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Old February 22nd, 2013, 11:49 AM   #1
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0w-20/30 Oil Mixer

As some of you know, the thinner the oil you use the more power you can make and the faster your car will rev. Using a thinner oil usually comes with the cost of less protection. Select oils such as Redline, Motul, Mobil 1, Pennzoil Ultra, ect... allow a higher strength 20 grade oil. So how about a high strength 0w-20/30 that flows 48% better than Mobil 1 5w-30 and 41% faster than Mobil 1 5w-20

Accord V6 has a 4.5qt sump. Spec'd for conventional 5w-20. This blend is for cars that see daily abuse. This blend is not for autocross or road course usage (too thin for that)
1qt Mobil 1 0w-40 <--- Factory fill in Porsche, Aston, Mercedes, GT-R
3.5qt Toyota Genuine 0w-20 <--- 3rd Highest VI of any 20 grade oil.
OPTIONAL: 2oz of Redline Break-In additive <--- adds more Zinc/Phosphorus anti-wear to weak API SN "energy conserving" oils

KV100 9.4cST <--- VERY light 30 grade according to SAE specs
KV40 43cST <--- Viscosity at 104F
KV0 258cST <--- Viscosity at 32F
HTHSV 2.95cP <--- VERY LIGHT 30 grade oil (HTHS is a more accurate viscosity number in term of what actually happens in the engine. Directly correlates to oil pressure)
VI 209 <--- VERY high, the higher the VI the more the oil resists thickening when cool and thinning when hot.
Volatility estimate: 10.9-12.9% <--- In general, there is a positive correlation between volatility and viscosity index. Low volatility, low viscosity index OR high volatility, high viscosity index. With modern oils, it is a trade off. There are a few oils the have low volatility and high viscosity index. These oils are the best on the market: Redline, Pennzoil Ultra, Amsoil Signature, Motul, Royal Purple HPS, Castrol 0w-30, Mobil 1 0w-40 (to name a few). These are able to achieve the low Volatility/high VI through using super strong base stocks instead of polymer thickeners.
THIS blend has a medium VI/Volatility ratio showing a quality base-stock. It is not super high like Ultra or Amsoil, but has a higher ratio than most other "Walmart" synthetics. Plus the 0w benefits are awesome. Cost per oil change $30-43.

I would say this oil is perfect for a 5,000 miles OCI when abused regularly. Its a light 30/thick 20, that is very shear stable with the addition of the Mobil 1 0w-40. It resists thickening and thinning like no other oil of its quality. Both products are made by Exxon Mobil so their is no "side effects" with mixing.

First i would like to disband a common myth. 0w-30, 5w-30, and 10w-30, are all the SAME viscosity at operating temperature.

For simplicity, im gonna use 30 grade oils as my example.

Viscosity Index: A rating on how much an oil with thicken when cold, and thin out when overheated. The higher the better. 0w have a higher VI than 5w or 10w, so it remains thinner when cold.

NOACK%: The volatility of an oil. The lower this number the better.

10w oils start out as a 10 grade and use either high tech base stocks or viscosity index improvers (VII) to obtain a 30 grade at operation temp. Same with 5w starting out as a 5 grade. And 0w starting out with less than a 5 grade. With conventional oils, the base stock has to be pumped with VII to get a 5w to a 30 grade, and a 10w to a 30 grade. These VII polymers are activated with heat. So when the oil is cold, it has the properties of a 5w or 10w. When the oil is heated and the polymers are activated, the oil has properties of a 30 grade.

With synthetics, a high tech base stock can be used to achieve this same effect without the use of polymers. So basically, a 10w30 synthetic uses virtually no polymers making it very shear stable. 5w may use a few polymers, and 0w may use a medium amount of polymer. Not all synthetics are created equal, so certain brands may use more polymer than others.

Their is a positive correlation between NOACK% and Viscosity Index (VI). A oil with a high VI and a high NOACK is chaulked full of polymer, good for DD but not for abuse. An oil with a low VI and a low NOACK indicates an oil with minimal polymer, good for abuse, but not for DD. THEN there are special oils, that have a high VI and a low NOACK. These are your Pennzoil Ultra, Redline, Amsoil Signature, Mobil 1 0w-40, Castrol 0w-30, BMW 5w-30 and a handful of others. The low NOACK indicated minimal polymer, so one can assume that the high VI is achieved through superior base stocks.

