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Old December 27th, 2014, 10:02 PM   #1
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whos running nitrous?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Zn7K-wskn8

whos running nitrous? I would like to piece out a kit since it seems like the most bang for the buck with a progressive controller for two stage.

please school me.
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Old December 27th, 2014, 10:35 PM   #2
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You would be dumb to run Nitrous

What do you want to know? Give me a month or so and I'll have a direct port set up ready to go, and you wont have destroy a $400-$1200 (3.7 and DTB) Intake Manifold.
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Old December 27th, 2014, 10:46 PM   #3
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what is a good shot to run 50-75? which wet kit do you recommend? safety mechanism?
Do you use nos on your daily drive to pass people and etc. How much to refill a 10 gallon and how log does it last.


dom said he can tune my car.
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Old December 28th, 2014, 02:55 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by thisaznboi88 View Post
what is a good shot to run 50-75? which wet kit do you recommend? safety mechanism?
Do you use nos on your daily drive to pass people and etc. How much to refill a 10 gallon and how log does it last.


dom said he can tune my car.
whats the mileage on your car? thats not exactly the most promising video w/a check engine light on

the easiest way to ruin a motor would probably installing Nitrous

if your thinking $400-500 is enough for a proper kit, its probably closer to double that
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Old December 28th, 2014, 08:29 AM   #5
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Video is not my car. Just some random guy running it pre-Hondata.

115000 on the short block and 5-7k on the built cylinder heads.

I never said anything about 400-500 dollars. I am going to buying rpm switch, fuel pressure switch, bottle warmer, on/off Switch, wot switch, already running water meth for 110oct and detonation suppression, and it's getting tuned with Hondata on top of everything
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Old December 28th, 2014, 09:02 AM   #6
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[QUOTE=thisaznboi88;2476665]what is a good shot to run 50-75? which wet kit do you recommend? safety mechanism?
Do you use nos on your daily drive to pass people and etc. How much to refill a 10 gallon and how log does it last.


dom said he can tune my car.[/QUOTE

That video is actually a member on here. He has an AT and actually has a thread on here about it.

Lol, I don't spray on a daily basis to pass people, my car is quick enough NA to do that. I have opened the bottle and sprayed on cars I assumed would be faster (Shelby Stang, SS Camaro, etc.)

I prefer Nitrous over other power adders because I can use it when I want, thus not straining the engine constantly. Cost about $30 to fill my 10# bottle at Pep Boys Speed shop, but price will depend on your local market. People recommended window switches but get a good one. Quite a few of nitrous back fires have been caused by faulty units or people not knowin how to install them. Some have failed and caused the nitrous to spray constantly. I personally don't run a window switch. You should always use nitrous above 3k rpm, and I have never been in a race when I was WOT below that, even from a launch I don't WOT till 4K+.

I have the Zex Unversial 6cyl Wet kit which I bought off eBay for I think $380. The bottle opener was $180 and warmer $130? And pressure gauge. I also bought some extra jets are only a few bucks. There is another 8th gen on here that runs it also. This is th unit I will turn into a direct port system. 75shot is safe, take 2* of time out and make sure the AFR is around 11.2-11.8 when squeezing. My DD tune at WOT is 12.8-13 AFR, and when I spray I'm 11.2-11.8, so I run a tad rich NA at WOT but I keep one tune on the car. You can play around with Fuel Jet sizes but that was the best I could do with 410 injectors and jets from Zex.
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NA.... Till I Spray
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Old December 28th, 2014, 09:13 AM   #7
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150k on block, 40k on J37 heads. 3 bottles at 100shot, 2 bottles on 75shot.

I can get 20ish single gear pulls from a bottle and only run the 10lb bottle down to about 3lbs. Anything below that the pressure is iffy.
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Old December 28th, 2014, 09:55 AM   #8
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thanks for your input. i might run out of injectors since i am only running 310cc from a tls. I was thinking about the NX kit with the tps sensor, bottle warmer, purge valve (needed?), hard on/off switch, and window switch with first gear lock out.

looking at around 700-800 so far.

RPM Activated Window Switch Lifetime GUARANTEE It's Also A Memory Tach | eBay

or
15982 WOT RPM Activated Window Switch | eBay

bottle warmer
Nitrous Oxide Bottle Warmer Heater Kit NX 10lb Bottle Warmer Black Color | eBay

tps switch
Nitrous Express TPS Voltage Sensing TPS Activation Switch | eBay

nx kit
Nitrous Express Proton Series 35 75HP Nitrous System Kit w 10lb Bottle | eBay

fuel pressure switch
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nex-15718/overview/

god wiring is going to be a *****
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Old December 28th, 2014, 10:24 AM   #9
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[QUOTE=accord325;2476729]
Quote:
Originally Posted by thisaznboi88 View Post
what is a good shot to run 50-75? which wet kit do you recommend? safety mechanism?
Do you use nos on your daily drive to pass people and etc. How much to refill a 10 gallon and how log does it last.


dom said he can tune my car.[/QUOTE

That video is actually a member on here. He has an AT and actually has a thread on here about it.

