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  • 2 Post By 07J30
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Old July 26th, 2015, 02:46 PM   #1
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superflow dyno super disapointing

had a dyno day with 20 other cars and did two pulls. with full bolt ons minus a UR pulley i made 235 hp and 203 tq. i am pretty bummed with the low numbers, i was hoping for 250. however the numbers for all of the other cars were coming in low as well. there was a new WRX barely cracked 200. he looked like someone **** in his cereal.

did some research on the superflow dyno and found they are "load" type dynos similar to mustang dynos, while dynojets are "inertia" type dynos. many people were reporting low numbers with the superflow dyno some even reporting lower than mustang dynos if the operator didnt set things up properly.

anyone have insight on superflow dynos?

graphs are below: the curves looked good and the car sounded beast, many people left when they saw my car going on then came back for the second pull after hearing it WOT. even had a guy ask me if it was supercharged

ignore the "wideband" im not running wideband.




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Old July 27th, 2015, 09:20 AM   #2
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If it reads anything like a Mustang Dyno you can easily add 20+whp, and 10+wtq. I dont think you have anything to worry about. Your power curve is nice and smooth. I would safely put your car on a Dynojet and estimate 250+whp and 212+whp.

Hit the track and you'll know exactly what is up
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Old July 27th, 2015, 09:57 AM   #3
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if all you care about is numbers than you might as well hook up a nitrous bottle and call it a day.
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Old July 27th, 2015, 10:12 AM   #4
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I realize dynos are just tuning tools...so it's really not a huge deal...I just wanted a good baseline after boltons but before tuning to compare to.

My bro is gona be getting a 9g 6-6 soon he is gona throw it on the same dyno fresh off the factory floor to see what he makes. Just to satisfy curiosity.
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Old July 27th, 2015, 11:39 AM   #5
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Putting down big numbers is not important. There is VERY few cars on the road that can put down a flat ass torque curve and make power all the way to peak RPM. That is whats important. This should be shown as an example of how a race engine should be tuned.
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Old July 27th, 2015, 01:46 PM   #6
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Your car looks pretty good no dips or slips on the graph. I have a bunch more done to my car and its only 253whp, 221 tq on a hub Dyno. So I wouldn't worry too much about the numbers
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Old July 27th, 2015, 03:15 PM   #7
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Load dynos are very disappointing when everyone's sig has inertia results saying 290 whatever.
To give you reference my stock 6-6 put down about 180 whp @ 6k rpm and yours is over 50 whp above that so nice numbers! Wish I had 50+ extra wheel ponies!
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Old July 27th, 2015, 06:21 PM   #8
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So I take it the port worked well? Never did the official full list of mods though.
As far as interpreting the numbers themselves i'm not going to comment since I would just be keyboard warrioring at that point, but I like the shape! Curious if the dip at the end was pedal lift, running out of injector, or something else though.
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Old July 27th, 2015, 06:29 PM   #9
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The afr held around 12 rite to the end...this isn't wideband so who knows how accurate that is. Prob not very. Can I run wideband with a stock ecu?

V2 intake,zdx TB, PnP 3.7 mani, PnP mani spacer .75", PnP runners, TB coolant bypass, p2r mani gasket( only one). Hfpc, rv6 v3, borla catback.

All port work done by oracle gasket matched...it went together great man after I got the TB issues worked out, fine work indeed!!!
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Old July 27th, 2015, 06:40 PM   #10
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stock is wideband. I been using hondata to tune it remotely through my tuner. I also have an AEM AFR on my j-pipe. If you need an ECU for hondata or a way to program the new ECU LMK. I have all the equipment, and I can build the harness also.
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Old July 28th, 2015, 10:13 AM   #11
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Don't be discouraged by the numbers...every dyno reads differently. I made 272/235 on a Dynojet prior to tune and 235/194 on a Mainline dyno with identical mods. Notice I took my dyno numbers out of my sig because they are confusing It would be nice to see what you made prior to the 3.7 IM/TB, but that's not always easy to do. I'm just glad you got everything running correctly.

Our cars sounds great and I'm not surprised more people came in after hearing it. I'm interested to see how your brother's 9G does on that same dyno. If I had to guess, I'd say he puts down ~225/208 bone stock
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Old July 28th, 2015, 11:37 AM   #12
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I met the OP at the dyno day (at Smokey's Dyno & Performance), and this is one (of a few) dynos that I have used many times in the past few years for both tuning and for public "dyno day" events. I have many sheets from this machine, and it always reads consistently. I spoke to the OP about the "K.Control" variable's dynamic value that is made visible within flashpro and how important it is to ensure that the value is at (0%) prior to a dyno run, otherwise timing will be pulled across the ENTIRE rpm range due to historesis in regards to what the engine is expecting based on factory RON (ectane content) testing. Hondata as well as my trusted tuner at Slowmotion Motorsports have emphasized its importance. If you don't have the luxury of owning a Flashpro to view the value, then it can be cleared by disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery for a few moments.

Here is a good read:

https://www.hondata.com/help/flashpr...rol_tables.htm

Here is a snippet:

"The ECU has the ability to retard the ignition further if it determines that knock is occurring. From the amount of knock sensor noise, and knock sensitivity, the ECU adjusts a 'knock control' ( or 'K.Control') variable. Nominally the 'knock control' contains the estimated fuel octane, as a percentage of the difference between 100 and 90 octane. eg a value of 0% means the ECU considers the fuel 100 octane or above, a value of 25% means the ECU considers the fuel to be 97.5 octane. The K.Control is dynamically adjusted at a fairly slow rate while driving.



If K.Control is greater than 0% and the maximum ignition timing is less than the MBT timing then the difference between the knock ignition limit and maximum ignition timing will show as a knock retard value.



Actual ignition timing used (green line) with a knock control of 50%:


( see image: knock-graph-2 )

The ignition timing calculation is:



Ignition advance = minimum(MBT Ignition, MBT Ignition + knock ignition limit - (knock retard x knock control))"
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Last edited by gerzand; July 28th, 2015 at 11:47 AM..
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Old July 28th, 2015, 06:26 PM   #13
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this is good info gerzand. it helps to see/read it a few times to understand, still above my head in knowledge but the basic principal makes sense. its good to have such a knowledgeable resource so close to home!
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