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Old October 18th, 2015, 11:48 AM   #1
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4" cai

I have been on a calibration for awhile and its been just bang on perfect (tuned by Dom). I saw lots of recommendations for a 4" intake if you have corresponding modifications, so I finally made a custom 4" and the first datalog that I sent to Dom, he responded saying I'm now running lean on WOT. So in other words, 4 inch intake definitely helps if you have opened up your air flow throughout.


Before I had the AEM V2 btw, which is basically a 3 inch intake caved by a 4 inch pipe to act as an amplifier for resonance is my guess....apparently it creates some super tornado vortex that delivers more air!!!! lol idk...straight 4 inch pipe is definitely superior.

Before: Wimpy 3" v2


After: Beefy 4" goodness
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Old October 18th, 2015, 12:29 PM   #2
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do you have a parts list?
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Old October 18th, 2015, 02:12 PM   #3
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do you have a parts list?
oh yeah sorry.

J32a3 block
J35a8 Heads(valve port n polish, rebuilt)
J37a2 Manifold (port matched to TB)
J37a4 TB
4" CAI
RV6 J Pipe
Modified Borla Exhaust
Underdrive Crank Pulley
Thermal Intake Mani Space
Torque Dampener
14.1 lb wheels

I wonder how much it would benefit if I put in Pre Cat Deletes...although I would hate to pollute excessively, which is why I havent put any in.
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Old October 18th, 2015, 06:01 PM   #4
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Nice! What parts made up the intake?
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Old October 18th, 2015, 07:59 PM   #5
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do you have a parts list?
Oh wait did you mean the 4" intake parts list?...ill list it below.

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Nice! What parts made up the intake?
There is a great site called Silicon Intakes here: Intercooler Pipe Fabrication

I had to modify some of the parts I bought, also used the AEM v2 bottom end as well since that is 4". You will have to measure out and hacksaw the piping of course to fit.

I built the bottom end first, then once I got the curve angled towards the TB correct, measured the missing diameter from the curved pipe to the TB and installed the correct size straight pipe. If your not using the v2 bottom end, then I would recommend a 30-45 degree bend pipe for the bottom end.

Parts list:
-Aluminum Pipe x1 1' 90 degree bend pipe
- Silicone Turbo Hoses x2 4" coupler
- Pipe Reducer x1 4" to 3.25" coupler (3.25" fits the TL AWD TB)
- Aluminum Pipe x1 1' straight pipe
- T Bolt Hose Clamp x4 4" clamps (or can just use cheaper worm clamps)
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Old October 18th, 2015, 08:03 PM   #6
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yeah i meant part list for the 4in CAI. sorry i wasn't specific. And what was the total price?
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Old October 18th, 2015, 09:02 PM   #7
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yeah i meant part list for the 4in CAI. sorry i wasn't specific. And what was the total price?
$71 I believe. Although if your not using the bottom end of a v2, add another $20. You can always short ram it as well which is much cheaper but, its nice having the colder air away from the engine
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Old October 18th, 2015, 09:06 PM   #8
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Here are the specifics starting from the TB.

Coupler, 5 inch straight pipe, coupler, modified 90 degree bend, coupler, bottom end AEM v2.
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Old October 18th, 2015, 09:53 PM   #9
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what filter did you put on the end of it? i might have to do this
how is the sound difference between the two?

also, have you done the virtual dyno before and after (even though i know conditions change)
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Old October 19th, 2015, 01:53 AM   #10
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what filter did you put on the end of it? i might have to do this
how is the sound difference between the two?

also, have you done the virtual dyno before and after (even though i know conditions change)
I used my old AEM filter. Idk I haven't had much time to focus on the sound change...

I'm not very familiar with virtual dyno, i tried it once with sonnicks diy thread but wasn't successful
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Old October 19th, 2015, 08:43 AM   #11
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You should dyno before pcds and after if you get some . want to make me a 4inch cold air? I'm in minmesota! My 4inch short ram needs to go.
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Old October 19th, 2015, 09:49 AM   #12
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You should dyno before pcds and after if you get some . want to make me a 4inch cold air? I'm in minmesota! My 4inch short ram needs to go.
Eh we will see, I hate how stinky a car can be without cats. Hmmmm I suppose we shall see :P, going to get very busy with things soon.
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Old October 19th, 2015, 10:36 AM   #13
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just drive really fast so you can't smell it
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Old October 19th, 2015, 11:22 AM   #14
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just drive really fast so you can't smell it
This lol
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Old October 19th, 2015, 11:35 AM   #15
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Eh we will see, I hate how stinky a car can be without cats. Hmmmm I suppose we shall see :P, going to get very busy with things soon.
go with hfpcs! i honestly don't see why people would want the smell and rasp for an extra 1-3 hp

but either way, pcds or hfpcs would be a big addition to your setup
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Old October 19th, 2015, 05:22 PM   #16
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Damn what wheels r u running that are that light? And beware there was a recent 9g hfpc failure. Pushed the magnaflow cat material out of the pipe causing immediate problems lol.

