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Old October 26th, 2014, 02:52 PM   #1
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I haven't the slightest clue? (Exhaust system)

So I've been looking into getting a CAI (probably AEM or K&N) and I've read that they don't do much unless you get an exhaust system to compliment it. So I looked into those, and I found this Borla® 140080 - Honda Accord 2007 Stainless Steel Cat-Back Exhaust System that looked pretty decent and got good reviews, but I also read that those don't do much unless you get a J-pipe, so I looked and found this: RV6 Performance | V3 Jpipe & HFPC Combo that looks like it would work.
Would all 3 of those be needed for a successful airflow system on a 2007 Honda Accord Coupe v6 3.0L EX-L?

Are those parts compatible? Please help me out here, give me suggestions that are in ENGLISH not like "delete the cats, slam the res, ****in rice the car fag" cause I don't understand that language.

Also provide links to places where I can buy your suggestions.
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Old October 26th, 2014, 03:01 PM   #2
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the borla catback is pretty good and works well with the stock stuff. You can upgrade the j-pipe and add HFPC to make more power.

There is a CAI in the FS section they sound good. power gain is variable.
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Old October 26th, 2014, 03:23 PM   #3
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Thanks for the response. Is the J-pipe I selected going to fit with the exhaust I selected? I'm assuming the exhaust fits onto the end of the jpipe? Or does the HFPC replace a part on the exhaust? Or how does it all go together?
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Old October 26th, 2014, 03:40 PM   #4
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all the j-pipe will fit. the oem just has a smaller diameter. Richie v3 delete the 3rd cat and goes straight to your exhaust. Think of the j-pipe as a downpipe

They all bolt on and fit.

Precats will replace the catalytic converter coming off the heads. You don't have to change them out if you don't want to. You will get more power though. (think of these as your headers kinda)
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Old October 26th, 2014, 04:26 PM   #5
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If your going to do an intake make sure its a CAI, and not short ram (do next to nothing). I would personally do a custom 4" intake if your going to do one at all.
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Old October 26th, 2014, 04:35 PM   #6
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Thanks. What's a pre-cat? Also I don't have the resources or skill to make a custom intake, I'd rather just buy one that's already built. Plus I like the style the prebuilt ones have.
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Old October 26th, 2014, 04:40 PM   #7
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I had a cheap AutoZone sri at first, did literally nothing (but it sounded cool lol) then I made a custom 4in cai and I spin tires coming out of first and chirp 3rd pretty hard now 😃 and it's cheap! Made mine excluding the filter for >$70
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Old October 26th, 2014, 04:44 PM   #8
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I'm looking to spend 300$ on a cai though.
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Old October 26th, 2014, 04:47 PM   #9
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I'm looking to spend 300$ on a cai though.
Oh well if you have the money then more power to you! But for $300 you can make yourself an intake and get some ported runners. Just giving some suggestions.
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Old October 26th, 2014, 04:58 PM   #10
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http://www.v6performance.net/forums/...-part-out.html

probably 100 bucks done
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Old October 26th, 2014, 05:16 PM   #11
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I want new if possible. Remember, I'm a spoiled white privileged bastard
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Old October 26th, 2014, 05:26 PM   #12
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well check amazon, ebay, or carid. for new.
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Old October 26th, 2014, 05:48 PM   #13
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Is carid good? I know they have a really awesome website but how is their shipping speed and reliability
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Old October 27th, 2014, 07:55 AM   #14
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J-pipe is a lot more worthwhile than a catback if you have to chose one.
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Old October 27th, 2014, 08:00 AM   #15
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Amazon.com: Airaid 100-400 UBI (U-Build-It) Intake Kit: Automotive

you could get this and build your own. That's what I did. It is much more heat resistant than a metal pipe.
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Old October 27th, 2014, 09:10 AM   #16
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I want new if possible. Remember, I'm a spoiled white privileged bastard
In that case, you should just buy my heads. I'll only charge you $2,000 shipped.
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Old October 27th, 2014, 12:48 PM   #17
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A pre-cat is a cat before the main cat. Our exhaust manifold is cast into the head with one exit route per head where each pre-cat is attached. From there the two pre-cats bolt to the j-pipe which bolts to the main cat which is bolted to the cat back. The catback consists of a resonator, then mid muffler then split to the two rear mufflers. Pcds eliminate the pre-cats and some after market j-pipes eliminate the main cat. Do you want a car with no cats? Glad you changed your mind about mods. You complained about the cost of mods in the past so that's why ppl are giving money saving suggestions.
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Old October 29th, 2014, 10:18 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottwax View Post
J-pipe is a lot more worthwhile than a catback if you have to chose one.
This^
Quote:
Originally Posted by simione View Post
Amazon.com: Airaid 100-400 UBI (U-Build-It) Intake Kit: Automotive