Lol, I don't spray on a daily basis to pass people, my car is quick enough NA to do that. I have opened the bottle and sprayed on cars I assumed would be faster (Shelby Stang, SS Camaro, etc.)

I prefer Nitrous over other power adders because I can use it when I want, thus not straining the engine constantly. Cost about $30 to fill my 10# bottle at Pep Boys Speed shop, but price will depend on your local market. People recommended window switches but get a good one. Quite a few of nitrous back fires have been caused by faulty units or people not knowin how to install them. Some have failed and caused the nitrous to spray constantly. I personally don't run a window switch. You should always use nitrous above 3k rpm, and I have never been in a race when I was WOT below that, even from a launch I don't WOT till 4K+.

I have the Zex Unversial 6cyl Wet kit which I bought off eBay for I think $380. The bottle opener was $180 and warmer $130? And pressure gauge. I also bought some extra jets are only a few bucks. There is another 8th gen on here that runs it also. This is th unit I will turn into a direct port system. 75shot is safe, take 2* of time out and make sure the AFR is around 11.2-11.8 when squeezing. My DD tune at WOT is 12.8-13 AFR, and when I spray I'm 11.2-11.8, so I run a tad rich NA at WOT but I keep one tune on the car. You can play around with Fuel Jet sizes but that was the best I could do with 410 injectors and jets from Zex.
Are you running a dry kit right now? I dont see why your injectors matter if you are using a wet kit, but if I'm reading it right, you're going to use it for the direct port kit later, right?
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Old December 28th, 2014, 10:30 AM   #10
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his build thread

http://www.v6performance.net/forums/...-build-22.html
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Old December 28th, 2014, 10:39 AM   #11
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^ Yes, wet kit. They are also the "Safer" option between the Wet and Dry.

I guess the Injectors dont really matter. I was being exact with my set up, others will differ. I can play around more with my AFR using injectors instead of swapping fuel jets around. The Zex suggest fuel jet ran my nitrous super rich (10.2-10.8), so I put a smaller Jet in and tweaked my NA WOT AFR a hair to reach what I would prefer for the N20 AFR. I wasn't able to find a jet that would run 11.2-11.8 with the NA AFR around 13.2-13.4.

Zex suggest 46/26 for 100 shot. AFR was super rich so I ran 46/21. Thinking the same would apply to the 75shot I stepped the Fuel jet down one size (19) but the AFR ran lean, go figure. So my current jet sizes are 40/21, which by zex is 75hp jets. My 100shot set up was 46(100shot N20) and 21(75shot fuel). Hopefully this makes sense

My determining factor for jet size is based on my N20 AFR. To run a single map I wanted to find the middle ground for NA and N20 AFR. 11.2-11.8 was my goal. Like I said, I ended up 12.8 AFR NA and 11.2-11.8 AFR N20 which I feel comfortable with. Stepping up or down a jet size ran me either rich or lean on N20 so I did the last tweaks with Injector.

http://www.zex.com/zx/nitrous-fuel-j...-diameterhtml/
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Old December 28th, 2014, 10:46 AM   #12
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yup makes sense to me, but could it be that you are running dtm (dual throttle body manifold) or the j37a1 heads (due to combustion chamber miss matching) which causes the different between fueling? ill play around with it when i get it. hopefully sometime after tax season.

I was also following this guy thread. his car made 281whp and 304wtq on an auto. so with any shot 35-75 ill be over the 300whp mark.

Nitrous Runners Chime in - AcuraZine Community
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Old December 28th, 2014, 10:52 AM   #13
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yup makes sense to me, but could it be that you are running dtm (dual throttle body manifold) or the j37a1 heads (due to combustion chamber miss matching) which causes the different between fueling? ill play around with it when i get it. hopefully sometime after tax season.

I was also following this guy thread. his car made 281whp and 304wtq on an auto. so with any shot 35-75 ill be over the 300whp mark.