Oils full over VII polymer are more prone to shear and breakdown. Hence why the S2000 was specced for 10w-30 conventional, and not 5w-30. But, as i mentioned before, synthetics do not use as much polymer to achieve the VI. Also, even in oils like Eneos Sustina (highest VI oil on the planet) which are FULL of polymer are shear resistant due to the quality of the polymer. This is the same case with the Mobil 1 0w-40 im using.

Ok now that you have a background understanding. Toyota 0w-20 has a HIGH VI of 221. When compared to Mobil 1 5w-20 (VI 160), the Toyota is almost 3x thinner at 0*F. Much quicker oil flow and ease of cranking. Toyota 0w-20 has alot of polymer, however it is pretty shear resistant.

Mobil 1 0w-40 is factory fill in Porsche, Mercedes, Aston, and GT-R, it is also approved for new Corvettes. Even the new SRT cars and Viper us Pennzoil Ultra 0w-40. The 0w-40 is a VERY shear resistant oil (low NOACK) dispite its high VI. The VI is achieved through superior base stocks, not polymer. It has a VI of 185. Since it is BMW LL-01 approved, it is considered a long drain oil. Mobil 1 0w-40 is NOT an "energy conserving" oil, so it is not subject to the ZDDP anti-wear limitations that other EC oils are.

For my usage (autocross), the Toyota 0w-20 is too thin, and the Mobil 1 0w-40 is too thick. So i mix them. In the correct ratio, I get a 0w-30 oil that is the same operating temp viscosity as Mobil 1 5w-30 (VI 172). Except, my oil is 1.6x thinner when 0*F, and will not be subject to thinning out as much due to overheating. AND it has more ZDDP than Mobil 1 5w-30. My blend has a VI of 198.

I am a firm believe in using an oil based on the expected usage of the vehicle. My expected usage dictates that i use a medium thick 30 grade oil.

I would also like to add that both Mobil 1 0w-40 and Toyota 0w-20 are made by ExxonMobil
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Last edited by Randomhero; March 28th, 2013 at 12:20 PM..
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Old February 22nd, 2013, 01:28 PM   #2
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Did some more research:

1qt Redline 0w-40
4qt Mazda 0w-20
KV100 9.49 <--- light 30 grade
KV40 43
KV100 245
VI 215
HTHS 2.91 <---just barely a 30 grade

Likely around 700ppm moly with around 800-850ppm ZDDP.

Thoughts?

Only downside is, this mix costs about $9.44/qt.
Where the TGMO and M1 costs about $7/qt, but i would need to add the Break-In oil additive so about $8.qt.

Mobil 1 10w-30 comparison
KV100 10.1 <--- light 30 grade, 6% thicker than Mazda blend
KV40 63 <--- 32% thicker than mazda blend
KV0 618 <--- 60% thicker than mazda blend
HTHS 3.0 <--- 3% thicker than mazda blend
VI 146 <--- 31% less than mazda blend

Moly antiwear count: 90% less than mazda blend
ZDDP antiwear count: 33% less than mazda blend
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Last edited by Randomhero; February 22nd, 2013 at 02:07 PM..
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Old February 22nd, 2013, 07:08 PM   #3
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Since you are running a thinner grade Oil for the increased performance, how quick are you doing your OCI's?
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Old February 22nd, 2013, 07:48 PM   #4
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I changed my oil in November, and i dont plan on changing it again until the day before my first autox event this year regardless of the mileage. If i were to track the mileage, probably 7500 miles is completely safe on a name-brand synthetic.

During summer racing and such i do 5k/4months.

Running a thinner grade oil compared to what?
This mixed oil is actually a VERY thin 0w-30 or VERY thick 0w-20, its borderline. Either way, the oil thickness doesnt affect the OCI.
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Last edited by Randomhero; February 22nd, 2013 at 07:58 PM..
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Old February 22nd, 2013, 08:09 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randomhero View Post
I changed my oil in November, and i dont plan on changing it again until the day before my first autox event this year regardless of the mileage. If i were to track the mileage, probably 7500 miles is completely safe on a name-brand synthetic.

During summer racing and such i do 5k/4months.

