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Old January 3rd, 2016, 01:50 PM   #1
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Oracle failed 3.2 build thread (Help!)

This will be edited into a build thread (finally) if this thing gets off the ground.
As of right now i've swapped out my old j30a4, and put a 122k j32a3 in which had impeccibly good compression and cleanliness, only to be met with massive serious error codes.

The codes that i'm getting (other than intermittent high voltage codes on MAP and VTEC) are:
U0155(lost communication with can bus off)
U0073(lost communication with instrument control panel)
U0121(lost communication with abs)

The engine kicks over and does run, but the transmission is unresponsive to the shifter other than PRND, no lights on dash from the shifter, and slippage along with limited throttle when attempting to move. Feels a lot like the limp mode that I had when I blew a transmission in a different accord, but much much more sluggish. Throttle only has partial response capabilites not opening to 100% whether driving or engine off.

I hope someone else had the fortune of having these codes and being able to fix them, because right now I'm retrying connectors and looking at manuals which all more or less say to either replace the ecu or look for the bad wire.

If we can get this fixed there will be plenty of throaty audio exhaust clips, silly amounts of audio modifications, plenty of very very shiny ported and polish polished parts, paint, and some other things nobody has done to these things before for aero, along with hideously functuional mnodifications if need be and maybe some tucking of wires and hoses. 50% of that is already on the car, and 35% of it is sitting in the garage waiting for this thing to be fully functional before use.
Help? On a scale of > I'm near
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Old January 3rd, 2016, 05:06 PM   #2
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R u running a j30 auto ecu? Or did you get the j32 ecu with the motor?
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Old January 3rd, 2016, 05:46 PM   #3
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Still on the j30, as I thought that was the way to do it.
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Old January 3rd, 2016, 06:08 PM   #4
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On another forum a guy had the same codes and he had the dealer replace his abs/tcs module and the codes went away.

Need some help in troubleshooting instructions - Page 2 - Drive Accord Honda Forums
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Old January 3rd, 2016, 06:20 PM   #5
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Did u forget to unplug a sensor. Or clipped some wires
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Old January 3rd, 2016, 11:10 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by rollaboy_95 View Post
On another forum a guy had the same codes and he had the dealer replace his abs/tcs module and the codes went away.

Need some help in troubleshooting instructions - Page 2 - Drive Accord Honda Forums
Helpful post^^^
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Did u forget to unplug a sensor. Or clipped some wires
Not helpful post^^^

More helpful posts appreciated.
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Old January 4th, 2016, 11:01 AM   #7
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A J32 ECU would be the way to run the J32. My buddy has his running on a J30 ECU with no issues. It's not right, but runs. I thought you had flash pro!
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Old January 4th, 2016, 11:18 AM   #8
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Old January 4th, 2016, 11:48 AM   #9
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I had my oem running my j35. everything was fine except got a code when i went over 2k rpms for running lean.

I think you missed something or hooked up or possibly flipped plugs somewhere?
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Old January 4th, 2016, 01:47 PM   #10
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A J32 ECU would be the way to run the J32. My buddy has his running on a J30 ECU with no issues. It's not right, but runs. I thought you had flash pro!
I have aem to take care of the engine, so no worries there. But yes, auto magic.
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I had my oem running my j35. everything was fine except got a code when i went over 2k rpms for running lean.

I think you missed something or hooked up or possibly flipped plugs somewhere?
Yeah...I keep thinking of that and not finding where it would happen.

Which terminal in the fuse box is positive and which is negative? That was the only point where I questioned what I was doing.

That and actually connecting the huge three connectors near thr drivers side bay.

Would using a j32a3 harness be any different? If it was an auto and not manual(ill have to check)



As an update, i've managed to pull more codes from the system, in addition to the U0121 U0073 and U0155 codes, I have B1168 (Gauge control module lost communication with ECM/PCM(engine messages) B1169(Gauge control Module lost communcation with PCM (A/T messages) and B1178 F-CAN communication circuit error.

Which is convincing me that there are 3 options of what went wrong.
1. A major connector is loose or improperly connected.
2. The gauge assembly is bad.
3. The ECM/PCM is bad.

Going to keep chasing wires after I adapt my voltmeter to fit in the little pin slots to allow actual testing.

Unfortunately I don't know which connector would take care of all this, that is also conveniently in the engine bay and not in the dash.

