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Old July 14th, 2005, 05:47 AM   #1
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Which rotors for better heat elimination?

Ever since I pulled my car off the lot, the disc's have always jumped. Went for an oil change last week and they told me they were spotted blue due to abuse and were not cover by warrenty.

Instead of fighting them and getting new ones, that will probably just do the same freaken thing, i'll get better ones.


Can anyone recommend some rotors that will not warp under heat, or that will elimiate the heat better? I don't really care if I have more stopping power, I just want rotors that are solid enough to take a little punishment every once in a while without having to change them everytime.
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Old July 14th, 2005, 08:04 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by distinctjay
Ever since I pulled my car off the lot, the disc's have always jumped. Went for an oil change last week and they told me they were spotted blue due to abuse and were not cover by warrenty.

Instead of fighting them and getting new ones, that will probably just do the same freaken thing, i'll get better ones.


Can anyone recommend some rotors that will not warp under heat, or that will elimiate the heat better? I don't really care if I have more stopping power, I just want rotors that are solid enough to take a little punishment every once in a while without having to change them everytime.
www.tirerack.com powerslots and hawk performance pads, brake (no pun intended) them in correctly, i love them way more stopping power and no steering wheel vibration, $516.00 shipped just my 2 cents
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Old July 14th, 2005, 08:20 AM   #3
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Slotted rotors prong to warping more then blank rotors.

Want to have good brakes, get big brake kit. All other set up are just fiddling around of same thing.

Last edited by HONDA_99; July 15th, 2005 at 06:45 AM..
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Old July 14th, 2005, 08:41 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HONDA_99
Slotted rotors prong to wrapping more then blank rotors.

Want to have good brakes, get big brake kit. All other set up are just fiddling around of same thing.

Not quite sure what that is saying above. Do you mean "prone to warping"? And if so, why is it that people recommend those rotors over the stock setup?
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Old July 14th, 2005, 10:07 AM   #5
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Brembo cross drilled rotors work well in heat. Alot of people on this site have those.
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Old July 14th, 2005, 10:59 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dymondawg
Not quite sure what that is saying above. Do you mean "prone to warping"? And if so, why is it that people recommend those rotors over the stock setup?
because they look cool (different then most others).
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Old July 14th, 2005, 03:10 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by HONDA_99
because they look cool (different then most others).
I don't care about the looks.

Tirerack shows a few different models of powerslot rotors.

What do you mean by break them in right? If I buy a new set of rotors I don't want them to warp again, its so annoying stopping when the rotors are warp.
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Old July 14th, 2005, 03:24 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dymondawg
Not quite sure what that is saying above. Do you mean "prone to warping"? And if so, why is it that people recommend those rotors over the stock setup?
because they brake better, the slots in the rotors give trapped gasses between the pad and rotor a place to escape giving better rotor to pad contact. im not sure if the slots in the rotors provide any cooling advatages though
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Old July 14th, 2005, 04:07 PM   #9
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Man, after I come back from a mediumly hard drive, if I pour water on my brakes, it EXPLODES into steam and hissing. Highly stupid. I need better rotors.
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Old July 15th, 2005, 06:54 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by streetxdreamer
because they brake better, the slots in the rotors give trapped gasses between the pad and rotor a place to escape giving better rotor to pad contact. im not sure if the slots in the rotors provide any cooling advatages though
Remember guys, gases appear only when you going thru series of WOT's and hard braking after that, something like at autocross.
When you rolling down highway 70mph and then there is something happened that require you to stop immediately, there won't be any gases produced, you need to have two or three situations like that for gases to appear.

Slotted or cross drilled rotors that are same size as original rotors will not dissipate heat any better then stock, and why would they, they have same surface area.
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Old July 15th, 2005, 11:14 AM   #11
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I was in the same situation as you. Rotors warped. Great time to upgrade

I went with Stoptech slotted on all 4 corners. Have them for about a year now and so far no problems.
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Old July 15th, 2005, 01:37 PM   #12
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i have powerslots with hawk pads. i've had them for about 3 months now. NO PROBLEMS. the reason that these work better than OEM is because of the slotted veins allow the gases to disapate faster.