Running a thinner grade oil compared to what?
This mixed oil is actually a VERY thin 0w-30 or VERY thick 0w-20, its borderline. Either way, the oil thickness doesnt affect the OCI.
Not referring to oil thickness in particular, but more of the extended load of racing? I would of thought auto cross puts alot more strain on engine parts etc. Again this is just my speculation, I know nothing about pro racing.
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Old February 22nd, 2013, 08:41 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ll Diabolic ll View Post
Not referring to oil thickness in particular, but more of the extended load of racing? I would of thought auto cross puts alot more strain on engine parts etc. Again this is just my speculation, I know nothing about pro racing.
Autocross temporarily raises the oil temps up to about 240*F causing the oil to thin out. However since the VI of the oil is so high, the oil doesnt thin out as much under high heat as a low VI oil would. The oil temp isnt jacked for an extended amount of time like road course racing, so shear is not really an issue. High oil temps for prolonged periods causes the oil to permanently shear (losing viscosity).

If i was racing on a road course, i would put whatever conventional 10w-40 was on sale at walmart. Put it in before the event, and take it out after. Seeing temps of 260*F+ would thin the oil out to a normal 20 grade, which provides optimal power and oil pressure.
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Old February 22nd, 2013, 09:37 PM   #7
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This is an interesting experiment! I'm excited to see the UOA results.
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Old February 24th, 2013, 05:19 AM   #8
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this is an interesting experiment! I'm excited to see the uoa results.
+1
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Old March 25th, 2013, 10:41 PM   #9
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Sending in my oil analysis of Pennzoil Ultra 5w-20 with 3500 miles on it tomorrow. Gonna fill with 2qt Toyota 0w-20 + 2.5qt Mobil 1 0w-40 and a Purolator PureONE filter.

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Old March 26th, 2013, 02:03 AM   #10
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Can you make a cold start video/sound clip of the engine?
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Old March 26th, 2013, 01:33 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gwiffer View Post
Can you make a cold start video/sound clip of the engine?
Sure, curious as to why?

I make one tomorrow morning.
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Old March 26th, 2013, 07:37 PM   #12
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I just wanted to compare with mine. I'm interested in trying your new mix.
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Old March 28th, 2013, 12:34 PM   #13
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Bump, updated some stuff on the OP
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Old March 30th, 2013, 12:27 PM   #14
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Hard use entails a weekly row through the gears and some leadfoot merges onto the highway.

Changed the oil early to put in something thicker for autocross season. Gonna get a UOA of that as well.

REALLY happy about the low silicon with my AEM dryflow CAI.

Thoughts?
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Old March 30th, 2013, 03:24 PM   #15
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IHC (azine) uses RL 5w-30; how does it compare to your custom brew?

Redline 5w-30

API Service Class SN/SM/SL/SG/CF
Viscosity Grade SAE 5W30
Vis @ 100C, cSt 10.6
Vis @ 40C, cSt 62
Viscosity Index 162
CCS Viscosity, Poise, @*C [email protected]
Pour Point, C -45
Pour Point, F -49
Flash Point, C 252
Flash Point, F 486
NOACK Evaporation Loss,1hr @ 482F (250C), % 6
HTHS Vis, cP @150C, ASTM D4741 3.8
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Old March 30th, 2013, 04:27 PM   #16
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How much did they charge you for the analysis?? I may do this.
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Old March 30th, 2013, 07:38 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gwiffer View Post
IHC (azine) uses RL 5w-30; how does it compare to your custom brew?

Redline 5w-30

API Service Class SN/SM/SL/SG/CF
Viscosity Grade SAE 5W30
Vis @ 100C, cSt 10.6
Vis @ 40C, cSt 62
Viscosity Index 162
CCS Viscosity, Poise, @*C [email protected]
Pour Point, C -45
Pour Point, F -49
Flash Point, C 252
Flash Point, F 486
NOACK Evaporation Loss,1hr @ 482F (250C), % 6
HTHS Vis, cP @150C, ASTM D4741 3.8
Redline 5w-30 is basically a lighter 5w-40 oil. (yes i realize its labeled 5w-30). My oil is a a light-thick 0w-30. It is too thick for most of us. Unless your on a roadcourse, i would not use it. If you want to use Redline, try the 0w-30 or 5w-20. (The 5w-20 is actually thicker than the 0w-30 haha)

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How much did they charge you for the analysis?? I may do this.
$25 for what i got. Extra $10 for Total Base Number (TBN). TBN shows how much active additive is left.
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