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Old June 5th, 2019, 05:22 PM   #1
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#1Gaza's '06 6MT sedan build thread

Welp, I made a build thread on Acurazine, partly to get my post count up there so I can PM people in the classifieds, but also because it gets more traffic these days. But since V6P has taught me so much about my car, I figured I may as well make a thread here too.

To recap where I'm at currently, I bought the car in Feb 2018 as a DD/family car that's also fun to drive, reliable, 4 doors, good gas mileage, can run on regular fuel - basically all the things that make the Accord 6MT Sedan a great car. But some notable weak points soon showed themselves, mostly a really crappy feeling clutch, brakes that barely stopped the car, and a sloppy and understeery chassis. Also, the transmission popped out of first gear anytime I let off the gas, and I got an occasional 3rd gear popout. So, I started researching, and the mods started to follow.

Current mods:

Full front brake upgrade with Legend GS calipers / Accord coupe rotors and brackets, hi-carbon rotors, and Wagner Thermoquiet pads front and rear.

New slave cylinder with check valve delete

GM Synchromesh transmission fluid

19mm RSB from an '03 Acura TL-S and new endlinks.

Intake resonator delete

polished intake manifold

RV6 precat deletes

I've also done a bunch of maintenance work. Time-sert repair in cylinder 5 after a spark plug blowout, new spark plugs and the cylinder 5 coil pack, full timing belt kit with water pump, tensioner and pulleys, valve adjustment, replaced a bent rim with an '02 TL-S junkyard rim, and replaced all 4 tires. The previous owner appears not to have done any maintenance work to speak of other than oil changes.

So: after all this, I have recently hatched some pretty big plans for the car.

In the next month or so, I'm going to fully port the throttle body, intake manifold and runners.

Then, I'm going to start buying parts for the real big plans. The thought right now is to buy a junkyard 04-06 Acura TL 3.2 engine and do a full rebuild with new bearings and rings and send the crank and block out to a machine shop for honing and a clearance check. Then I'd like to get some RL heads because of the stiffer springs and better cams and do a bit of porting to them. Then I'll get a TL ECU, a new clutch and flywheel, and throw it all in the car. The hope is that I'll end up with a basically brand new engine good for another 150k miles at the least, along with the increased performance from displacement.

I'm trying to do all this on a real tight budget. Expensive upgrades like the 3.7 throttle body/intake manifold and Hondata are probably not in the cards. I'm really just looking for the reliability aspect with a bit of a power bump as a bonus. I'd LOVE to do a 3.5 or 3.6 stroker build if there was some way to run it without tuning, but from what I've read any sort of big build like that needs a tune to run properly. A tune = Hondata. Hondata = $1500. Plus a new crank and rods will run me at least $800 more than what I'm currently planning (hoping to reuse the crank, pistons and rods from the stock TL).
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Old June 8th, 2019, 05:30 PM   #2
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Pics?
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Old June 8th, 2019, 07:03 PM   #3
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Pics?
. Lol the guys on acurazine want pics too. Idk what pics are gonna do for ya, it’s a 100% stock looking ‘06 accord 6 speed sedan, carbon bronze pearl with tan leather interior. Not lowered and on stock rims. Good shape but zero obvious mods unless I crack the hood, at which point the only difference from a stock engine is the missing intake resonator and precat deletes. I’ll take some pics when the TL engine project gets up and going.
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Old August 8th, 2019, 01:35 PM   #4
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Quick update:
I got promoted at work and I’m getting a new F150 as a work truck and daily driver. I am going to keep the Accord as a fun project car. I have some thoughts about autocross and focusing more on dropping weight and improving handling, but I want to do a motor build too. This will be a multi year project in all likelihood so maybe both! Budget is still tight, but Hondata isn’t totally out of the question. A 3.5 or 3.6 build does sound so tempting.
At any rate nothing is going to happen real soon, August in SC is like living in an oven and work is rather busy, and my 4th child is coming in September. Probably won’t make much headway on the car until later September/October.
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Old August 11th, 2019, 12:07 PM   #5
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Quick update:
I got promoted at work and Iím getting a new F150 as a work truck and daily driver. I am going to keep the Accord as a fun project car. I have some thoughts about autocross and focusing more on dropping weight and improving handling, but I want to do a motor build too. This will be a multi year project in all likelihood so maybe both! Budget is still tight, but Hondata isnít totally out of the question. A 3.5 or 3.6 build does sound so tempting.
At any rate nothing is going to happen real soon, August in SC is like living in an oven and work is rather busy, and my 4th child is coming in September. Probably wonít make much headway on the car until later September/October.
maybe consider replacing the accord with more autocorss/race appropriate frame, such as light weight RWD/AWD.
Very front heavy FWD with lack of chassis/frame stiffness will be very hard to overcome even with lots of money into it.
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Old August 19th, 2019, 04:05 PM   #6
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Actually, running a chassis that is different than anything anyone else is running is appealing to me. I like to be different. The other option is buying my buddy's '91 toyota mr2 project car. But I'd sell the Accord to do that, and well, I love the Accord. Long-term I'm unsure what direction I'll go. But for now I own the Accord.

