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Old January 30th, 2016, 09:21 PM   #1
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Bisimoto cams kms springs and retainers

The plan is to get Bisimoto stage 2 cams and KMS steel retainers and springs for my j35. Since I am going to be doing this I plan on doing timing belt and water pump as well. For the heads I was thinking since new cams are going in to put new cam seals and new valve seals in. I dont plan on doing anything with the valves. They are going to stay oem. Anything else you think I should have replaced while it will be apart. Take into consideration the engine only has 60k on it.
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Old January 30th, 2016, 09:26 PM   #2
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valve adjustment?
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Old January 30th, 2016, 09:51 PM   #3
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Please please before and after dyno on just the cams. For ****s sake I'll help pay.
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Old January 30th, 2016, 09:52 PM   #4
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that would mean I would need a dyno tune before and after as well.
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Old January 30th, 2016, 10:04 PM   #5
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So here is what I am thinking.

24 valve spring seats

24 valve stem seals

2 front camshaft seals

2 rear camshaft o ring seals

valve cover gasket

valve adjustment.

This should have everything covered correct? Please let me know if you think these parts are necessary to put in as new.
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Old January 30th, 2016, 10:09 PM   #6
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change out the spark plug seals and the valve cover seals if you have not already.
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Old January 31st, 2016, 04:32 AM   #7
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Have you researched the reliability of them? Since they are regrinds
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Old January 31st, 2016, 07:46 AM   #8
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Have you researched the reliability of them? Since they are regrinds
GERZAND ran them for quite some time and never had any issues
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Old January 31st, 2016, 08:55 AM   #9
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I disagree on the "no need to do valves" statement.

Put in some oversize Exhaust valves. With that big cam, personally, I would do the exhaust valves.

Bigger tubing come off the heads exhaust port or from RichieV6 pre-cat would help too. but yeah -- $$$
However, the tuning would also benefit from all those modifications.

If there are bearings in the cam journals, I would do those also. You are already in the head so my opinion is, labor wise, replace the bearings for that Big cam.



I know that money comes into play also. Sometimes certain mods are borderline-worth the money at the time, per sey`. Was not sure if you are trying to stay with a "budget build", or just test the gains from this "step".



big cams might wear out the retainers prematurely since the "centerline(?)" is changed for the bigger lobe.. The valve train should be inspected and tolerances checked often in the beginning. I thought I read some people had issues with the titanium retainers failing at one point -- I just cannot remember the engine model though, sorry. Using Steel retainers was thought to be the solution.


...curious with the gains though.
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Old January 31st, 2016, 10:07 AM   #10
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Would love to see what the TB Motorworx Pro/strip/street cams can do...if they werent so damn expensive....$2000
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Old January 31st, 2016, 10:28 AM   #11
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^ cost more than my turbo kit, and your mp90. lol
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Old January 31st, 2016, 10:35 AM   #12
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I plan on using steel valve springs and steel retainers through KMS. They do not make them but they said they could run them in steel for me and that is what I plan on doing. They said the steel retainers and steel springs with stock internals i could do 8500 RPM. However I dont plan on going that high.

The valves will have to come later. I do not have the funds for that. I can do normal bolt ons and timing belt myself but I do not trust myself doing any tearing of the head apart myself. So $110 dollar an hour labor charge comes into play.

I am sure I will be happy with the gains the cams, valve springs and retainers will do for me. I am already happy with the performance I gained from just putting the J35 swap in.

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I disagree on the "no need to do valves" statement.

Put in some oversize Exhaust valves. With that big cam, personally, I would do the exhaust valves.

Bigger tubing come off the heads exhaust port or from RichieV6 pre-cat would help too. but yeah -- $$$
However, the tuning would also benefit from all those modifications.

If there are bearings in the cam journals, I would do those also. You are already in the head so my opinion is, labor wise, replace the bearings for that Big cam.



I know that money comes into play also. Sometimes certain mods are borderline-worth the money at the time, per sey`. Was not sure if you are trying to stay with a "budget build", or just test the gains from this "step".



big cams might wear out the retainers prematurely since the "centerline(?)" is changed for the bigger lobe.. The valve train should be inspected and tolerances checked often in the beginning. I thought I read some people had issues with the titanium retainers failing at one point -- I just cannot remember the engine model though, sorry. Using Steel retainers was thought to be the solution.


...curious with the gains though.
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Old January 31st, 2016, 10:38 AM   #13
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If I remember correctly no one actually makes cams for our cars. They are all regrinds.

