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Old November 4th, 2014, 06:56 PM   #1
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AVGAY Redo

So my current build is getting pretty messy. Gonna start a new build with the same car.

Current mods:
6 Speed Coupe with 220K MILES on ORIGINAL Engine
4" Intake with AEM 9" Cone
ZDX TB
3.7 TL-SHAWD Manifold
P2R Spacer + Gasket
Ported and polished runners and heads
RL Cams
RV6 PCD v3
XLR8 J-pipe
Stock diameter with original res + mid muffler and single exit conversion to a 2.5 magnaflow
UR underdrive pulley
Currently running a j32a3 ECU 2005

Suspension:
ISC Race coils 14/10
Skunk2 front camber arm
Ingalls Rear camber toe kit
Stoptech street performance pads with centric high carbon rotor
Some weight reduction


To do list:
Full 2.5 inch exhaust starting at the catback. Got to get rid of the narrow piping and all the res/midmuffler with a 2.5 magnaflow resonator. After that maybe go with ebay/OBX Headers. 2.5 primary to 3" collector and a 3" catback vs 2.25 primary to 2.5 collector. of course if i do go ebay route, i will convert all flanges to v-bands
Engine starting to eat quite a bit of oil. I think i will port and polish my RL J35a8 heads and put new seals up top and pick up a j32a3 motor for around 200 bucks. Or maybe i should just finish building my j35 in a j32a3 block.
When i do decide to do the motor either next spring or sometime before that, new LW flywheel is a must. My dual mass system is sort of not the best when i did the clutch a couple months ago.
Hondata is a must have as well
Little bit more weight reduction doesnt hurt. Get rid of all sound deadening inside the car including tar.
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Old November 4th, 2014, 08:03 PM   #2
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Two questions,
1. Do you still have the stock cat and is there a planned replacement/deletion if not?
2. High rpm power band or lower rpm power band :-)

Excited to see more work from you. Agree on the sound deadening depending on how many panels/what you used, can help with retaining some sound quality at low lb cost if you want.

Edit: three questions.
3. Is the P2R spacer dual thermally gasketed and stock height, and are there plans to modify the height of it?
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Old November 4th, 2014, 08:12 PM   #3
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I have pcd and j pipe. Might go eBay for a bigger sizing. I'm looking for more top end power.

The p2r is the thermal gasket on bottom then the p2r spacer than the stock gasket to the manifold.

I got plans coming to take that p2r spacer out and do something crazy
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Old November 4th, 2014, 08:14 PM   #4
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Planning to remove all sound dedeading. The one inside the hood is a pita to get to so maybe have to wait till next year or when I do motor swap.

Might pull out the dash and carpet this weekend and start the last of the weight saving before buying stuff to save weight
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Old November 4th, 2014, 08:29 PM   #5
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Fyi if you go ebay be ready for your car to sound like a straight piped d series civic lol. Mine does but I can tell a different in performance. I'm looking for a resonator now to hopefully get my deep tone back.
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Old November 4th, 2014, 08:30 PM   #6
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I am full carless right now. Did u have another setup with rv6 pcd?
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Old November 4th, 2014, 08:36 PM   #7
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I have pcd and j pipe. Might go eBay for a bigger sizing. I'm looking for more top end power.

The p2r is the thermal gasket on bottom then the p2r spacer than the stock gasket to the manifold.

I got plans coming to take that p2r spacer out and do something crazy
I smell laughing, gassily.

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Planning to remove all sound dedeading. The one inside the hood is a pita to get to so maybe have to wait till next year or when I do motor swap.

Might pull out the dash and carpet this weekend and start the last of the weight saving before buying stuff to save weight
Remove the hood, 6 bolts, and easy to do with 2 ppl, not bad to do with 1. Makes it much easier, but did you mean stock sound deadening or upgraded?

Start with that stereo unit if you can live without it. that beast by itself is probably upward of 10-15 lbs, with 2-3 lbs a speaker if you decide to remove those. theres upwards of 20 lbs of deadening, fabric, and etc in the trunk, spray it down with some plastidip and it actually doesn't look half bad.

Also if you feel safe doing this, there are two metal bumpers, behind the bumpers, that are meant to prevent major frame damage in a minor incident. Things are upwards of 30 lbs combined.