What I have done in the last week is put the Accord on a weight loss program. I started by removing the spare tire, jack and tools. Then I removed the floor mats and did a full clean-out of the cabin - yanked all my junk, emptied the cubbies, cleaned under the seats, etc.

I then removed the subframe damper, the damper that is bolted to the bottom of the trunk lid, some sound deadening that is behind the trunk liner on the sides of the trunk, and the trunk floor mat which is actually a piece of wood with carpet on one side and foam on the other.

All together I was able to remove 65 lbs off of the factory curb weight of the car, not counting all of my own crap I removed from the cabin (approx 80 lbs of junk I was driving with).

It makes a remarkable difference. Acceleration, handling, and braking are all quite improved. I wouldn't think removing 145lbs would make that much of a difference but it sure as hell does.

Now my goal is to make the front end lighter. The car feels nose heavy after pulling all the weight out of the trunk without removing anything from the engine bay. If I can figure out a way to cheaply DIY a battery relocation, I think that would really help the cause. Lighter battery is certainly going in at the least. I also want to get an Accord hybrid hood (thin aluminum, lighter than carbon fiber) and replace the front bumper crash beam with a piece of aluminum I think I can fabricate from a used aluminum cage I have at work.

Once I do all that I'll decide whether its worth the effort to replace all the suspension bushings and joints (which are all in various stages of needing replacement) and rework the suspension with some kind of coilover setup and camber for autocross work. Then I'll move on to the 3.5 build.
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Old October 2nd, 2019, 08:03 AM   #7
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So I decided to go in a little different direction with the Accord. I pulled the front head off the engine and found scoring all along the cylinder walls of cylinder 5, and the piston has marks all over it as well, like something was in there. Probably something to do with the spark plug blowout I had in that cylinder 30k miles ago.

Long story short, I bought a full Acura TL j32a3 with the TL 6 speed, which includes the LSD. A bunch of extra parts came with the swap too (full wiring harness, key and ignition, shifter cables, shifter box, clutch pedal assembly, master cylinder and slave cylinder). So I actually have all the parts I need to turn an automatic accord into a manual. I’ll probably sell all that once the swap is finished.

I also ported the throttle body, cut the plenums off the intake manifold and ported that, and ported the intake runners. I also fabbed my own EGR bypass. All those will be going on the swapped engine once it’s up and running.

No 3.5 build for now, but the TL block with LSD transmission is a good starting point for a future full bottom end build. For now I’ll just be running the j32.
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Old October 7th, 2019, 03:37 PM   #8
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do u do all the porting yourself? or do u send it to a shop, how much u pay?
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Old October 8th, 2019, 03:29 PM   #9
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I did all the porting myself. I watched a bunch of YouTube videos and then just went pretty easy on all the porting... really I mostly just polished and gasket matched the intake manifold and runners. There was so much gunk and the finish was so rough that just polishing opened everything up 1-2mm.
The only thing I really opened up was the throttle body and the intake manifold neck that the throttle body bolts to.
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Old November 21st, 2019, 07:24 PM   #10
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Well, I officially have a running, driving j32a3 swapped Accord with the TL LSD transmission. Unbelievably, after the swap and hooking everything up, it started up on the first try. A junkyard axle later and I have driven it nearly 200 miles so far.

