORMATION
Electronic Load Detector:
P/N 38255-S5A-003, H/C 7987571
Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box:
2003–04 Accord L4 – 2-door LX/EX, 4-door EX
P/N 38250-SDA-A21, H/C 7136617
2003–04 Accord L4 – 4-door DX
P/N 38250-SDA-A11, H/C 7136609
2003–04 Accord L4 – 4-door LX
P/N 38250-SDA-A01, H/C 7136591
2003–04 Accord V6 – All
P/N 38250-SDB-A21, H/C 7136641
2005 Accord L4 – DX
P/N 38250-SDA-A12, H/C 7773799
2005 Accord L4 – LX
P/N 38250-SDA-A02, H/C 7773781
2005 Accord L4 – EX
P/N 38250-SDA-A22, H/C 7773807
2005 Accord V6 – All
P/N 38250-SDB-A22, H/C 7773831
2005 Odyssey – LX
P/N 38250-SHJ-A01, H/C 7708191
2005 Odyssey – EX, EX-L, Touring
P/N 38250-SHJ-A21, H/C 7708209
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Failed Part: P/N 38255-S5A-003
H/C 7987571
Defect Code: 03217
Symptom Code: 07411
Skill Level: Repair Technician
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty
expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by
the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone
Office. You must request consideration, and get a
decision, before starting work.
OP# Description FRT
7301A1 Accord and Odyssey - replace the underhood
fuse/relay box
0.5
121195 Element - replace the ELD 0.4
2 of 4 05-034
DIAGNOSIS
If the headlights dim when the engine is running,
connect the HDS to the DLC:
1. With the HDS in the PGM-FI Data List, start the
engine, and let it idle.
2. Turn on the headlights.
3. Monitor the ELD value on the Data List.
• If the ELD value is less than 18 amps:
- For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A –
ACCORD
- For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B –
ODYSSEY
- For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C –
ELEMENT
• If the ELD value is greater than 18 amps,
disregard this bulletin, and continue with normal
troubleshooting.
NOTE: A faulty ELD may cause the charging
system to fluctuate between 12.5-volt and 14.5-volt
modes with the engine running and the headlights
on. This fluctuation causes the headlights to dim.
Under normal operating conditions, the charging
system operates in the 14.5-volt mode.
If the headlights do not dim, but DTC P1298 is stored
in the ECM/PCM:
• For Accord, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A –
ACCORD
• For Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B –
ODYSSEY
• For Element, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C –
ELEMENT
NOTE: When DTC P1298 is set, the charging system
is fixed in the 14.5-volt mode, preventing the headlights
from dimming.
REPAIR PROCEDURE A – ACCORD
1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box:
• Refer to page 22-71 of the 2003–05 Accord
Service Manual, or
• Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and
select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal
and Installation from the list.
2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B – ODYSSEY
1. Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box:
• Refer to page 22-85 of the 2005–06 Odyssey
Service Manual, or
• Online, enter keyword UNDER-HOOD REM, and
select Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal
and Installation from the list.
2. If necessary, clear the DTC with the HDS.
REPAIR PROCEDURE C – ELEMENT
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the
audio system. Write down the customer’s audio unit
presets.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the
battery.
3. Remove the under-hood fuse/relay box cover.
4. Release the three clips, and remove the underhood
fuse/relay box from the holder. Release the
wire harness clip from the fuse/relay box holder.
WIRE
HARNESS
CLIP
(Disconnect.)
UNDER-HOOD
FUSE/RELAY
BOX
CLIPS
CLIP
UNDER-HOOD
FUSE/RELAY
BOX HOLDER
HOLDER
05-034 3 of 4
5. Remove the lower cover from the fuse/relay box.
6. Disconnect the 3P ELD connector.
7. Remove the four screws that hold the two fuses,
then remove the fuses.
8. Release the tab that holds the ELD, and pull up on
the ELD to remove it.
9. Remove the bus bar from the ELD, and insert the
bar into the new ELD.
10. Install the new ELD and bus bar.
11. Reinstall the two fuses.
12. Reconnect the 3P ELD connector, and reinstall the
lower cover onto the fuse/relay box.
13. Reinstall the fuse/relay box and the wire harness
clip onto the holder.
UNDERSIDE OF THE
FUSE/RELAY BOX
LOWER COVER
(Pry off.)
TABS
(Six places)
3P ELD CONNECTOR
FUSE 50A
(Retain.)
FUSE 100A
(Retain.)
ELD
(Replace.)
ELD
TAB
BUS BAR
(Retain.)
4 of 4 05-034
14. Reinstall the fuse/relay box cover.
15. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
16. Clear the DTC.
17. Reset the power window control unit:
• Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and make sure
the driver’s window AUTO function does not
work.
• Start the engine.
• Push down the driver’s power window switch to
the second detent (AUTO down) to lower the
driver’s window all the way down. When the
window reaches the bottom, hold the switch in
the AUTO down position for 2 more seconds.
• Pull up the driver’s power window switch to raise
the driver’s window all the way up without
stopping. When the window reaches the top, hold
the switch in the up position for 2 more seconds.
• If the driver’s window AUTO function does not
work, repeat this power window control unit reset
procedure.
18. Do the idle learn procedure:
• Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio unit,
defogger, lights, etc.) are off.
• Start the engine, and let it warm up to its normal
operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle
twice).
• Let the engine idle (throttle closed and all
electrical items off) for 10 minutes.
19. Enter the audio system anti-theft code, and set the
clock. Enter the audio unit presets.
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Old August 22nd, 2011, 05:15 AM   #6
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Which alternator do you have? If it is the Delphi, dump it for a Pilot/Oddy denso unit.