There's your first 100, while keeping the rear seats A/C and P/S. Makes up for about 3% of your weight. Good luck. Btw you can underdrive the alternator itself usually ontop of the UR pulley given that you have a good battery. Speaking of batteries getting a smaller higher power battery is good for another 10-15 while maintaining CCA(kinetik and XS), but that starts to get into the costing money area.
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Old November 4th, 2014, 08:36 PM   #8
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No. Went straight with Amazon pcd and jpipe. I have 3rd cat now but going to replace it with a resonator.
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Old November 4th, 2014, 08:38 PM   #9
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No. Went straight with Amazon pcd and jpipe. I have 3rd cat now but going to replace it with a resonator.
What catback do u have? I'm pretty much straight thru right now with 3 mufflers
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Old November 4th, 2014, 08:39 PM   #10
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3in from the cat back hks muffler.
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Old November 4th, 2014, 08:40 PM   #11
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I smell laughing, gassily.



Remove the hood, 6 bolts, and easy to do with 2 ppl, not bad to do with 1. Makes it much easier, but did you mean stock sound deadening or upgraded?

Start with that stereo unit if you can live without it. that beast by itself is probably upward of 10-15 lbs, with 2-3 lbs a speaker if you decide to remove those. theres upwards of 20 lbs of deadening, fabric, and etc in the trunk, spray it down with some plastidip and it actually doesn't look half bad.

Also if you feel safe doing this, there are two metal bumpers, behind the bumpers, that are meant to prevent major frame damage in a minor incident. Things are upwards of 30 lbs combined.

There's your first 100, while keeping the rear seats A/C and P/S. Makes up for about 3% of your weight. Good luck. Btw you can underdrive the alternator itself usually ontop of the UR pulley given that you have a good battery. Speaking of batteries getting a smaller higher power battery is good for another 10-15, but that starts to get into the costing money area.
Trunk is completely strip as well as headliner. The speakers are pretty light IMO. I need ac and PS lol. I've took out some of the plastic absorber but leaving the bumper beams in. Stock radio is heavy lol. I got a 11lb battery already.
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Old November 4th, 2014, 08:42 PM   #12
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3in from the cat back hks muffler.
Ya my next revision of my exhaust will be rv6 pcd xlr8 jpipe v2. 2.5 all the way back to a 22x4 magnaflow can to a 2.5 magnaflow muffler
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Old November 4th, 2014, 08:46 PM   #13
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Strip all dedeading and turn it into a race car
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Old November 4th, 2014, 08:52 PM   #14
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Full race dawg. Tape a turbo on while you're at it.
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Old November 4th, 2014, 08:54 PM   #15
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Full race dawg. Tape a turbo on while you're at it.
lol thats what i plan on doing with the ebay headers a couple year down the road.
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Old November 4th, 2014, 08:56 PM   #16
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Trunk is completely strip as well as headliner. The speakers are pretty light IMO. I need ac and PS lol. I've took out some of the plastic absorber but leaving the bumper beams in. Stock radio is heavy lol. I got a 11lb battery already.
2lbs is pretty light lol.
however 2x4 is 8, and the rear speakers are heavier than front.

Damn, you're making me pick more straws than I might have.

Is keeping 5 seats necessary? or 2 for that matter?

The rear seat belt units are worth 5-7lbs combined alone. Rear seats and the bucket section weighs a ton, there's rear airbags that are worth a few lbs, sound deadening under the carpet, sound deadening under the rear panel, support bars that go behind the rear seats (may be better kept in if you want a stabler frame instead of a straight liner), wheel well liners, extra material not needed in the door panels, the door panels themselves, locks, window motors, switching windows to lexan replacements, the moonroof/glass, we got options.

JW how lightweight vs functional and convenient you looking to go? I mean hell there's a 5lb battery that's makeable that doesn't even include the option of my possibly 2lb battery.

Btw the glovebox is also surprisingly heavy. I think there's actually a weight in it IIRC.
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Old November 4th, 2014, 09:06 PM   #17
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DIY j-pipe if you want 3 in
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Old November 4th, 2014, 09:22 PM   #18
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2lbs is pretty light lol.
however 2x4 is 8, and the rear speakers are heavier than front.

Damn, you're making me pick more straws than I might have.

Is keeping 5 seats necessary? or 2 for that matter?

The rear seat belt units are worth 5-7lbs combined alone. Rear seats and the bucket section weighs a ton, there's rear airbags that are worth a few lbs, sound deadening under the carpet, sound deadening under the rear panel, support bars that go behind the rear seats (may be better kept in if you want a stabler frame instead of a straight liner), wheel well liners, extra material not needed in the door panels, the door panels themselves, locks, window motors, switching windows to lexan replacements, the moonroof/glass, we got options.