I love it. The LSD tranny is a huge difference maker, and the additional power is quite nice as well.
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Old November 22nd, 2019, 05:40 PM   #11
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Nice! Glad you finally got it running. LSD really help these cars in the corners.
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Old November 29th, 2019, 05:51 PM   #12
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. Lol the guys on acurazine want pics too. Idk what pics are gonna do for ya, itís a 100% stock looking Ď06 accord 6 speed sedan, carbon bronze pearl with tan leather interior. Not lowered and on stock rims. Good shape but zero obvious mods unless I crack the hood, at which point the only difference from a stock engine is the missing intake resonator and precat deletes. Iíll take some pics when the TL engine project gets up and going.
Was hoping for pics of the engine installed.

If I keep mine long enough to need an engine probably going the 3.5 Odyssey route since I have an automatic and the added torque would really help.
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Old December 5th, 2019, 07:22 PM   #13
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Sick swap man. I don’t know why these cars didn’t come with LSD from the factory. Lord knows we could use it. Curious, are you running this setup on the stock j30 ecu, or did your parts list include a J32 ecu as well? I’ve heard mixed things about the stock ecu on a 3.2, some say it can lean out and others seem to say it runs strong. I was thinking about attempting the swap in my 03 coupe, but don’t feel like going through the hassle of getting my ecu programmed to my keys and whatnot. Would be great to hear that a tow to the dealership would be avoidable.
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Old December 11th, 2019, 08:08 AM   #14
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Sick swap man. I don’t know why these cars didn’t come with LSD from the factory. Lord knows we could use it. Curious, are you running this setup on the stock j30 ecu, or did your parts list include a J32 ecu as well? I’ve heard mixed things about the stock ecu on a 3.2, some say it can lean out and others seem to say it runs strong. I was thinking about attempting the swap in my 03 coupe, but don’t feel like going through the hassle of getting my ecu programmed to my keys and whatnot. Would be great to hear that a tow to the dealership would be avoidable.
Right now I’m running it on the stock J30 ecu. It doesn’t seem to have any issues, but I do have a CEL that I haven’t gotten read yet. Car runs great though. I have heard the same mixed reviews about running the j32 swap on the stock ecu so I figured I’d try it on the stock ECU first. I don’t really see any need to switch right now.
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Old December 11th, 2019, 08:13 AM   #15
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I made a few more improvements since i finished the swap. I cut a piece of 3.5” pipe to replace my stock intake flex pipe. Still running the stock airbox but the flex pipe is actually the biggest restriction there.

I also installed a Mazda Miata plastic front crash beam in place of the stock steel one. It took a bit of modifying, but I saved 8.5 lbs off the very front of the car.

Yesterday I went to a pick n pull junkyard with an ‘05 Acura RL on the lot. I pulled the cams from the engine, and they charged me a whopping $53 total for both cams. Unreal deal. So I’ll be running RL cams in the near future.
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Old December 11th, 2019, 05:02 PM   #16
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Stock ecu, good to know man. If it comes down to it, I discovered that you can rent the key immobilizer thing from halferland but if it ain’t broke why fix it lol.

Yeah the ol’ CEL, I think there’s one ecu plug that needs to be repinned or something, but I might be mixed up, maybe that’s only if you swap the j32 Ecu as well. I’ve tried to look into it, but there’s not a whole lot out there (it’s in one of these threads, but it’s a hard one to dig up). As far as I can tell, it’s for like cruise control and minor stuff like that, which I could live without.
Nice to know the stock ecu can (hopefully in my case as well) be used without issues though. I’ve heard lots it can be, but it puts my mind at ease to hear it again.

Anyways, this is a sick build man. Congrats, I’m glad it went smooth. I’ve always loved the 6-6 sedans. I wanted one when looking to buy my accord, but man, they’re a needle in a haystack lol. Literally couldn’t find one in 500 km of my area at the time. Had enough trouble finding a manual coupe with the v6. The sedan though, I just find it takes it to a whole new level of looking totally unthreatening but being able to haul solid ass. Enjoy it!