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Have you researched the reliability of them? Since they are regrinds
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Old January 31st, 2016, 10:46 AM   #14
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Can someone tell me if there are bearings in the cam journals? Its either we dont have any or I am having a hard time finding them.
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Old January 31st, 2016, 11:04 AM   #15
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its not separate
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Old January 31st, 2016, 02:29 PM   #16
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that would mean I would need a dyno tune before and after as well.
not neccessarily. You can just run stock tune both times and see the raw rough gains.
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Can someone tell me if there are bearings in the cam journals? Its either we dont have any or I am having a hard time finding them.
The cam journals are metal/metal. If you want to maximize that I would send them off to get micropolished by a professional. This is something that isn't new to them but makes things much smoother.

I agree on oversized valves if machining the head is in the budget, I would also recommend cutting the valve stems. It's about a good square cm of extra air, about 1/9 of our total port size.
Some old school hot rod shops will do this, some new school import shops will do this.

Also I know you were messaging me a while back about some polish work and I said I was backed up with the Pa1ntball3r build, but i'm free now if you need anything done since it seems like as per your M.O. you're not holding back on this.
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Old February 1st, 2016, 10:41 AM   #17
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I plan on bringing it to an import shop here that does tuning and dyno as well for the engine work I want done. I will see if he will give me a deal on a dyno before install and a dyno tune after break in of cams.


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Please please before and after dyno on just the cams. For ****s sake I'll help pay.
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Old February 1st, 2016, 04:39 PM   #18
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Skip the tuning. Base map will work. Tuning would be awesome but is $$$ as pointed out.
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Old February 1st, 2016, 05:51 PM   #19
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I have been working with dom but stopped because I was having problems with my car. But hopefully this thisaznboi88 got my problem all figured out. Seems to me that it has but I wont know for sure until I am able to drive the car. That wont happen until Juneish.

With that being said Nothing will be done with my car or the cams until then as well.

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Skip the tuning. Base map will work. Tuning would be awesome but is $$$ as pointed out.
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Old February 1st, 2016, 08:20 PM   #20
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Will anyone else chip in on a before and after on regrinds? I'll start discussing donation amounts if anyone if with me.
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Old February 1st, 2016, 08:27 PM   #21
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I might be able to get by not having any help. I do know a guy that opened a shop and last year they let people do 4 pulls for $80 or some **** like that. Hopefully they will do that again this year and I will ask him if he will let me split up the pulls. LOL. See if I can do 2 pulls before and 2 after.
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Old February 4th, 2016, 09:17 AM   #22
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I wouldn't get larger valves, but back cut/valve job would work. If you don't want to do that then just lapp them
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Old February 4th, 2016, 01:24 PM   #23
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I don't plan on it. For the gains vs money spent for those gains isn't worth it to me.

As far as the rest if the shop I have do the work can do either of those things I will have them do them.

I just hope my car runs correctly. If my car is still fd up I won't be doing this. I won't know until spring time and I can actually drive it. So far it starting it and giving it gas in the garage it seems fixed though.

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I wouldn't get larger valves, but back cut/valve job would work. If you don't want to do that then just lapp them
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Old February 4th, 2016, 04:12 PM   #24
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Good luck man you have a nice project build going.
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Old February 4th, 2016, 04:45 PM   #25
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Thanks man... I really hope it is fixed. Spent way too much time and money on "guessing" what it could be because no one knew or had a clue that what we hopefully found out what fixed it could have been the problem. I honestly thought the ECU was fried. That was the last thing I thought it could be but then that wasnt even what it was.


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Good luck man you have a nice project build going.
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Old February 4th, 2016, 08:00 PM   #26
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I don't plan on it. For the gains vs money spent for those gains isn't worth it to me.

As far as the rest if the shop I have do the work can do either of those things I will have them do them.

I just hope my car runs correctly. If my car is still fd up I won't be doing this. I won't know until spring time and I can actually drive it. So far it starting it and giving it gas in the garage it seems fixed though.
you'd be surprised how much power you can unlock with a performance valve job in the right hands. Probably get more power per dollar than any of bisi's cam profiles.

BTW, if you really want cams, the camshafts and profiles bisi uses are web. You'l probably save some money going direct.
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Old February 4th, 2016, 10:52 PM   #27
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you'd be surprised how much power you can unlock with a performance valve job in the right hands. Probably get more power per dollar than any of bisi's cam profiles.

BTW, if you really want cams, the camshafts and profiles bisi uses are web. You'l probably save some money going direct.
I think we have had problems getting web to talk to us directly though.
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Old February 5th, 2016, 07:00 PM   #28
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Going insane here. Why do all the local import shops think they have to take the heads off to do what I want done??? WTF...
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Old February 5th, 2016, 07:02 PM   #29
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probably because there no room to get the rear out. Just gotta play tetris.
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Old February 5th, 2016, 08:15 PM   #30
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Going insane here. Why do all the local import shops think they have to take the heads off to do what I want done??? WTF...
Which part of this do they need the heads off for?
I'm assuming you're not talking about the valve replacement because... well yeah.
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