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Old February 5th, 2015, 10:40 AM   #1
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Brake Job and Upgrade

I recently had to do a brake job to replace the garbage the previous owner had installed. Rotors and pads. Here is my write up, hope it helps.


Tools needed:
Various sockets, I highly recommend higher quality 6pt. sockets for the bolts. I think they are 17mm, 12mm, & 10mm also I would recommend getting a quality 3/8dr. hardened (usually black like an impact socket) PH#3 bit for the retainer screws on the rotor. 21mm and 18mm box end wrench. A plastic or rubberized dead blow hammer, flat head screw driver or small pry bar for the caliper hardware. A breaker or cheater bar. Needle nose pliers with cutter. An impact driver or gun if you have access to one. A wire coat hanger. Turkey baster or vacuum pump. Brake caliper spreader tool. Rear disc multi configuration tool (looks like the box from the movie Hellraiser lol) Possibly a drill and a 5/8 carbide bit.

Parts and supplies needed:
Rotors (2 or 4, always change in pairs same with pads). Brake pads. Brake cleaner. Caliper pin lube. Shims/Clips. Caliper pin boots. Anti-seize

I purchased the Powerstop k2557-26 kit for about $250 delivered from Rockauto.com. I was expecting just four slotted and drilled rotors and the front and rear pads. But when I opened up the package I found a nice little surprise. It included all shims, clips, boots and 2 packs of the backing plate lube (disc brake quiet).


Let's get started.


Set the e-brake and break free all the lugs, raise the car and support it. Remove the lugs and wheels. Remove the two retaining screws from the rotors. You might need to soak these with PB if you don't have impact tools. You can try it with a regular ratchet first but be careful to apply pressure evenly on the screw or you'll chew it up and be using that drill I mentioned earlier. You don't have to re-use these screws as their main function was factory assembly related and serve no real purpose unless there is too much tolerance between the rotor hub and wheel hub. If you do decide to re-use them apply some anti-seize to them prior to installation.

Next, spray the entire assy. with brake parts cleaner. Remove the caliper bracket, as in the whole assembly, by removing the two 17mm bolts on the inboard side. Hang the assembly up using the coat hanger (never let your caliper assy. dangle by the line!) Remove the old rotor. You may need to give it some motivation with the hammer. Spray the new rotor down with BPC to remove any manufacturing oil residue. If the rotor isn't wobbly on the hub you don't need to re-use the screws. Remove the outboard pad and use the brake caliper spreader tool to push the piston back in. Keep an eye on the MC reservoir while doing this. Use the turkey baster or vac pump to remove excessive fluid. Once the piston is backed out remove the inboard pad and all shims/clips. Lube and assemble the new shims/clips. Re-install the whole assembly and tighten down the 17mm bracket bolts to the specified torque.

Now, remove the 12mm(?) bolts that hold the piston assy. to the bracket and hang it up with the hanger. Pull the slider pins (with the rubber boots on them) off the bracket. The boots will probably rip when you do this so be sure to clear any remaining rubber pieces. Keep track of top-side and bottom side pieces as they have slight variants and are not usually interchangeable. Clean the slider pins of any residue. Take the new boots and apply some caliper pin lube to the fat base of it and a pea sized amount right into the boot. Install the boot into the assy. first not on the pin, trust me. Once that has seated properly compress the boot with your fingers and slide the lubed pin in all the way and let go of the boot. back the pin out a few millimeters and push it back in. It should pop right onto the groove of the pin with no problem. Use your finger to "pump" the lube through the boot by depressing the pin and releasing it a few times until it travels easily and backs out with no resistance. Next, install your pads. I personally NEVER use the backing plate grease, I don't think its necessary IMO. Place the piston assy. over the pads and line it up with the slide pins. When re-installing the bolts that fasten the piston to the slider pin don't use a tool, just your fingers to start the threads. Take the 21mm BE wrench and secure the slider pin and with a ratchet tighten the bolts down. This keeps the boot from twisting itself up and ripping. Repeat for opposite side.