Last edited by oraclem19; January 4th, 2016 at 07:20 PM..
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Old January 5th, 2016, 04:17 AM   #11
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Can bus connects thru the A connector on the ECU (The grey one coming from the car chassis). I have to agree that something got "mis" or "not" connected or a blown fuse.

What did you "touch" when doing the swap?
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Old January 5th, 2016, 02:27 PM   #12
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Can bus connects thru the A connector on the ECU (The grey one coming from the car chassis). I have to agree that something got "mis" or "not" connected or a blown fuse.

What did you "touch" when doing the swap?
I followed the instructions from the honda service manual. The ABS connector ended up coming off as well.
The ABS module underwent some flexing while pulling the engine due to idle mind, so i'm hoping I didn't internally destroy something.

I went through and checked all the can high and low lines, connectivity between the radio connector, the gauge unit connector, the ABS connector, and the ECU connector, checked for shorts between them on all systems and verified that they were where they should have been and weren't where they shouldn't have been. I went through the gauge input procedure, the gauge self diagnostic check, test modes 1 and 2, checked engine bay ground locations, checked polarity in the fuse box, did some MIPS testing, and checked every single fuse in the driver kick panel and under hood panel for continuity.

The can lines are connected between the ABS unit, the gauge unit, the "dashboard" radio unit, and the ECU, the system runs, and yet the system is saying that it can not communicate with the instrument panel, can not communicate with the ABS unit, and can not communicate with the ECU, and that the F-Can system is down.

The only other steps in honda's troubleshooting guide to these is to "replace with known good xxxx unit"
I'm assuming the cheapest replacement is the best to start, and ordered another ECU. Will need to fix the bit about the immobilizer and all, unless I can find a way around it, to test 2/3 of the codes.

However, if there's something I missed, chime in about anything. I mean the whole harness came off, the steering connector, all the systems except ABS module, and everything was transplanted onto the j32a3 using the j30a4 harness. The grounds on the engine/frame were reconnected, and the grounds on the thermostat housing and lift hook were reconnected, although the car initially was ran with the thermostat housing ground connected to the top of the heater module in a lapse of judgement. This is my only logic other than sheer Murphian Law that something may have shot back to the ecu and done bad things to the inside of it.
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Old January 5th, 2016, 02:30 PM   #13
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Old January 5th, 2016, 09:43 PM   #14
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First thing I'd be looking for is a bad or missing ground. With that many electrical issues, sometimes the easiest solution is the one.

I did an engine swap into my '77 Cutlass, went from a 350 to a 455. Everything went smoothly other than having to use the exhaust manifolds from the 350 and using the 4 core radiator from the donor car (a Delta 88) got it all done in a day. Went to fire it up, nothing, nada, zilch. No lights, no cranking, nothing. Too late to do anything then, went into work (shift manager at a restaurant) and in the morning, I wanted to see if I could find the problem before getting some sleep. Poking around under the car, rechecking all the connections when I noticed a small wire near the starter, realized it went to the solenoid, connected it. Put the key in, the car fired up immediately. One stupid wire that I missed. Ugh.

Oh, and when swapping the shift solenoids on my Accord somehow the ground wire got disturbed, threw up a ton of codes. Once the ground wire issue was figured out, everything was back to normal.
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Old January 5th, 2016, 11:39 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottwax View Post
First thing I'd be looking for is a bad or missing ground. With that many electrical issues, sometimes the easiest solution is the one.

I did an engine swap into my '77 Cutlass, went from a 350 to a 455. Everything went smoothly other than having to use the exhaust manifolds from the 350 and using the 4 core radiator from the donor car (a Delta 88) got it all done in a day. Went to fire it up, nothing, nada, zilch. No lights, no cranking, nothing. Too late to do anything then, went into work (shift manager at a restaurant) and in the morning, I wanted to see if I could find the problem before getting some sleep. Poking around under the car, rechecking all the connections when I noticed a small wire near the starter, realized it went to the solenoid, connected it. Put the key in, the car fired up immediately. One stupid wire that I missed. Ugh.

Oh, and when swapping the shift solenoids on my Accord somehow the ground wire got disturbed, threw up a ton of codes. Once the ground wire issue was figured out, everything was back to normal.
Unfortunately most of the main grounds were troubleshat for in those myriad of tests that I listed, including looking at each system's individual ground and system harness ground for continuity with a randomly selected body ground or multiple. All were intended to test for 1v or under, I ended up with <10mv.

