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Old July 7th, 2015, 12:11 PM   #1
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J37 mani issues post install

So just did the 3.7 mani PnP runners mani spacer and zdx TB.

As your probably guessing the idle is all over the place...surging at idle btw 1-2k like a vacuum leak. I'm going over it again but I'm pretty sure I got everything hooked back up properly.

Codes r as follows:

P0507- idle control system rpm high
P2279- intake air system leak

Those r all for now. Anyone have these codes after the install?
Do I need to take it to Honda for an idle relearn?
Really not liking driving it rite now. I read through the other threads that talked about this already.
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Old July 7th, 2015, 12:41 PM   #2
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you have a vacuum leak somewhere.
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Old July 7th, 2015, 02:57 PM   #3
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did you use new gasket? Tq them to specs and sequence?
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Old July 7th, 2015, 04:25 PM   #4
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New gaskets yes....torque sequence not really...but I was careful to use 3 rounds of tightening. My torque wrench doesn't go down that low so I used as much force to put them on as I did taking them off. They r all snug...better than the 8ft lbs called for.

Has anyone else gotten this code after installing these? I was pretty damn careful to get everything where it needed to be.

Does checking with carb cleaner work? I feel like the p2r gasket blows and mite b the culprit.

Only other thing I can think of is the injectors, but again I know they r seated well the o rings looked in good condition. I did use some wd40 on my fingers to apply to the o rings bc they were not going in without it, after the wd they slid rite in?
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Old July 7th, 2015, 04:31 PM   #5
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ooo you have the p2r gasket.... That your problem.

Mine melted and caused a CEL for 2 weeks before I took it off and replaced it with an outlaw engineering one.
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Old July 7th, 2015, 05:49 PM   #6
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Haha ya I remember hearing you saying all the problems you have had in other Threads w the p2r. Unfortunately the outlaw is discontinued to my knowledge.

Have others had problems with the p2r making a seal? Maybe I should swap it to the top of the spacer btw the spacer and the mani, it mite have an easier time sealing. Rite now it's btw the runners and the spacer which seems like a harder area to seal due to the runners intricate interlocking?
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Old July 7th, 2015, 06:19 PM   #7
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Take it apart...put it back together. Even a bad gasket wouldn't fail that quickly.

Follow the torque sequence. Double check everything.
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Old July 7th, 2015, 06:59 PM   #8
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take out the p2r gasket and run it with the oem metal one. I am sure thats your issue.
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Old July 8th, 2015, 10:39 AM   #9
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Tested everywhere I could reach with carb cleaner, all hoses, connections, gaskets, injectors. Idle never moved from 2k.

Shortly after starting the car up for the first time after install yesterday I heard what sounded like popping or cracking about 30sec in. Very subtle like when you heat cooled glass too quickly.

I'm hoping I didn't get any cracks anywhere and I don't see why I would, everything was torqued as tight as it was when I took it off.

On a side note does anyone know the torque specs for the runners?
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Old July 8th, 2015, 03:07 PM   #10
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UPDATE:

Left PnP runners and spacer on, swapped back to stock mani and TB. I also swapped the p2r gasket and stock gasket, making the p2r on top btw the mani and spacer while the stock is btw the runners and the spacer.

The result of this is good news, even idle no vac leak no bucking no codes. Car behaves just as it did before all the upgrades. This tells me there is no vac leak below the runners and the injectors are sealed properly.
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Old July 8th, 2015, 04:22 PM   #11
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wait so you are going to leave it off? i have no bucking or idle problems. i do have a slight leak somewhere in the loop tho.

what top plate did you use.
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Old July 8th, 2015, 04:45 PM   #12
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I'm Gona put it back on in the coming days and check it again. I swapped manifolds to rule out a leak below the spacer (runners or injectors).

I can tell for sure the TB plate in its fully closed position is much further open than my stock TB plate. Dunno if I can change this? Need hds maybe? I tried throttle relearn didn't help. Any ideas?

I was sure to get the 6mt top plate w the butterflies.
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Old July 8th, 2015, 05:38 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07J30 View Post
I'm gona put it back on in the coming days and check it again. I swapped manifolds to rule out a leak below the spacer (runners or injectors).

I can tell for sure the TB plate in its fully closed position is much further open than my stock TB plate. Dunno if I can change this? Need hds maybe? I tried throttle relearn didn't help. Any ideas?

I was sure to get the 6mt top plate w the butterflies.
that's really weird... i have a slight whistle at 2k rpms with light throttle, and that's about the only problem i have had with the swap. BUT i would like to know where to find the proper torque pattern and go over everything again with the proper specs. That might make my whistle go away otherwise its probably my janky 4 inch sri

it probably took about a hour of driving for the tb to stop with the weird rev hangs.

i have tl shawd im, zdx tb, some runners Paul ported apparently, and tl shawd top plate.
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Old July 24th, 2015, 05:17 PM   #14
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Update:

Wanted to return and update this thread for anyone searching in the future. I solved my problem with a stock zdx TB. My other one was ported and a new throttle plate was cut to match.

Visually the opening of the plate in closed position of the untouched TB was way smaller than the bored TB. Almost looked like it was "stuck open" a little even in the closed position. Recalibration of the throttle plate with hds would probably have solved this issue. Regardless this TB will be up for sale to whoever is interested. Shoot me a pm.
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Old July 25th, 2015, 09:28 AM   #15
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Did MaxBore.com port your T/B as well as the new Throttle Plate?
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Old July 25th, 2015, 03:42 PM   #16
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I know this is nearly impossible to do but is there anyway you can post pictures of the pnp TB and the stock TB just to see how small of a difference in space there is between the inside wall and the tb plate. I just installed my zdx mani/TB and have massive rev hang around 1500-2000rpm. until I come to a complete stop then it drops to around 850. My TB is also semi pnp'd but doesnt look that much different than my stock j30. Im at a loss. And pissed
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Old July 25th, 2015, 04:51 PM   #17
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Unfortunately for me to hear this was the solution, I had a local machinist/tuner make a port on it and a new plate. It was not done by maxbore. While I wasn't the happiest with the finish left on that section of the TB, when in the fully closed position it is water tight.

As far as having issues at idle with a factory zdx tb, you're not going to be able to tune the tb opening visually(to the above post) and from the factory it should have darn close to the factory setting on it
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Old July 25th, 2015, 05:15 PM   #18
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get hondata and that should fix your rev hang.
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