powerslot explination
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Old July 15th, 2005, 03:08 PM   #13
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Are powerslot cryo rotors work the extra 30$ ? Also which model of hawk pads are you guys using?
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Old July 15th, 2005, 03:49 PM   #14
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I just have Brembo blanks....if you want something that dissipates heat better than your OEM ones...just get ones that have MORE cooling fins....it's all about that....and maybe link like a hose thing that can lead cool air from the front of your car to the fron brakes ...haha...I dunno

but like one guy mentioned earlier...you sledom heat up your pads to the point where gases appear and you need THAT much heat dissipation from STREET driving...only auto-X-ing and something that requires you to literally go 70MPH brake HARD to 10MPH and again up to 70MPH and hard to 10MPH...do this about 6 times and your brakes will start SMOKING...

but you get my point...just call up Jessica from Performance Parts store....

4 Brembo blanks w/HAWK HPS pads (4) = $192

that was what I paid last summer when I got them....PM for more info on cheap brake stuff

oh yeah, for the popular POWERSLOTS along with some HAWK HPS pads....I can get them for roughly $340 from the same place...that was the price about a month ago because I called up Jessica b/c I am plannig on getting that set-up next time for my brakes...(been on this set of brakes for 18K now...and I work them hard)

and they also provide FREE shipping/handling, which is real nice

Last edited by Wht2kAccord; July 15th, 2005 at 03:53 PM..
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Old July 15th, 2005, 05:31 PM   #15
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does this place have a link?
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Old July 15th, 2005, 05:35 PM   #16
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i dont think you 6th geners understand how crappy the 7th gen OEM brakes are. there are A LOT of people here that have had warped rotors, time and time again. my rotors warped, i had them resurfaced, they warped again. it seems to be a big problem.

340 for all 4 rotors + pads is a smokin deal BTW... too bad i didn't know that way back when...
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Old July 15th, 2005, 08:16 PM   #17
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Most likely I don't know how bad brakes on 7gen, I never drove it, but I had power slot rotor before and they did absolutely nothing to improve every day driving and braking. On top of that power slot rotors warped in two month with proper break-in and they were not abused in anyway.
To make matter worst, power slot rotors that I installed on my 94 accord, as same time as on 99, warped also in two month. And again they were properly broken-in and were not abused.
I also tried different brake pads and they all didnít give much of advantage over stock brake pads, so started to experiment with different brake components that are available from Honda.

I learned that if I want more performance from brakes, I need to increase rotor size and increase clamping force on rotor.

Last edited by HONDA_99; July 15th, 2005 at 08:19 PM..
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Old August 7th, 2005, 09:33 AM   #18
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Why fool with stock size rotors?

Why would you fool around with the stock size rotors when you can bolt on the larger 11.8" rotors and calipers from the 99-03 TL/RL. It uses the 11.8" system that will bolt right on. Substitute the 2 pot calipers from the Legend and you have a great set of brakes.

To do the 2 pot system, get the entire caliper assemblies from the RL, then get just the caliper body for the Legend 2 pots. It all bolts together. Use the Legend pads (D503 pads number). I have this setup on my Coupe and it is way better than the stock brakes. Get some performance pads such as Cobalt Friction GT Sport, Axxis Ultimates or Hawk HP.

You may still warp these if you are really really hard on brakes, but it will take a lot longer.

BTW the Brembo setup on the new TL will also bolt up to your Accord.

I have a pic of my setup but can't figure out how to post it here...
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Old August 7th, 2005, 09:46 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BWH13
Why would you fool around with the stock size rotors when you can bolt on the larger 11.8" rotors and calipers from the 99-03 TL/RL. It uses the 11.8" system that will bolt right on. Substitute the 2 pot calipers from the Legend and you have a great set of brakes.

To do the 2 pot system, get the entire caliper assemblies from the RL, then get just the caliper body for the Legend 2 pots. It all bolts together. Use the Legend pads (D503 pads number). I have this setup on my Coupe and it is way better than the stock brakes. Get some performance pads such as Cobalt Friction GT Sport, Axxis Ultimates or Hawk HP.

You may still warp these if you are really really hard on brakes, but it will take a lot longer.

BTW the Brembo setup on the new TL will also bolt up to your Accord.