you could get this and build your own. That's what I did. It is much more heat resistant than a metal pipe.
A lot of this.^
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Originally Posted by michaellowrider View Post
A pre-cat is a cat before the main cat. Our exhaust manifold is cast into the head with one exit route per head where each pre-cat is attached. From there the two pre-cats bolt to the j-pipe which bolts to the main cat which is bolted to the cat back. The catback consists of a resonator, then mid muffler then split to the two rear mufflers. Pcds eliminate the pre-cats and some after market j-pipes eliminate the main cat. Do you want a car with no cats? Glad you changed your mind about mods. You complained about the cost of mods in the past so that's why ppl are giving money saving suggestions.
Definitely read this.^


My suggestion, High flow pre cats to allow for best flow without causing massive negative rasp on 99% of exhaust systems when compared to pre cat deletes.
The J-pipe choice has been long argued;
The RV6 model that deletes the 3rd cat is known as best for the lower rpm range, still an improvement over all rpms (however is illegal and easily spottable if emissions actually checks)
The ATLP model that does not delete the 3rd cat has been known for better high rpm range power, still an improvement over all rpms (allows for a legal setup)
all others can eat a poop.
--High rpm--above 3700-4000


A high flow 3rd cat is a must if you do not delete it, and is a power gain on it's own with a 1-2hp negligence when compared to open pipe.(have one I no longer need too, heat retaining ceramic coating included I believe) the 3rd cat can be worth near 10 hp by itself and allows for larger piping to be used on the rest of the system.
--all HF 3rd cats are the same performance, but get the ceramic coating--


The Airaid kit will be the best idea for an intake. At 4-5", a CAI system, and a cone filter the size of your head, airflow is of no shortage. The next best is the AEM v2 two stage intake, while being more restrictive at high rpm when compared to an Airaid or custom 4".
--intakes will not be where you make power in the air system unless using the stock resonator intake.
-they sound and look cool


As far as everything behind the cat(mufflers, dual, single, resonator, cutout, etc.) there is too much preference to make a solid recommendation. I believe a single pipe with 2.75-3.25" diameter or single 2.75-3.25" to dual 2.25-2.5" have been the highest gain sizes so far. Get it custom made, get the pipe mandrel bent not crushed, put a big resonator on it if you choose to use one.

This is about as much general info as can be provided. Commonly accepted "best" ideas for sound, hp, torque, cost, and legality are either;

-RV6 HFPC, RV6 J-Pipe, 3" single to a (12-18"?) magnaflow resonator, dual 2.25" or 2.5" pipes and your choice of high flow mufflers.

-RV6 PCDelete, ATLP J-Pipe, HFlow 3rd cat, 3" single, very large(6x24"?) magnaflow resonator, to either 3" single muffler or dual 2.5" mufflers


As far as the intake, Airaid, DIY with some piping for a more personal feel, or AEM V2. All with the largest conical AEM filter you can fit on the pipe, minimal to no changes that we can perceive other than intake sound between the three with maybe a minor loss to AEM V2.


Anybody contradict any of the above statements? Might not have gotten the resonator sizes correct, but someone does have that info. I know 3.5" single pipe has been proven to a loss compared to 3", and the only note worth difference between PCD and HFPC is PCD will cause rasp and look much cooler under the hood of your hoon. 2.5" single pipe after the 3rd cat will yield best torque however limit HP(iffy on this one?)
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Old October 31st, 2014, 06:13 PM   #19
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I have the XLR8 v2 J-pipe, gained power everywhere, enough my son, who isn't really a car person, noticed it. It does eliminate the 3rd cat but you won't get a check engine light since it isn't monitored. If your state doesn't do a visual inspection, you'll have no trouble passing emissions. Here in Texas, they just plug into the OBDII port and check for codes. No codes, you pass.
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