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Old May 20th, 2018, 07:12 PM   #1
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Upgrade sedan front rotors to coupe?

So I ordered a brake job in a box for our '07 6-6 sedan but somehow received the coupe version that included the larger & thicker rotors. The kit included 4 drilled & slotted rotors and ceramic pads. The new front rotors are too big to fit inside the narrower sedan calipers, mounting bracket is too short, and the splash guard touches the rotor. The front pads are interchangeable and everything else is exactly the same.
I REALLY like the larger and much more substantial coupe rotor which should be much better at resisting warping. The calipers are exactly the same except for the difference in rotor thickness. My choices are just get the sedan rotors, use coupe rotors, calipers and brackets. Also if I use the coupe parts do I also buy the correct splash guards or just delete them.
Coupe calipers w/ correct brackets (rebuilt) $100. plus ship
Coupe splash guards (new) $80.
Worth it? Splash guards?
Who's done this?
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Old May 21st, 2018, 08:32 AM   #2
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I literally just did an 06 6-6 sedan front brake upgrade yesterday

You have 3 options:

1. You can return the 6 speed coupe rotors and buy regular sedan rotors.

2. You can buy 6 speed coupe calipers and brackets to go with your rotors and pads.

3. You can buy 1994-1995 Acura Legend GS duel piston calipers and 6 speed coupe brackets (legend caliper brackets will not work with 6 speed coupe rotors). This is an OEM upgrade many people have done, and I actually went this route yesterday when I upgraded my OEM brakes. The duel piston calipers are better than the stock 6 speed coupe calipers - the duel pistons put more even pressure on the pad, helping stopping distance and mitigating warping. The only issue is that you will have to buy Legend GS pads to go with the calipers, should you go this route.
If you want the Legend GS calipers, I ordered mine from partsgeek.com. Rockauto also has them. The Legend GS pads were used in other vehicles so there are still plenty of options (so you don't have to hope that companies keep making pads for a 23 yr old car). I used Wagner thermoquiets.

Personally, I'd go with either option 2 or 3. 6-6 sedan OEM brakes are woefully inadequate and warp almost instantly under hard braking. If you upgrade to high quality aftermarket rotors and pads the warping issue is somewhat mitigated, but the overall braking performance still sucks compared to Honda's competitors from the same time period (infinity G35, Mazda 6s, Nissan Altima/Maxima), any BMW). If you keep your bigger rotors you'll see approx. 15% braking performance improvement over stock and much less chance of warpage since the 6 speed coupe rotors are quite a bit thicker, and even better performance if you bump to the legend GS calipers.

Oh and I kept my stock splash guards. I got 2 hammers and hit the top and bottom of the splash guard simultaneously until it bent away from the rotors so there was no more rubbing. If you just use one hammer and alternately hit the top and bottom, the splash guard will just move and won't bend. I suppose you could also break out a grinder or sawzall and cut the splash guard, but then you increase the chance that debris will collect on the inside of your rotor and mess up the rotor.
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Old May 28th, 2018, 01:29 PM   #3
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I decided against using the Legend GS 2-piston calipers because they have the same clamping power as the single piston coupe caliper, are getting scarce and expensive, and would be rebuilt at best. Found brand new (not-reman) Raybestos coupe calipers w/brackets at rockauto.com with the total cost of $122.17 for everything and no cores to return.
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Old June 2nd, 2018, 03:45 PM   #4
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A recap: I purchased a PowerStop K2297 performance brake kit from Amazon which included all 4 drilled & slotted rotors and Evolution Sport carbon fiber & ceramic pads for our '07 6-6 sedan. It turned out that this was the kit for a coupe and included the larger 11.8" coupe front rotors. Last weekend I went ahead and installed the rear rotors and pads and ordered new coupe front calipers from rockauto.com and I just installed the front brakes today. The all new Raybestos plated calipers and brackets fit perfectly and look really nice mounted on the plated rotors. The splash guards were easily bent back by lightly prying with a brake adjusting spoon between the guard and the new rotor. I still need to bleed the brakes when my "gone shopping" wife returns and then break them in but so far I'm really pleased with this selection. Tomorrow we will have a 100+ mile drive and I will report how they actually feel & work.
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Old June 4th, 2018, 12:00 AM   #5
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Well after bleeding and breaking-in the brakes yesterday, we put about 130 miles on the car today. The brakes seem to be as perfect as any new car I've ever driven, no pulsation, well balanced front to rear, and easy to control. There was too much traffic today to consider a high speed max braking test but doing the break-in procedure yesterday proved that even when very hot the brakes are fully capable of stopping very quickly.
I do recommend the PowerStop K2297 brake kit ($220.70 Amazon) & Raybestos coupe calipers ($122.17 Rockauto.com) for any 7th Gen V6 sedan, especially if you need to do a brake job anyway.
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Old June 4th, 2018, 08:22 AM   #6
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Solid, glad that the bigger brakes are working out for you. I know that for me the bigger brake upgrade is the best $$ I'll ever spend on the car. Kind of makes me mad that Honda didn't outfit the 6-6 sedan with the coupe brakes from the factory, since they are a direct bolt-up.