The Rear Brakes:

Leave the e-brake on until you have removed the rotor retaining screws and be sure to release it before trying to remove the caliper assy.
The rear is pretty much going to be the same procedure as the front utilizing the smaller sockets and wrenches. The only difference is going to be you should remove the piston assy. FIRST. This will give you much easier access to the bracket bolts. Removing that is much easier for changing out the rubber boots and lubing the pins. These cars have an integrated e-brake system so to back out the rear piston use the rear disc multi configuration tool. Some people use NN pliers or even a really large flat head screwdriver. I do not.

That's it. Pretty straight forward job, not much to it. I'm sorry I still have no idea how to add pics to posts or I'd have some up for you.


Cheers!

BTW, these brakes are EXCELLENT and I highly recommend them to anyone who doesn't want to go full racing kit, BBK or doesn't have a ton of $ but is looking for a substantial upgrade from OEM.
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Old February 5th, 2015, 11:00 AM   #2
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nice write up!

just an FYI: You could have done the legend GS dual piston caliper swap if you had the extra cash.
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Old February 5th, 2015, 11:23 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by thisaznboi88 View Post
nice write up!

just an FYI: You could have done the legend GS dual piston caliper swap if you had the extra cash.
Thanks. I'm not sure yet if I want to upgrade the calipers until I start doing the "go fast" mods. I'll prob tear it all down again and clean up and paint the OEM calipers for now. I'm thinking a high gloss black would look pretty sweet. Also, I heard on the internet somewhere that I can put a Brembo sticker on them and that adds like 80-100bhp.
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Old February 5th, 2015, 11:24 AM   #4
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use G2 paint. It doesn't flake nor crack like the VHT stuff you get at the auto store.
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Old February 5th, 2015, 11:53 AM   #5
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Yeah the G2 paint is good stuff. I did my rear calipers with it years ago and they still look nice and fresh. Plus it is much easier to apply vs using a rattle can. You don't even need to remove the caliper.
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Old February 5th, 2015, 06:27 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by StevilKnievel View Post
Also, I heard on the internet somewhere that I can put a Brembo sticker on them and that adds like 80-100bhp.
Decreases stopping distance from 60 by at least 90 feet. So from 60 you should be able to stop in 25 ft with the stickers.
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Old February 5th, 2015, 06:50 PM   #7
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I purchased this same kit. Installed it with the legend calipers and SS lines. Finished it off w black g2 paint. Whole pkg is great....plenty of stopping power for my liking.
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Old February 5th, 2015, 09:37 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by 07J30 View Post
I purchased this same kit. Installed it with the legend calipers and SS lines. Finished it off w black g2 paint. Whole pkg is great....plenty of stopping power for my liking.
Got any pics of that? You have what I'm probably going to end up with and I'd love to see how it looks after a little time.
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Old February 5th, 2015, 09:57 PM   #9
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Do the legend calipers fit on stock sized rotors without custom brackets?

Everything I find is putting them on oversized rotors...
Would adding legend calipers without changing the rotor size change the brake bias?
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Old February 6th, 2015, 09:18 AM   #10
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I'm in for info ont his too. I need to replace my pads/rotors and looking for upgrade options that won't break the bank.

AJ


Quote:
Originally Posted by State.Of.Prime View Post
Do the legend calipers fit on stock sized rotors without custom brackets?

Everything I find is putting them on oversized rotors...
Would adding legend calipers without changing the rotor size change the brake bias?
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Old February 9th, 2015, 08:53 AM   #11
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[IMG]&mpt=[CACHEBUSTER]">[/IMG]

Some pics of the new kit installed.

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Up close. SHINYYY

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We get snow here!
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Old September 1st, 2015, 07:45 AM   #12
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UPDATE:

After 6+ months with these on I would highly recommend them to someone not looking to break the bank or go BBK but still looking for great performance. The pads are still @7's & 8's the rotors are straight as an arrow and they grip like a muddafuka! For the price, most definitely worth it.
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Old September 1st, 2015, 09:57 AM   #13
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Maybe I missed it here but what did the grand total come out to ? You did good work here.
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Old September 1st, 2015, 12:15 PM   #14
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Maybe I missed it here but what did the grand total come out to ? You did good work here.
Thank you. $250 shipped with the hardware and all. Maybe a rebuild kit for the calipers would be a good idea (boots and pins) but I had done those previously. They are pretty inexpensive as well.
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Old September 1st, 2015, 01:27 PM   #15
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Oddly, one of the few things I don't trust to "good deal" companies is brake rotors. Primarily drilled and slotted ones. $50 or less per rotor doesn't leave a lot of room for manufacturing the original rotors, much less the machining process afterwards.