I have a pic of my setup but can't figure out how to post it here...



the reason why rotors warp, is due to UNEVEN cooling of the rotor. if the rotor cools down on one are vs the other its going to contract, and the other area wont and as a result the rotor warps. brakes that cool even faster are more prone to warping. ppl dumping water on brakes are asking for warping.

to prevent warping rarely keep the caliper clamped, or in the same area of the rotor for long. this means when you come to a stop try to roll a little ever 10 secs or so to allow the entire rotor to cool down, versus the area under the caliper to stay hot.

correct braking in really doesnt do anything to prevent warping, its only supposed to remove glaze from the rotors and to the larger extent the pads.

the only way to prevent warping is complete even temperature changes over the rotor.
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Old August 7th, 2005, 10:51 AM   #20
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Actuall it's not uneven cooling, it's the lack of cooling . The rotor is a heat sink that is supposed to dissipate the heat enough to preven the pads from becoming ineffective at the higher temperatures. As pad materials have gotten better over the years the rotors should have gotten more efficient at moving the heat to the air, but they haven't. The air gap on the 11" and even the 11.8" rotors is very small, which doesn't allow as much air to move through the rotor. This is why they warp. The best way to prevent warping is to allow the brakes to cool down for 10 -15 minutes before you park the car. By stopping the car before the rotors cool, the pads now form a large hot spot, which can lead to excessive pads material transfer to the rotor, and to warping.

The aftermarket rotors may have an improved internal vane design to move more air through the rotor, this is why they don't warp as often.
Quote:
Originally Posted by OwAce


the reason why rotors warp, is due to UNEVEN cooling of the rotor. if the rotor cools down on one are vs the other its going to contract, and the other area wont and as a result the rotor warps. brakes that cool even faster are more prone to warping. ppl dumping water on brakes are asking for warping.

to prevent warping rarely keep the caliper clamped, or in the same area of the rotor for long. this means when you come to a stop try to roll a little ever 10 secs or so to allow the entire rotor to cool down, versus the area under the caliper to stay hot.

correct braking in really doesnt do anything to prevent warping, its only supposed to remove glaze from the rotors and to the larger extent the pads.

the only way to prevent warping is complete even temperature changes over the rotor.
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Old August 7th, 2005, 11:05 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BWH13

BTW the Brembo setup on the new TL will also bolt up to your Accord.

I have a pic of my setup but can't figure out how to post it here...
i want to see pictures of TL 6sp brakes on your car.
every member has space on V6P site to download pictures and share them with other memebers.

and, could you tell more details about swap?
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Old August 7th, 2005, 11:48 AM   #22
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You guys are just not understanding whats going on.

First of all - slotted and drilled rotors are pure marketing garbage - end of discussion. I worked at a rotor manufacturer and when we ran cooling tests the drilled rotors were HOTTER than the smooth blanks. The drilled rotors also had LONGER STOPPING DISTANCES and wore the brake pads out FIVE TIMES FASTER than smooth rotors.

These are FACTS that we obtained from independant lab tests. Furthermore, even light track use caused the drilled rotors to crack very readily. SO spend your dough on that junk if you want - just don't try to pretend you actually got something for your money.

If you want more proof go to a real race track instead of the Dunkin Donuts to get your information. NOBODY runs drilled or slotted rotors unless they have too because there car came w/ them (Porsche's) or the BBK had them. Slotted rotors give slightly higher brake torque but only UNDER EXTREME CONDITIONS that you will NEVER duplicate on your Honda.

Your rotors are almost certainly not warping. The garbage ceramic OEM brake pads are junk and you are getting uneven material transfer on your rotors. Thsi most frequently occurs because you did not bed your pads in well or you don't care for your brakes properly. Stoplight to stop light racing gets your pads good and hot and then you sit at the light with your foot on the brake and your stereo turned up. The pad imprints and viola - pulsing pedal that feels like a 'warped' rotor. Perhaps uneven cooling of a cheapo import rotor may cause warping but thats because it's a cheapo rotor more than anything. We did not add vanes btw...we usually made less of them - maybe the rotor ended up the same mass but fewer thicker vanes certanly leads to poorer cooling properties. Look at an NSX rotor - lots of thin vanes.