Although reconnecting the thermostat ground was "that one" for me. I just think cranking on it without the thermostat ground in place (which apparently grounds MOST of the engine block control components) Had damaged something by sending current where it wasn't supposed to ground through. Given the wires are all good, and knowing the ECM can be finnicky, seems logical.
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She's got shoes to run when the courage comes around. 245/50/16, about a 0.2% difference from the 205/55/16 stock size I had, on some currently stripped RX7 rims (very light weight!)
9" tread pattern should put a damper on any more 2nd and 3rd gear wheel spin.

Got a very odd package today... not sure who taught this guy how to package, but it sure is ingenuitive.
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These are by far the cleanest runners I have ever seen.
And the most average IM i've seen with that clean of runners.
Which apparently somebody did a little DIY gasket matching on before they got to me.
Difference? Runners saw a bit of w/m injection before shipping, the IM saw none of that.
Of course the first thing I have to do when I get a shiny new part is break it apart.
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Good solid 5 hours in and taking my time thanks to magnesium and proper disposal and storage progress, end result should be IM exits around 44.5mm (gasket is 44.65-75) and runner entries around 45mm at opening to a slight taper down to a base gasket match.
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Could have sworn I had a pic of the other half, but both are worked down to around 120 grit for most of their surfaces. Focusing on air path and whatever nooks and crannies I have time for before the ECU gets here. Should be a fine polish through and through.

Odd thing about all this trouble, is not once have I been able to get the on dash shifter lights to come on in function, but they did light up in self diagnosis mode.
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Last edited by oraclem19; January 6th, 2016 at 01:38 AM..
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Old January 6th, 2016, 10:28 AM   #16
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Damn, those are some wide tires. Currently running 215/55/16 on RSX wheels, don't think the wheel itself can run too much wider than that, maybe a 225/50/16 max.

Hope you get it sorted soon.
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Old January 7th, 2016, 11:54 AM   #17
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Damn, those are some wide tires. Currently running 215/55/16 on RSX wheels, don't think the wheel itself can run too much wider than that, maybe a 225/50/16 max.

Hope you get it sorted soon.
Was considering that dilemma myself as I have a set of those laying around too. 225 from some manufacturers can just barely fit on those.

These guys are 16x8, so I wasn't terribly worried about them falling off. IIRC the max size on 8 wide is 265 for some and 255 for most.

Thanks for the wishes though. Out of curiosity, which ground was it that got disturbed causing all these kinds of issues?

Engine may not have made progress, but I had massive drone, so I got an Ultra Quiet resonator put in on some clamps temporarily.
Then started carving out a plug to become a custom intake. This first one miiiiiiiiight not be pretty.

Does anyone know if TL runners actually are larger? The last two pair seem to be almost 1mm larger than stock 3.0 runners. I mean gasket is 44.70 +-0.1, and these guys are pretty close to that.

Anyway, more pictures. Just because the car won't move fast doesn't mean I can't fix everything else on it. I think finishing this first intake attempt, porting, and possibly trying to get some wood work done to get speakers mounted will be the schedule for today.

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Old January 7th, 2016, 12:13 PM   #18
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what on earth is that green thing
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Old January 7th, 2016, 01:10 PM   #19
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what on earth is that green thing
Should be a fiberglass intake soon enough if I can find my peel ply to vacuum bag it. Otherwise I might just have to do it without the bag.

Use florists foam to make the raw product, use gelcoat with some wax mixed in so it isn't too sticky, then you fiberglass over that. Dissolve the foam using some acetone or paint thinner, then peel away the gelcoat.

Lets me make funny shaped parts without making a complicated mold and using a bladder and inflating it and wasting a ton of fiberglass on mold making and gelcoating the mold.

Which I may end up doing anyway, depending on how well this goes. Got tired of using a tiny 3" filter directly on the intake.
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Old January 7th, 2016, 02:15 PM   #20
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Whale penis intake!!
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Old January 7th, 2016, 03:55 PM   #21
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looks like a gourd
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Old January 7th, 2016, 04:37 PM   #22
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Ended up being more of a cornucopia shape. The actual ID of the TB part is a bit small, so this will be a temp until I decide on whether or not I want to make one that takes longer than an hour or two or if I want to go whale penis CAI.