Edit: Man that is an absolute steal on the cams, weh!!! What wreckers do you hit up? I’ve yet to find a wrecked RL near me, been checking daily.
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Old December 13th, 2019, 01:54 PM   #17
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Stock ecu, good to know man. If it comes down to it, I discovered that you can rent the key immobilizer thing from halferland but if it ain’t broke why fix it lol.

Yeah the ol’ CEL, I think there’s one ecu plug that needs to be repinned or something, but I might be mixed up, maybe that’s only if you swap the j32 Ecu as well. I’ve tried to look into it, but there’s not a whole lot out there (it’s in one of these threads, but it’s a hard one to dig up). As far as I can tell, it’s for like cruise control and minor stuff like that, which I could live without.
Nice to know the stock ecu can (hopefully in my case as well) be used without issues though. I’ve heard lots it can be, but it puts my mind at ease to hear it again.

Anyways, this is a sick build man. Congrats, I’m glad it went smooth. I’ve always loved the 6-6 sedans. I wanted one when looking to buy my accord, but man, they’re a needle in a haystack lol. Literally couldn’t find one in 500 km of my area at the time. Had enough trouble finding a manual coupe with the v6. The sedan though, I just find it takes it to a whole new level of looking totally unthreatening but being able to haul solid ass. Enjoy it!

Edit: Man that is an absolute steal on the cams, weh!!! What wreckers do you hit up? I’ve yet to find a wrecked RL near me, been checking daily.
Thanks! I do enjoy this build. Found the RL at an LQK pick n pull in Eastern NC. I was actually just walking the junkyard checking out cars when I stumbled across it randomly. It wasn’t listed online and I wasn’t looking for it specifically. Sometimes the stars align!

Also, this thing is a total sleeper. I will be trying to contain its speed to a track from now on, because I nearly got arrested yesterday. I blitzed an unmarked cop going 130mph. He caught me about 3 miles later when I hit traffic. I didn’t even know he was following me. When he dragged me out of the car, he looked at my car, looked at his car, looked back at my car, shook his head and he was like ‘dude, how fast were you even going?? I tried to catch you and... I just couldn’t do it! I only got you because you hit traffic.’ He kept shaking his head. It was funny, in hindsight, although I was peeing my pants at the time. He let me off with a warning!
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Old December 18th, 2019, 02:38 AM   #18
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Haha **** eh, I’ve been there man. It’s a good thing these cars are as inconspicuous as they are, otherwise we’d get in a lot more trouble aha. Plus it’s priceless to see the look on the faces of people who had no idea an accord could move that fast. That look of disbelief never gets old once you show them what it’s actually capable of.
I bet this thing will put some owners of “sports” cars/coupes to shame. No disrespect towards other makes/models, but they always seem to treat us as a joke, which I always thought was even better if they ended up having to stare our ugly ass tail lights and “boat like” rear end (I find the coupe rear boat like, especially without a rear wing, however the sedan rear isn’t exactly an eye catcher either). Ahaha. Can’t wait to hear updates about this thing. I bet she’s got an appetite for front tires, and now she can eat two at a time. Lol
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Old February 24th, 2020, 06:08 AM   #19
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A bit more build progress lately. I never put a new clutch in with the j32 swap and sure enough the stock clutch is slippy and the pressure plate is no good. I constantly have to pump the pedal to restore normal feeling.

I’ve been looking into lightweight flywheels and aftermarket clutches. It seems like guys had a lot of trouble with the different aftermarket setups that have come out in the past, but there are a couple of decent options that have surfaced in the last couple years. Specifically, SPEC full face clutches and Aasco billet aluminum flywheels. The issue is that the SPEC stage 3 full face clutch is $800 and the Aasco flywheel is $550. That’s way beyond my budget. But, I just found a screaming deal on a very slightly used spec stage 3 full face clutch and Aasco flywheel. Came out of a wrecked civic j swap with less than 1000 miles on the setup. I just bought it last night. So that should be getting installed in the next month or so.
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Old February 27th, 2020, 07:57 PM   #20
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If you have to pump the pedal, sounds like a leak some where in the clutch hydraulics. I'd bet the slave is wet behind the boot or the rod coming out of the master.