You guys are such guppies some times

If you want better brake performance you have to actually spend some time thinking about your driving style and what makes the most sense. Your car has reasonable brakes for it's performance level STOCK. If you work them though it will show it's true inexpensive mass production roots.

For a typical hard driven street car I'd say GET some good pads (Hawk HPS/Carbotech Bobcats to name 2 - and notice I did not say EBC - there were ZERO people running EBC at Pocono yesterday btw....hmmmmm..

"...but they are Green Stuff" (sickening)

Clean your rotors up if they have deposits - this can often be done w/ Garnett paper - MAYBE a light turn and only should need replacing if they have been grossly overheated or are really old. They are wear items btw....

Flush your brake fluid and make sure it's bled well.

Grease the caliper slide pins and clean all mating surfaces well - inspect EVERYTHING for wear or damamge.

Learn how to brake in brakes and how to treat them. Your brakes absorb upwards of 1000 horsepower on a hard stop from 100 MPH and I don't see any rotor radiater down there.

If you still need more brake torque because you race/run R compounds or have 28" wheels then get a BBK ($$$$$$$$$$$$) or do the RL upgrade referred to above. Almost an inch bigger dia. rotor - that is thicker - with a 2 piston caliper (still a floater but...) will add a good amount of brake capacity without costing too much coin.

No I did not stay at the Holiday Inn last night - I'm an engineer and I live studying brakes both in the lab and in the field.

Free of charge this time - if anyone scans the post and sees something questionable it's an erroro of haste - I don't feel like re-reading what I just spewed
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Old August 7th, 2005, 12:45 PM   #23
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you make some good points douche bag.
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Old August 7th, 2005, 01:00 PM   #24
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lol
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Old August 7th, 2005, 01:30 PM   #25
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Just steal some Carbon Fiber reinforced Ceramic brakes off an exotic car

^ Can't wait for that to get into cheap mass production.

A lot of good points are being made here, I was going to say add some brake ducts of your own for the extra cooling.

Another thing to slightly consider are the deep dish wheels which I read are a little more aerodynaic and probably because of that don't get as much cooling as another alloy wheel w/o the deep dish.

I felt a small diference when I painted my calipers using ceramic paint not sure if that helped with heat dissipation more then the layer of paint hindered it could be a coincidence.

Check out the brake specs for the 6-speed coupe
11.8 / 10.2 (solid)

Sedan has
11.1/10.2 (solid)

Lets compare that to the new 3 series
13.0/13.2 (all vented)

edit: I can't believe the dealers actually expect people to believe that resurfacing their warped rotors that was due to heat will help. Like making the modular iron discs thinner will improve heat dissipation and prevent future warping

Last edited by Accord_V6_400m; August 7th, 2005 at 01:33 PM..
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Old August 7th, 2005, 09:12 PM   #26
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IIRC the 6 sp uses the same caliper as the non-Brembo TL - and the larger rotor

Sounds like a good cheap upgrade for all the 11 in front rotor cars

It should bolt on to most 98+ Accords - someone may verify this pretty easy.

The 03 Accords w/ the 11 inch brakes had a pad TSB and a new compound was then used. Again - someone help w/ the details on teh date/cars that the TSB covers and then go beat up your dealer for new pads/rotors. (don't let them turn them - and oh yeah they will try)

After you get the new rotors/pads go out and get some Hawks and put them on right away - the newer pads are still ceramic based pos pads
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Old August 7th, 2005, 09:13 PM   #27
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Quote:
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you make some good points douche bag.
Well you read the whole damn thing.......who's the db now :wink:
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Old August 7th, 2005, 09:34 PM   #28
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So would the Brembo package(the optional one from the dealer) for the TL fit the Honda Accord?
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Old August 7th, 2005, 09:36 PM   #29
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so brake boy are the racing brake rotors any good then? or are they a piece of junk and i shouldnt bother installing them?
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Old August 7th, 2005, 09:36 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brakeboy
IIRC the 6 sp uses the same caliper as the non-Brembo TL - and the larger rotor
The 6-speed uses the same rotors as the 11.8" rotorsa that are found on the A/T Acura TL. The M/T Tl has 12.2" rotors up front. Just thought I would update the info a little bit.


Last edited by Accord_V6_400m; August 7th, 2005 at 09:50 PM..
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