Luckily losses/gains from TB size are pretty small even when going from stock to ZDX which is like a 5mm gain. I'm hoping ill be within 1mm of 67, but it might not happen.

Either way, i figured out how to work with the material and hopefully by tonight will have found a way to make a custom shaped fiberglass intake for <100.

Filter is 4.5" :=)
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Old January 8th, 2016, 12:17 PM   #23
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I think I sold that IM. DTB life Still a thanks to Paul!!

245's should be nice. It was for sure a step up for me. I'm going back down to a 235-45, simply due to tire rub. I already have a cave in on the rear panel for pulling the fenders too much. It will be popped out with a paint job.
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Old January 8th, 2016, 05:08 PM   #24
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I think I sold that IM. DTB life Still a thanks to Paul!!

245's should be nice. It was for sure a step up for me. I'm going back down to a 235-45, simply due to tire rub. I already have a cave in on the rear panel for pulling the fenders too much. It will be popped out with a paint job.
how do you mean pulling it too much?

Also what springs do you have? I'm on supercup springs. I think the race package... but ill have to check.

sport ratings: 1.5F/1.0R 320lb/235lb
race ratings: 2.25F/1.75R 420lb/300lb

I also have that tls bar back there to keep everything in line.
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Old January 10th, 2016, 10:53 AM   #25
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you guys thought I went afk? Nonsense, I just was too tired to post pictures, and was definitely sick one day.

Anyway, the plan worked damn well, give or take a bit since I did all this in 40* weather which isnt nice to resin.

Also got the bores on the manifolds taken care of, currently on the last pre polish stage for the lower half, upper needs some more love, but hopefully by end of day i'll be able to close up the manifold.

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Old January 11th, 2016, 07:33 AM   #26
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ECU should be in today. Until then

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Old January 21st, 2016, 09:58 PM   #27
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shiny!
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Old January 22nd, 2016, 07:44 AM   #28
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how do you mean pulling it too much?

Also what springs do you have? I'm on supercup springs. I think the race package... but ill have to check.

sport ratings: 1.5F/1.0R 320lb/235lb
race ratings: 2.25F/1.75R 420lb/300lb

I also have that tls bar back there to keep everything in line.
My car is pretty low. I'm also on 17x9 +35 wheels, along with the 245's. Fenders had to be rolled and pulled. One rear quarter got heated and pulled a little too much. Someone then leaned on the car and caved it in. I've used suctions and other method to bang it out but it just goes right back in.

I also have the TL-s rear. I'm on JSK coilovers, I don't know anyone else who runs them. I did a bunch of test fitting for them and basically got the things for free. There 15 or 20 way adjustable, stiff springs (forgot the actual K). Let just say at 154mph I didn't even blink. Car was solid as a rock. I have an extra rear set that sit to high if you know anyone. They would just need a little cut of the tube and welded.
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Old February 5th, 2016, 11:47 AM   #29
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So Honda has officially said they can't diagnose the problem without hour by hour work, which would make this an incredibly expensive repair.
He did however notice that the torque converter shift solenoid was severely damaged (I may have had a crane fail and drop the engine).

After replacing that, the car now drives perfect! Functionally. Shifts are smooth but crisp (all redline) and it goes through the rpm and speed range(tested to 80) and drives perfectly fine.

I still have a U0121 code after replacing the ABS and ECU units though, so the only remaining component is either an improperly installed ABS (still haven't bled the brakes in the rear) causing the ABS neutral pressure sensor to reset, a bad gauge cluster (probably), or the fact that the brake switch and e-brake switch indicators are not operating correctly.

If I could get some assistance to how to repair the e-brake indicator not switching and how to repair the brake switch indicator not switching (lights work, but HDS says that the brakes are always off) that would be great. Some people have solved some weird problems with this being repaired.
Considering the car only has a single DTC code (U0121) i'm happy with the progress of replacing the ABS unit. The car now needs the wideband reconnected, and the AEM unit, so that I can get dom to give it a street tune, since last I looked the AFR was a bit higher than I like it.

Still open to suggestions
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Old February 5th, 2016, 12:30 PM   #30
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I have one send back my fly100. Lol

well glad your car isn't 100% screwed up.
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