I'm curious what flywheel options you found.
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Old February 28th, 2020, 10:43 PM   #21
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That was my thought too, although the stock pp and tob isn’t great in these cars. Personally I’d check for leaks around the master and slave and the lines before I dropped the money on a clutch. I’d also delete the delay valve in the slave cyl/replace the slave cylinder with a new one with a deleted delay valve while I’m in there.

Honestly, that in itself was one of the best things I did for my car. I bought my 03 6-6 with about 200,000 km on it, several owners, original clutch. Pedal felt spongy, owner suspected it would need a clutch which was reflected in the price when I bought it. The clutch feeling was almost nonexistent and the clutch almost seemed like it took awhile to engage/disengage at higher rpm. After replacing the slave cylinder (must have been a tiny leak somewhere as well I suppose, it seemed like air was getting in but no visible fluid) I changed the slave cylinder and removed the check/delay valve I’d heard so much about. But anyways, I removed the check valve in the new slave, bled it out, and it’s been biting as strong as an oem like clutch can ever since with almost 300 thousand k on the original clutch. And I beat the piss outta my car quite often so that’s sayin somethin.

I strongly believe that this delay valve actually causes slippage on the clutch due to slower engagement and disengagement, even though it’s there to “protect”.

Honestly, the stock clutches can handle a solid amount of na whp and wtq. Unless your plan is to go FI in the future, or large shots of nitrous, an oem clutch and flywheel is your best bet, especially if on a budget. Aftermarket clutches and especially flywheels are quite expensive for these cars. If it were me, and I was staying NA (Or <300whp I suppose) for the time being and didn’t currently have plans for FI in the future, here’s how I’d do it.

- cheapest flywheel I can find: probably luk (dmf062/dmf063, cl/tl they all work, cl-s has crank sensor but will work fine)

- oem luk clutch kit (disc, pp, tob) or possibly upgrade to a stage 1/1.5 disc and pressure plate. You can find stage one kits I’m pretty sure that will work with the stock dual mass flywheel, I’d have to look at the options again but they’re out there. Just be sure to read reviews and make sure it’s not just a rebranded oem kit, cause you’ll end up payin more for a stock clutch, people are d!cks man I’ve seen it haha.

- new slave cylinder, delete check valve for a more responsive and consistent pedal feel with faster and sharper shifts.

You may get decent gains from a lightened flywheel (Free up some hp), but it’s just hard to justify on a budget (I’m the same). You’re probably looking at minimum 500 dollars for a lightened flywheel for these cars, and then you’ll need a clutch kit and pp to work with this which is also pricey. My best bet would be stick with the dual masser for now, even though it’s big and heavy and clunky, but upgrade the pressure plate and disc to increase the clamp load and handle the wear and tear. Personally, I love the no delay valve yet oem feel (or I’m just used to it).

Also my apologies if you’ve already done this, I know a few guys who have squeezed a few more thousand kilos out of their accords by deleting the valve. Seems to give it a last wind of bite before she fully strands you and burns out haha. In my case it’s still going strong for almost another 100 thou, although she’s startin to feel spongy again. Gotta love CAA.
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Old February 29th, 2020, 05:48 PM   #22
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I already put in a new clutch slave cylinder with the check valve deleted. I will check the master cylinder though, which I have not done. Good point.

Reason I haven’t checked is that my last clutch was still grabbing mostly fine, and all I did when I swapped engine and tranny was unbolt the slave and pull it to the side. I didn’t open up the clutch hydraulics. The new tranny’s clutch slips a lot compared to my old one, and it’s got a bunch of miles on it, and it just sat around for 2 years prior to me installing it. Those pressure plate springs go out from age not use.

Anyway the Aasco aluminum flywheel and SPEC stage 3 full face clutch I bought was slightly used. I paid more or less what a brand new OEM LUK clutch and flywheel costs.
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