It was supposedly after multiple high speed (160mph) runs. Food for thought
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Old October 19th, 2015, 07:07 PM   #17
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go with hfpcs! i honestly don't see why people would want the smell and rasp for an extra 1-3 hp

but either way, pcds or hfpcs would be a big addition to your setup
hfpcs don't last as long.

Rasp isn't a big deal. That's what resonators are for. But the smell is variable depending upon the weather and how you drive. With windows open, I shift at 2.5K.
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Old October 19th, 2015, 08:00 PM   #18
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I like the smell of gas and diesel vehicles idk why other people dont. Im getting pcds and probably not going to get a resonator. just keep it under 3k for a good sound and if someone wants to flipping race just let it scream at them past 3k. Idk I will probably get one at some point. I will have pcds rv6 jpipe and 3inch/2.5Y to magnaflows. :P
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Old October 20th, 2015, 07:20 AM   #19
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Damn what wheels r u running that are that light? And beware there was a recent 9g hfpc failure. Pushed the magnaflow cat material out of the pipe causing immediate problems lol.

It was supposedly after multiple high speed (160mph) runs. Food for thought
Kosei K1 TS 17". They are listed at 14.6 but I weighed them at home each with consistency of 14.1-14.2lbs.
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Old October 20th, 2015, 07:51 AM   #20
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Wow I was wondering where rattling was coming from when I hit a bump in the road, turns out the rims are so light the road vibrations rattle them....
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Old October 20th, 2015, 08:20 AM   #21
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So are you going to get a dyno done after pcds ? And who put your j32 in. You yourself?
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Old October 21st, 2015, 08:05 AM   #22
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So are you going to get a dyno done after pcds ? And who put your j32 in. You yourself?
I built the engine but I was working at Honda at the time and had a master tech do it for me for cheap. Maybe after winter Ill look into precats.
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Old November 7th, 2015, 02:38 PM   #23
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I mentioned that to you on your youtube video, glad you jumped on it! I too have been very pleased with my 4" homemade intake. I think I spent a total of 60 bucks roundabout. Coming from an INJEN (that eventually broke at the lower bracket and created a huge gaping hole), the 4" was a definite noticeable improvement especially up top on my j30a4 which has j37mani/tb, xlr8 v2, and 2.5 straight pipe. I am currently running an open vstack which I know is very sketchy, but the sound is irresistable
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Old November 7th, 2015, 06:22 PM   #24
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I mentioned that to you on your youtube video, glad you jumped on it! I too have been very pleased with my 4" homemade intake. I think I spent a total of 60 bucks roundabout. Coming from an INJEN (that eventually broke at the lower bracket and created a huge gaping hole), the 4" was a definite noticeable improvement especially up top on my j30a4 which has j37mani/tb, xlr8 v2, and 2.5 straight pipe. I am currently running an open vstack which I know is very sketchy, but the sound is irresistable
Get some pantyhose on that *****! Shouldn't hamper sound, and will keep rocks and big dust/dirt out, which is really all that will damage your walls significantly. Sand that can get past a pantyhose filter will only wear your walls significantly after many many many miles, larger chunks can cause instant gouges(or worse) though, so get some protection to keep that sound going longer.
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Old November 9th, 2015, 06:58 PM   #25
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Get some pantyhose on that *****! Shouldn't hamper sound, and will keep rocks and big dust/dirt out, which is really all that will damage your walls significantly. Sand that can get past a pantyhose filter will only wear your walls significantly after many many many miles, larger chunks can cause instant gouges(or worse) though, so get some protection to keep that sound going longer.
yeah i finally got a filter for it I was just being lazy
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Old November 13th, 2015, 01:05 PM   #26
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Would a 4" CAI benefit a stock J30A5? Or should I just go with the AEM V2?
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Old November 13th, 2015, 04:18 PM   #27
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Would a 4" CAI benefit a stock J30A5? Or should I just go with the AEM V2?
The 4" is certainly better than stock, and much cheaper than the AEM v2 if custom built. And if you decide in the future to open up your air flow throughout, the intake is already taken care of. My vote is why not regarding the 4"
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Old November 13th, 2015, 10:22 PM   #28
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Where does one get the parts to make this? Home Depot? Ace Hardware? Enlighten me.
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Old November 14th, 2015, 02:19 AM   #29
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Where does one get the parts to make this? Home Depot? Ace Hardware? Enlighten me.
Post #5 in this thread is where I got my parts. You will have to do some measuring and a bit of hack sawing to make everything work. Maybe try 3.5" even if you wanted more room to work with? If you wanted to make it easy on yourself, instead of making a CAI, you could just short ram it, but CAI is worth the effort.
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Old November 15th, 2015, 01:44 PM   #30
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Agreed, anything worth doing, is worth doing right. Cold air is the only way I'd go, I don't like short rams.
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