Use 0 gauge or even 1/0 gauge for main power run to the bay then 4 gauge to the starter and fuse block. Connect the negative side of the battery to cleaned metal in the trunk. Add a 4ga ground fron the chassis to the 8mm upper bolt on the alternator to help clean up electrical noise.

Add a 1+ fared capacitor near the battery to provide power for quick surges like turning on headlights, heavy base notes thru a amp to the subs.
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Old August 22nd, 2011, 11:08 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NVA-AV6 View Post
Which alternator do you have? If it is the Delphi, dump it for a Pilot/Oddy denso unit.

Use 0 gauge or even 1/0 gauge for main power run to the bay then 4 gauge to the starter and fuse block. Connect the negative side of the battery to cleaned metal in the trunk. Add a 4ga ground fron the chassis to the 8mm upper bolt on the alternator to help clean up electrical noise.

Add a 1+ fared capacitor near the battery to provide power for quick surges like turning on headlights, heavy base notes thru a amp to the subs.
thanks for all your help Paul and Bobby, ill try this out
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Old August 22nd, 2011, 11:44 PM   #8
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Old August 23rd, 2011, 02:11 PM   #9
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theres no reason for using that big guage wire waste of money.ive use my 4 gauge for the past two years.i do have the head light issue.havent figured it out.is what is an automatic thing for me to do now is to turn the lights on before i start the car.fixed!i know its not hurting anything doing that.so i put find out why it did that on the back burner.my theory on my it is doing it is due to the hall from the power wire from the trunk up to the fuse box. the ELD doesnt like that at all and nothing u will be able to do to change it.
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Old August 23rd, 2011, 02:37 PM   #10
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his running a fat system also. I think 0 gauge would be better then 4 gauge.
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Old August 23rd, 2011, 02:40 PM   #11
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understandable,but i doubt it will fix anything.the cars have eld.which is disigned for the way they are factory with the battery.but guess it worth a shot..
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Old August 23rd, 2011, 03:07 PM   #12
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Voltage Drop Calculator, Amperage Tables, Wire and Cable Technical information
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Old August 25th, 2011, 11:16 PM   #13
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you have a bad ground, "grind all paint off to bare metal for better ground". i'm running 1/0 GA tsunami cable, with fuse block 200amp,optima battery, with CAP. also upgrade to 06 ridgeline denso alternator 130amps.
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Old August 25th, 2011, 11:30 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trandynasty View Post
you have a bad ground, "grind all paint off to bare metal for better ground". i'm running 1/0 GA tsunami cable, with fuse block 200amp,optima battery, with CAP. also upgrade to 06 ridgeline denso alternator 130amps.
nice info, do you have any "grounding kit" and are you having this trouble or not?


dont want to threadjack but i have been searching for a battery relocation DIY anybody?


Thanks
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Old August 31st, 2011, 12:54 PM   #15
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any updates?
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Old August 31st, 2011, 08:05 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elliott View Post
nice info, do you have any "grounding kit" and are you having this trouble or not?


dont want to threadjack but i have been searching for a battery relocation DIY anybody?


Thanks

I forgot...the only way I fixed this in the past was with one of Paul's grounding kits....
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Old August 31st, 2011, 10:10 PM   #17
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not yet, i ordered the 1/0 gauge, im waiting on that
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Old September 1st, 2011, 09:50 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elliott View Post
nice info, do you have any "grounding kit" and are you having this trouble or not?


dont want to threadjack but i have been searching for a battery relocation DIY anybody?


Thanks
Talk to Marquis Fogg at KMOD Performance - Home - high point, NC. He did a great job of relocating my battery under the left fenderwell of my car.
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Old September 25th, 2011, 08:38 PM   #19
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i sanded the paint off but it didnt help, gonna get the 1/0 gauge and run that to see if it works
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Old March 20th, 2012, 01:44 PM   #20
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I am bringing this thread back to life. I did the same thing and had the exact same issues. Any resolution to this???
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Old March 21st, 2012, 02:18 PM   #21
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Anyone?
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Old March 22nd, 2012, 01:30 PM   #22
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The best wire power to us is Welding wire. The wire they use to pass current not what the use to weld. Its thicker than 0gauge or 1/0. My friend is using this and thats what im switching to. Just go to a welding store or a place that sales actual welding wire and ask.

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Old March 23rd, 2012, 01:51 PM   #23
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This is what I followed. Still need help guys
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Old June 13th, 2013, 08:55 AM   #24
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hey guys

just an update

finally ran a "O" gauge wire just for the engine to the rear battery, problem solved

running a 4 gauge wire for the fuse back to battery
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