Out of curiosity, is your intake resonator still on your car? That's another difference between the 6-6 coupe and sedan; the 6-6 coupe came with basically a straight pipe resonator off of the stock airbox, while the 6-6 sedan comes with a full box resonator off of the stock airbox. Removing the resonator is, IMO, the other must-have DIY you can perform on one of our cars. I have seen a 2mpg increase and remarkably increased throttle response after taking out the intake resonator on my car.
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Old June 5th, 2018, 08:20 PM   #7
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You will never be able to convince me that any changes upstream of the throttle plate will make any difference when operating in a part throttle condition. At full throttle any restriction will reduce potential power but under part throttle & light loads nothing upstream of the throttle body will make any difference on MPG other than air temperature.
If you want better MPG the fun part would be to do the RV6 pre-cat delete, use at least 89 octane, and keep the junk out of the trunk. The less fun part would include more pressure in your tires, accelerate moderately, short shift, minimize breaking, and keep it under 70 when under power. As I understand it these engines use zero fuel when coasting in gear at over 1,000rpm so to put it into neutral while coasting will actually use more fuel to maintain the idle, PS, charging, & A/C.
Other than the brakes our '07 is still stock and I get 26-27 MPG and my wife gets 23-25 MPG. I drive faster than her but generally accelerate slower, short shift, and use way less brakes than she does. I have the RV6 PCD's but am waiting to install them as part of a full custom exhaust. With that installed I will be looking for some 30MPG tanks.
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Old June 6th, 2018, 09:03 AM   #8
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under part throttle & light loads nothing upstream of the throttle body will make any difference on MPG other than air temperature.

Agreed, and that's exactly why removing the intake resonator gets you better MPG. The stock intake resonator pulls hot air from above the radiator, and in addition the already warm air has to travel through a very long pipe that gets heat-soaked. Remove it and air is drawn mostly from your fender well (much colder) and has much less piping to move through.

I'll never put a CAI on my car; they're noisy, I'd always be worried about hydrolock and they don't make that much power in the Accord. SRI's do nothing but make noise. But for free, why not remove the intake resonator?
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Old June 7th, 2018, 12:08 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by #1Gaza View Post
the 6-6 coupe came with basically a straight pipe resonator off of the stock airbox, while the 6-6 sedan comes with a full box resonator off of the stock airbox.
This is false. My 6-6 coupe came with a full box resonator. But maybe the 03-05 coupes came with this straight pipe resonator you're talking about.

Also, from what I know, an air intake that draws in hotter air will actually give you better mpg than one that draws in colder air. There's mpg junkies that actually run "warm air intakes" on purpose to increase their fuel economy. Something about warmer air being less dense making it easier for your engine to use it... I'm not exactly sure how it works. But it is a thing.
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Old June 7th, 2018, 07:10 AM   #10
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This is false. My 6-6 coupe came with a full box resonator. But maybe the 03-05 coupes came with this straight pipe resonator you're talking about.

No kidding. Must be a 7 vs 7.5 gen thing. There's a DIY thread with pictures somewhere of a guy with a 6-6 coupe removing his resonator, and it's just a long tube, no big box in the middle.

IDK about warm air getting better mpg. Less dense air = less efficient combustion. CAI's typically see a 1-2 mpg increase vs the stock airbox.
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