Nitrous Runners Chime in - AcuraZine Community
You'll be well over the 300 mark. I was in the 360 area till my clutch started giving out. If your on OEM (Luk) like me, I suggest 55-75 shot. The first bottle on 100shot was great, but the clutch wouldn't hold it anymore. When I stepped down to a 75shot I swear to you my car got faster. Think about that before going crazy on with nitrous.
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NA.... Till I Spray
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Old December 28th, 2014, 10:57 AM   #14
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I am on the oem style clutch. 75 shot is the max I would do. Supposedly I am at 270whp according to the edyno.

i should also add those spark plug you listed on my grocery list. 800 bucks for up to 75hp is not too bad. ~10 for 1hp
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Old December 28th, 2014, 11:21 AM   #15
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^ FYI, just about every kit comes with a TPS (WOT) switch so you dont have to buy one. Bottle warmer is helpful, even in FL. I thought I wouldn't need one but even on just a cool night my bottle pressure was only around 600psi. I bought the zex plug in warmer so I didn't have to do anymore hard wiring!
ZEX 82045 Plug in Nitrous Bottle Heater Maintains Bottle Pressure | eBay
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Old December 29th, 2014, 08:50 PM   #16
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325 have you run into any issues with the blazingly hot days effecting bottle temps? I've considered this and I'm not worried about the cold days but hot days seem to be risky.

WOT switch combined with either one of the Summit racing or NOS window/double window switches seems to be the safest bet on setups. I know that summit's wont reopen the nozzle until after your RPM drops below the low rpm limit. Adding a WOT switch to the window means you can still run the car into higher rpm as long as you dont hit the floor.

Or move the WOT switch to somewhere like a steering wheel button that will stick in like the Mode button. Window switch will open but not activate the shot if the mode button isn't activated, and when it is activated you'll still have to hit the window to activate the shot.

That said, people do this safely when they go with good brand gear. People blow up when they do a mexi-mod with a flipswitch and a bobby pin behind the gas pedal.
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Old December 30th, 2014, 07:41 AM   #17
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^ That was way too complicated, lol. If your doing all of that just keep the arming switch the unit comes with and like you said, do a push button activation.

The only issue I had, and was super minor was a fuse for the management unit. Opened the bottle, hit WOT and no nitrous. There is an inline fuse for the arming switch which blew. 5 min later I was squeezing nitrous once again. I also tracked with the nitrous, made I think 5 passes, 3 on Nitrous. I believe it to be much clutch hatting life, but I actually had traction all night, even when spraying out of the hole.
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Old December 30th, 2014, 06:32 PM   #18
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I'm on auto with no flashpro, gotta get creative since I can't just swap a clutch in.

That was the simple version too.
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Old January 1st, 2015, 04:27 PM   #19
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what plugs do u run with nos?
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Old January 1st, 2015, 07:12 PM   #20
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what plugs do u run with nos?
It's in my thread. NGK 5794..????? Exact number can be found in the link Thisazboi included a few post up. It should be the next page after the page the link brings you to
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NA.... Till I Spray
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Old January 14th, 2015, 11:29 PM   #21
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bkr7eix.2667?

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Old January 15th, 2015, 08:29 AM   #22
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bkr7eix.2667?

Higher spark, cleaner spark, no hotplug sitting in the combustion chamber which removes a little compression however does allow the cooling components to stay closer to the temperature of the head and not the temperature of the cc.

Will last about 10k less out of the usual 30-40 though. They're not built for endurance like the lasers.

Edit: and it does look much more flush with the right angle, not indented. However it puts the ground portion of the spark right where it needs to be, that little crook designed to hide the spark from incoming air and igniting early (eg. nitrous backfires from timing issues)
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Old January 23rd, 2015, 09:09 AM   #23
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I am using a wet kit, started with 75 shot and now 100 shot, and have some dynos:

Progressive controller
RPM Window
Kickdown activated
Denso IK24 spark plugs

http://www.v6performance.net/forums/...t-nitrous.html
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Old January 23rd, 2015, 08:51 PM   #24
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^ bro your awesome!
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Old January 24th, 2015, 01:06 AM   #25
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going to throw this out there
i had a first gen wit 270k i ran 125 shot (wet) on every weekend with only 1 step colder plugs and it did great. do get a test pipe. nitrous kills cats
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Old January 25th, 2015, 08:27 AM   #26
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^ agreed, no cats would be best. If I had a clutch to hold the power I would run 100+ shot on my J30. I'm going to run 150 shot on my J32 build, but I'm also getting a clutch that's rated at 690ctq that will hold it.
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Old January 25th, 2015, 10:08 AM   #27
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Clutchmaster, specs, south beach?
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Old January 25th, 2015, 12:12 PM   #28
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^ Spec 3+ (same as Simione). It's a redesign of the crappy tooth pic splines on the OEM PP and it will be matted to a Spec LWFW.
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