Then again im running some very sticky EBC red pads, and soon up to orange(at least in rear), which like very high heat running temp, which requires high pressure when cold.

High running temp, high pressure, and cheap rotors with machining on them sounds like a swiss cheese horror story to me.

But hey, just an opinion. Never been a big fan of powerstop for anything over-average DD.
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Old September 2nd, 2015, 06:47 AM   #16
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Oddly, one of the few things I don't trust to "good deal" companies is brake rotors. Primarily drilled and slotted ones. $50 or less per rotor doesn't leave a lot of room for manufacturing the original rotors, much less the machining process afterwards.

Then again im running some very sticky EBC red pads, and soon up to orange(at least in rear), which like very high heat running temp, which requires high pressure when cold.

High running temp, high pressure, and cheap rotors with machining on them sounds like a swiss cheese horror story to me.

But hey, just an opinion. Never been a big fan of powerstop for anything over-average DD.
I don't autocross or drag race so I didn't go with a Brembo or Wilwood kit for that reason. Also, I didn't want to drop 2G on brakes lol. And what you just said is the EXACT reason I updated this thread with a review of their product (powerstop). I was a bit skeptical at first for the same reason. Maybe I got lucky, Idk, but the fact remains that these are outstanding brakes and I would recommend them for sure.
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Old September 2nd, 2015, 10:06 AM   #17
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nice write up!

just an FYI: You could have done the legend GS dual piston caliper swap if you had the extra cash.
Do we need brackets to fit the Legend calipers?
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Old September 2nd, 2015, 11:54 AM   #18
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Nope. Great thread on the Legend caliper upgrade here:

http://www.v6performance.net/forums/...onversion.html
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Old September 10th, 2015, 06:22 PM   #19
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Cool! Nice!
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Old September 11th, 2015, 06:48 AM   #20
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That's the one I read. Haha
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Old October 8th, 2015, 06:28 AM   #21
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Warped 2 sets of Powerstop cross-drilled rotors on my old 98 V6 and wasted a ton of money, so I don't recommend them personally. You should never need cross-drilled or slotted rotors either unless you do auto-cross or drive your car like you stole it all the time. The key is in the pads, not in the rotors. You lose surface area going to cross-drilled or slotted when you stick with the same size rotors. Higher end luxury cars make this up by increasing the rotor size.
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Old October 8th, 2015, 11:39 PM   #22
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Warped 2 sets of Powerstop cross-drilled rotors on my old 98 V6 and wasted a ton of money, so I don't recommend them personally. You should never need cross-drilled or slotted rotors either unless you do auto-cross or drive your car like you stole it all the time. The key is in the pads, not in the rotors. You lose surface area going to cross-drilled or slotted when you stick with the same size rotors. Higher end luxury cars make this up by increasing the rotor size.
Erm... not quite. Larger rotors are also harder to heat in short bursts. As are slotted rotors. Larger luxury cars also put more stress on the braking system. Slotted or dimpled rotors are fantastic for cooling and pad cleaning. Pads max out once they reach their heat limit which if they are contacting hot rotors happens quickly. High temp pads will squeal like hell until blazing hot, and have terrible brake times before then, which usually leads to premature rotor warp from the excess pressure of pads needed. Any surface area lost to slots or dimples is counteracted by the temperature of the pads allowing the pads to work better.

Know your pads, know your rotors, know your fluid, know your car. Warped rotors isn't normal, and also isn't a manufacturer defect as if it was the cross drill would have broken not warped. Any reason you didn't just get them surfaced? Did you bed? What pads?
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