JW how lightweight vs functional and convenient you looking to go? I mean hell there's a 5lb battery that's makeable that doesn't even include the option of my possibly 2lb battery.

Btw the glovebox is also surprisingly heavy. I think there's actually a weight in it IIRC.
oh yes. i remember the diet tl thread on taking out the metal plate. i did that with the steering column.

Rear seats are currently a necessity. however if i do go for spirited drives, i do remove just the seats.

my car didnt come with side airbags just the ones in the seats and the front two that has shrapnel when deployed

not planing on taking out any structural as i plan on doing time attack next season.
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Old November 4th, 2014, 09:45 PM   #19
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oh yes. i remember the diet tl thread on taking out the metal plate. i did that with the steering column.

Rear seats are currently a necessity. however if i do go for spirited drives, i do remove just the seats.
Those door panels may be worth quite a few lbs(the metal part) and shouldn't cause structural issues, as well as lexan rear/door windows(surprisingly cheap and durable)

uhm... steering column? I have no recollection on that.
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Old November 5th, 2014, 05:48 AM   #20
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Yes door panels are required for my future racing class.

The steering column inside the plastic case there's a metal plate worth a couple lbs
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Old November 5th, 2014, 06:20 AM   #21
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Yes door panels are required for my future racing class.

The steering column inside the plastic case there's a metal plate worth a couple lbs
link to that class may help out(for your area/league)

also information on that would be appreciated, since you and I both know that TL diet thread is... well very extensively long.
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Old November 5th, 2014, 09:49 AM   #22
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pretty much front door cards dash n center console.

the chassis does feel a bit soft imo. need some bracing
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Old November 5th, 2014, 10:38 AM   #23
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Since it seems you are going all out with your engine mods and weight reduction, why not go 3"? I have 2 3" Vibrant Street Power straight through mufflers if you are interested. If not, just get another 3" muffler and get 3" piping.

AVGAY Redo? Wth does that even mean?
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Old November 5th, 2014, 11:29 AM   #24
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AVGAY Redo? Wth does that even mean?
I've been wondering the same thing...
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Old November 5th, 2014, 08:35 PM   #25
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I might recommend keeping in mind how much power you plan on trying to put down in the future and the types of racing you plan on doing. If it is anywhere near what mine was doing you don't want to go too far with cutting weight. At the drag strip I found myself loading my car up with everyone's tools and my buddies to shorten my times due to traction issues even though I have LSD. The same thing was noticeable at low speeds screwing around, the car felt much faster with a car load of people than just by myself where I just spun everywhere.

If you're just concerned about top end, high speed racing, go ahead and strip her. I can only imagine how much more spirited it will make the car feel up top.
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Old November 5th, 2014, 08:47 PM   #26
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i run 255 ad08 in summer. it puts down power nicely so far lol
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Old November 8th, 2014, 03:25 PM   #27
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damn going to be a long delay in project. got rear ended. car is fine but body isnt
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Old November 8th, 2014, 03:47 PM   #28
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^ no bueno... feel better
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Old November 14th, 2014, 07:57 AM   #29
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Sounds like a nice build and similar to my 03 CLS 6 Speed. I am just running a full bolt on J32a2. Last dyno I put down 265 whp and 237 wtq with stock internals and no tune.

Car is at King Motorsports now getting custom header and single 3" exhaust. I expect it to make 280-290 whp and 240 wtq after exhaust untuned. When I tune next year with aem standalone I expect almost 300 whp and 260-270 wtq.

They are also welding in a roll bar for me. Gonna have it weighed and corner balanced also.

I have removed around 600 lbs from my car. I still have A/C and power steering. I have been using the car mainly for autocross for the last 2-3 years. I plan to use it more as a track car next year and use my new focus st more for autocross.

I think I prefer to keep a track car N/A. I also want to keep my internals stock so I can buy a replacement motor for 600 and swap it in easily and not have to worry about blowing an expensive built motor.

I made a new build thread on acurazine under 2g CL section with same username if you want to check it out.

PS

Sorry about accident. I hope it wasn't too bad. Is the car salvageable?
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Old November 14th, 2014, 09:26 AM   #30
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3" exhaust ftw it shifts the power band to the upper rpm.
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